Thank you for all of these informative videos! Concise and to the point with great tips on how to work various assemblies. I did watch the video on adding the backup and license plate lights. I am looking at bringing my HUMMVE over to Europe and they have an issue where all signal lights are yellow. Have you noticed anywhere in the tech manuals where I could isolate the rear brake lights from the signal lights and running two new lines for the yellow signal lamps in the rear? I happened across a video some young army mechanics removing a transmission from a HUMMVE. Good grief! These guys are total idiots, bucking common safety practices! I do hope that we don’t really have mechanics like these jokers in the military. I can’t remember what base they were stationed at but I do hope their CO will see their video and take action. They will be filing for so many injury claims if not killing themselves in the process of doing their work. These are serious trucks that require serious mechanics to do the work properly without rigging a repair like a bunch of uneducated Russian conscripts.
The wiring diagram is located in the Unit Maintenance Manual (TM 9-2320-280-20-3 - Part 3). For rear yellow signals you might be able to tie into the wires for the front turn signal lights and run new wires to the rear of the truck to power those. The rear red brake lights would still flash with the turn signals but you'd have yellow ones that were semi-independent of the brake lights. If the rear turn needed to not flash with the turn signals that would be a bit more work. Hope this helps.
@@midnightmachineshop that’s what I was thinking of doing but I would need to see the wiring diagram for the turn signal switch for isolating the red turn circuit from the braking circuit. Thanks for the info and which manual I need to obtain, maybe it’s on line, need to check.
I recently acquired a Humvee and find your videos very helpful and informative. I really like that you show the part numbers and manual references to what you're doing. Thank you for making great videos.
Thank you very much. I wanted everyone to know that the information was actually from a genuine source and where to get additional information if it was needed.
@@midnightmachineshop oooh I love it!! ... and I love this car... They are so easy to work on and with. Compare to our german cars this Numvee is like a fairy tail :) Really love to watch your vids ... One more time Thumb up and thank you !!
Thanks for the info! I wound up doing it 40 cycles which took longer. Either way It worked out as when I started the truck the power steering pump was nicely primed and didn't put a bunch of air bubbles into the fluid.
Thanks a lot for detailed videos … I just got humvee without radiator and coolant leak . I am getting champion radiator tomorrow hope this is complete video which I need to setup
Watched your short on hub maintenance....If you could would love to see a video on that process. I have yet to do mine, very interested to know your process!!! thanks!!!
Those bolts on that A arm being mixed up like that is scary... I've been working on my trucks for the last year and saw a few mistakes, but the bolts on the A arm... that's something else. Safe driving and nice work!
Unfortunately there was a lot more loose including other suspension parts and a spindle nut. I'll be going over it in an upcoming video on the suspension and hub rebuild.
@midnightmachineshop Wow, it is good that you checked. I usually hear the normal horror stories about the spindles, but this is very eye-opening. I'll be sure to pass on the knowledge when I get a chance on my M1097R1. If you don't mind, when I post some of my own updates, can I use your videos as a reference link in the description? Edit: I'll briefly but informatively have a few seconds of footage on this but leave the important part to your channel footage Thanks!
What is the maximum temperature indicated by the coolant needle that you have ever reached under effort? Have you ever touched the line/notch next to the middle when overexerting yourself? Thank you
So far the truck has run at around 195-205°F (90-96°C). I switched to the new style temperature gauge and sending unit (PN 6015560-61) after noticing that the original gauge was reading around 10°F lower than I was measuring with an IR thermometer.
Careful with aluminum radiators. They cannot handle vibration like the OEM copper rads do - which is why copper rads are what are used in heavy construction equipment. The isolators don't really do a great job in getting all of the vibration.
Wish I had ordered the right champion radiator. Had to use a flex radiatorhose for mine and am guessing it won't last as long, just carrying a spare for now.
Exact model of radiator hose nipple ( blue one ) I unable to find that and help me with the front radiator mount bolts and spacer specs so I can order online
I could use your help if you wouldn’t mind. Please sir I have two M1097A2’s and could use some FaceTime or messaging on sourcing and or finding out what exactly I’m missing and how to hook it up on cooler lines transmission, oil radiator and sourcing certain parts. Your help would be greatly appreciated. I’ll pay you for for your time.
I'm not sure of the difference in capacity between the aluminum 3-core aluminum radiator that I used and the OEM copper-brass radiator; I never had the original radiator to compare it to. That being said, my truck runs right around 195°F on a day that is 85°F. I did see that a company is now offering a 4-core but the water inlet for the radiator is in the H1 rather than the HMMWV location, which would require a different upper radiator hose.
