Atempting to answer the winter time Celica questions ... Why do i have cold air coming out of the driver side air vent ? Why does my 7th gen. Celica take forever to warm up?
Heater cores are known to clog up on these cars, hence it's always best to change fluid/flush through once a year, including flushing the core direct via the pipes going through the firewall using a hose at low pressure and back flush also. The cores can be a pain to change if seriously blocked/damaged (dashboard out), though I heard some people manage to get to it via the glovebox compartment. Not sure how true that is. Good video.
I DID notice that my 2000 GT took an ungodly long time to open the thermostat and trigger the cooling fans upon startup after the recent crash rebuild when I was bleeding the air out of the system. It was prob'ly 30F in the shop as I'd opened the door for ventilation. Historically, though, that 2000 GT has been pretty good on cold Central Wisconsin days/nights. (-20F) My strategy is to throw on sweatpants and shirt with some warm footwear, go out and start it, set the heater to hot, and leave the fan on low. Back in the house, "dress for success", with appropriate outerwear, back outside, hop in, and drive away. The engine gets MAYBE 5 min of warmup. That's enough to warm and stir the oil a bit, and, since the heater core feeds off the cylinder head, start to "take the edge off" in the cabin. A mile of 35 MPH speed limit down to the main highway, and all is roasty-toasty...I'm reaching for the temp control and un-zipping the parka! Now, I lived 24 years with a '94 Civic VX...if it was below 30F, you could let that thing idle all damned day and the temp needle wouldn't twitch! Even when it DID get warmed up after beatin' down the highway 65 MPH...the temp would start falling if you sat at idle for more than a couple minutes! I went so far as to mention it at several dealer service intervals. They warranteed a couple thermostats early on...but to no avail. I have a feeling that the heater core was nearly the size of the main radiator! The thing would get 50 MPG on summer tires, perhaps that efficiency played a part, too.
My 2000 gts didn’t have a cabin air filter. Came with the slot but it was empty from the factory as far as I can tell. I’m the 3rd owner and I know the previous owner. It’s possible the original owner threw it away without replacing it but I highly doubt it. Anyhoo your videos are awesome and extremely informative, thanks boss
I bought a 2000 GTS new in 2000 never had a problem like that. In fact the car is still in the family with 350K on it still with the original radiator and heater core.
I let mine sit outside in 22 degree weather for an hour and still only got 3 or 4 clicks on the temp gauge. I was ready to replace my thermostat until I watched this video. I might just have to drive it until it gets to operating temp and try to burp it that way. While squeezing the lower rad hose.
Right hand drives are the forward built ones 🙌🏻 My heater doesn’t work at all, flushed it all loads etc. Can the matrix be taken out under the hood instead of via the dash?
Only access to heater matrix is from the inside of car. Seems strange that you get no heat at all even after Flushing the core. I would think that if any fluid flows through you would get a little bit of heat.
Was idling in the driveway a few days ago while wondering if anyone else sometimes sits around until temps reach lift operation levels, heh. Even here in Florida; I've timed it around 15+ min til the fans kick in too when doing purge/refills. Semi-related: Seen a vacuum coolant refill tool mentioned on a mr2 forum, picked one up but haven't had a chance to try it yet (example pic: imgur.com/a/umX1KeT ) will eventually see how it/if it works. Think the pro model is branded as air lift or something similar to that.
Thanks for commenting. I usually just let mine idle a few minutes to get the oil circulating good and warmed up a little bit. Then drive it easy till it comes up to full temperature..... Then apply lift = 🙂🙂. I've never used a vacuum refill tool. If you do get one let us know how it works.
Good timing on this one, thanks very helpful, Im finishing my engine swap, I broke the nipple off the top of the radiator for the line that prevents airlock, I may try to repair with brass fitting, but for now, to test my swap, I have just plugged the hole so it doesn't leak, I'm in Michigan and it's 20° do I need to be concerned about this for now? I'm still working on the hoses and vac lines going to intake and manifold etc. Do you have a video on cold air intake connections? Thanks for your help
Plugging that radiator connection may work temporarily. For a start up test... . but I wouldn't run it too long or drive it at all like that. Air will be trapped in the radiator without that port going back to the coolant reservoir.
@@GSskiracer 👍 also while it is running and air gets trapped into the radiator it will probably push the coolant level up higher and higher in the coolant bottle. Might be near impossible to bleed system. So you may not be able to run it more than a minute or two. Just my thoughts.
The car that the heater core/ box was removed from was a total disassembly for parts for my "Celica Street Rail" build. The heater core is removed from inside the car, towards the passenger side. A lot of dash disassembly is needed, most of the lower/ center dash. It is not fun.
there is ONLY 1 place in europe where the wheel is on the wrong side and thats the goofy UK. I have a European Celica and its the normal left hand drive like all others.
Hi I have a 2000 gts. I have bleed the system. And flushed the core. But only getting hot water in the inlet side of the core But not the outlet. Is there a heater control valve
No heater control valve. If water is flowing thru the heater core it will be hotter on the inlet than the outlet. At engine idle speed the water doesn't move very fast thru the heater core.
Wait.... so coolant cycles through that entire reservoir tank? I've got a Celi and was thinking about draining a cup of coolant out of the bottom of the radiator to test to see if I needed to do a flush/fill. I thought coolant only pulled from the reservoir if it got low in the system. But if it cycles through there I can just pull from that tank, which would make my life a lot easier.
How hard is it to get the heater core out? I'm talking like how to get the part that is attached to the firewall. SEEMS like the whole dash is gonna have to come out? I have warm air near the passenger, and cold air on the driver's side. Also a bubbling noise when revving slightly coming from passenger dash. I HAVE burped it many times. I've used radiator cleaner. I flushed the core. Well I think I did. the hoses I flushed where on the firewall behind the steering wheel near the battery. I cant take another winter. Any help?
I have the same problem on my 2zz, in right side blow very hot air, but on driver side is almost cold. Any idea if its possible to be clogged and if there is any option to unclog or I will need an new heater core?
It could be. But I dont think it would help warm up time very much .. And if you covered too much you could overheat. So I would say it's not worth the risk. Big trucks used to do it up north. I dont know if they still do (I live in the south now)🌞
If I am just changing the thermostat for my 2000 celica, is there a particular hose I can close off before I change the thermostat to make my bleeding easier?
