The video is very good, excellent technical level. it is wrong to lubricate the o-ring with this oil. the o'ring rubber will degrade, try something else, silicone grease.....it's the same problem with the brake disc caliper boot
It had been a long time since I had seen a video with a high quality of information without any kind of meanness, this is the essence for which the internet was created. Very good video man and thank you very much for sharing!
Thank you man, just finish doing this job today, took the car for a drive and sounds like brand new. Such a nightmare has been, three mechanics since the beginning of January, and no error codes, no one knew what it was... did this and voila!! Thank you so much!! Btw, my issue was high revving after changing the PCV valve.
Excellent ! Couldn't have had a better tutorial. I have an imported JDM 2003 Toyota Corolla Fielder wagon with a 2ZZ-GE engine. There are others with the 1ZZ-FE and 1NZ-FE engines also. (It is less work to remove my throttle body, than it is to remove yours) Our country has bumper to bumper traffic, so life is very hard on the throttle butterfly and its shaft in continuous stop-and-go traffic. My car is doing 235,000kms ! The idle RPM slowly climbed up this year to about 1300RPM. In some situations I used to remove my foot from the accelerator as the car went on its own, tipping on the brakes to slow down.......a dangerous situation indeed ! Removing the throttle body, and holding it up to bright light revealed spaces between the butterfly and the throat of the throttle body, especially on the cable-quadrant side. Backing down the idle screw did not help........The spaces were there ! Yes, there was wear. Wear means more air, means higher RPM. I was fortunate to find a used throttle-body in my country. (We have an active Japanese Used-parts industry) There was no light filtering through the throat when held up. I did "hammer-and-chisel" the three IACV screws, then got new Philip ones for re-assembly. The two electromagnetic actuator "petal" screws were slackened with a pair of giant pliers. New Philips ones for re-assembly. I used the same procedure you did for cleaning and re-assembly. (I am 68 and knew Singer machine oil as a boy) Upon re-installing and securing the throttle-body and starting the car, I still got a 1400RPM idle. The electromagnetic actuator screws were slackened, and it was turned anti-clockwise. The idle dropped. Yes, the screw holes on the electromagnetic actuator are elongated to give about 10 degrees of turn. Clockwise to speed up, anti-clockwise to slow down. This augments the function of the idle-screw. I have my engine idling now at 800RPM. No more issues. I found out everything by trial and error over an extended period. Great video for those of us who did not know. The Toyota part number for the IACV gasket is 22215-7A680 Thank You. Trinidad & Tobago. West Indies.
thank you for the extensive detail of your experience, im sure people will find the information in your comment very useful! Happy to know it worked for you!
Very informative. Followed all instructions for my toyota wish, 1zz engine and found the valve stuck. Cleaned it. The problem was solved permanently just like that.idle is now perfect as if the engine has just been released from the manufacturer.thumbs up sir.
Very very useful and helpful. Surprisingly I haven't been able to find such a tutorial on 1zz engines. Everyone keeps talking about Throttle Body Cleaning but none has talked about the ICAV. I'm going to try this on my celica 2000 with 1zz. I had cleaned the MAF Sensor, Air Filter, and Throttle Body from visible side only (which might've been a mistake as the car now is smoking a lot constantly). The idle seems stuck forever at 2.5k RPM and no matter how low I adjust the Idle Screw, it doesn't come down.
@@TheRepairLair Thanks man. Words are not enough to appreciate RU-vidrs such as you, who always go extra mile to spread the wee bit of knowledge available with them. Keep up the fantastic work 🙏
@@zzracer Well, kind of. But overall, No. I fully cleaned the throttle body and the ICAV along with replacing the rubber deal for ICAV. It fixed ONE of the issues where RPM were stuck at 2k and won't come down. But the other issue remains the same (although reduced by a lot) where RPM randomly drop down to less than 800-600, giving the feel like it's going to stall. No one is able to figure out what the issue is so i've stopped bothering for a while ... so i can sleep better at night haha 😁😁
Fantastic, You have Saved Me My Invaluable time and hundreds of pounds. Pointed out the problem to my mechanic - showed this video to him, he removed, cleaned and fixed it back. RPM dropped from 2000 to 700 now. Happy Driver :) ThayaX - Harrow, London, UK
A truly excellent how to video packed with good, accurate information. I have a 2006 Matrix (1ZZ-FE) with 223,000 miles in which the idle comes down fine after startup, but is starting to occasionally drop to 500rpm. Might be time to service IACV. Also, using an xtool scan tool, I plotted RPM and IAC duty cycle, which responded perfectly to pedal snap (duty cycle increased momentarily). I think it is starting to get stuck when rotary valve is closer to closed position.
Awesome video! I see others have made comments that I may have made but no need to duplicate that. Instead, I'll just thank you for such a high quality effort. OUTSTANDING, and thank you!
Very nicely done, but I suggest replacing all of those Phillips head screws with hex bolts. You're less likely to have problems removing them next time. I also apply a bit of anti-seize compound to the threads.
Excellent video , had the same problem in my Corolla, same engine . Only thing I did different to remove the 2 anti tamper screws ( for the valve step motor ) was to cut a slot in the head and use a flat head screwdriver to remove them . I cheaped out with the gasket too , just coated the old one with some sticky brown aviation gasket sealant. Anyway yeah the little car runs normally again , no more annoying 1800rpm idle
Great explanation of valve IAC maintenance, please just explain how coolant temperature controls the opening of IAC ? Bimetallic spring working not explained
Hi, and happy you found it useful! The coolant doesnt control IACV at all - the lines are there to warm the IACV up in case of frost in the valve in negative temperatures
I just did this to mine, thanks for the video however on my 1ZZFE (Corolla) the 3x M5 screws for IACV to throttle body were 20mm not 10mm. Complete PITA to remove but got them eventually.
Just fill the valve up with oven cleaner. It strips built up carbon, varnish and dirt. Oil on the o rings is bad as it dissolves the orings leading to vacuum leaks, use fluorinated grease or synthetic wheel bearing grease.
My 98 Toyota RAV4 idles fine until I push in the clutch then the RPM's go sky high even in neutral until I shut it off. This happens some days and not others as intermittent or random, could a new IAC valve solve this?
Just fkn did this and found this video after! (dam algorythm heard me I guess), and had the same trouble with the 5 pin screws. didn't take it apart!, cleaned with carb fluid best I could, and now it idles perfect. it was hesitant when hot, and too low idle when cold. Your level of detail is way better than mine. my excuse is that I wanted to do as much as I could to test it again and see if this would solve it.
I'm very happy to hear that you got it sorted! You might find that it seizes up again though, if you just cleaned with carb cleaner and didn't re-lubricate the bearings - just something to keep in mind for the future.
Hello, thanks for your video, I have a 2008 corolla and the engine is similar to the one in the video, I am struggling to remove only the IAC valve without removing the throttle body, I tried many torx tools and discovered that it is a pentalobe or a torx plus TS25. I hope it works fine when I receive it. I don't have a mini lathe like that and the tool is cheaper. Greetings.
I changed the throttle body with a used one, and now my Corolla is idling at 1200 rpm regardless of coolant temperature, sometimes it revs up to 1400 rpm when engine reached 90 degress. Can the throttle body i changed too have IAC problems? The screws on the IAC are very rusty and very hard to find new screws at hardware store in Norway...
excellent video. thanks for sharing! My Rav4 has quite a low idle and I will do a IACV / throttle body clean and hope it helps. One thing I notice is that my coolant reservoir stays cold when my motor is warm. Is this the same on your Rav4?
I haven't paid attention to the coolant reservoir temps on the 1zz-fe, but for some perspective, at ~15 degrees C, my 1cd-ftv diesel rav4 keeps cold from idle pretty much indefinitely (thermostat almost never opens, coolant temp shows ~85 degrees via obd scantool). As long as the temp gauge never goes over "operational temperature" (meaning about the middle of the temp gauge) when you're driving then there is no reason to worry :)
Hello, I did a test, I removed the rubber from the air filter, so I had access to the throttle body, I started up and gradually covered the air intake that enters the IAC valve, as the covers stretch to stop until when completely covered, the engine stops. But I can't find the fault, which is that it starts and as it warms up the rpm goes up to almost 2000 rpm. Then when driving on the street or highway, if you leave it in neutral, the rpm goes up to 2000 and goes down to 1000 until in a moment if I stop the car they go to 2000. A query, I made contact, I measured the female card of the IAC with tester and 12 volts to the positive (black cable) arrive at the connector, nothing to the ground cable and the other signal 0.14 volts and the signal 0.14 volts..., I also tell you that if I disconnect the connector from the IAC, the car runs and does the same problem. I am very concerned that it may be the ECU that may be sending an inappropriate voltage. thanks for your help
No i have not, but out of what i did try i had the most success with Seafoam. Take a look at ProjectFarms video on seafoam: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-agAWXnT4-EQ.html
@@TheRepairLair Yes, I saw that as well. Thanks for the reply. Red Line products are no joke (no I do not work for them), so it would be really cool if you included those products in your tests. 👍
Hello friend, good video. It would be good before fixing the fault to place a scanner to see what errors it gave us and thus check all the faults. I see that the revolutions were a little high. The normal thing would be between 850 and 950 revolutions per minute.....and also at the end of the video I see that this engine has a problem in the chain...thank for video
Hi! Thanks for the comment. To start - i have skipped showing the steps for scanning as most people wouldn't have the necessary tools. But i did, indeed, scan the ECU beforehand with toyota techstream, and it didn't report any error codes. In fact, i own a 1cd-ftv diesel rav4, and lots of mechanical engine issues (for example, stuck egr, sticking turbo vanes or sticking turbo vacuum regulating valves) are not reported, so my conclusion is that scantools are not fully reliable for diagnosing these older (
@@TheRepairLair ok the noise seemed like it had a problem with the chain tensioner or as if it didn't have the right oil...regards, thanks for the video
Hello, thanks for this video, really clear and helpful. I have a question, I want to clean my IACV on my 2005 Celica 1zz-fe, but in the repair manual, they explained that we should drain engine coolant before removing the throttle body. Is it the same for the rav4? but is there any possibilities of getting air in the coolant system? I would like to have your point of vue of that. Thanks in advance!
Hi! I don't believe its necessary to drain the coolant, but if a lot of it drains out when you remove the throttle body, you might want to bleed the system and top up the coolant in case any air did get into it. Here's a video explaining the details ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xeTgmdRkQtY.html
I don't have a definitive answer, but i assume it is to prevent icing and/or sticky bearings due to oil becoming less viscous in very cold climates if the air coming in through the air intake is below freezing
I have a 1zzfe 2001 corolla machanic said I have an oil leak from head gasket but it only has 80k miles. I think its the timing chain tension leaking not a head gasket because there is no signs of head gasket leak. Engine runs good. Any thoughts? I think its rare for head gasket to leak oil outside the engine no?
Excellent video! I think I can apply some of your handy tips to my 2010 v6 rav4. Its idle will vary after start up around 900-500 up and down. I have changed the sparkplugs, pvc is good, replaced vacuum lines, etc. the IACV is a good culprit to start next since I have a little over 151k miles. Have not replaced any coils yet. I presume this would be a good time to inspect any water hoses too?
@@user-vm1pn7cz6r I ended up not taking it apart. I found a couple extra hoses that needed to be replaced. I am using Amsoil oil. I have use P.I. fuel cleaner and since, it still does bounce a little, but not near as severe. I also made sure to clean the throttle plate and map sensor as well. I had changed the tranny fluid after I got it (twice,leaky gasket). But since it looked pretty hammered, I think the second drain, filter and fill has been immensely helpful. I average almost 24mpg with easy driving commuting to work. I presume someday I will have to replace or rebuild it, but it runs well enough now I don’t worry about it
On Saturday 16/7/2022 about 5pm a client called me to his abode. When I got there he told me that he observed when he was about to drive into his compound that oil was leaking in his car. Although, it took me some minutes to troubleshoot the problem because the oil spattered excessively to many accessories of the car like alternator, power steering pump, fan belt, TPS, AC compressor, etc. I searched for the leak and finally saw what was causing it. I noticed that it was because of the CKP oil seal at the pulley side/front of engine. It was late hence auto parts store closed that was why I didn't replace the seal that day but encouraged them not to drive the car until I replace the seal. On Monday 18/7/2022 I changed the seal and the leaking stopped and the idled fine but I only observed that few minutes to avoid catastrophic outcome to the engine because the engine oil level was low. After replacement of the seal the fan belt cutoff and I replaced it as well. They didn't drive the car until Tuesday when the went to the replace the oil. But before they moved they called that the whole car was vibrating. I was unable to reach out to them so I told them I will meet them on Wednesday 20/7/2022. I got there yesterday as promised and noticed a severe vibration at idle which wasn't there when I left on Monday. I scanned the car and retrieved some codes that I will upload. Among those codes, I was particularly focused on the P0016, P0113, P0123, and P2135 although I verified the ignition codes and saw that it fired very fine. As a result, I cleaned the CMP sensor of the 2 banks and installed them back but to no prevail, I still noticed a vibration. I pulled the CMP sensor again within 2 minutes of idling and noticed that it was dirty again. This time I had to pull VVTI solenoid valve of both banks alongside the CMP sensor and cleaned them. In addition, I used a very clean dry cloth and insert into the CMP sensor hole to properly clean the inside of the engine. In the process, I also noticed that the injection head where the TPS sensor is tightened was very dirty as when a carbon and oil are mixed together so I cleaned that too using a tooth brush. At last, when I put everything back to it's respective places the idle was very nice because the car didn't vibrate again! However, there is a problem that I want you to help me out with. It's a high rev in RPM to about 1.4 at idle. I Before I left there yesterday I scanned the car again and found only the P0123 and P2135. Please note that this two codes appeared only after cleaning the CMP sensor, VVT solenoid valve and the injection head. It didn't appear before the cleaning of those accessories. When I started the car it rev high from about 1.25 to 1.4 RPM and remains there. The RPM doesn't go up and down. When I accelerated the car it rev very fine. I also noticed that the TPS connector was slightly broken, it didn't fit in very well and didn't hear a snap sound when connected to the TPS module. But whenever I pulled the TPS connector completely out when the car was idling there was a great reduction in RPM as if the car wants to stall so I immediately connect it back slightly and noticed that the RPM goes down and remains at 1000 RPM. The car owner even noticed the reduction in RPM, stood up and moved to me and said that that's the way the car should idle. But if is still connected at that place and switch off the car it idles to 1.4 RPM and remains there until I repeat the unplugging of the TPS connector process. I tested the connector with my test light and noticed 2 ground out of the 6pins (one of the ground was very dim the other was bright) at the pin connector that illuminated the dim light when tester was at battery positive. I also noticed a dim light when I checked for current with my test light now hucked up to ground and ignition switch activated to ON position. Please help me, how do I permanently solve this car problem? The car is a 2006 Toyota Forerunner with a v6 engine
Wonderful clip. A 09 Corolla my son just acquired has a similar issue-idling at 1100rpm( to my prospective 1100rpm is an issue because all my vehicles' idle are 600 to 800). I have never owned Toyota myself so this is a question for you. 1100 rpm is acceptable idle speed for toyota especially Corolla? Thanks and again your tutorial is very informative.
100 bucks says you it didn't really need cleaning. IAC Valve Reset- Warm up vehicle, turn key off, then back on without starting, turn key off, then back on, then to crank(start vehicle), put on parking brake, put in Drive. Let run or drive for 7-8mins. Done. Standard procedure. If that don't work, change IACV.
...or clean it as per this video, because it's bound up with gunk. A reset will be the fix if you've got a software problem and the valve moves freely...and if it's just gunked and easily cleaned, why replace it?
You need to buy an inexpensive torx set of tools (bits). Maybe your butterfly stop screw is maladjusted because idles is still above 1k rpms, even warm.
These are 5 point torx which are not typically included in off-the-shelf bit sets. Regarding the RPM's, they only drop to ~800 when fully warmed up. Hope this info helps.
Rav 4 with a 1.8 litre engine is cursed as haha. In Australia they have 2 litre engine and they perform decently for what they are, i know its not a massive difference but the main thing is the engine in the Australian rav 4s being the 1az fe is actually desgined for cars of its size ie camry etc. The 1zz fe is corrola engine which essentially means its would theortically run the best in a lightweight car, honestly dont know why theres an engine difference in america and Australia but who knows, at least youd get slightly better fuel economy
1zz-fe is very unpopular with rav4s because they only come with fwd rav4s, and there are almost no rav4s with only fwd. Most of the rav4's in UK have either the 1az-fe (2L), or 1cd-ftv (2L diesel). USA has the 2az-fe which, if i remember correctly, is pretty much exactly the same as 1az-fe but with a longer block (2.4L). But they don't get the diesel (the one in the video isn't mine, mine's the diesel version, and i LOVE it)
My 98 Toyota RAV4 idles fine until I push in the clutch then the RPM's go sky high even in neutral until I shut it off. This happens some days and not others as intermittent or random, could it be the IAC valve?
i really cant comment about the 1nz-fe engine specifically as i have not encountered it. Also, im not sure there are rav4's with 1nz-fe from stock, maybe someone did an engine swap?
The hard part is documenting and organizing every removed part and then reversing that order in putting them back😬 Also, before I dive in with the assumption that this is my issue, can anyone confirm that a carboned IACV can cause engine stall even when I'm already on the road, every time I slightly slow to turn?
it could be the combination of both iacv and carboned up throttle plate - if the gaps of the plate at idle are fully covered, and iacv is also stuck closed, then there will be basically no air getting through
Good day. I already cleaned my IACV, throttle body and TPS. But still may RPM droppes until my engine dies. This will happen during cold start. But when my engine temperature goes to normal after 5 minutes,, my rpm remains at normal 800rpm.
I don't believe the engine would die when cold due to a bad IACV, but sadly i don't know what could be the cause for this as i haven't ever had such an issue myself. I would like to suggest you check that your butterfly valve is clean, and then inspect the idle stop screw as well as the arm that rests on the stop screw - i might be completely wrong here, but maybe it could be that the idle stop screw or the stop screw arm have worn down, and now the butterfly valve closes completely so the engine gets almost no airflow. Though i don't think this would explain how the engine runs when warm, but doesn't when cold. Worth taking a look though. Please let me know if you find the problem!
@@TheRepairLair Butterfly valve cleaned. I adjusted idle stop screw. When cold start rpm at 1000. But when warm, may rpm reads at 1500-1800. Near to 2000.
@@rommelrodrigo6146 It almost sounds to me as if the IACV is plugged in backwards, though i don't think it should be possible to plug the connector the wrong way around. Sorry to say but i don't have any other suggestions - the issue is likely elsewhere
Hi! Is it okay to clean the throttle with throttle cleaner in my RAV4 1zz-fe? I just saw that there's a huge hole for that IACV, I'm worried that the chemical would enter that vent and ruin my IACV. Thanks!
No! Do not clean the throttle valve without taking it out and spraying liquid on this car. If you just want to clean the throttle butterfly valve, you can spray throttle cleaner onto a rag and carefully wipe the valve area, but under no circumstances should you spray the cleaner directly into the valve, and have any leak down into the IACV.
The ECU adjusts the RPM's to go higher when you turn on the AC, its normal. The default RPM for 1az-fe, i believe, is about 700-800, but no problem for it to rev either a bit lower or a bit higher.
14:48 Did you really mean m1.6×25 I thought all m1.6 is m1.6x.35 And 25 wouldn't make any sense, wouldnt it be .25 anyway, (even though ive never heard of .25 either)
Could you tell me if you know if that “idle air control” valve is also the San as for a 2003 Toyota Corolla model? Before I take it apart that would really help to know 😅
I don't have a 2003 toyota corolla to check 🤣 If it's a 1.8L, it will probably be the same. Even if it's not the same, it's likely to be very similar so everything in this video will still apply, just the shape and location of it might be different d
@@TheRepairLair Thank you so much for getting back to me! 😬One last question you sprayed some carb cleaner and oil in the IAC motor but other videos I saw said to try to keep liquid or sprays away from the motor but with your video you sprayed it straight into the hole of the motor. I just want to double check that’s OK to do and it won’t damage the motor at all?
They could have been referring to avoid spraying anything into the IACV if cleaning the throttle valve without dismantling? I don't believe there's any issue spraying as shown in my video - the plastic part is fully sealed and no cleaner is able to get into the motor internals.
Hello, I watched all of it and want to try this out. My engine rpms during cold starts jump up and down, so down that the engine slows down, could this be the issue?
It's worth trying, although if it is jumping around wildly while warming up it might not be a mechanical issue with the iacv but an electrical issue with the ecu and iacv communication
@@TheRepairLair this is a video I took today, engine does what it always does at cold starts but this time it stalled. Note I didn’t press gas at all only pushed clutch in and turned on car. ru-vid.comzK7uW_gy-5I?feature=share
@@TheRepairLair after taking the video I cleaned the maf with maf cleaner and the problem was the same, turned off car, disconnected maf sensor and problem was the same, could it be the iac valve that’s stuck?
@@SBdunks3 If its the same with MAF sensor connected or disconnected, then i suspect the MAF sensor itself is bad - you might want to try getting a replacement MAF sensor first. Stuck IACV would not do this jumping up and down as shown in your video so i'd definitely look into the MAF sensor replacement first.
