I called them today, that shop said they built many wrx cvt trans already, they said for $5200 they can install a built automatic trans that will handle 700 horsepower maximum. I say that's pretty good for that price.
That’s the best sometimes, but when you’re ready the tuners over at pd tuning have found a way to pull out 100whp on the cvt safely pd-tuning.com dylanvbwrx for 20% off
Based on research, Torque converters are the ones to fail first, hence the slip. Previous gen Subaru CVTs with upgraded torque converter and transmission cooler are known to handle alot more power. Subaru CVT's are chain driven which are much more rigid compared to steel belt CVTs in other brands. Which is why this stresses out the Torque converters at high power levels. Do check out Level 10 transmissions for built autos and CVTs.
I have an update on my SPT transmission. My CVT after being on Map 5 on the CVT never broke but it DID slip the hell out of the torque converter and burned it up. It is the weak link of the car no doubt. It also ruined my JB4 somehow (no idea how) and now only runs properly when I have just the 2 essential wires connected to my car. I have fixed it and it runs good now but do not run over 300-320whp MAX.
I’m hoping that eventually Subaru puts a regular transmission and we could make lots of power. It really is the weak point of the car There’s a guy going around telling everyone he can make them high 3s safely lol
@@DylanVBWRX I know who you are talking about and I argued with him. He ended up blocking me despite giving him evidence from Subaru that these transmissions can't handle above 300 safely. Ahwell🤷♂️
You dialed mine in a few months ago (manual), love it still, i wouldn't mind a bit more power...lol, we dialed mine in to support the ETS intake, what else can me tinkered with?...lol
How much power will I get from down pipe, high flow intake filter, headers, ipipe, catback exhaust, tune? Would that push the horsepower over 300hp for cvt??
@@romankartsev220 don’t do all that yes it would just reach out to will at pd tuning use my code dylanvbwrx protune and you’re good can easily get to 300 without any mods
I own the cvt. Haven't done the JB4 yet. But I have my theories as to how to properly put down the power. My question is how this guy drove his. In automatic mode always? Or in manual mode, and getting on it when the car has "seated properly " and you know when the trans is in place, or has the locked up feeling to press the peddle with no slip. So... would love to know more for sure. I'm still not hesitant on getting me a JB4 and turning it up way past 300. 350-400 would be the been neez. But testing also Hope your well. I enjoy your input on the VB!
Use my link when you do get it and I’ll hook you up with free custom tuning! 300/300wtq is the sweet spot!!! We did 350wtq it lasted for a few months before toasting the trans
@@stanistheman12 I think that’s pushing it honestly you want to be careful with the cvt. If you want more power reach out to will at pd tuning use my code dylanvbwrx
The fusion hybrid doesn’t really have the tuning potential, but you could go with aesthetics. You could do coils/lowering springs. Pick up some nice wheels and tint while you’re not going to be fast you could be low and slow looking cool
300/300 for the jb4 a little harder to control low end but we’ve found on protuned at pd-tuning you make about mid 300s just not down low, so If the tune is built so you have more top end that has been safe. Use my code dylanvbwrx for 20% off
Pdtuning.com reach out to them mention me they will hook you up with a bundle deal accessport and protune bundle deal. Protune is safer more customized for your car
VAG 0AN CVT is happely handling about 305lb-ft tq in my friends 2006 B7 2.0tfsi, but its a very robust chain mechanism unlike this shitbox subaru. Another friend is pushing 420lb-ft in his 2.7TDI B8 CVT for a long time now no issues just regular oil change and lots of Manual shifts for the longevity of the variator
Hey man, this video was a while ago, but I had a couple questions. I was wondering if you think the new cobb stage 1 91 OTS map is safe and reliable long term for my 23 cvt? I am completely stock rn and have been using it for about a week. I am thinking about just doing a drop in grimspeed or cobb air filter but thats all. I was also wondering how exactly the stage 1 91 ECO OTS map works, and if its safe to flash between the stage 1 91 and the stage 1 eco maps if i plan on going on trips and want to get better mpg? I ask that because they just updated the cobb AP to have fast flashing. And last question lol, could you explain CVT lockup? I've seen that people say you need to wait for the cvt to "lock up" before doing a hard pull or stepping on it. I also see there is a reading for CVT lockup on the cobb AP and 2 is partial, 4 is full, and 0 is none? What exactly does that mean and what should I look out for when waiting for the cvt to "lock up"? Idk anything about this lol so if Im sayin gibberish lmk. That was a lot of questions and if you answer em all I really appreciate it! If you don't have the answers though its all good. You just seem pretty knowledgeable about this stuff and Ive been searching them up to no avail. Thanks!
Hey what’s up brother 91 Cobb map Is safe all their base maps are pushing it beyond that scope is what’s dangerous. Basically with the lock up it’s just making sure you’re fully stopped before putting it in drive and giving is a few seconds to engage before being rough on the transmission
Is it safe to add ets intake with cobb ots on a cvt? Ive been running the 93 stage 1 for a while now. Was just curious if I could add the intake and flash to the stage 1+ safely.
What’s the best way to hit about 290-300 hp in the most reliable way with the vb cvt Wrx? And will it worsen reliability at all, or will it be fine as long as I don’t push it too hard too often?
Hey Dylan, how can I reach out to you for more information. I want to know what mods you recommend. I appreciate your expertise and concern for the safety of our cars. I want more power, but I am not looking for big power. I am comfortable for 300HP.
Hey brother at pd tuning they have perfected the tune for the cvt now use my code dylanvbwrx for a discount and they will hook you up with a great deal on a safe tune
I just got me a wrx vb 6 speed and ive gotta to a 1000 mile and did my oil changes followed requirements. But my question here is why am i hearings a tapped nose when im engaging the clutch to take of and also when i shift it also happens in reverse aa well but the car drive normal any pointer we help out thanks
I have a 22 WRX cvt and wish it had more power. I dont want to street race, just need more acceleration from a roll. Can anyone recommend a tuner or mods?
@@DylanVBWRX wow that’s pretty impressive compared to the VA wrx cvt, from what I understand that one couldn’t really handle any HP/LBS increases. So if you stay at 300 or less it’s looking pretty safe for the torque converter/CVT?
@@masonthomas9671 from what I have seen and mind you we don’t have a ton of history because it’s a relatively new platform, but in the last two years, all of them that have been at or below 300 have not had issues
The VB chassis is a complete joke, GT being CVT only, Same glass TY75 6 speed manual transmission, disastrous looks, what a complete flop, The last of the WRX's and STi's died in the VA chassis in 2021, The VB's were a government regulated product de-tuned to a pitiful 271 HP using the FA24, 3HP more than the 268HP rating of the outgoing FA20 engine to meet EPA ratings which is why they killed the STI because it couldn't meet cafe standards.
300whp cvt holds well past that it doesn’t we’re easily pushing 400whp safely with the manual. I wouldn’t say a joke, but the sti trans can definitely hold it better
