Thanks! Smog pump still kicking, when it dies I will try the dayton. Larry if you have the correct air / fuel mixture you will see nothing but heat fumes from stack. Amazes me how clean of a burn you can get from such a simple contraption.
Super heated steam was used during 1950's in Texas by US servicmen to run used fuel oil furnace on water line. Oil used to preheat fire pot and S.S. coil tubing + water to 1500 degrees. T fitting and extra valves mounted. When up to temperature, oil valve shut off. The resulting hydrogen and oxygen torch flame continues furnace running. 90 lbs pressure + 90lbs water lines with dual pumps and central motor with blower. U.S. patent application filed, but only resulted in final printing of 50% increase in efficiency with ordinary steam as only allowed to public. ( The change of high pressure to AMBIANT through tiny spray nozzel allowed for extreme vibration of vapor molecules that separated to gases,- at a much LOWER unusual high temperature. ) A much smaller demonstrator was built and shown to Senater in large wooden box with fire brick chamber and steel ring with holes- like coleman stove. Units have to be restarted on fuel oil.
By the way, I forgot to add..... Regular RED Kerosene are cheaper than Diesel. We get Kerosene to mixed with the Free Oil. We get Red Kerosene here at our Local Gas Station for $2.49 a Gallon (October 2017 Price). We mixed 1/2 Gallon to every 55 Gallon Tank we have and it's cheaper that way to thin things out than Diesel.
I like everything except the Blower Fan. You should bring the Air from outside in. Drill a hole in the wall and bring outside Air in. Whatever that Fan is sucking out CFM wise... That is what you are losing in Heat :///. It's like throwing Heat out the Chimney since you are sucking Warm Air from the Room aka your Work-Shop.
that's a good point. The heat out put makes that amount of heat loss unnoticeable, plus I did not want to drill yet another hole through my wall and with my set up it causes a small amount of fresh air to be drawn into the shop which is always good in that type of enviroment
Nice job! I'm using a smog pump off an old Cadillac with a small electric motor driving it. Makes good air but noisy. That blower your using seems quiet. Do you have a part # for it?
Do you have any idea why you get excessive black smoke when you open it up? I have pretty much the same setup. I increase oil flow and air and the flame is very aggressive. So is the smoke.
I get black smoke when i have my oil feed set to high, smoke is always a product of incomplete combustion, so if you have smoke you either have to much oil or not enough air
It seems to me too much air tries to blow out the fire which causes smoke. Less air works better for me, but I feel I should be able to crank it up. I see others online wide open with no smoke
Yes i had similar experiences. I found that you don't need a high velocity of air, like you said that just blows out the fire . You do however need a high volume, that is achieved by a larger diameter blower and delivery pipe, not a higher speed fan. basically if you want more heat which means a bigger fire you need to get more air in there somehow. with my current set up I can only run like half oil stream because my air delivery is restricted by the pipe diameter, if i needed more heat i could go to 1 1/2 pipe to match the outlet of the blower, thus using it's full potential.
I have the same fan/blower as you have. I have 2 inch pipe all the way into my stove with 3/8 copper fuel line through it. It starts and runs great for about 30 minutes, then it just dies out ??? UMO and the 3/8 fuel line is not clogged. The flue is new also. Not sure whats gong on, im new to this. Im burning in a stainless pan just slightly bigger than you are and it is in the bottom of a double 55 gallon wood stove kit. It gets good and hot but just always dies out no matter how i adjust fuel or air, kinda has me stumped too...
How much oil does it use now that you have your flow rate dialed in? Have you ever conected a 1gal jug and let it burn its self out to see how long it would go for? Thanks for the vid, I would love to replicate your setup some day!
+BillCosbyEatsBabies - Depend on your needs, as far as on my Test... If I stayed at 450F, it's close to about 1 Liter Per Hour. But if I go under about 350F... I can get almost 1-1/2 Hour through slow drips.
Things were going SO well, until you put a piece of plastic fuel line so close to the stove. I can't say I agree with it as it stands, getting it further away would be better, a glass/pyrex sight tube would be much better that close to the stove. I do like 2.0 fan and controller.
If he built it Semi-Permanent, then I am sure he can swing the Oil Drip Chamber out of the way and can still burn Wood :))). In this Video, he blocked the waste bin with Bricks which can easily removed :)))))
Hahahaha, I am back again..... Have you thought about Thermo Snap Disc and it can be your Best Friend for many projects including your Fans for Summer to cool your place down automatically? It will shut down your Fan On / Off easily by thermo. Save some of your Electricity, since those Thermo Disc are cheap and easy to install.
Dampers are open all the way, the more air you can get in the burn chamber the hotter the fire you can make. The natural draft of the heat rising up the flue sucks in air rather than pushing smoke out the vents.
Thanks I got mine set up like urs yesterday and still figuring it out problem I'm having is it will be going fine then go out and have to restart going to try shorter pot and different meter ing valve next
@@jasonscruggs986 how cold is the oil? I have to use a good bit of diesel (a couple cups) to get everything hot enough to stay going when starting. Heat or oil volume is normally the issue if it won't stay going sometimes both. There needs to be a constant pool of oil in the pot and enough heat to vaporize it so the fumes can burn... hope that helps
@@sheisillme thanks I'm still messing with it having hard time controlling my oil flow have two different types of gate valve s I need to find a needle valve really. What size bowl do you have?
+Wayne Goff - You are right, since he have High Ceiling. His Pipes should be longer to reclaimed as much Heat as possible. Also, I think he has to work with what he got, since some places required you to get a Permit before moving to another Location, cost more money ://. Plus, his insurance might not covered if they found out he modified the Wood Stove for other usage.
Honestly, this was a very low budget build. in retrospect running the chimney higher would have been ideal. However, that stove gets so hot you can feel the heat coming off it from 10' away... no need to have more heat in the room really
