I agree. Super helpful and thank you for the video man. I was scared at first to even touch my engine but watching your videos man made me just a tad more confident in doing it myself and saving $700
Danger Danger!! Step Missing !! After the Cam-Cradle goes on and Before you spin the engine over: Release The Cam Tensioner Spring... Ask me how I know: Jumped timing which means pulling the cradle and re-timing the engine.
Thanks for making a video about the shimming process!! The check never bugged me but the moving the cams piece for the adjustment was a bit of a mystery. Motivation today to finish the old R1.
one of the cam cap bolts snapped when i did this but came out of the head in one piece. It broke in half in my hand. Bike runs great with some new bolts!
The chain that the tensioner takes up is below the sprockets and if it's timed either way, if the tension is on the chain, it wouldn't be pulling on the cam or flexing the cam because a it's seated and it's not rotating the chains on a sprocket. it's not like the chains pulling or rotating the sprocket via the chain tensioner it's just taking up the slack behind the plastic guard
decent video and passion to legendary model! Have one of those as well, but one issue is driving me mad -> jerky on revs up to 3000. Changed spark plugs + ignition coils, cleaned tank, filters but still same... nobody knows what`s the problem, pity :/
Well only 2 more things left to check the injectors or the vacuum tubeing of the throttle body, maybe the fuel injectors don't have a nice even spray that's why is Jerry to 3000rpm or there is a leak on one of the vacuum tubes messing up the fuel/air mixture. Good luck 😀👍
@@AlbesADV appreciate for a reply and hints! took out carb, cleaned it, did same with injectors (applied 10v and used spray can), mist looks good to me. Rechecked - replaced vacuum tubes, put everything together and to my disappointment no change :/ Works not too bad when cold, but total rubbish when warms up... With a water trick to exhaust pipe figured out that cylinder 4 is the problematic one as colder then others. Any more hints bud?? i searched whole internet, there are tons of people having similar issue with that model, but no one knows what`s wrong :/
If cylinder 4 is colder and and you have a trickle of water coming from the exhaust, maybe, when the coolant gets to temperature and pressure increases, the coolant is somehow sipping into cylinder 4, that would explain the jerkiness below 3000 rpm since, maybe, above 3000 there is enough flow to negate the effects of the small amount of coolant in the cylinder, man i wish I could take a look, good luck 👍
@@AlbesADV No water comes out from the main exhaust whatsoever, spark plug is darker (soot situation) but dry. Could a cracked valve give such a fault?
The concept is the same but the tolerances change engine to engine. If you find a maintenance manual, between that and my video you should be able to get it done 👍
How come you have to loosen the chain tensioner when checking the clearances the cam covers are down as far as I'll go. The cams aren't gonna flex. I don't see why tension on the cam chain on the sprockets would have anything to do with the lobes when they're all seated.
If you are only checking the clearance, you are right , there is no need to loosen the chain. The Honda manual assumes some adjustments will be made, therefore requiring to loosen the chain. In my case, I just don't want to forget about it 😅
@@AlbesADV oooooo ok that makes sense. I was wondering if it was just like a prerequisite to adjusting like a step one make sure you undo this so you don't bend anything
Why do you have to loose the cam chain to measure ? I do understand that it is necessary to take the cams out. But what happens if you do not loose the chain tensioner to check the valve gap??
Hi, in theory it shouldn't matter, I did it that way because the maintenance manual said so, but the Manual also assumes you are going to remove the cams. Or maybe if the chain is tensioned my affect the measurements because it applies downward force on the cams, we are talking about fractions of a millimeter after all
I really hope you see this! Do you loosen the cam chain tensioner before you check the clearances and rotate the engine? Is it ok to turn the motor with the chain loose?
Hi, no, keep the chain tensioned when you check the clearances. It's OK to turn the motor whith the chain loose only if you do it slowly and pay attention not to skip cam sprocket theeth . 👍
I’m confused… you only lined up T mark and the EX mark checked intake valves 1 & 3 then rotate ignition pulse line upward to check exhaust 2 & 4. Then turn the crankcase back to align the T mark where it would be initially back check cylinder 1 & 3 intake but without moving the cam chain still on exhaust side then move the index mark vertical to check 1 & 3 exhaust valves. Is IN and EX supposed to be lined up for intake and exhaust whichever you are checking?
Hi, the IN mark is on the intake side gear, it's not visible on the camera because it's behind the frame and I has to use a little mirror like those dentist mirrors. Is you are just checking the valve clearance when you align the EX mark on the forward cam the IN mark of the rear cam should be aligned as well, if you are doing a full rebuild from scratch then you have to align them individually when you install the distribution chain
You didn’t tell us which way to turn the tool for the CCT, and now my chain is too tight to put my cams back in and I can’t get the damn CCT off. What do I do
The tool for the CCT only turns one way, if you can't use the CCT tool the only other way is to remove the whole CCT from the engine, are the bolts stripped? Why can't you get it off?
@@AlbesADV Hey buddy. Can you help me further? I changed spark plugs at sc50 and adjusted the valves. I did not remove the camshafts, they were always on the timing chain, had only put them to the side. Now my SC50 won't start. It sounds like the spark plugs ignite the gasoline but maybe in the wrong order? Or could the engine times have changed? Had looked at the time, IN and EX marking were correct. Do the ignition sinks have an order? You can't swap the plugs of spark plugs, the wiring harness lies the way you have to connect it. Do you have a suggestion for me on how to proceed now? I made a short video on my channel. In the background, the engine runs from the car, due to weak battery on the sc50. Thanks.
I have noticed the following. When you open the throttle valves you see the following: Cylinder 4, a valve always stays a little open. Cylinders 1 and 2, valves are closed but light air bubbles come through, so they are also leaking. I don't understand before that's coming. When I put in the shims and turned the engine 2-3 times by hand, I measured the valve clearance again. At the entrance it was 0.16 times 0.15. But if the valves suddenly do not close, then the valve clearance would have to go to zero or minus? 🧐
