Definitely a defective timing wrench. I used one to time mine and it was dead on. The tab should be about a 1/4 inch wide as someone else commented earlier. Good luck and happy driving!
Throw that wrench away!!! Get a new one if you'd like. First, remove number one spark plug and verify its TDC. Replace it back in. 2. Make sure your spark advance under your steering wheel is full retard and then pull it down two clicks. Three, remove the distributor cover and distributor, loosen the cam lock and turn it so the notch is toward the number one post on the distributor cap the then turn clockwise very slightly to make the points bearly break contact. Tighten the cam nut, replace the distributor and its cover and the connectors to the spark plugs. Push the spark advance up to full retard and cold start your engine. Extra step: if the cam lock nut has a hole in the top, drop a little oil in it. If it doesn't have a hole remove it and drop in a little oil. This helps to lubricate t top distributor bushing which helps to keep it from wearing out and allow the shaft to wobble. If you dont have one a Les Andrew's book would be a good investment. (The Red one) Good luck sir. Happy motoring.
First, I agree with several commenters that the wrench doesn’t look correct; that tab should wide enough to just fit in the slot on the rotor. Second - it sounds like you are probably 180 degrees off of TDC. Remove #1 spark and use a flashlight to ensure #1 piston is up at the top of the block when the timing pin is also in the indentation of the timing gear.
Thanks for all the great comments!! I was not 180 degrees off. If you look at the wrench it does not have the notch piece of metal that fits into the timing nut. Nu-rex sent me a new wrench which is perfect. Thank you very much Steve
Beside the Wrench: You're sure, that it is an original Model A? No leaks at all? 🤔 I remember the word "If it doesn't leak, it's not a Ford". Would make me curious 😉 Lucky you! Only one of my 3 Model A don't leak. It's a 1930 Roadster like yours 😊
The timing dimple can be a pain to hit perfectly. Really don't need it perfect. The other thing I was always told was to have the timing lever on the column 1 notch down from full up. I think this is done to try to minimize the chances of kickback when hand cranking. Good luck with your Model a.
1. The wrench is bad. 2. Modern points sometimes aren't positioned correctly and timing will be off when using the wrench. I now time by listening to the snap of the ignition.
First youd ont need that wrench. Second when trying to find dimple on the geat, look at your rotor as you crank your engine, when it gets close to #1 cyl, slow down cause your dimple is near. If you pass your dimple, fear not, no need to go around again or put it in 3rd gear and rock it, just grab your crank pully ang turn it the other way. Its that simple.
Holy cow, that is not the correct wrench, at least not for a Model A. Pitch it as far as you can. Order a real one from Nu-Rex for a Model A. However, it looks like you found the instructions for the “old-fashioned way”, which are actually more precise. I carry a Nu-Rex wrench for those emergency quick and dirty situations, but I use the old method otherwise.
Looking at the wrench it is clear someone has ground down the tab that fits into the cam snugly. I have found the wrench gets you to approximately the correct timing. The Nurex timing scale will allow you to set the timing with a timing light.
Just found your video on timing your MODEL A, I know how frustrating it can be sometimes, I have a 31 TUDOR I'm working on now trying to get running, you best bet is to get Les Andrew's mechanics handbook, he has 3 editions if I'm correct, I have the red and blue ones, which I think are # 1 and 2 volumes, they will tell you exactly how to time your MODEL A, and troubleshoot any other problems, one more thing, find Jack Baums video- HOW TO TIME THE MODEL A, it the best videos I've seen, he tells you exactly 💯 the correct way to do it, hope this helps you, good luck with your MODEL A, SUBSCRIBED.
Thanks a million. Yes, I have the blue book. Model A's are easy once you get the hang of it. Of course, there is a great community of guys like yourself that are ready to help. Thanks for subscribing!! Best of luck on your Tudor project 👍 Steve
I’ve used that wrench and it worked fine on my 31.id have to look at mine but yours looks defective. But congratulations getting past the frustration .
Why not just call Bob Gay at NuRex and I'm sure he would be most happy to replace that if it is defective. He is a very nice person. I have that timing wrench and it got my 30 Ford running perfect the first time I used it. Since then I replaced my defective old generator with a NuRex alternator and it's a 150% improvement. Even with the headlights on it's still charging even at a slow idle speed. I don't know, but I do think you should have called him before posting this video. He would have helped you.
He did send me a new wrench that works perfectly. When I bought the wrench I had no idea how it looked or how it worked. It came in defective, it's a simple piece and should have been caught at production. I made the video because it didn't work. All is well now and they sent me a new wrench, no problem. Thank you Nuwrench.
Note - I did exactly the same thing you did with “normal” NuRex wrench until one of the guys in my Model A club explained how you can be off by 180 degrees.
Very hard to be off by 180. If your on TDS and the rotor is facing the number one cylinder, your good. I had never owned a Nurex wrench before so I had no idea what it looked like. It was double stamped and it had no notch. You can see it in the video. Please subscribe. Thanks for watching, Steve
Once you replace your defective Nu-Rex timing tool with a correct one, the instructions on the wrench will give you perfect timing every time. I've used it for years.