This is a comprehensive tutorial on how I weathered the HO Scale Athearn Genesis "Solid Cold" Mechanical Reefer. Princeton 3/4 "Grainer" brush: seven dollars (CDN) at Michaels Craft Store.
Paint Properties 101: Acrylic Paints are fundamentally opaque. Oil Paints are fundamentally transparent. It doesn't matter how much water you add to acrylic paint pigment, it will always be opaque. At full strength, regardless of thinner volume, oil paint properties will always be transparent.
As a previous forklift operator, I can confirm shutting doors with the tip of the blade is the SOP. 😂 What a fun video. Cant wait to build my skills! Thanks Boomer!
Finally! Somebody that weathered and aged the trains too. So many layouts where the scenery is aged and weathered by the trains look like they are brand new and never been used. Good job.
When I studied art I was always told, layer your paint, don't try to out it all on at once. That applies to all mediums, like, water, pastel. Sound advise. Beautiful work Boomer
You are exactly right about that! The novice will often try to cover things in one "thick" coat . . . or several . . . which will almost always end up making mud. Cheers.
Thank you! Here is a weathering video with a different subject, but it relates to any model including trains, etc.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FFmi06GvMJI.html
I don't know about anybody else .... but, I felt like I was in a masterclass, lol. Great techniques man, I am learning immensely from you. Thanks again for sharing... thank god for RU-vid!
I really enjoyed listening to your story and how you've been painting all your life and that you've found a weathering/painting method you are happy with. I struggle with losing patience and rushing sometimes and eventually giving up. Looking forward to your next video!
Glad you enjoyed it! I understand what you are saying about "giving up." I gave up on lot's of attempts in the past. Then I kept revisiting them and they eventually came out O.K. But, I have also failed miserably often at times. It's just part of the learning curve we all have to go through bud. Cheers ~ Boomer.
THANK YOU for sharing, I;m always looking for more insight on how to go about weathering certain things and I just learned more from this, thanks again for sharing!!
The weathering technique is very effective, the various mediums you use made sense, how you build them up, which I very much took note of. The oil rust streaks at end were just perfect, and noting how you kept brush moving away from body in a straight line. There can be a tendency to flick at end of stroke or stop to soon. Your experience shows, and you created a worn looking car, which looks amazing. Top Notch Boomer. All the best. Brian @ The Angels
Thank you so much for your videos -- and the work that goes into making them. I've been doing this stuff for over 20 years -- on top of two careers in which fine hand work and dedication to craftsmanship were big parts of the package -- but I still find them immensely valuable. I appreciate both your skills and your don't-be-afraid-of-mistakes approach, as well as your realism about the fact that there's no substitute for putting in the time it takes to learn a craft.
You are very welcome Evan! Thank you for taking the time to contribute your wisdom and thoughts to the the model railroad community we all love and share. Cheers. ~ Boomer.
The wife and I went to Hobby Lobby today and I spotted this brush that looked really interesting. We came home after a nice dinner and I started watching your video. Near the end of the video I see you are using my new brush. I knew it looked interesting and could be useful. Great video and tutorial!! It is a bad day when I don't learn something new. As it turns out, this was a very good day. Thanks for taking the time to making this video. Cheers - Larry.
The forklift driver uses an extension that fits over the fork. If I remember 4’ long or more to open the doors that are stuck shut. Like any profession some are more skilled. I worked with an old guy who could flip a dime in the air with one of his forks. Great tutorial, I’m impressed with your eye for detail and your ability to recreate that detail with shadows and colors.
I agree with you 100% I believe in weathering models I plan to do just that with these truck kits I build here nothing every stays perfectly clean in real life you have to develop your own techniques in weathering models
@@boomerdiorama + I just can't believe how realistic your layout looks it looks like it could be used in a move special effects move great work will keep watching your videos and give them a thumbs up 👍
Love the whole weathering process, one of the best aspects of the hobby in my opinion, and so relaxing because I immerse myself into thinking how I want each object to look and how it has formed, but best of all it now has my personal touch to it. Great to know I am using similar techniques and colors. Thanks for the tip about the "Grainer" brush.
Great video and tutorial of weathering techniques! The rust just looks amazing and definitely makes it pop like taking the Qtip to clean up certain edges to bring the original color back through. You're quite talented and yes I know its something you have to work with to become like anything else. Thankfully since I started doing my own weathering and graffiti I've been very pleased with the results. Fortunately I have experience with an airbrush with painting tags and tshirts. The airbrush is the best thing to use when doing the undercarriage on rolling stock. Thanks again for sharing your videos with us along with your time and effort!
Thank you very much for your service to the community! It's always a treat to watch your videos and this was - like the others - very instructive, helpful, and inspiring! Thank you!
Hello from Seattle, USA. I love your layout, advice, tips, and techniques. You have inspired me to get to work on my own 8 ft by 2 ft layout and I’ve made a lot of progress. My wife says that my buildings look better than any store bought kit she’s ever seen. I like your unique use of Tamiya X-21 flat base. Some people don’t know this but X-21 is meant to be used to turn Tamiya gloss paint into Tamiya flat paint by adding it directly to the paint. Can’t wait for the next video but in the meantime I’ll settle for watching Luke Towan.
Thank You. I'm glad to hear you are modelling and having fun. It's important to scratch the creative itch for sure. Besides, look at all the rewards we glean. Luke Towan is a fantastic modeler. He was one of my first subscribers as well. He does stunning work. Cheers.
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing your techniques. I'll make your head swell a little and say that you are considered a master to many watching including myself because you've put in the time it takes to get there like you talked about in the beginning of the video. Stay well. -Wil 👍
Boomer, thanks for sharing your techniques with us - that flat base really gives a cool effect! I love how the roof is looking with just that and the burnt umber wash. Then manipulating it into "peeling" with Isopropyl was fascinating to see. Using the "incompatibility" of the mediums to your advantage - brilliant! I was eager to see how you faded this yellow car to that nice off white-yellow color as I struggled fading yellow down on a recent project, only to find out it was a white car with a yellow wash! made me laugh out loud. be well! -John
That brush you used at the end for the streaks is amazing. I’ve seen a lot of videos on weathering and that is something I’ve never seen before. Doesn’t look inexpensive. I’m in n scale so I’ll need to look for something a bit narrower. Thanks for sharing
Greetings From Colorful Colorado WJ, Tonight is the 3rd time I am watching this Vlog. Every time I re-watch your videos I catch/learn something new and this time is no disappointment. I am wondering why you would mask the trucks? You mentioned that you didn't want to airbrush the pick-ups on the trucks. What are the pick-ups for? Lights? Your Faithful Student, John
I masked the trucks because there are wheel wiper electrical pickups for the soundboard in this unit. It has a sound file for a genset that comes on . . . idles . . . then shuts off for awhile.
Boomer, thanks so much for sharing, these videos are awesome, gonna give it a shot this weekend…. I didn’t see any demo/technique on the Tamiya Weathering Master A & B sets, do you have one or will be doing a video on them? Really do appreciate the time you spent making these tutorials! Thanks Schooner
Fantastic tutorial. It’s so easy to overthink things when it comes to weathering. You demonstrate in a way that is very enjoyable to watch. I have some X-21 and will for sure give this a try for the initial fade/wash. I may have missed it but did you thin this slightly with isopropyl? All the best, John
Hello Boomer, great presentation. I'm glad I found your channel. Have a question to ask you. What acrylic color would you use for a wash on an old red Conrail box car? Also, would you use the Tamiya x-21 for a base? I appreciate any feedback. Great work again.
No X-21 for base really. I would try raw or burnt umber for a wash and then highlight with flesh or super pale white for starters. You have to practice weathering until you find the right combination and expect to make mistakes. No learning without mistakes. When you gain confidence through practice you will paint any car eventually. Cheers.
These are great techniques, thanks for showing us! I have a question regarding the oil paint streaks. Because oil paints tend to dry much slower than acrylic's, how long do you let your burn umber oils sit on the car before you apply the brush with the mineral spirits?
That all depends on the painter. It also depends if the oil is leached out first. Personally, I wait ten to fifteen minutes after pulling the oil off a piece of cardboard to suck the oil out first, and then apply it, wait a few minutes, and then streak it down with a clean brush, dipped in mineral spirits. Always a clean brush. ;-)
Boomer~ Now that I'm caught up on all the current videos, I've begun watching the earlier ones from the Glover Road "era' that I missed. This is a really good one. I'm curious about the Tamiya Flat Base. How will it work over a decaled car vs. one that is factory painted? In other words, how will it affect the decal film? Using a stiff brush to remove the flat base, it looks like it could destroy the decal. Thanks.
I wouldn't do it unless you use a lacquer sealer coat first. Why? Because thee Isopropyl Alcohol could affect the decal. No issues with a factory painted car though - so far for me.
As an Englishman, I wonder if it’s possible to get some Vikings painted. I’m of Viking stock and have a small collection of a Viking ship made of glass in a bottle, and some silver looking warriors.
Boomer, I grew up learning to paint on model cars and trucks. No telling how many I put together and painted and then mom threw them away when they fell apart from age after I moved out of my room.
Good question. It depends. The primary reason why I prep with Tamiya X-21 "Flat Base" is to fade and create "tooth" for the (slippery) water-based paints (in this case Vallejo). The Flat Base adds "tooth" to the surface. Water based paints love tooth when you want to create a "filter" layer. Tamiya X-21 helps the water-based paint "cling" to the surface better and it also leaves that "chalky" substance behind which enhances the grip in the corners of the engraving etc. The residual microscopic chalk also "sponges" up the washes, especially in the corners. If you treat a building this way it does the same thing as well (like brick-work for example). If you just paint with the airbrush only, then you don't need to use the Tamiya X-21 "Flat Base," because all Tamiya paint is technically "flat" primer paint anyway. If you choose to paint a commercial building (already painted), with a brush, and the building is semi-gloss or satin, then I would use the Tamiya X-21 "Flat Base first to achieve the same effect (tooth). I hope that helps. Cheers. ~ Boomer.
@@boomerdiorama it sure does. I picked up 5 bottles of X-21 from the Tamiya store here in Singapore! They only get small deliveries for some reason so I buy up the shop whoever I visit. Lol
@@PeterTillman3 I know eh! I did the same thing the other day. I also grab all the XF-52 "Flat Earth" and the XF-57 "Buff" as well. Besides Black and White, which I always have in stock. I also grab up their new colors which I love like XF-79 "Linoleum Deck Brown." It makes for a beautiful rail brown rust color mixed with a little black. Cheers.
Sometimes I will use a blow dryer. I usually have a fan running off the corner of my bench. It's moving air that dry's the paint, not so much temperature.
My Tamiya X-21 Flat Base #81521 is clear, but I noticed that your's is gray? Did you add something to your bottle to make it that gray color? if so, what and at what %? Thank you
I've just come from your other video where you used X-21 Flat base but diluted with 99% iso alc. Is the X-21 diluted the same in this video? If so, what was the ratio again please?
Are there any dangers of the base model color coming off when you use the tamiya flat base with ipa? Like if I have a green NYC or PC box car, is there any chance the green could come off?
Great question. I have never had an issue with Tamiya paint or "Flat Base" removing factory colors on most cars. I have used this method on Athearn, Atlas, Kato, Tangent, etc. Furthermore, it is best not to thin down the Flat Base (with IPA) if you can avoid it. I have a lot of experience with this product so I don't recommend you thin it more than it already is. Besides, Tamiya (XF-21) "Flat Base" goes a long ways out of the bottle because you only want to lay on an initial thin "Base" layer as the bottle suggests. When it chalks up after drying, you stipple it away with a stiff brush leaving a very flat chalky finish. The theory behind this base paint is to remove the "slippery" effect of the factory surface so washes cling to the surface better which produces nice effects when you use a layered wash application. If you soak a factory car with IPA or let a puddle of it sit over night on a flat surface then it will loosen some paint but you have to be very aggressive (over-and over) again before it will remove text, font, and then base color. If you don't have the confidence, use a cheap car first before moving to a prized possession. Cheers.😁
Yes! You certainly can! If you don't mind doing that process anything is possible. Some times I will base coat a building with flat enamel paint (spray bomb/rattle can), and then go nuts on it with layers of Tamiya/ IPA for effect. This way I won't have to worry about cutting through to the plastic layer. I like to let underlying layers to show though by accident. ;-).
Yes. I weathered the ends with the airbrush (super thin umber wash sprayed on). You can stab it in with a traditional brush as well. That's another tutorial in itself . . . in some ways. Cheers.
No. If I decide to lay on graffiti decals. I'll clear then flat coat. Otherwise I don't usually bother, unless it's a locomotive where I want some "satin" look to it. Cheers.
No. Make sure you use a cheap or beater boxcar. When it dry's white and chalky just knock it all down with a stiff brush. Then put water based washes over it one layer at a time.
Okay I really need to know how you set up that brush to do rust runs down the side at the start of the video. I need to know brush type how to cut it to make those runs please! I have several cars that need those streaks big time! TIA Bob Menzies in da peg.
It's called a "grainer" brush. Just ask at any art store (I picked up mine at "Opus Art Supply." The bristles are staggered that way by default. Cheers.
@@boomerdiorama so I can choose how many teeth the brush has? Also how much pressure is needed to do it with one pass? Light medium or heavy touch on the brush?
@@railscanner Respectfully, No. Nevertheless, it's a good question Bob. The brush comes as is. As far as "touch" on the pass, it's different for each individual. Practice on a sheet of plastic or a cheap boxcar until you get a feel for it, then just dive in and go for it. We all have to do the practical with risk of fail. No one has it mastered . . . lol. Cheers
Sorry. No. It's RU-vid Platform to your Device issue. I have no technical remedy other than uploading the video. Sorry to hear you are having trouble. Good Luck
@@boomerdiorama solved it. Thanks for the reply. I had to reboot my computer. Strangest thing, only this video wouldn't play, any other video was fine.
