I just dropped the frames in to demonstrate the spin..They go in with the top to the outside just as you said .I have used this several times and it works great ..thanks for your comment
This is very cool! Like someone else posted, when it comes time to extract honey: you need to place the frames in there to where their top bars are pointing toward the outside of the can and not the center. This is because the way the bees build their comb, it IS slightly angled downward (you'll notice this when you get going with your bees) so that honey and larva can't just fall out.. Another thing that you may learn the hard way is that you won't ever need to spin the frames as fast as you had them going. Doing this will fling the wax comb (honey and all) completely off of the plastic foundation and it'll stick to the side wall of your extractor. So, rotate your frames so the top bars are the other way and start with a slow spin, and I think you'll have a great time! Thumbs up from me. [=
I like your device. I made a similar one which shows up next to yours on RU-vid. (Sporadic cleaner) I like yours better and plan to "reinvent my wheel"! After reading comments to you, I remember why I disabled comments to mine. People are so mean. Kudos to you for your thinking and keep up the good work!
People can be mean and others can be very kind. It would also remember that sticks and stones may break my bones but words will never harm me. And remember to conquer hate with love. Evil has nothing for love.
The spring months- October to December you'd want to check your colony for any conspicuous signs of AFB (common occurrence) in your brood boxes and if so, burn your brood immediately unless you have a DECA (Disease Elimination Conformity Authority) Cert that gives you special conditions, it is by law beekeepers finding AFB burn their hives and sterilise your used tools and PPE that have the contaminant by using hydrochloric acid (Janola bleach). There are other ways to sterilise your tools which is scorching them in your smoker using a gas flame. During this spring period, if your hive had no signs of AFB, Varroa (or mix of two) and other viruses. You strip down your hive and clear off any propolis, burrcomb, debris and look for any signs of swarming. If you see swarm cells get rid of them and reverse your boxes starting from top brood box to the bottom and bottom brood box to the top where you give the bees the idea they've already swarm. This is known as artificial swarming. You can also look into the bottom brood box to see if that's fulled and if your top brood box is struggling to be filled you can always pull frames from the bottom brood box out and into the top brood box as long as they're frames from the top box to go into the bottom. You can always use another trick which is baiting your swarm if it's too late to prevent them from swarming. You can use lemongrass oil to lure the swarm into a nuc or full depth box! Look up on RU-vid for more insight. In the spring period you'd also want to add your honey super on before the main honey flow (nectar flow) begins. A trick that bee hobbyists and keepers use that helps them to know when to add honey supers on their hive is to see fresh white burrcomb on the topbars of their frames also known as 'white waxing' bees make before they draw out their comb and need more room to festooned. Even if you grab your frames and shake them and see pollen. You'd know pollen was collected that day! Additional supers can be added once it's necessary otherwise supering up too early can cause disharmony and overwhelming stress for bees whom need to build their comb, wax and forage in a box that has all the beespace to give them. After your inspection, swarming prevention, supering and feeding if necessary. You won't need to disturb the hive for another three weeks. Good luck! From an aspiring beekeeper 🐝
the frames should be placed with the top of the frame towards the outside ..a honey gate drain has been placed at the bottom of the can to drain the honey ..start by spinning slow and increase speed as they drain..best done on a good hot day when the honey will flow better.. In this video i was spinning the frames fast to show the spin ...do not spin that fast or the comb may spin out of the frame ..I spun 4 frames and got about 18 lbs of honey (about a gallon and a half )..To clean up I just fill the barrel with water and put the spin basket in and spin for a while with the drill and drain and let dry
The can is galvanized and is steam cleaned ..and is bran-new ..the bike rims have been totally cleaned ..I have seen many extractors made of galvanized metal ..the rims are aluminum and are clean ..If I called them aluminum circles would you feel better
This is awesome ! How did you build the bottom bearing assembly - a sealed bearing press fit into some PVC assembly? And how did you fix the rims to the rod so they dont spin on the rod?
Have you any thoughts on harvesting honey from top bar hives? It requires that the entire comb be destroyed but there are too many methods to know which work best. It would be exceptional if you could improve on those methods. As you did here.
Hello... Can you tell me the complete list of the things that i need?? i dont know how to find the ones that goes in the bottom, the one who make it roll Thanks its great big mind
Concerned about the galvanized pale..I worked in a fab shop and we needed respirators when grinding, welding and plasma cutting galv pipe Bc of the toxicity and the potential for CANCER.
@patq33333, love your ingenuity! We have the cutest blue bees in our yard, any ideas on how to coax them into a new hive we are making for them? Also, ignore the haters and the trolls, you are making the world a better place for those that care for bees. Finally, do you have a complete list of parts you used? I was able to comb through the Q&A section to find more specifics, but I'm sure there are more that are obvious to you, but not so much to me. Thanks for your time!
Turn the frames so the top bar is toward the outside of the drum and the natural angle of the cells will empty better. The bees have the cells angled up when in the hive to keep the honey from draining out.
I addressed this long ago look below.I only just dropped them in for a demonstration of how it would spin.I did turn them the other way when full and they worked great .Also did it on a nice warm day ......thanks
a little concerned about the toxicity of the galvanized pail. aluminum, stainless steel, or food-grade plastic would be best and in some places might be the only legal options
also, if you're looking to sell your honey, you might not be able to use bicycle rims, either. great idea for home use only, but be careful once you start adding a price tag to your honey.
great job. however what is your source of energy that spins the garget. two, bearings normally have some sort of lubricant. are your bearings without any lubricant?
Bonjour GRAND BRAVO pour votre capacité à créer, vous êtes génial. Il faudrait donner des cours àmon mari, qui,lui, ne sait pas faire grand chose. Christiane KREMER France
I was thinking the galvanized would be an issue too but... “ The Food and Drug Association (FDA) has approved the use of galvanized steel for food preparation and conveyance for all applications with the exception of foods that have a high acid content, such as tomatoes, oranges, limes, and other fruits. The acid content in these foods will attack the zinc coating and cause accelerated corrosion. Many food products are stored on galvanized racks or in coolers with galvanized shelving.” ~AGA
Very cool idea but I wouldn't use galvanized as it is zinc plated. Stainless steel or a plastic barrel would be food safe. I would add a honey gate at the bottom.
honey is not stored in there it is there for about 20 minutes and it is poured into glass and it is washed and dried till next time .It is also washed before use
Hello Sir, First, I'd like to say that this is very smart and ingenious idea. It's amazing. But I do have a few questions, I believe you answered them, but I'd like to ask you more in depth about it. How were you able to remove all the grease from the bearings, the spokes, and the wheels? I ask, because I am an avid cyclist myself and i do know that no matter what wheels, bearings, or spokes ( any moving part of machines) of bike will come with either lube on it or grease. How did you successfully removed it to be able to use it in your extractor without contaminating your Honey? My apologies if I have made you repeat yourself. I am not doubting you in anyway, I am only trying to expand my knowledge on DIY projects as I am a New-Bee as a Beekerper. Thank you for taking your time in reading my comment.
the wheels are aluminum and I removed the wheel bearings and pressure washed the wheels and removed all but the necessary spokes. the threaded rod goes through the hole where the bearings used to be and a washer and bolt on each side to hold them. the bearing that the threaded rod goes into on the bottom and the top are sealed bearings .Good luck with the bees
As I said a few times already .I just dropped the frames in to show the spin.When I spin out honey the frames are in with the top facing the outside of the can \
Just showing how good the bearings work .With honey frames in I start slow and slowly increase speed as the honey flys out .Use a variable speed drill to spin.
all the materials are shown in the video ..some hard wood ,a couple bearings ,2 bicycle rims and a 30 gal galvanized garbage can ,some nuts and bolts .the center shaft is 3/8 threaded rod
