This sensor came loose in my civic, luckily no slipping but I found a pool of fluid on the driveway and found this video as a result of it, how do you undo this sensor? Update: I tore down the civic that day but it ended up being a good thing, I took off the underpan (which was missing several clips) as well as the fender liners (which were missing several clips) and finally got the the sensor and tightened it and used blue loctite. Instead of paying $3 per clip from Honda I went to harbour freight and bought a kit (which were all better that oem) and replaced the missing clips as well as some more. Topped transmission fluid up and good to go
Thanks this was my solution omg. I was worried about cost on a transmission. Etc so this worked and fixed it with a 27 socket ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Anyone who has this problem on their gen 2 honda cvt transmisson. Check your vent tube cap. It has a hole that gets clogged up and the transmission is unable to release pressure thus causing the pressure sensor to come loose. There are multiple videos on youtube about how to access and clean the vent tube cap on cvt honda trans. When you clean the cap install the cap back where the hole is facing the firewall instead of the rad fans. I believe the fan blowing air against the breather cap is the reason why it cloggs up. Cheers
First I tightened it it didn’t work now I replaced the part, it still didn’t work… I found out if I pull up on the part it’ll just get loose again and now I’m back to square one
Update.....from last week on this the sensor is known to back out..... it will take a 1- 1/16 inch close end wrench to fit the sensor or a 27mm you can tight it up from outside the car turn the tires to the left and remove the plastic tabs and gain access then remove the wires then put the close end of the wrench on to it, tight it up snugly.... you don't have room for a deep well socket and normal racket from uptop where the battery is or from the underside or the side so wrench is the best option i found......afterwards you will want to do a transmission fluid flush.... cheaper to do yourself.... Honda is almost $400 for a fluid flush.... on Amazon the fluid is $17 a quart....it says you will need 4 quarts but suggest 5 to have a little extra as precaution and to replace the 2 crush washers 1 for the drain plug and 1 for the fill plug.... at honda the crush washer are about $16 dollars..... if you need to replace the pressure sensor that backed out honda charges $118 -120 for the sensor and $10 for the 10mm crush washer that it uses..... Amazon or rock auto the prssure sensor is $45... oh and advance auto wanted $120 for the same sensor.....little advice put telfon tape or purple or blue lock tight on the treads to prevent it from backing out....otherwise you will risk stripping out the threads in the hole or it backing out again My local honda was going to charge me almost $900 total for a transmission fluid flush, a fluid diagnostic of $89, and to replace the same sensor..... I did it myself for about $120 Easiest thing I could do buy the crush washers from honda directly..... buy sensor from Amazon and the transmission fluid and do everything myself took maybe 3 hrs... only because I just had knee surgery back in December so getting up and down is a pain.... If you don't change the fluid or do a flush if your unlucky you will not have any power/torque.....and the car will drive like sh!t.....my wife car I had to get a almost 4k rpm to go up basic ramps....on the ground Got lucky no metal shavings on the drain plug magnet and after the flush and new sensor car drives like new.... Oh and honda civic you don't have dip stick to check your transmission fluid level... you have to remove the Fill bolt and have the car leveled and add fluid until it comes out the hole on the front of the transmission....best way to add fluid, drain the old out reinstall the drain plug.... remove the rubber cap on top of the transmission with the metal hook sticking out of it that is known to pop off, that cap online is $11 honda dealership $22 and add the fluid from up there until you see it come out the Fill hole, then lightly install the fill bolt, turn car on and put the car slowly into every gear yes eveb 1st and 2nd gear or s and l for like 5 sec while holding the brakes put back into park and repeat the gear shift into every gear pausing again then turn the car off remove fill bolt, add additional fluid until it comes out the hole and the install the bolt with new crush washer snug. The 10mm crush washer / gasket on the sensor part number from honda is. 90471-59c-000 $9.99 Drain plug crush washer part # is 94109-20000 washer, drain (20mm) $1.21 Fill bolt crush washer is Px4 22/23mm $3.95 Sensor, oil pressure part # 28660-r9L-003 $118.08 Unfortunately the new sensor from Amazon did not come with the 10mm crush washer fyi....and it was not listed on rockauto either but a cross reference search of the part number or a good part store will have some in stock...I'm sure you can find it for under $10 Hope this helps save you some money...
Just happened to my 9th gen Accord CVT. I wish I had found this video before all my transmission fluid leaked out and the car shit the bed on an incline. Spent time troubleshooting it and touched the same sensor (accord has two sensors plugged here) and it was loose. Spent a hellava lot of time getting my battery plate out so I could properly reach the sensor with tools to tighten it down. The angle and space from below isn't enough to get a tool in there to properly tighten it. Haynes manual doesn't mention specific torque, just says replace washer when replacing the sensor. Haynes manual calls it a 'driven pulley pressure sensor,' FYI parts shops will call it something else. Haynes manual calls the washer a 'sensor sealing washer.' Now I gotta worry about how much damage was done to my transmission... FML
Update.....from last week on this the sensor is known to back out..... it will take a 1- 1/16 inch close end wrench to fit the sensor or a 27mm you can tight it up from outside the car turn the tires to the left and remove the plastic tabs and gain access then remove the wires then put the close end of the wrench on to it, tight it up snugly.... you don't have room for a deep well socket and normal racket from uptop where the battery is or from the underside or the side so wrench is the best option i found......afterwards you will want to do a transmission fluid flush.... cheaper to do yourself.... Honda is almost $400 for a fluid flush.... on Amazon the fluid is $17 a quart....it says you will need 4 quarts but suggest 5 to have a little extra as precaution and to replace the 2 crush washers 1 for the drain plug and 1 for the fill plug.... at honda the crush washer are about $16 dollars..... if you need to replace the pressure sensor that backed out honda charges $118 -120 for the sensor and $10 for the 10mm crush washer that it uses..... Amazon or rock auto the prssure sensor is $45... oh and advance auto wanted $120 for the same sensor.....little advice put telfon tape or purple or blue lock tight on the treads to prevent it from backing out....otherwise you will risk stripping out the threads in the hole or it backing out again My local honda was going to charge me almost $900 total for a transmission fluid flush, a fluid diagnostic of $89, and to replace the same sensor..... I did it myself for about $120 Easiest thing I could do buy the crush washers from honda directly..... buy sensor from Amazon and the transmission fluid and do everything myself took maybe 3 hrs... only because I just had knee surgery back in December so getting up and down is a pain.... If you don't change the fluid or do a flush if your unlucky you will not have any power/torque.....and the car will drive like sh!t.....my wife car I had to get a almost 4k rpm to go up basic ramps....on the ground Got lucky no metal shavings on the drain plug magnet and after the flush and new sensor car drives like new.... Oh and honda civic you don't have dip stick to check your transmission fluid level... you have to remove the Fill bolt and have the car leveled and add fluid until it comes out the hole on the front of the transmission....best way to add fluid, drain the old out reinstall the drain plug.... remove the rubber cap on top of the transmission with the metal hook sticking out of it that is known to pop off, that cap online is $11 honda dealership $22 and add the fluid from up there until you see it come out the Fill hole, then lightly install the fill bolt, turn car on and put the car slowly into every gear yes eveb 1st and 2nd gear or s and l for like 5 sec while holding the brakes put back into park and repeat the gear shift into every gear pausing again then turn the car off remove fill bolt, add additional fluid until it comes out the hole and the install the bolt with new crush washer snug. The 10mm crush washer / gasket on the sensor part number from honda is. 90471-59c-000 $9.99 Drain plug crush washer part # is 94109-20000 washer, drain (20mm) $1.21 Fill bolt crush washer is Px4 22/23mm $3.95 Sensor, oil pressure part # 28660-r9L-003 $118.08 Unfortunately the new sensor from Amazon did not come with the 10mm crush washer fyi....and it was not listed on rockauto either but a cross reference search of the part number or a good part store will have some in stock...I'm sure you can find it for under $10 Hope this helps save you some money...
@@1devilD thank you for the part numbers and detailed explanation for fixing this problem. One thing I've discovered is the rubber CVT fill plug pops out usually because the breather tube gets clogged, and that was the case for me. The breather tube/cap is located further left of the fill plug, a bit hidden under some things. It's very tiny and you can usually only fit one hand in to get it out. The part number for that is 21396-P20-000, but you can usually stick something in the hole to clean it out and don't need to replace it. After cleaning it I put it back on facing towards the driver side tire, as opposed to the default at the fans as I believe the fans push more debris in there. Thank you again, appreciate it!
SMFH! 😂😂😂 Is that what those stains are all over the ground wherever I parked it for the LAST YEAR+!!! Common sense is NOT so common in the real world. But that's what pays my bills! Stupid or Lazy folks have a purpose in life too I guess then? Without dummies we'd probably have a tough time finding broken things in our world!?!? That's a pretty expensive Duh!!! Not only destroyed the metal belt, but every other moving part inside the CVT. Kind of weird for a CVT type transmission that uses Oil, because they were originally designed for dry use and a rubber belt Rather than a metal belt. The problem is with the wear rates and the rubber belt, because of so many HP and weight of the vehicles potential, they had to return to the drawing boards on the basic principles of the CVT. Ripped that all up and thrown away with, they redesigned the entire system except for the Constant Variable Pitching Pulleys. They added a hydraulic driven Torque converter from a Automatic transmission. This was fine, as is the metal belt. The bottom line is these transmissions have a limited life expectancy due to the Normally wearing parts, AKA the belt and pulleys are not meant to last forever. They're constantly wearing as the gear ratios change, which is Always or (Constantly)! The hydraulic system, pump and fluid is to cool, lube and remove the slipping aspects or neutral aspect of the original CVT which used centrifugal force or weights to squeeze on the original rubber belts to start the engagement process from idle/neutral to movement of the wheels. This way you aren't adding additional wear and tear to the already critically under performing parts! That aspect was a great improvement. What really screwed up these transmissions was the General Publics Big stupid mouths! Complaining that they don't feel right driving these cars with a CVT!? Really! These Retards of society unfortunately have very big fingers and mouths to complain that much to all these auto manufacturers that these new fangled transmissions don't shift!??!?!? Yes Really! They're main complaint was that they felt (No Shift Points)??? FUKTARDs I guess have 0-ZERO CLUES to what they're paying 25-35-45+++K for that a CVT Does Not have any shift Points or (gears) like the tards call it. No technically there are no official shifting points to speak of on a CVT being constantly Variable pitching sheaths (Pulleys) which are always changing their aspect ratios depending upon power and load demands! This is how they work! Originally I mean! Until the auto manufacturers went back and re-designed the new hydraulically driven CVT Torque converter system. Now the finally ironed out most the bugs in the first generations. They went and changed everything yet again! They somehow designed these Gen 2 CVTs to have a false shift point by holding the Pulleys back from them constantly moving in or out. This simulation is the dumbest thing I've ever seen and heard of! It thus increases the wear and tear as well as temperatures. Dumb people buy dumb products and then complain about their dumb problems with their dumb product. So all they can do is complain about how pathetic their lives are, because somehow they're never responsible for their own problems in life??? SMH! So being completely useless to help themselves with their problems, or IDK? Doing some simple research on this product your interested in buying? No! That's too much like common sense. And how we have come full 💫 circle here😅..... You can't fix stupid, Nope! But no matter how angry ignorance makes me, I always feel better once I see a paycheck. LMFAO! Somehow them $$$$$ makes me smile when I think about how ignorance pays my bills.......!?! So don't do stupid things in life and you'll get better results if you actually gave things a thought first or questioned things....... 🤯
Nah ive seen these come loose before its quite common. My guess is some where not tightened properly from the factory and over time it can vibrate/break loose. I always check this sensor and tighten if needed
Update.....from last week on this the sensor is known to back out..... it will take a 1- 1/16 inch close end wrench to fit the sensor or a 27mm you can tight it up from outside the car turn the tires to the left and remove the plastic tabs and gain access then remove the wires then put the close end of the wrench on to it, tight it up snugly.... you don't have room for a deep well socket and normal racket from uptop where the battery is or from the underside or the side so wrench is the best option i found......afterwards you will want to do a transmission fluid flush.... cheaper to do yourself.... Honda is almost $400 for a fluid flush.... on Amazon the fluid is $17 a quart....it says you will need 4 quarts but suggest 5 to have a little extra as precaution and to replace the 2 crush washers 1 for the drain plug and 1 for the fill plug.... at honda the crush washer are about $16 dollars..... if you need to replace the pressure sensor that backed out honda charges $118 -120 for the sensor and $10 for the 10mm crush washer that it uses..... Amazon or rock auto the prssure sensor is $45... oh and advance auto wanted $120 for the same sensor.....little advice put telfon tape or purple or blue lock tight on the treads to prevent it from backing out....otherwise you will risk stripping out the threads in the hole or it backing out again My local honda was going to charge me almost $900 total for a transmission fluid flush, a fluid diagnostic of $89, and to replace the same sensor..... I did it myself for about $120 Easiest thing I could do buy the crush washers from honda directly..... buy sensor from Amazon and the transmission fluid and do everything myself took maybe 3 hrs... only because I just had knee surgery back in December so getting up and down is a pain.... If you don't change the fluid or do a flush if your unlucky you will not have any power/torque.....and the car will drive like sh!t.....my wife car I had to get a almost 4k rpm to go up basic ramps....on the ground Got lucky no metal shavings on the drain plug magnet and after the flush and new sensor car drives like new.... Oh and honda civic you don't have dip stick to check your transmission fluid level... you have to remove the Fill bolt and have the car leveled and add fluid until it comes out the hole on the front of the transmission....best way to add fluid, drain the old out reinstall the drain plug.... remove the rubber cap on top of the transmission with the metal hook sticking out of it that is known to pop off, that cap online is $11 honda dealership $22 and add the fluid from up there until you see it come out the Fill hole, then lightly install the fill bolt, turn car on and put the car slowly into every gear yes eveb 1st and 2nd gear or s and l for like 5 sec while holding the brakes put back into park and repeat the gear shift into every gear pausing again then turn the car off remove fill bolt, add additional fluid until it comes out the hole and the install the bolt with new crush washer snug. The 10mm crush washer / gasket on the sensor part number from honda is. 90471-59c-000 $9.99 Drain plug crush washer part # is 94109-20000 washer, drain (20mm) $1.21 Fill bolt crush washer is Px4 22/23mm $3.95 Sensor, oil pressure part # 28660-r9L-003 $118.08 Unfortunately the new sensor from Amazon did not come with the 10mm crush washer fyi....and it was not listed on rockauto either but a cross reference search of the part number or a good part store will have some in stock...I'm sure you can find it for under $10 Hope this helps save you some money...
