Oxidization and decarburization are two ever-present problems in heat treating knives, but this may be a cost effective means of atmosphere control. firecreekforge.com / firecreekforge #heattreatingknives #knifemaking #knifesteelhack
Grain looks really good! Sandblasting and staging the paint like you said would probably help hold it on there. On some header paints you have to cure them with lower temperatures and let the rest before they are ready for prime time. Really great idea and a lot cheaper than most antiscale compounds.
O, how many time has my wife come into the house with the strong pungent smell of Chevy Orange paint that’s baking in the kitchens oven on a set of 202 high flow, double hump heads for a Chevy 350!! Lol Great video Eli!!!💪🏼
I have some 2,000* anti-seize spray I use for punch lube. Been wanting to try it out for anti scale. Never thought of using paint for some reason. Although the best option for this would be stainless foil. But I’ve always been a fan of trying new things, which seems your the same way.
Like the video. Very interesting. So I use a high temp paint on my forge. Even next to the opening it has never blistered or chipped. It's header part for motors. Ots called VHT flame proof. And it says ceramic coating. Pick it up at any auto parts store
Forgot to mention, I’ve worn a beard myself for nearly 40 years, mainly to protect my fair skin from the harsh Aussie sun, but mate my growth sure looks insignificant compared to your valiant effort!!! Top job, I’m feeling a little jealous 😜
I typically use Nuclayer 2000 as a anti scale, it’s a natural water based clay and is super easy to apply and can be dried in seconds with a heat gun. It’s also what I use in conjunction with a thicker clay for hamons.
I've tried a couple of things over the years- ATP-641 and Condursal Z1100 anti-scale surface treatments and they do work ok at the lower temps (700-900C) if you follow the instructions. They still blast off in the oil filling it with particulates of whatever industrial goop they're made up of which I'm not a fan of. Mostly I was looking at them because I use a lot of stainless and was looking to save a bit on the foil sheet, so they don't tend to work at the very high temps (1000-1100C) and manage to burn off some carbon in randomly splotchy areas kind of like how we saw with the paint. (in either case- its a heck of a time trying to get that surface gunk off the knife later on) Might be worth trying to leave the paint dry overnight on a test piece and see how you do
Your wife didn’t give you a razor for Christmas??? 🤣 Love the beard mate, she’s a ripper!! Also like the video 👍. Hope you and your family had a great Christmas and the new year proves to be a better deal than last year. Regards from Down Under.
It is never a failure if you learn something. I would say this would be worth trying again. Maybe let the paint cure more and see if that makes a difference
The tip bending is always a better outcome then puncturing the bottom of the quench tank. But very interesting test, something I noticed is that those "soft" spots are mostly on the finish ground part and not as much on the tang. Maybe the paint didnt have enough bite due to a higher grit sanding?
Will be cool to see what comes of it all. I swear,when the video popped up I said to myself, " Wtf is Borat doing in a blacksmith/knife making channel! Lmao!
Idea: Could you use the paint for the hardening process in a similar fashion to satanite? Maybe a thicker application could create a differential hardening / hamon scenario.
Always try to learn from personal experience, someone else's mistakes are preferable to learn from. Slowing down and not trying to turn the oil into a whipped topping.
Thanks for watching! Agitation is important to defeat the vapor jacket, and introduce a continual supply of cooler oil to the surface of the steel... Although in thin cross sections like this it's probably less relevant.
Depending on the steel and the thickness there’s no problem with it. I do it all the time. Not in just tap water but a brine heated to 150*. But definitely would never water quench 52100 lol.
@@erikcourtney1834 Right, but I was thinking that with 8 mils of paint on it, it would slow the cooling enough, or could anyway. The blade was already an experiment.
Yep, I've been busy making knives.. youtube took a downturn this last fall for reasons I don't understand and can't control, so I've spent more time working on the part of my business that I do have control over, and that is making and selling product. Thanks for watching!
Why don’t you just get an Argon tank and regulator and run Argon into your Kiln? Many kiln manufacturers actually have options for that although they are not standard but the Argon actually displaces the oxygen and other atmospheric gases with the heavier but inert Argon gas working much the same way as it does for Tig Welding.
@@FireCreekForge I’m not so sure about what a kiln conversion kit from the manufacturer would cost but I had a friend who rigged up his own version for a few hundred dollars and that included buying a full 125 Argon tank and a regulator and the line to run into his kiln from a local welding gas supplier. Now the line he ran from the regulator to the kiln wasn’t a prefabricated kit, it was a handful of fittings and gas line. Each time he refills his Argon it’s like $45-$50 but that tank lasts quite a while because the argon doesn’t burn up like propane, you close the kiln and turn on the argon for a few minutes until it displaces the air inside and it’s good until you open the door again if you are doing something small like knives but if you are heat treating something big and thick like tooling where the kiln is running much longer then you might need to add argon some time midway through the heat treatment process
I reckon he’s invented some secret formula that he’s using to fertilise it and make it grow !!!😂🤣 The mans a genius, he’s just solved the problem of baldness!
