I think RB mentions the oil pan bolts at about 8lbf ft. Here are some other torque specs associated with this job that I gathered. After applying these torque specs I can say that they felt legit. Subframe bolt rear of the front tires: 76lbf ft Support bracket bolt: 69lbf ft Subframe bolt front of the tires: 76lbf ft Support bracket bolt: 40lbf ft Vertical subframe bolt near the middle of the tire is 33lbf ft Right side Engine Mount Top Bolt: 47lbf ft Front and Rear Engine mount Bolt: 40lbf ft Front and Rear Engine mount Bracket nuts: 58lbf ft
I just love how y’all say DIY videos but then bust out with a huge lift and other things that we would’nt have in a house. In other words this is a video of what an actual mechanic at a shop would do. Thanks.
I consider myself a good home mechanic but this is too involved for my old jalopy...will keep topping off the oil until I part ways. Appreciate the video.
Didn't work for me and I have a hoist. I decided to pull the pan so I could replace the oil pump chain , gear, guide, and tensioner while I was replacing the timing chain. In the end, I loosened all of the subframe bolts and pulled the passenger side of the subframe down with a ratchet strap. After I did that, the oil pan almost fell right off. Still a good video. Very detailed and much appreciated.
Thanks for the video. I removed the oil pan from a 2013 Honda Accord but also needed to remove many if not more of the bolts from the black support brace to get it out. Unfortunately, I broke the oil pump tensioner (hanging from the engine in the oil pan on the upper front passenger side) and needed to remove the timing panel to replace it. The lesson I learned is not to try to pry the oil pan out with a crowbar. The bolts from the black support brace need to be removed or loosened to create space.
Yes never pry, i use a putty knife in many uses, pulling door panels, etc. There is a bit of prying but its dispersed better, and easy to just work it all round.
Hey man @Rb the Mechanic Thanks for this video. I really appreciate it. I am going to replace my Oil pan on my 2005 honda accord 2.4L and have been looking for an in-depth video about the process for weeks and just came across your video. I am going to attempt the process this weekend. The car has been parked for a week after I drained the oil. My last oil change(189k) I did a while ago 3 years the guys at the dealership mess up the threads on the oil pan. I just realized the problem this year when I took it back to them to change the oil and they told me they couldn't change the oil because the oil bolt couldn't come out and that I need a new pan ( cost $880). Anyway, I am going to replace the pan myself. Thanks for the man.
RB The Mechanic Yep I got hondabond. Just one tube. Do I need two? Also I don’t have pry bar. Do I really need the pry bar to work that subframe like you did in the video. is it good to use Honda bond with a regular oil gasket? Lastly how can I hold that subframe in place when I jack upturn engine? I have only one jack and two stands the car is already on . I will be doing this in the parking lot . 😩👨🏿💻😩
@@daniellebron6046 it would be best with lift that I wouldn’t say for sure the whole job was like 2-3 hours and then 45mins to hour or 2 hours let the dealer dry
@RB The Mechanic So I was able to do the job with a couple of jack stands and a jack to hold the engine. Was definitely a beast to do without a lift but it can be done. I had bought a fel pro gasket but decided to go with the hondabond instead. Thanks for the video.
@@daniellebron6046if you're doing it on the ground without a lift, jack the car up as high as you can get it off the ground and place the vehicle on jack stands, it took me almost a full day to complete it because of the weather conditions but it's manageable, the hardest part is going to be lowering the subframe but it doesn't need to be dropped all the way down, just enough to get the oil pan removed.
Greeting from Malaysia. Thanks for video. Very helpful. Just changed oil pump chain tensioner on my JDM Honda odyssey. Need removal the oil pan. Different model but same engine and layout.
The VTC actuator is inside of the engine on the intake camshaft sprocket. There is the solenoid on the side of the engine, a pressure switch and spool valve on the rear, and a VTC mesh on the front.
Darn. I thought the oil pan would be completely accessible without removing anything around it. I have a stripped drain bolt (according to the mechanic I go to) so there's a minor leak. Funny thing is his shop is where I have been getting my oil changes done for the past I dunno how many years so I asked them, why did you strip it? 😆😆 They didn't seem amused but it was an honest question. At any rate, I was thinking this could have been a job I could take on myself since an oil pan can be found for less than $50. Seeing this vid now, I will consider another shop to take it to.
My mecanic told me i dont need a gasket when replacing the pan..he told me it doesnnt come with gasket from factory....i ordered a pan gasket ,pan,and liquid gasket. Do i need gasket n lquid gasket? Use bolth or what one should use..cause it cost $17 for gasket $17 for lquid gasket n $40 for pan....what should i have installed? Thanks rob. Love your videos. Learned so much from you
Hi RB, I need to replace the oil pressure sensor on my 2004 Civic si. What socket size should I be using to replace it? Thanks in advance for your time.
This job doesn't look like a DIY unless you have a shop with a car hoist and other dedicated tools. You can show us how but not many of us will be able to do this. The oil pan the previous owner of my 2006 2.4 stripped the original pan nut and now it leaks oil. Im gonna have my mechanic replace the pan and he will change the oil too in it at the same time. Thanks for showing us anyway.
Love when people say easy DIY and then proceed to show you a video where you’re gonna need a lift to do the job lol, and the saying ‘this is not an easy job’ but put easy in the title 😂
In other when u go to mechanic he can’t tell u that u need to take out the engine because it’s not that hard also he can’t tell u the frame needs to come down it only need 2-3 inches clearance
I drive mine onto ramps, then jacked up passenger side, placed jack stand so I could remove passenger front wheel and have the same access he does in the video. It’s diy, it is a bitch though
Is all the extra bolt taken off really necessary 🤔😫 cuz im tryn to replace mine all bcuz of the stupid bolt is stripped and i have temporarily plug in there 🤦🏻♀️ welp if this how is it to take it off ion even gunna chance it ill just take it to a shop 🥺... Thank u for the video tho now ill know how the work is done 👍🏻
Hey. Do you know how to replace the shift solenoid on this same vehicle? I’ve been looking everywhere and can’t find a diagram of its location. I came across your video because a forum said that the oil pan needed to be taken out. Do you happened to know anything about that?
Have you ever changed the oil pan gasket on an 09’ accord? I have mine taken lose right now but cannot get it out. I am hoping I do not have to move the motor like you did in this video.
A bit late on this, and haven't finished the video but the gasket on 8th generation Accords, 2008-2012 have a liquid gasket. So like Hondabond, so you'd have to slice into the space between the pan and motor and pop it off after the bolts are gone.
Great video and great job! Honda defiantly f***d us up with that subframe, I had to remove it completely out to replace the transmission it was horrible lol and now I have to lower the same subframe for the oil pan .. thanks Honda
is the manual transmission a different process, i have a 5 speed 2004, and it took me and my coworkers a good couple hours to get it out, i had to un mount the transmission and jack it up to create space, that along with the pry bar method you used got it out
hello, I have a question its that the oil pump ? that goes inside the oil pan. because my brother got 03 honda accord 2.4l engine in it. and the mechanic said that the oil pump was bad but then he said the power steering pump was bad and I think I ordered the wrong oil pump wich I'm going to return and get my money back.
Is it expensive to get the oil pan replaced because I went to a local shop and they told me it’s going to be $650 to replace it and an oil change $650. I thought that was to expensive.
@@RBTheMechanic the bolt started stripping kinda. But it isn’t stripped yet. I got some bolt extractor sockets and another extension, the other two are breaking. This bolt isn’t budging.
Thank you for this video. I guess it will help me a lot because my pan looks just like this one and I already have a new one. But I didn't want to replace it not knowing the exact procedure. After seeing this video I think I'll manage :) Thanks again.
The reason people/companies hire 'engineers' or designers is to avoid such a complicated repair for such a simple and basic EXPECTED repair/maintenance. It's not like this is the first oil-pan to rust and need replacing after 100+ years of auto-making. The one's responsible for such a design-flaw should have their names put on a world-wide wall of shame and they should be graded and pay-rate fixed according to their stupidity.
Same for me . I was thinking was going to be a 20 min job , and now I'm stuck at home for weeks with my honda part's all over regretting starting a mission impossible for a wanna be mechanic
Gonna be honest, I Flexseal that hole and duck tape over it and keep driving. Cant fork out the $1000 to fix this at the mechanic when the car is only worth 2k
Do you think it’s easier to replace the oil pan with the automatic transmission of? My transmission will get rebuilt by a specialised shop and I want to ask them to do the oil pan too.
RB I want to bring you my 2007 Honda Accord to fix what my mechanic did... he used a gasket instead of Honda bond. Where are you located? Thanks in advance!
@@RBTheMechanic thanks bro! Here in Brazil not too many people are reliable for this job, even though hondas are apparently straightforward cars to work on. I am trying to avoid doing it at the dealership , they charge waay too much, and the parts are dollarized too, so any simple maintenance can become unfeasible cost-wise
Yes, the transmission mounts are on the driver side. There is one on top of the transmission and two under the transmission. If you remove them, you can get more clearance. Per the OEM manual you're pretty much supposed to remove all the engine and transmission mount bolts that attach the engine/transmission to the subframe, which is what he did in the first part of the video (minus the transmission mounts). Then, the book says to lift the engine about 6 inches and that should be enough clearance. I have seen other videos where the guys lower the subframe. So you have two options, lift the engine and transmission, or lower the subframe.
When your loosening up the subframe do you just hold the engine in place right? This is my first time ever doing something like this with the engine and I don’t want to mess up anything. Thank you in advance.
Great video but I've read a bunch of the comments. One comment u answered said 8.7 ft lbs of torque, one said 18 ft lbs of torque and one said 10 ft lbs of torque? Can u please verify what the torque should b for the oil pan bolts. Thanks man.
Judith Grimes they r had because they r stuck and the honda bond dealer is jamming them but the torque for this accord was 10ft lb make sure u do it in sequence... please subscribe also subscribe to my other channel I have great videos comming out and I got very good videos comming out that will blast the channel to very famously level and I sure will appreciate my subscribers here’s a linkru-vid.com/show-UCvqsPzqAZfVv_gjBYUFqNdg
Watch the video at 20:09 did u remove that bolt and watch at 20min time frame 4 bolts on frame plus the lil bracket did u remove the bracket on the engine mounts and the 4mm bolt ? The front and back engine mount had bracket held in by 2 17mm nuts and then 14mm bolt goes through the mount head to engine
Off topic, but with this question & prolong problems: 2005 CRV w/P2646, when VTEC Solenoid, VTC Screen Filter & Mobil I/Filter installed didn't help . What is the true fix?
angelisone I check on my ALLDATA the process is complicated you have to remove the pressure switch check the pressure with pressure tested tool I would replace it and if u have like over 100k milages try to put thicker oil some times it could be weak oil pump but not common I have 2004 accord I use 10w40 motor craft oil very good oil I love it
@@RBTheMechanic One the 2005 CR-V with that Check Engine Code P2646. A complete brand new VTEC Solenoid, VTC Screen Filter, Oil Pressure Switch, Mobil 1 Extended Oil Filter, Mobil 1 10w-20 (10w-30 or 10w-40 didn't help), Full Synthetic, Valve Cover & top engine cams/valves/lifters gears cleaned, Valve Cover Gasket, Inlet Tubes, 10mm Gasket Bolts, Belt Tensioner, Belt have been replaced. CR-V has 322,511 km, still getting P2646 after three weeks. Do you think the Oil Pump (does it has a filter/o-ring) is bad? Removing the oil pump is no fun because it is chain driven.
thank you.. if u ever need help with anything else please message me and don't forget to subscribe also please subscribe to my other channel here is a link to the channel ru-vid.com/show-UCvqsPzqAZfVv_gjBYUFqNdg
So, clean the gasket surface really well, yet I see leftover sealant on there, and wipe all the oil off, yet you installed the new gasket right over top of a fat oil drip. Not to mention lifting the engine with a pry bar, (on the oil pan gasket surface!).
@@RBTheMechanic That's great, my point still stands. This is a $500 job, all that labor and a tube of sealant, I wouldn't want to take the chance of having it leak again.
@@dwest713 ok yeah I understand stand ur point… but I have faith in this sealer works like magic I have had bad luck with using gaskets so I guess people who are reading can avoids these mistakes.
Hi and thanks for the video....i have a 2000 Honda accord 4 cyclinder got oil leak...went to AutoZone and they had a gasket so I thought I needed one because the guy said how can we help you...i said I have an oil leak on the oil pan..get home take oil pan off and the car had no gasket so now I am confused I have had the car for 8 years no leaks till 3 weeks ago...so I cleaned top and bottom put gasket on a little bit of blue gasket seal and gasket maker little tube I bought at AutoZone hand tightened all bolts and snugged...shit leaks gasket broke...bought another gasket this one did not break but leaks still..guess I have to not use the gasket at all...right
@@RBTheMechanic yes it does but does it need a gasket it did not have one for 8 years I just went to AutoZone told the guy I had an oil leak at the oil pan he said oh you need a new gasket so I got shit broke bought the other more expensive gasket shit did not break but it still leaks from the same place
KangoKid Kidd usually the round part dosent sit propperly but why don’t u see if it’s leaking from main crank seal it might not be the gasket it’s common leak on the main crank seal on these engines
@@RBTheMechanic okay will do....i will check tomorrow the crank seal but man I see it coming from the oil pan maybe I was so frustrated that I may have not realized it could be coming from the seal...but I will have to take timing cover and belt off jack car off take off driver side tire and valve cover off....
@@RBTheMechanic I just got it done undid side mounts tranny mounts but what’s cruscial if doing it on ground no lift u have to jack the motor until it stops then pry down on crossmemeber to seperate other motor mounts that are impossible to get to without removing a ton of other things
How long does it need to dry before putting it back on and tork to what 8 pounds..so snug tight the nuts for one hour then tork to 8 pounds...okay thanks...do I have to tork or just tightened them up but not too tight...tork wrench cost like 50 bucks..
Jesus christ all this just for an oil pan. I love my honda but damn. I'm doing an oil pan gasket,reseal on timing cover,rack and pinon,power steering pump,new tensioner billet aluminum pulleys and belt.and front main seal. It's gonna be a long week.and my driverside mount is shot so I might as well replace all 3 of them since I'm gonna be unbolting them anyway
Im working on an 05 tsx and I wasnt able to get the bolts in the front and back of the engine but i got all the other ones underneath near the radiator and near the passenger tire and i didnt have a pry bar but i found an axe so i put that bitch underneath the belt and lifted that hoe and it came off. The set up was slightly different but the same for the most part
I have a 4cyl Honda Accord 2003 and it's leaking oil from this pan. Can you give me an idea how much would this job cost? Surely the pan doesn't need replacement but the rubber sealer around it? or both? Can we buy parts at auto parts and take to mechanic to save money?
What am i looking at with the pan off? I think that would be better to explain than saying " im not gonna make a video of me cleaning off the whole pan", then proceeds to show the cleaning. Like cmon your video is better on mute.
