This video is legitimate. So many videos on RU-vid leave out the steps about priming the muntins and back-bedding the sash, and painting the new glazing when it’s skinned over. You absolutely need to do those steps to make it last. The bit about the bent putty knife is legit too, it’s the way to go. Though Dap never worked well for me. I have had great results with Crawfords Putty and it’s ready to paint in a week. Sarco is a preference too.
Your Right, Thanks. I plan to delve into priming and painting in a future video. I only use oil base to prime; which allows me to hasten everything along.
@@brianmanne7493 I’ve heard linseed oil is a good primer for under the putty but I’ve never tried it. I’ll have to next time. I’ve used oil primer with good results but you’re absolutely right, you don’t want old thirsty wood sucking the oil out of the new putty!
I might have touted the S--I glazing. I met Andy, the owner of that concern at a trade symposium. He impressed me as a smirking insolent schmuck that was bottle fed as a baby; But I’m not always right in summing up diddybopps. Thanks for your interest!
Interesting video, I enjoyed it, but FYI wavy glass is wavy because that's how it was made, not because of it moving while in place. Glass is a non-crystaline amorphous solid, not a liquid as is often thought and it doesn't move when installed. It's possible to buy new versions of wavy glass that is manufactured the same process what was used to manufacture the original glass. There are several glass distributor companies in North America who import restoration glass for use in restoring old windows.
Hi Brian. Stumbled across your video as I prepare to replace the glass in my sash windows in my little 1860s cottage in South Australia. I'm wondering what technique you use when measuring for the new glass? I could match the glass that comes out, but who knows how accurate that is. Cheers
Dap 33 was never an ideal putty to reglaze wood sash windows because it takes to long to skin over so it can be painted. At the glass shop I worked at in the 50's - 70's we used tan color linseed oil putty which a different & much faster to apply. Woodsash window manufacturers never back bedded the sash with putty only puttied the face. By him back bedding the glass with putty actually does a better job but not necessary. Interesting to watch his technique. I am retired after being in the glass industry for 60 years.
Thanks, I would use another product if it was readily available. Since I only use oil base paint, it’s not so bad to wait 10 days. I bet you were a lot faster with the putty knife than me.
Yes. That’s what I do, and it works well. You’ve got to be patient and careful because if you keep the heat in one spot for too long, the glass can crack. Even on the most stubborn old windows, once part of the putty softens, it all starts to loosen and it comes off easily. I use the heat gun on high, keep it at least 6 inches away from the glass and quickly run it from one end to the other.
