When adding Potassium Metabisulphite to the red must is it 5 Gallons of juice and musk? How long do you wait until adding the culture east afterwards? A few hours? Thank you.
The must is the combination of both juice and skins. Calculate the amount of Potassium Metabisulphite to add based on the volume of must that you have. We usually wait 2 hours before pitching yeast. Supposedly the Kmeta binds quickly, but in case we haven't calculated correctly, we wait.
This is a great tutorial! I have 2 questions though: 1. how does the press work when the grapes have seeds? wouldn't they just slip though? 2. does this apply to making simple grape juice (as in, crash & press the grapes without any of the other steps)?
1. a few seeds slip through, but these are dropped, along with yeast cells and pulp, during fermentation 2. Juice would be a little cloudy - can put into frig a while to allow it to settle..
It's a Grifo (Italian.) don't know volume of hopper. Manual drive, on matching stand. You can see more of it here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CIs0kmzsAyc.html
Tradition is press first, just ferment the juice. Have never heard of anyone fermenting whites on the skins, but who knows? maybe someone is trying that; would be interested in hearing about it if someone is doing this.
@@SHredWorld its easy to set a batch aside with natural yeast from the skins alone. It starts a strong ferment right away and finishes within days/weeks. I only add potsulfite at end of ferment.
Please explain how you will adjust the must for acidity, pH and sulphur content. Very few explain it. Can you pleeeease make a video. Or explain with a video.
Realistically you dont need to use food grade plastic its fine nothing is going to get into your wine, I am a professional winemaker. What I can say is that you dont want to use any plastic thats scratched up as bacteria will hide in the scratches and can ruin your wine.
You need to crush your grapes and see how much volume you have. Test that volume (must) to find out how much sugar it has (measure specific gravity or Brix). Then calculate what specific gravity or Brix you would like, and either add sugar or dilute to reach desired SG. As a guide, a 5 gram packet of yeast will ferment about 18 L of must.
Like most fining agents, add when fermentation is complete. If you can wait, why not try racking periodically instead? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-T70LuwwY7fg.html
@@SHredWorld 🙄 sir first primary Fedamentation 7 days ,then secondary Fedamentation 23 days ,so 30 days completed then add the bentonite powder correct sir..
Have never done additions to improve color, but since people make wine with beet root juice, I assume it would be all right as long as the drinkers have no health issues with beets. Not sure if it would affect taste. There are other ways to get good color extraction next time you make wine.
How long before you can bottle the wine? I know you said when the fermentation ends, but could it be as soon as 2-3 weeks after being in the demijohns?
If the wine is clear, you could. But for me, I need more time to allow clearing. My usual - Whites, 5-6 months (racking a few times in between) then bottle if clear, Reds, as much as 20 months (again racking every three months or so) to allow adjustment and aging. There are fining agents available which can speed up the clearing process. amzn.to/2Xxs1Xa
the fermentation ends in less than a week with natural yeast from skins. If you use clearing agents along with sorbate and sulfide you can bottle well under 30 days. I currently have wine finished to peek dryness after only 6 days. Clearing snd degassing 5 days.
Good Question! The lower temperature slower fermentation of whites (to preserve flavor) makes them more susceptible to contamination. The air lock keeps contaminants out, but lets CO2 escape. Higher temperature faster fermentation of reds converts sugars to alcohol more quickly.
@@SHredWorld when you say contamination do you just mean like bugs and such? Or is the white so slow that you actually risk it going to vinegar? If you were to just cover the white with a cloth or something would that suffice? Or is the airlock a must have?
Yes, I mean contamination by air-borne bacteria that spoil unprotected juice. A cloth covering works fine as long as fermentation is occurring. Probably get a more rapid and vigorous ferment that way. I use airlock for whites because I prefer a long, slow ferment. Many different ways to make wine!
No such thing as silly question. Wine making is at same time simple AND complex. Here is a good resource for beginners and experienced winemakers: www.winepress.us
In order to make the best wine, one should know that water is the enemy of fermentation, even a drop of water, be it from rain or frost, it should not mix with grape fruit.
A fruit press is a complete waste of time, not to mention that the fruit skins add a lot of flavor to the wine. The way to make berry wine (grapes and muscadines are berries) is to pulse grind them in a blender with an equal amount of water each time, until you have three gallons of mash in a brew bucket. Then you add a gallon and a half of water, ten pounds of sugar, acid blend (according to the recipe), yeast nutrient, liquid pectic enzyme (twice the amount the recipes call for), and tannin powder (according to the type of fruit and according to the recipes). Then you follow the instructions for wine making.
I've seen similar methods for making wine but have never tried them. Sounds perfect for making small batches. Would love to hear how the wine turns out from those who make wine this way.
@@SHredWorld ~ If you visit some of the winemaker's forums and look around you'll find that most of the seasoned winemakers agree that the bigger the batch the better the wine turns out. Most of them won't bother making a batch smaller than three gallons, and most of the say that making a one gallon batch is a complete waste of time and effort. Personally, I try to always make sure I have enough fruit saved up in my freezer to make a five gallon batch of wine, no matter what the fruit is. I start it off in a six and a half gallon brew bucket stirring it every other day, then after six or seven days (depending on how the airlock is bubbling) I strain out the pulp with a five gallon paint straining bag (into another empty six and a half gallon brew bucket), then using a 12" winemaker's funnel I pour the wine into a five gallon carboy and fit it with a rubber winemaker's sleeve and an airlock. Then after sixty days I rack it into another empty five gallon carboy. Then after ninety more days I rack it again. Then after ninety more days I rack it again. That time if it's clear I let it sit ten days and rack it again and then I bottle it. I use Lalvin EC 1118 winemaker's yeast. I make a yeast starter (you can find the recipe online). I buy most of my winemaking supplies from Label Peelers.
Uh, no! Don't do this! Blending the berries chops up the seeds and releases unfavorable tannins and oils. Pressing is best. This way the seeds to leak into the juice.
@@SHredWorld The grapes have their own dedicated yeast on their skins. We call wild ferment or natural ferment. You don't really need artificial yeasts if your grapes are healthy unless you want to alter artificially some poor grapes. These wines on the skin or called 'skin contact' were at the origin of the creation of wine, whether red or whites.
Have never actually diluted must myself. I understand that adding water probably reduces flavor, but I don't know any other way to lower sugar levels. Your thoughts?
No! We do not enjoy all. We must do free labour for you, and you do have this wine video obsession, which makes thing0s pretty awkward. And you are not that smart, so you miss a lot of what is actually going on. Well, do have a good fall, this autumn.
