Scotch-Brite Light Duty Hand Pad 6448 is your best friend for a flame sensor cleaning. Doesn't even look like they busted a knock out for any fresh air intake. Thing must be starving for air.
Through your videos you taught me when and how to clean flame sensor. I had to do that on my Trane propane furnace yesterday. What a pain in the ass to get to but I got it done! Thanks, from Indiana, for your videos!! Even though you would probably prefer I didn't and call a professional.....
All safety circuits go through jack pin plug to control board. If there is any issue like a pressure switch or flame sensor or limit etc the board should mandatory throw an LED diagnostic code. So.....if it was calling for heating and has the heart beat saying normal operation call for heat but did not work and threw no code means a failed control board everytime. Easy diagnostic.
My flame sensor has been in my Goodman furnace for 24 years without cleaning because I don’t have a 100 dollar bill, now I know you can use a 50 I’m that much closer to cleaning it. Just need to go down 2 more bills . Thank you
Glad the customer had you replace the unit. I hope you made adjustments on the exit of the exhaust off the ground. Hackers did a great job hacking that install and service calls. Now they had an educational company to rely on for future services.
I had an issue with my Trane package(gas pack) unit back in January. Super cold snap with icy roads had just started too. So getting help was at least initially out of the question. First thing I did was pull the flame sensor and clean it. Did not help. My unit was lighting the burners but instead of shutting off after only a few seconds I would get a flame for 10 -15 seconds. The unit would cycle this way for several minutes before resetting and then nothing. No error codes displayed. I pulled the flame sensor multiple times but no luck. Eventually what I determined, through trial and error, was it wasn't the flame sensor(flame rectification) itself but the flame sensor mount bracket. Enough corrosion between the unit frame and flame sensor mount bracket that it must not have had a good enough bond. I cleaned off the flame sensor mount bracket as well as the mounting area on the unit frame and that seemed to have fixed the issue. I eventually ordered a Trane replacement flame sensor that came with a nice shiny copper mount bracket and installed that one. But the issue stopped even before I installed the replacement flame sensor. Not sure why the mount bracket itself needs a ground bond since it is isolated from the flame sensor itself since it is mounted to the ceramic insulator.
Love your videos. That furnace did not have enough combustion air. When installing as a one pipe system (i never do) you still need to bust out another two inch opening and install a 90 degree elbow for combustion air. thus why it ran better with the door off. Keep up with the videos.
Suffocated flame, I ran into this situation before where the customer complained of the same problem, but when I opened the the combustion door and ran the test fire, it worked just fine. Turns out the system was running a concentric kit and the home owner owner just had the roof done. The roofers cut off the flu cap ant it was sucking exhaust into the intake.
That exhaust looks a little funky at that first elbow Theodore. You may by correct about the pressure switch and it may clear after a reset. I’m thinking the condensate is collecting at that odd joint ( looks like it’s taped together). You’re right about ICP units being easy to work on and they are a real work horse too if installed properly. That one is not. Exhaust venting is incorrect, gas piping is suspect as well, they used a thread saver as a coupling. They also didn’t allow for enough combustion air. Those units require that there be one of the two” knock outs to be used to supply combustion air. They only knocked out the one for the exhaust. The opening for the gas line may not be adequate to provide enough air for combustion . That old control board was used in older ICP units. Knock out the other 2” knock out and your problem is solved for combustion air. You need to repair that crappy exhaust venting too.👍🇨🇦
I bought a house that came with one of those " made in hell" Hiel furnace's. What a pain in my behind. After a year of constant calls to the repairman I had to switch. Never again would I ever have one of those units in my home again.
Many issues with this one Ted..replacing was the best outcome for this hack job..on those Rheem designs those traps are a window to the exchanger condition as well as running it with the combination door on..if that ignition goes off, something with the venting or draining is a wrong..let me guess the customer went with the cheapest option..lol..man they get what they pay for..
The install was crap but the furnace is fine. I dont see why it had to be replaced. The exaust is too long for the diameter of the pipe and termination needs to be fixed. Needs fresh air intake. And condensate line needs repair. Thats it. Other than that that furnace is working just fine.
Looks like they didn't even bother to knock one of the 3 factory option holes out. Maybe they were counting on the hole they chopped for the trap to be enough.
oh dear, they have far more issues in that place, because I spied "vanguard" brand polybutylene tubing. hopefully you guys don't even breathe on it changing the furnace, because she'll probably start leaking at every fitting and possibly in the middle of nowhere just because it can(and does). a replumb is in their future, if they well water, it will hold up longer than city water, but it's on borrowed time.
Bad control board when the board diagnostic says everything is hunkey dorey and obviously it's not. That's a bad board every time. Many other problems I'm sure.