He was very thorough showing us how to change CTV fluid. Keeping the car level when draining and filling was a very good point. I appreciate his time and effort.
The trans fluid from Honda is CHEAP vs a new trans- CHANGE IT OFTEN AS it says. The hard part is lifting the car SAFELY to keep it level. If you have a buddy with a lift your golden- Change the oil at the same time.. The 10th gens get 42-44 MPG and are HIGHLY sought after.
The crush washer for the level check is this: 90471-59C-000 The crush washer for the drain bolt is this: 90471-PX4-000 You're supposed to replace both of these. It's the same part numbers if you have another Honda with the 10 speed A/T and the whole procedure is pretty much the same as the CVT. The AT uses a crush washer + bolt for the fill port though.
interesting that you were able to find a part number for the check bolt crush washer. Everywhere I searched, everyone says there wasn't a crush washer when they took their check bolt out?
I found that 4 quarts is almost exactly the correct amount of fluid. Jack up the back of the car, then drain the old fluid. Replace the drain plug. Lower the car. Fill the trany with all 4 quarts. Done! Don't over think it. A couple ounces of extra fluid isn't detrimental. Changing the CVT oil is easier than changing the engine oil.
Great advice. I just did mine today (2018 Civic 2 liter, calls for 3.7 quarts) car was on a ramp and filled it at 3.7 quarts and nothing came out of drip hole. So pretty much emptied the whole 4th bottle thinking since car is not exactly level not expecting it to drip out. Like you said a couple of extra fluid (in my case. 0.3 quarts = 9.6 fluid oz) isn't detrimental. Thanks!
Probably one of the best DIY videos on here. Simple, informative, through and to the point. As a former Toyota and Ford mechanic, I'm sure you're already aware that you definitely want to make sure the CVT fluid level is correct at the specified temperature (usually 100°F). These CVT's can burn out quickly if the fluid level isn't correct.😎
Thanks so much for the comment! You’re right, I have an M3 that I changed the transmission fluid for that required the temps to be at a specific range for proper fluid levels 👍 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pUEO6bGH64o.html
How do you bing up the trasnsmission temp when its only 20 celsius or 70 fareneit outside? How critical is this oil leveling at 100 fareneit vs 70 farenheit?
@@raczykthe trans will heat up with the motor (not as hot as the motor of course) even when at idle. An OBD2 scanner, or infrared sensor gun pointed at the trans bottom will tell you the temp.
Make sure you change both CVT filters at 30,000. You will have to drop the pan. The other filter is next to the fill hole. And don’t use Honda CVT oil. It’s non synthetic. Use Amsoil 100% synthetic CVT oil.
You left out an important step. Fluid volume changes depending on its temperature. That's why Honda says you should re-fill it, lower the car down or have the car lifted level. Run it through the gears, check the fluid temperature, and when it's between 90-110F remove the check bolt and if nothing comes out add more. Otherwise, let it drain out until it's a slow trickle and put the check bolt back in. The trans fluid is temperature-sensitive. Skipping this step may result in you either underfilling or overfilling your trans, which isn't a good idea. I use a scan tool connected to the OBDII port...until it reads 90F. The temp rises fast, so you have to work quickly. Good luck.
So you're saying that we have to fill it, donw the car, change through gears, wait to the temperature raise to is normal temperature, turn off the car, and re fill if it need and loose the bolt and wait to see only a drop from the bolt? Sorry my English
I drain/refill every third oil change. On ramps, cold engine. I've measured the cold drain at 4 qts every time since new. Put in 4 qts. Easy maintenance...
Hey, great video. Just did min on my 15 Fit. I did notice that your exhaust mount is loose. The bolt is backed way out. Dont want you to rattle. :-) Thank for the awesome vid.
Get a clear juice 1 gallon Jug, with measurements on the side,they are about 3 bucks,drain your old fluid into the jug,and then you know exactly how much you took,out,jug can be used again and again for oil changes etc.
Nice work. Due front drive car, I'd place the rear tires on ramps and place front on the jack stands. Just in case when you place the car in gear and your foot slips off the brake pedal or being distracted, the car does not roll forward or reward.
Just go by your Honda maintenance minder. Every time that your oil life gets to 15%, it will have an "A" or "B" which both means oil change. "1" means tire rotation, "2" means air filter and cabin filter replacement, "3" means transmission fluid, "4" means spark plugs and timing belt (if equipped) and 5, 6, and 7 depends on the year of the car
I want to say a big thanks to Sal for sharing this video. I'll change mine soon. Here in Portugal is kms, not miles. Mine has 60.000 kms (37.282 miles) , time to change this fluid and filters and with your video, very simple for us that like mechanic's things 👍👍👍
Also good practice to make sure you’re able to get the check bolt loose before draining all the fluid out. If it’s seized and you don’t measure how much came out, you won’t be able to check it.
One annoying thing about these 2017+ 10th gen civics with the newer CVT's is that NOWHERE in the general or CVT maintenance is it mentioned that the torque converter (under the air manifold to the lower left of the CVT fill plug) has an identical rubber plug to the CVT fill plug and doesnt mention what it is for? The TC unit is pumped with trans/CVT fluid and generally doesnt require its own fill port so its confusing as hell. Furthermore, hidden near the TC unit rubber plug I mentioned is a small rubber 90 degree bend breather plug that IS mentioned in Hondas Technicians Guide as a maintenance item that requires cleaning to resolve the common issue with the 10th gens spitting their CVT plugs out while under aggressive load. These rubber breathers are bent 90 degrees and are supposed to be positioned at a 12 - 3 o'clock position facing away from the front end. They have a habit of either being knocked out of position or coming from factory facing the wrong direction. This causes the breather opening to rapidly collect debris and eventually over pressurizing the CVT and spitting the CVT plug out allowing debris to directly enter the CVT and TC units. I wouldnt doubt that under certain conditions, a small tug o war between a moderate over pressurization and a weak vacuum may develop due to the centrifugal force of the fluid within the units. This could cause random input miscalculations to the CVT/TC units. I dont know why honda doesnt add this extremely simple maintenance item to the general maintenance list and regiment as independent shops (Including Honda Certified) are not provided this information. In fact, your local Honda Dealer Technician likely has no idea of its existence either as it is only written about in Hondas Troubleshooting guide for technicians and they only become aware of it when this specific CVT fill plug spitting issue arises. My dealerships technician thought I was crazy until I showed him the TC unit plug and breather port with their part numbers. So if you are doing a CVT fluid change, make sure to remove, thoroughly clean, and properly reposition the breather/vent port. They are a bitch to get withe the stock air manifold and air box hooked up, so remove the air box if need be and dont push more debris into the unit haha
For the very first change that I did at 31.5K Miles, I measured how much came out from the factory exactly. I use the Amsoil Synthetic 100% CVT fluid. Honda stuff is always great to use but it is semi-synthetic and that is where you get that "Gunk" from on the drain plug. I changed the trans fluid again at 57K, a bit early since I had access to a lift and it was still super clear.
Amsoil CVT caused torque converter shudder in my Infiniti QX60. Just did a drain and fill. Now Infiniti dealership is saying to flush it all out and use Nissan NS-3. The OEM fluid is specifically designed for these finnicky CVTs. I'd recommend to never use Amsoil CVT fluid since it is not specific to each vehicle.
@@GokuInstinct1 Naw man Nisaan CVT is the worst. Terrible engineering and quality. Its your Nissan. You probably had some sludge from the shitty oem semi-syn oil that is clogged up some strainers and or filters. I appreciate the look out though.
Im new to this channel and damn ive been sleeping on my 2020 civics maintenance im glad i came across these videos great work and well explained im close to 45k and i haven't done none of that but seeing this guy i will be doing most work on my own and stop going to the dealership
I changed mine at 60k, measured what I drained out, put equal amount in, kinda wished I had changed it at 30, but didn’t . Hope I didn’t screw-up or anything up.
Get a bucket that has Gallons/Liters marked to the top. Drain it out, and you will know the exact amount of oil to put back in. There is no need to remove the top drain plug to check if it's full.
Thanks to you i’ll be doing this next week. Also, thanks to Honda for desgining the transmission in a way to be able to do it on our own. My ‘14 nissan almtima’s transmission went bust cuz of not changing the fluid. The dealership said it’ll destroy the transmission if i changed it smh, got destroyed anyways lol
@@Sals_Garage awesome! Thanks. One more thing, i’ll have to get the jack stands tomorrow. Since it’ll be sitting overnight, should i warm up the car, run it through the gears and then check the level or should i check it right away?
Mine filled 3.9qts so I put 4qts and shift thru gear and whatever excess fluid I just open up the check bolt to let it out I’m pretty sure all cvt from honda are the same way, Nice video Bossman
Different year, but I stretched mine too far and trans acted up.... did a change and luckily saved it. ALWAYS do trans service on time... just look at the cost to replace it should motivate all!
2018 civic sport cvt only changed it once at 80k m. I use it for delivering and Lyft it's at 180k m I'm about to do the second one , running fine just got scared for maintenance
Excellent video! I get the 30% off discount from my local Honda dealer (Honda Parts guys Fontana, CA) so I do mine every 10,000 miles. I just did new brake pads with hardware, bled the brakes, transmission service ($10 a quart) coolant change and new wiper blades for $217.69. I also do a full synthetic on the oil every 3,000 miles
Great video . I have a 2019 crv very similar to change. I like how you have ramps in front and jack in back. This is safe to jack back up wile on ramps ? Just getting ready to change mine.
Hey Bro, I did the oil change but my check plug screw is leaking. It seems like the washer on the 12mm screw is not working after re using it. Any idea what the part number is. I have been googling for a concerning amount of time and can not figure it out
That's because of such specialists, boxes don't live long. Before filling the oil in the variator, it is necessary to remove the pan and replace the filter, as well as change the filter under the air filter. If these filters are dirty, then fresh oil does not work well and ruins the variator. 4:12 The qualification of this locksmith can be understood from the video, which clearly confirms that the driver drives in a pigsty and also treats the car. How can you not respect yourself to ride in a chicken coop, at least you've vacuumed the car inside and wiped it. The pig swindled the car.
Guys, I was changing the fluid and I found out that may car as an intercooler of the cvt, wow, 😲 I order the filter and the o-rings but next time I have two double order the o-rings, one set for the plate of the filter and the other set for the plate of the intercooler. Nice. I'll post in the differents groups on Facebook to alert all that has ou hasn't that intercooler
@@Sals_Garage I followed your video when you changed the cvt fluid. Do you have other way I can send to you the only video I have just showing the cvt cooler.
They have other cvt fluids that work. Remember all brand have guidelines a guide they all have to follow. Sometimes it really is the name you're buying.
After refilling with new oil. Do you start the car and run through the gears with the check bolt still off or do you put it back in run through the gears then remove again to check the levels?
4.8L came out of the CVT drain plug, what next? Does CVT transmission oil expand in volume if it is old and dirty? My 2017 civic now has 190K km on it, and bought it used with 30K km on the odometer. First CVT oil swap I'm doing and think I may had my car slanted forward as when I drained the oil, 4.8 litres came out. Manual says to drain and refil with 3.5L. Can I just drain and fill the same amount which came out? Now I only have 4 litres to refil the car with. Do I simply use the 4 litre and add 0.8L of the old oil I've taken out? I don't know if the old dirty oil expands in volume. And I'm hesitant to use the check bolt if indeed the CVT volume expands or the car is not leveled properly. What do you think? Cheers, Rev
@@The_Noticer. not practical for our daily commute (California traffic). Ideal would be an automatic transmission with paddle shifters. We enjoyed driving a Mazda 3 with paddles.
@@Sals_Garage Yeah I may have gone for AT if it was something like the 10spd out of the Accord. But the CVT just cannot handle any ECU tuning, even running premium fuel on stock ECU lets it make dangerous power (204bhp/299nm tq) for the CVT. Since tuning was my goal, that was an easy choice. Need to upgrade the clutch though :')
@@The_Noticer. Oh I agree with ya. CVT is fine for daily, but just numb and boring to drive. For any performance driving you’ll definitely want a good transmission with upgraded clutch.
How are these transmissiom are they reliable i just got a 23 accord i do have to say tho i love the cvt smooth you dont feel any gears just speed gauge going up 🔥💯
Thanks for the reply. I was thinking if the shifting of gears should be the last step once everything else is done. I know that some people just drain and replace without checking the check-bolt to know for sure the amount of fluid is sufficient.
So i didnt realize my honda was cvt...and now im at 100k. My car still drives fine but now im gonna change the transmission fluid. Should i hold my breathe and pray? I was also thinking of changing the filter connected to the hoses.
To get to the fill hole you definitely had to take the air filter box first, right? Just bought ny hobda civic sport 2021 but i dint immediately see the fill hole
Not this video. This video I linked is where I change the filters too: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CI7mK6rZDTA.htmlsi=oOOdsEjgC8A44dVz
Hii i need your help, my 2016 civic 1.5 turbo has problem on the CVT transmission, i have a CVT transmission from a 2017 civic 2.0 naturally aspirated, they are the same transmission? Tks
@@GhostGhost- yea, no video since I did them 2.5 years ago. One of my favorite mods. Looks unique and helps with cooling. The new turbo is louder too. ebay.us/FhvFMC ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AM7Jfg-of2c.html
If the CVT fluid has not been changed for 150K km's, is it safe to swap, or leave it as is? Read if it has not been swapped for a while and fluid is swapped the CVT transmission can begin to slip.
Bought a Honda civic 2016 with 90,000 miles on it. I have no idea if the fluids ever been changed. Should I change it? Or, Is it too late to change it?
Hey Sal! I have been scratching my head why after draining and refilling the CVT fluid, I was able to put 4 quarts and not able to get any fluid dripping from the fill hole or chek bolt. I followed your procedure, made sure it was leveled, and fill 3.5 quarts and run it in gear from PRNL for 3 seconds each and then finish filling the rest of the 4th quart but nothing came out from check bolt. Do I need to get another quart bottle and do the check bolt to see if it will overfill for the check bolt? Will I be overfilling by getting another quart to see if it will fill up using check bolt?
@@Sals_Garage for sure Sal! I will go and buy my fifth bottle and fill until it is dripping out of the check bolt. How long should I run the engine to get it to the right temperature and run it in gears?
@@Sals_Garage okay do you know where i can get one for a fair price because I was thinking of taking it to the dealership but o became aware that this can be a quick fix like a reset also last thing before i place the check bolt back on the fluid was dripping a little not a lot i let it slow down not sure if that was okay ?
@@Sals_Garage whats up sal i forgot to come back here and thought i should share this info so all the lights that had came on after the fluid change well they went away on their own but i did drive my car out for a few miles and went back home after . transmission fluid was successful 👍🏽 and my car runs a lot better than it normally would right on SAL !! THANKS A LOT!! Ill be checking out your page for whenever you change the transmission filter 👍🏽 I APPRECIATE YOU SHARING THE KNOWLEDGE
Question..after changing fluid and running it through the gears, do u check the fluid level with engine running or not?..asking because every other trans fluid check on other cars ur supposed to have engine running..does anyone know this?
For the CVT it’s not necessary to check it when the engine is on. Just run through the 5 gears, shut it off, top it up, recheck by running through the gears again, and repeat again as necessary. The fluid just needs to be up to operating temperature with the engine off, that’s why we run through the gears and wait a few min, to heat up the fluid. 👍