This is a really good video regarding Husky cabinet assembly. I would add a few comments. Get a blanket to lay on the floor of the garage unless you want your new cab to look like crap right off the bat. Don't tighten any screws until the end, except tighten the leveler feet. Make sure to mount the leveler feet in the same orientation shown on this video to maximize stability. Assemble the cabinet keeping the screws loose, put the doors on and make sure they are seated all the way in the hinge mechanism. To square up the cabinet, close the doors and even them up. Then put a vise grip on the top of the abutted handles to keep them lined up. By doing that the cab is squared up. Then tighten all of the screws. When you remove the vise grip your cab will be squared. Consider putting the shelves in place before you square it up. Leveling is different than squaring up the cabinet. Best to level a squared up cabinet. After the cabinet is squared and the screws tightened, set a bubble leveler on the cabinet shelf then adjust the leveler feet. By doing this you will have a cab that's squared AND evenly leveled. Do not use casters!! 70x18 inch cabinets are NOT intended to be used with casters. Especially if you intend to hang a bunch of stuff on the pegboard doors. When it falls over onto your kid or your shiny new car you will regret it. Some caster sets have two stationary and two swivel casters. Don't even use those. Casters and a wall strap?? Kinda defeats the purpose. Good luck and keep DIY-ing!
Excellent instructions! There were many reviews that the doors werwe not aligned at the top and the reveal was off. You explained exactly how to align and level the cabinet. Much appreciate the video...Great job!!!
After the sides and top are on, you can lay it on it’s face and measure the back diagonally both ways. You can shift the top or the bottom and when you get the exact same measurement, you can put the back pieces on and tighten them up. Then stand the cabinet up and plumb up the back with a level. At that point I put a couple of screws through the back into the wall. If you don’t want to screw it to a wall, plumb it up by adjusting the 2 back legs. Once that is done, put the doors on and adjust their fit by screwing the front legs up or down. When doing that, keep in mind to level the cabinet front to back
Ours had no instructions in the box. It was a 48” cabinet but almost everything was the same. What a lifesaver! Thanks for putting together this video!
I bought a few of these for pantry items in my basement. Used a wheel kit instead of the feet that came with it. Even with these loaded up, they roll around very easily and are very stable.
Excellent video instructions. Just as soon as Home Depot can find and deliver my order (2 units) I'll be sure to apply this video for the construction. I just got off the phone with HD, they were just short of saying "we have no idea where your order is." Hahahaha
Hi again - we did indeed do this ourselves - thanks Chuck! Only difference is we used the rolling casters but otherwise we followed your instructions to a tee! Well except the longest part wasn't the unboxing or assembling - it was unwrapping the protective plastic from each piece lol :-)
I just bought one after seeing this video! Love how clearly you explained it because of your experience building the first one I’ll be using it as a recording studio mic locker actually
It seems the biggest complaint about these is the plastic film wrapping each piece. Did you mention this? Did I miss it? Did you remove it? What happens over time, if you leave it on. Any advice?
I've been wanting one of these for a while now. I finally bought the 24x48x72 model and its ready for pickup but I wasn't sure if it would fit in my SUV or I would need help unloading. I'm going to assume the box is around 26x74x?? and its packaged well enough i can drop it during unloading. I really appreciate this video.
@@LancoAmish well it turns out your video did me no good. The next size up arrives fully assembled. Fortunately I was able to balance it on my roof and hold on through the window .
I can't get the doors right; the right door has a gap at the bottom. At some point I adjusted the legs and it sort of fixed itself, then the rest was wobbly, so I put the legs back flat. Not sure what I'm doing wrong. Any ideas would be appreciated greatly.
The gap can be felt running fingers across the bottom edge. Looking down on it, from against the doors, it also indicates a gap - it looks like it's sticking out there.
I loosened some of the connectors to get the cabinet wobbly and then made sure it was level. The doors then set square. It’s a matter of a jiggle here and a jiggle there to get things in position. It might only be one connector causing the problem too
I’m interested in the freestanding version. I want to put a compression rod inside to hang some coveralls. Will this cabinet hold up with only one upper shelf? Or maybe one upper snd one lower? Or do the shelves hold the unit sturdy and in place?
I got the 48 inch wide cabinet and when I put back panels on the mid back bolts wont line up. Its halfway done in my garage now. What should I do to fix this?
I didn’t but I don’t have children and won’t be climbing on them. I also load the bottom shelves with the heaviest stuff. If I had children in the house I would most certainly attach to the walls.
Thanks for watching. I can’t make a judgement on that. If I had to get them off the floor I would put them on a very strong shelf like support. Then also attach them to the wall.
The drawers are a nightmare to install. No idea why Husky engineers are such aggravating idiots. Does anybody know where I can some instructions on installing the drawer?
