This was great. I had no idea how heat treating was done. The only stuff I've done many year ago was heating and quenching. Glad to see it's gotten a little more sophisticated. All the work you do on each knife is impressive and make the prices seem more than reasonable.
Ever am I happy that you are in Canada B.C. , you are legitimate Craftsman by showing your way of proper knife production , i really wish i had known about you few years back since now i bought 10 custom knives from Abe Elias , the thing is i searched few years ago about Canadian knife makers on the internet and found only two in Ontario . Man i wish you Manufacturers in Canada advertise yourselves all over if possible because i would rather buy from Canadian producers and keep jobs here and encourage skills and Canadian productions and craftsmanship , All the best of health and all good things to you and your loved ones .
Great video guys! I used to stretchform aerospace parts and used dry ice quite a bit and remember the sound it makes, too funny. Always enjoy your videos, and I'm LOVING that Skaha by the way! (As well as the Lynx and Osprey) I'm hoping to get a kitchen knife or 2 pretty soon.
We moved to a new shop about a year ago and we've been really busy updating processes and getting new equipment integrated. We will do a new shop tour video as soon as we have time but right now we have to focus on some more process tweaks!
thanks aot for the information...since i became interested in knives which appear to me a huge science,,i have some questions plz::::: how do i know if my knife was heated by vacume heating not by normal heating?:::::: how colud i know the blade type of my knife, is there an analysis?::::: i am thinking to buy a machin from china looks like a Tormek machine, and buy 400 grits diamoned stone +1000 grits Diamined stone, all from china to resharoen my new knives, becuse the factory sharpening was dull!! ....is what i am gonna do right?!? plllllllz help
The two skaha samples luvthemknives did, 57.6 and 57.9rc. While they are nice to sharpen and have low reduced austenite... They should be harder. At least for the pocket knives. The chief knives are fine at that hardness. Your magnacut should also be no less than 63rc. Its the only reason I haven't got a 2nd one in magnacut. Just not worth it. Also make both aluminum plates touch the blades at the same time. When you lay it down first they cool on one side too fast. This is well known. Im surprised your doing it this way.
This video is old and our processes have changed a lot since. We had reasons for running our S35VN the way we did. It wasn't as tough a steel as Magnacut is and most of our customers use their knives for real world stuff, where hardness is not the only concern. That being said, I recall there was some controversy around the HRC numbers that were obtained in some of those tests. As far as Magnacut HRC, we have our reasons for that too. Again it comes down to hardness vs toughness. Larrin Thomas has a ton of great information out there about his steel. We use his info and our own testing and customer feedback to inform our HT protocols. What one maker and their customers think of as the perfect HT doesn't always match what a different maker and their customers want/need.
@@northarmknives first things first its a pocket knife and not a 4" knife. 2nd thing is independent tests showed strong toughness at 63rc. Had you done tests like other knife makers you would have seen this.
We do sell at the shop as well. Our hours are on google! Feel free to come by anytime. Just make sure to check the website or call/email to check that what you want is in stock.
I just getting into knife making and i don't know anything thing. I will be working with 1095 knife blanks, what do you recommend i heat treat them at? And what temp should i temper them at? Any info would be awesome. God bless
Hi Tim! We don't have any experience working with 1095. I would do a google search or check bladeforums. Tons of great info available out there for sure. Good Luck!
You forgot to mention that cryo is necessary after each tempering cycle. You're starting a new Ms and Mf as you know man. PEOPLE NEED TO UNDERSTAND THIS! aha.
@@veraxknives0331 Our HT protocols are industry standard. I've never heard of anyone doing a sub-zero cycles after each temper. If done properly, using our methods, additional sub-zero treatments would be of little to no value.
Not saying to change how you guys do shit but it's a scientific fact that any educated person in metal will know and ask you to do. Dry ice isn't very effective either it's just not cold enough for the PM stainless alloys that most stock removal knife makers use, even with 0s at STP.
@@northarmknivesits better to use Ln2. You have to temper after each cryo cycle... Most cryo only once before both tempers but it could be very good to cryo after the first temper as well. And 3 tempers can also be advantageous. Depending on your protocol to reduce RA. Sure your saying industry standard, but making knives better means going above and beyond industry standards. At least for enthusiasts. Else your no better than average.
Hi everybody! In last time I saw lot of heat treating videos. I've got a question. Everybody says. I soak them for ,,10/15/20,, minutes. But I don't know what it means. 1. It means bringing the oven up to 1800°F then opening the door, putting the blade with room temperature and closing the door, letting the blade there 20 minutes, open and quench. or .... 2. bringing the oven up to 1800°F then opening the door, putting the blade with room temperature and closing the door, waiting for blade becoming 1800°F too and from this point soaking in oven 20 minutes. If it is this case, then I have a question how fast should the blade reach the temperatrure 1800°F or whatever temperature good for quenching depending of the type of the steel. Greetings from Europe. Peter. P.S.: I have made a knife really by the hand only. Here is the ink: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sdNYdLY8NBA.html You can watch if you want. :)
Hi Peter, Most heat treating kilns, ours included, drop quite a lot in temperature when cold parts are put inside. By the time the oven hits temperature again (back up to 1800), the knife would be equalized (or nearly so) with the rest of the oven temperature. Thin parts, like knives, equalize quickly; if we were heat treating thicker parts, equalizing time would be more of a concern. We would then hold it at the soak temperature for the specified time, then quench. I hope that helps!
@@northarmknives Thank you very much for your reply. It seems to me that your answer has the level of a professional. I wish you a lot of success. Peter.
