I have the Rockseed version ot this power supply, and it was fairly expensive, but worth every penny IMO, I really like it. The ability to set the Voltage and Current before committing to completing the circuit is a feature that should be on every power supply. Between this and setting the Over Voltage and Over Current settings, you have some great and nice features that ensure that you'll not let the blue smoke out of your favorite circuit. The display is easy on the eyes and clear as a bell, even at a distance! I think this is one of those investments that are worth making. It's a well-designed lab type piece of equipment. Kudos to the originator of this design. Nice!
Bravo! Excellent tutorial for this unit. You explained it's features very well. Now, I looking for a video of comprehensive performance testing including noise tests. My only criticism is the "time out" feature factory set at 5 seconds. It would be nice to have it at 7 or 8 seconds. Better yet, if the user had the option to adjust the timeout.
I ordered through Amazon two days ago and received it the very next day. $98 US with free delivery. It was easily mastered especially thanks to your excellent tutorial video. I really like this unit due to the fact the voltage and current settings can be easily dialed in with rock solid stability. Most of the competing switching supply's of this kind seem to be plagued with "quirky" oversensitive settings as I have seen in several videos. The 5 second timeout is a non issue when you get used to it. I did note the AC ripple was a bit higher than the spec sheet showed. But what the heck, its not bad for a inexpensive switching power supply.
Well that was a very informative video of how to operate this power supply. So many reviewers that have purchased this PS comment that I wish it would do this, or it can't do that. Obviously they don't fully understand its capabilities. Thank you for explaining so well !! I've been considering a few different PS's and have watched quite a few videos on them, and a few on this particular one. I'm pretty sure that this is the one I'll be getting. Its separate power button to energize the output and being able to program it are features that I think I will greatly appreciate down the road. Thanks again for such a thorough explanation! I see that you are new to RU-vid. Only one video ! I still subscribed!
What a fantastic explanation of this unit. I am as green as they come and bought this PS about a year ago and didn’t fully understand it. You are the first of many videos that helped me make sense out of it. I wish you had more videos. If you explain things the way you did on this video you’ll have a long list of viewers. This company should hire you To demos their products 😃 Thank you.
Great explanation thank you. I've had the HM305P version for a few years now and only just learned what some of the functions are, thanks again for the clear instructions.
I usually don't comment but had to do it. I recently bought this unit and was trying to learn, your (excellent) tutorial helped me figure everything out in 15 mins. Keep up the good work.👍
Excellent instructions! This helped me with my new Hanmatek HM 305 that did not come with a manual. Looking forward to more videos from you. Thank you.
Try setting the voltage to about 20Volt and limit output current to 20mA. Then switch output on and connect the led (without Resistor). If your led survive this, it is good powersupply , if not try this one: riden rd6012. Thats what I bought after i get rid of hm310, which is by the way more expensive.
Hello @powermax. Thank you for the feedback. We've worked with LED's for a long time but never thought to power them without the protective resistor until we saw it on RU-vid. Previously we tried it with success at 5V so today we tried it again; we set the current ("I cc" button) to 10mA, as 20mA is the max for our LED, and the voltage ("U cv" button) to 0v and connected the LED directly across the power supply terminals. We turned up the voltage slowly using the rotating shuttle knob. At about 1.6v the "U cv" button is lit green, the "I cc" button light is off, and the LED first begins to light up dimly using about 0.1mA. Turning the voltage up more the LED is bright at 2V using 2.5mA, "U cv" button is still green and "I cc" is still off. Turning up the voltage to a little more has the LED gets brighter and at 2.3V, with the current just at 9.6mA, the LED suddenly gets a littler dimer; the "U cv" button light goes off and the "I cc" red light comes on showing the current is limited. Turning the voltage up further manually past 2.3v using the rotating shuttle knob we could go all the way to 30V and the LED kept lighting with the voltage limited at 2.8V and the current still limited to about 9.7mA. All looks good so far. Then instead of manually adjusting the voltage, we turned the O/P Off and back on at 3V. The LED flashes briefly and then comes on fully. We tried the same at 5V, 10V, 20V and 30V and it works each time - the LED flashes when it comes back on each time. We suspected this would fail with a current spike when the power O/P was turned on but no, all good so far. Then, with the power O/P still on we physically disconnected the LED and connected it again, this time the LED did not light back up and was destroyed. It seems then that the "ON/OFF power output button" in this case does protect the integrity of the current limiting feature of this power supply all the way up to maximum 32V. No doubt there are other scenarios and we would love to hear about them - thank you!
Merci pour cette vidéo qio m'explique enfin toutes les finesses de cette alim de labo. Le mien est un RockSeed RS330P mais c'est exactement le même. Impossible de trouver sa notice/manuel en pdf sur le web... Même le support Rockseed est introuvable ! Tu m'as sauvé, un grand merci à toi pour cette vidéo très bien faite et qui va au bout des choses. Bonne continuation, je m'abonne pour te suivre d'dorénavant :)
Front Panel Operating Instructions: To set Voltage, Press "U" key; use arrow keys to select digit place and use jog wheel to select digit. Press "B" key (enter) To Set Current Limit, Press "I" key; use arrow keys to select digit place and use jog wheel to select digit. Press "B" key (enter) To program voltage, current, and time into memory location (i.e. M1), Press "M1". Cursor will be on voltage field; , use arrow key and jog wheel to select digit locations and digits. Press in jog wheel. Cursor moves to the "current" field. Again, use arrow keys and jog wheel to select and set digits. Press in jog wheel. Cursor will move to bottom field. This field is a time field. If you want the present setting to stay on indefinitely, select 0 in this field. If you want to use this voltage/current selection in a sequential series of voltage, current periods, select the time you want this selection to be output in seconds (list mode). Press the "M1" button twice to enter or accept this "programmed" selection. Repeat for M2-M6 as desired. If you want to programmatically select the memory locations you have previously entered, press the "List" button to have the power supply step through your selections sequentially. Notes: The "B" key also functions as a front panel key lock out. Press and hold to Lock and unlock the keypad. There is an aggravating 4 second timeout on all keypad entries. If you wait too long at any one step. The Power supply will abort and you will have to start over. No way provided to change this time limitation ! I don't read Chinese very well and the factory instructions for operating the front panel were not intuitive or clear. Apparently this PS is marketed by a number of companies. I scraped and summarized the instructions above from this RU-vid video (Circuits by Code) on "HM310P Power Supply Operation" ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FszOIFw9FO0.html for a Hammatek HM310P. Hope this helps someone else. Thank you, Circuits by Cole
great ! I got little newer HM310T model by Hanmatek, little different interface, there's dedicated 'next' button (same as list) which does toggling between u/i/time when programming M buttons
Did you know that there is a secret menu you can access by Holding Output ON whilst powering up. There may be a way to change the 5 second inactivity setting in there
Thank you all for the kind and supportive comments and thank you Terry for the tip. I did come across the mention of a "secret menu" but did not know how to turn it on so a big thank you! The secret menu is rather cryptic but I have been looking at the software that accompanied the unit to find that it offers some insights to what things mean in the included XML files. I have also been looking at 3rd party software. I intent to do another video on the accompanying software and 3rd party software, and also how to easily turn the button beep off. Alas, I have not yet been able to find a way to extend the inactivity timeout yet.
Just a couple of questions, I'm new at this and am looking for a unit that will do all of what you use one for, but would like to know if it will effectively charge LiPo/LifePo using CC, then automatically switching to CV when it reaches the setting you enter. I've read the manual and while it does have both CC/CV modes, it say's nothing about automatically switching to CV and not a lot of info specifically for charging. Also looks like most places are out of stock which maybe this is discontinued, and wondering since this post is old are you satisfied with this unit over time, would you recommend purchasing one or another that has similar functions? You did an excellent job of explaining and very instructive video covering this unit.
Thank you. Yes, I use it to charge Lipo batteries using he 1C method. For example, if you had a 1000mAh Lipo, to charge at 1C you would set your charger for 1 Amp. The voltage takes care of itself so for example, if you set the supply to say 4V (or whatever voltage the battery is) then the unit will begin pumping out 1 Amp, but if the battery is discharged, the voltage will drop right away. As it charges and the voltage builds up to 4V it will stop there and now the current drops down as the battery gets more and more charged
@@circuitsbycode5443 Thanks for responding! I figured it would but reading the manual didn't say. Is there any way it can be programed to stop charging when current drops to a value you can set?
The U and I on both buttons are the international formular symbols for Volt (V) and Ampere (A). This is common in international school and science mathematics based of the metric system. It looks like the U.S. is not using it.
@@generalawareness101 Maybeso, but we europeans think it is silly .Say I=34A,but V=12V . Obiously (V)=12V should be (U)=12v analoge to current (I)is 34 A. so voltage should be (U) and not (V). dahhh. It sets apart units from quantities
Also one believes U may originate from theGerman word Unterschied . Wich would make perfect sense .Unlike silly scams like miles broken into feet broken into inches broken into fahreheit or whatever . Dahhhhh
@@schytdemijn5398 As I said this is the USA and that will never fly here for at least another 50-100 years. Hell, even in College electrical courses they don't teach the U. Look at Ohms law to see it written as V = IR. V/I/R.
Or, to but it more bluntly ,should there be a treaty of some kind to push VS toward the International System . Ofcourse there is already one but nobody in the VS seems to have a vage if any recollection of that ,oh well : ) couple of decades does wonders .
I've got a 1980s TT linear PSU that has CC, CV, SC protection which is pretty much bomb proof but definitely not *programmable* I'm willing to bet I can spin my dials and set my CV and CC settings before you can find what ever stored setting your looking for.
Hi, and thank you so-much for a Fantastic review, as they say "A Picture is Worth a Thousand Words" and as I say when it comes to Product Reviews, "A word is Worth A Thousand Pictures", Do you still have and use this Bench Power Supply today? Thanks again, Paul
Good day thank you for the explanation of the DC PSU but is there better software to use with than the cd they supply in the package? hope to get a replay been looking online for more features that a powerdc software can do on my monitor screen.
Thank you, you are my first review! I am delighted with what you wrote as it is the reason I created this video, I can't believe you nailed it so well! To answer your question, the maximum time for the automatic voltage/current switching feature under the "List" function is 9,999 seconds or 2 hours, 46 minutes, and 39 seconds for each specific memory button that is enabled. I think it is a nice power supply, the only negative I would say is that the 5 second inactivity timeout is a little annoying although you get used to it.
You mentioned Arduino - you should make more videos including Arduino projects - I also love Arduino and Seeeduino.... But I don't see on your list any other but the power supply.
hi circuit city..do anyone know that the +/_ banana clips wires with the protective heat material wrapped around it is? manual no show anyhting about it.
I've had mine for more that a year and I use it all the time. Currently I have it charging a fuel cell to extract hydrogen from water. I have never seen any "bangs" or "sparks" when turning it on. The great thing is the separate output on/off switch so it comes on with the output off. I use it for many different things, including charging all kinds of batteries with no problems
sorry for asking this as its not related to your video but have you tried the CV and CC feature on this PSU . I tried charging a battery cell at some voltage but this PSU shifted from CC to CV before that set point was reached . please let me know if you have faced a similar issue too , thanks
This will happen if the battery is full or it is not able to be charged well. In another word, the battery is no good. It happened to one of the 18650 batteries which I tried to revive. The other batteries all charged well.
It didn't switch to CC before the voltage reached the limit, as soon as the current starts flowing the voltage jumps because of internal resistance of the battery and if the current is to high then the voltage without voltage limit would be above the limit as soon as charging starts. Try charging with lower current. For example, if LiPo battery is at 3.8V and the current limit is 2A then voltage without voltage limit would jump over 4.2V and in that case the CV mode would be activated. If you lower the current to 0.5 A the voltage jumps less and it would take some time until it reaches 4.2V. If the battery has high internal resistance the voltage jumps more with the current.
Has anybody tested this power supply with very low currents ? such as small electronic circuits. How accurate is the current measurement in the 0 to 10 mA range ? I have a RockSeed RS305P and the current does not register until 8mA, it could be a fault or maybe the current measurement is just inaccurate, it measures correctly with a multimeter so I dont see why power supply should not be able to manage it. Thinking of returning it to Amazon
Hello @Keith L. Yes, I have the HM310P - the same version as you but 10 amps. I see the same thing. When I put a 1K load across the outputs and set the unit to 5V, I should get 5mA. Instead I see "0.000" for the current display when I should be seeing 0.005. I do see the 5mA on my multimeter. If I crank up the voltage until my multimeter reads 7mA the current display on the power supply finally activates from 0 to 4mA (0.000 -> 0.004), still a bit off. It gets more accurate as I turn up the voltage to output more current and matches my multimeter at about 18mA. Oddly, while the display does not show low currents, the power supply itself is still able to limit the current at low levels. For example, when I set my voltage to 5V and current at 5mA and then crack up the voltage to increase the current output the unit will limit the output to 5mA (and the current "I" button turns red). This works all the way down to 1mA. From this I don't think there is anything wrong with your specific unit, its just that the unit in general does not display low currents well.
@@circuitsbycode5443 Thanks for doing those tests, you got exactly the same result as I did including the fact that the current limiting works all the way down to 1mA but the power supply does not display the actual current on the LED display. I reported the problem to the distributor here in the UK via Amazon, he sent me information to calibrate the unit, after some trouble understanding the badly translated instructions I did manage to recalibrate the current measurements but the problem with not showing the low mA current remains, a second approach to the distributor resulted in the statement that there was no other way to fix the problem. It looks like there is a bug in their programming. I have returned the power supply to Amazon for a refund, it’s a shame as the rest of the unit works well and the price is good, it just did not suit the work I want to use it for.
@Hugo Hew. Yes, the one I have does not have the 220V option either but I have seen photos of the exact same model that do. I am in the United States so I'm guessing it does not have this option in the U.S. market which is why I noted in the updated manual, that the U.S version is 110V only. Can you tell us where you are located? Thanks
