Nice work! Very interesting to see how quick new capacitor can charge. Needle return back down very fast. I already built and create the numeric version of carlson's leak tester (as shown somewhere in few videos). Enough sensitive but only 27 volts. I'd like to do a tester like yours with a real rated voltage. It's on my list of future project. Thanks for sharing and again, good work!
Subbed. Got my clt 3g cap tester based on your review. I'm surprised it isn't more popular. It seems to work well. The AWA high voltage tester will have to wait. In the meantime I am using an insulation tester to test at higher voltage.
Beautiful build, you do fabulous work! Thanks for sharing, I’ve been eyeing up that AWA board for awhile. Like how easy your enclosure is to craft versus metal case.
Thanks! These junction boxes from Home Depot have proven surprisingly well suited so far. While they lack the 'professionalism' of a metal enclosure, they are very sturdy and easy enough to work with. And they are readily available, so there's that as well. 🙂
I would be interested as to how you got the box from Home Depot. Does the box have a stock number? Did you purchase the box in person? And what criteria do you use to determine that a capacitor is leaky. Do you do a comparison or look up specifications?
I purchased the box there in person, from the electrical dept. It's a Carlon 6 x 6 x 4 Gray PVC Junction Box and you can get it online if you like. The PVC is thick but workable, and I've used a few of them because I have easy access to them. :) Data sheets will tell you what it should be and how to measure it. For general guidelines, you can look at the charts here: www.tpub.com/celec/54.htm. These are from an older Sencore leakage tester I believe, but are a good starting point.
Great job on your tester and thanks for the video. I'm having a hell of a time finding the two gauges(digital and analogue. Did you get them from amazon or ali express? Thanks again
Thanks. I got both on Ebay. The 5 volt DC analog meter is an old Tripplet meter. You can fine newer ones from China as well that are actually pretty good. The digital one was also from Ebay - it's a 1000 volt DC digital from china. I believe you find these on Amazon and Ali Express as well.
Very nice build, Gary. My AWA build did not go so smoothly. Getting exceedingly high voltages even with pot zeroed out. Variac to Dim bulb current limiter to the HV Cap Leak Tester build (I'm like the guy who wears both suspenders and a belt - taking nothing for granted on this initial test of the circuit). With the Pot at rest, 20V AC applied from Variac reads at 30.5 VDC; 35VAC = 53VDC; 54VAC = 98VDC. At 54VAC with Pot at approx 25% of travel, VDC reached 194V. Backed everything down and off at this point as the extrapolation for full applied 120VAV would (could?) produce 1200VDC (doubling the design output) most likely burning up every component on the board. (Bad Hammond Transformer???) Thanks in advance for your thoughts. - Mario
Not really sure, but check that you didn't blow one of the transistors. I build the AWA HV power supply, and I've fried the power transistor twice already, making it impossible to regulate the output voltage. The tester looks like two of the HV supplies running together to reach 600V. You could also reach out to AWA with the question. As they *do not* provide a schematic, it makes troubleshooting a bit more difficult.
Gary, thanks for your response. This really is a bit of a puzzle. I have taken your advice and launched a query with AWA after subscribing for a year. It’s really curious, all functions seem intact only pulled back by 50% VAC. I’ve been able to test for DC leakage as well as reform older electrolytics. On a personal side note, as a 76-year-old Vietnam vet (roiled with internal conflicts about that participation), I must say That I respect your choice and admire your courage in displaying who you are. Good for you! We are are nothing, if not humane to each other.
@@mariomopic5809 I spent too long being who everyone else thought I should be, so it's nice to just 'be me' - whoever that is. 🏳⚧😉 I really do appreciate your kind words and support - thank you! ☺ And please do let me know if AWA has any answers for you!
@@GaryLaRocco Hi Gary... You're most welcome and thank you for putting out such highly informative videos. Two Gents (Paul and Tom) from AWA responded to my help query within hours! We went through a week-long troubleshoot and today was finally able isolate the culprit - the LR8 voltage regulator at "U2". It was blown. I followed this discovery up by rechecking the values of every capacitor and resister on the board - All Good. In my clumsiness, I did manage to break off the load leg of the other LR8 @ U1. So Ill be ordering replacements from Mouser once I get a list for other component needs from other projects. Thanks again! - Mario
Hey Gary, , or anyone on here ever try leakage testing capacitors with one of those "Withstand Voltage Testers" used for IGBTs & .. ?? They're capable of high voltage (50~500V+ +) with up to 5mA output.
HELP!!! I just order the PCB and parts as instructed. Can someone please tell me how to wire the test/discharge switch (NKK, S332) to the PCB. Im not so clear on this. For example, which E number on PCB should be wired to which switch contact (1 to 6). Also the common (E11), should this be on more than one switch contact? This would be a super big help. Thank you
