Wish YT would have shown this when I was searching last week. Ended buying the whole arm. At least I know what to do when I tackle the job on the other side in a couple of weeks.
You can buy threaded rod almost any where Home Depot Amazon True value most Mom & Pop hardware stores will have Threaded rods for sale in common size thread pitch 1/4 3/8 & 1/2 - 13 threaded rod then cut to length. Great Video I to bought another set of control arm, but I kept my old set. Will definitely use this method with the bushings I could install.
This idea for sure will be successfully worked on wheel bearing too, if selecting the right receiver & pusher parts .Thanks so much to show us a real example .
Great video. Unfortunately up north too much rust on the bushing metal ring. So we had to pull entire arm off and use family press. Thanks for your assistance.
5:45 - “Probably the HARDEST thing to find. Is a, I believe it’s an 8 inch, but maybe it’s 9 inch”. Well folks… believe it or not but that is the very last thing my Tinder date said to me right after she invited me up to her apartment last night… and then I ran out as fast as I can!!! 😂😂😂
Very nice DIY compliance bushing tool. Good job! I did the bushing with Schley Products 68100 (cost around $150), which was based on the same idea. For rust belt cars, use a C-clamp ball joint press will save the threads of the central bolt, especially during removal.
Jason, living its entire life in the arid desert climate of Southern California helps considerably as there is very little to no rust. That said, the rust-belt-wrenches know all too well the benefits of soaking parts in a quality penetrating oil and heat when servicing their cars. When I lived in the mid-west I would soak such parts in Liquid Wrench for several days before doing the work, which helped a lot. Good luck to you rust-belt DIYers on this simplified method. The ride is noticeably better!
Great video. Envy you guys where cars don't get a steady diet of salt. Undoing fastener on my '07, especially suspension components, is always a struggle.
Components and Sources: 2 1/8" Job Smart Socket from Tractor Supply: www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/jobsmart-3-4i-in-drive-2-1-8-in-socket?cm_vc=-10005 3 inch galvanized pipe cap which you will need to drill a ~5/8" hole in the dead center (not the one I used but one found on Amazon): www.amazon.com/Cap-NPT-Galvanized-Malleable-Iron/dp/B01LWE75CX/ref=sr_1_3?crid=M87OVJNDR9RB&keywords=3%2Bin%2Bgalvanized%2Bpipe%2Bcap&qid=1654214515&sprefix=3%2Bin%2Bgalvanized%2B%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-3&th=1 1 Grade 5 or 8 bolt: 8" x 1/2" coarse thread 2 Grade 5 or 8 nuts: 1/2" with matching coarse thread 6-8 matching Grade 5 or 8 washers 2-3 Square Bearing Plates with 1/2" bolt hole, like these from Home Depot: www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-BP-3-in-x-3-in-Bearing-Plate-with-1-2-in-Bolt-Dia-BP-1-2-3/204842277
I have a 2016 Honda Odyssey. Are these the same parts (self made press) I would use to do what you do .... push out the bad bushing and install a new one ?
@@PlayaBluffHotelBocas The process would be the same however, I am not sure of the size of the Odyssey bushing, so can't confirm fitment of the socket and pipe cap I used. Suggest you do what I did, buy a bushing (even if a cheap one at a local auto parts store, which can return if not used) and use it for sizing a socket for pushing which catches the exterior ring of the bushing but just a bit smaller in diameter so it can push the bushing out from the control arm.
Bought everything minus the pipe cover and socket as I used my ball joint remover cups which fit same and did not work for me. Kept on bending the square spacers and galvanized bolt even bent
Hi GR, suggest a hardened bolt grade 5 or even 8 as there is lots of tension required. Also, suggest soaking the bushing perimeter in penetrating fluid repeatedly in advance to loosen rust, etc. Else, heat will be your friend to help.
You certainly can, if you have one or use the tool loaner program at your local auto parts retailer. I don't have one and for a lot less money made it myself. Either way, the job is done and this method leaves the control arm in the car which is less work in the long run.
@@johnh9507 Yes they do, however all the LOANER sets I looked at from multiple parts stores didn't have the right size for pressing out the bushing. So I went this route.
@@galco9836 i got two sets, one with the c clamp and another with more cups, i found one with within .005 and put a hose clamp around it and put the the new bushing in it to help like another hand, i did the job for $8 with moog blue yellow box bushings from ebay
@@johnh9507 Please post details on the kit you used on the compliance bushing as that would help others. Have you done the lower ball joints? Those require a special designed cup as well. Thx
Agree most remove the entire control arm but it's more work and you put at risk upper and lower ball joints, especially their boots in the extraction process. Don't ask how I know, luckily Honda sells replacement boots for the long lasting original, high priced and better ball joints. This method is faster, even if it's awkward sitting on your garage floor. Cheers! Galco
@@galco9836 makes total sense. the Acura I just did was not fun, lower ball joint replacement and my press kit didn't fit or the compliance bushing so luckily my mechanic lives behind the and pressed out the ball joint and I just put a new control arm out but after your method I think I'll do the arm I took out and sell it. Yeah, not having a lift is a real pain for us diy
If you take out the entire lower control arm, then you would need a bench press to hold on to it while you pry the thing out....in situ the car is holding it for you....you can do the same with pressing out the ball joint and the bearing...
