Man, did this job yesterday and it was very simple to move the bar that he mentioned in the beginning and once that’s out the way the fan literally comes right out with ease and you can wiggle the alternator right thru the open space. Not trying to discredit this gentleman but the manifold is way more work but well at least he’s giving you options which is a good thing.
Question for you, by chance did you follow any type of guide or video to do it that way? Or did you just start slowly disconnecting stuff and it just became apparent as you went? Only reason I ask is because I'm going to be doing this in the near future.
I agree - pulled the fan and it gave the extra room for installing the alt bolts . However, I did Not remove the throttle body or coolant lines and I was able to move the intake over plenty enough to get the alt out 👍thanks for the video
You don't need to do all of this work just to remove the alternator. 1) Disconnect the belt 2) Disconnect the power steering pump and move it out of the way (like he shows) 3) Remove the tensioner pully (14mm) 4) Remove the tensioner (12mm) 5) Remove the PCV 6) Disconnect the alternator 7) Disconnect the wires to the Alternator 8) Turn the alternator sidways and pull it straight out. 9) Installation is reverse of removal
For me it made it a lot easier removing the intake. You could definitely do it that way, but I think the time spent removing the intake was well worth it.
Are you saying you did this without removing the coolant tank, fan or intake? There was room to access and pull out the alternator? If this is the case why have not found video of someone doing this on a 2nd gen CRV. Even on an Element you still need to remove the coolant tank and fan but the larger engine compartment of the Element prevents having to remove the intake or unbolt the crossmember as there is a bit more space to slip the alternator thru.
Dude thanks for sharing but you did way more work than you had to. If you just removed passenger tire, used one jack stand, unclip half of engine splash guard, loosen 4 bolts to ac compressor, then this would’ve been SOOOO much easier
So you mean you removed the alternator from the bottom? You were able to move the AC compressor out of the way without removing it? Its my understanding that to get the compressor out you have to unbolt the subframe to gain enough clearance to get it out from underneath after you unbolt it. Can't imagine there is enough room under there to leave the unbolted AC compressor near its home and still pull the alternator down and out. Any links to any videos of others doing this?
You are the best of all for doing this job and showing it on RU-vid , you explain and show at the same time . I give you a 10/10 ... I'm a mechanic by trade , you showed me a few tricks here that will make it easier on the next CRV Alternator that I have to do tomorrow . Thank you Andrew
I've done this on 2 1st gen TSX, which is a really tight fit. A semi deep 12 mm socket and flex head ratchet makes the job pretty easy. I didn't remove all that stuff. Moving the PS pump is only 2 bolts.
I bought my '06 CR-V new off the showroom floor. Great daily driver. Once had an independent shop replace the alternator and it was what I would refer to as a comedy of errors. After they installed the alternator they found they could only open the hood from under the engine, though they did fix it after I brought it back. By pushing up on the front bumper while attempting to get the hood release to work, they broke one side of the plastic front grill, which they just left that way. Also, I had to have them replace their alternator because of the obvious rattle I noticed almost from the beginning. They also told my my ac compressor was making noise and was bad. It was actually the water pump, which the dealer replaced under warranty (the alternator wasn't covered).
Great stuff Andrew! Recently changed the starter on my girlfriend's 03 CRV not long ago. Too bad I didn't know the alternator was on it's way out as well, as I was actually right next to it. Great step by step and awesome video!
I'm going through the same exact thing! I just replaced my original starter on my 2005 Honda crv (215k miles) and wish I had known the alternator would go a month later.
Just did one and was curious why you pulled the power steering pump as well as the crossbar on the passenger side. Seems like extra steps to me. All in all though, great video. Vehicular repair content creators are my kind of people. Thanks for doin what you do!
Thanks! 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼 Different ways to do it. Reason I pulled the PS was to make more space. Plus it’s easy to remove since it’s right up there and you have to remove the belt anyway. Crossbar was moved to maneuver the intake manifold out of the way. This also makes enough space to completely remove the intake to access the starter if needed. Having done that before made it no biggie to do it again this time around. Some people remove the radiator but I didn’t want to break any lines to have to bleed anything. Some people go from underneath. How did you do yours?
@@andrewhkim Pulled the throttle body, swung it out of the way with the throttle cables attached. Plugged the coolant passages, pulled the intake and was able to shift it out of the way to the drivers side. Then pulled the alternator. Only thing that could have made it a little easier would maybe have been to pull the fan for the sake of that lower passenger side bolt, but even still it wasn’t bad enough for me to justify it. Certainly not bashing your method, just adding my two cents. Just one more reason why I love my flat four subies.😁
Thank you very much for sharing this helpful step by step tutorial and instructions for replacing the alternator which I want to do it also in my crv right now.
Hey there, I did the exact thing but now it’s not starting. I’ve even replaced the battery since it was old. The car is cranking but not starting, what could I have done wrong?
If you ever replaced the starter it's the same procedure, you did way too much wrenching on wrong stuff, take the hood latch off and pull the intake plenum and boom total access to what you need to get too, just remember to replace the double o-ring gasket and easy fix
@@andrewhkim Did your lesson yet Andrew? This is exactly why I don't post my repair video's. "OMG Andrew, what a total fool you are" "You should have done it from the bottom" or "Andrew, do you even know what your doing? You took the two bolts off the pass side t-bar and did not have too, what a joker you are!" Like you Andrew I do not have a lift so I am R&R from top and removing the intake. I also took my PS pump out cause it is waaay easier. Completed half the job yesterday, this morning bought the alt. and going out in couple minutes to install. One thing that happened to mine was my top alt bolt was seized. Even with pb blaster and heat would not come out. Not wanting to risk breaking bolt I elected to cut the top ear off the alt and then work on the bolt. Shame too cause my alternator was working before I let it sit and when I started car the front bearing was seized and smoking the belt. Was only going to free up bearing or replace it. Instead had to sacrifice alt. for the bolt. Alternator was old anyways. BTW, I am a retired mechanic/shop owner of 40 years. I am old but still do all work myself.
@@andrewhkim Yup, like I said owned my own shop for 40 years and all repairs suck. Especially a 15 year old rusty car with 120k on it. It's my grandsons car. My shop was actually a car dealership. Had 500 car license, repair shop, collision dept and ALL the headaches that go with it.
Great video, thanks!! I have this job ahead of me (2002 crv) but I have to replace the fans also, so I think I'll have enough room as long as I put something thin against the radiator to prevent accidental damage. I see how you gave yourself plenty of access, but I would be worried about putting everything else back together.
im doing this job right now. Hardest part so far are, trying to move the intake over like you did. I cant seem to move it as far as you did. And that last alternator bolt under the AC line is driving me nuts!!! dropped my ratchet trying to get that bolt...might have to pop off the plastic under the bumper find my tool ,so i might just go ahead and remove the fan while im there...this is reminding me of doing my clutch in my 8th gen civic.
When my Radiator fan kicks on, it dips power the way it would if you were to kick on the AC. I think this is an electrical drop when the load increases. Im guessing the Alternator might be on it's way out. Not sure if anyone else on here had these symptoms early on before their Alternator went out. Hondas have slightly different symptoms than other cars. When the Starter went out, the battery kept dying and draining for weeks until i replaced the starter. Weird.
my OCD triggered a panic attack looking at that P/S reservoir unhooked towards the end.. untill you was like “oh wait-“ Woulda been a timely (if not costly ) replacement of the belt (possibly the water pump and ac components) if all that steering fluid leaked out all over your engine bay..
I generally consider repairs easy when you don’t have to bleed anything, have fairly easy access to bolts and parts, with minimal use of special tools. Check out the other methods of replacing the alternator. I’d say this is the easy way.
Mr. kim, thank you so much for posting this video. ❤ Because of you, i was able to repair my car. I'm a 66 year old single female with stage 4 cancer and had never worked on a car before. I was able to tear my car apart, replace the alternator and put the car back together correctly. Thank you for taken time to explain all steps. Nancy 🎐
Starter kickstarts the engine to get it spinning and fired up. It uses battery to power it. Alternator is an electrical generator that powers everything once the engine is running. It also charges the battery rather than using it. The alternator is powered by a rubber belt that spins with the engine.
Sorry, didn't realize they were on backorder due to the current global supply issue. if you need one asap, i'd probably go for something like ACDelco amzn.to/3UEQC7q
"Easy" and "remove intake to replace alternator" ----those two concepts don't go together, lol. I appreciate the video, but I think doing it the normal way is far easier.
I’m having an issue with my Honda. I’ll be driving normally then when I press the break and turn to the right and press the gas it doesn’t want to go like the gas peddle isn’t registering to the car to go almost like the car is shutting off but everything’s still on and normal just no gas. It’s only when I turn-press the break-then gas peddle and it slows down eventually when I press the gas peddle harder it will pick up and go. Please does anyone know what that issue can be 😭
Does it hesitate hard? Can you describe more on what happens when it doesn’t go? Like no response? Then you let go of the gas and hit it again and it goes?
@@andrewhkim so I was driving normally and I had to slam on my breaks a little and make a right turn and as soon as I went to press the gas nothing was happening and the car was still moving. And I pressed the gas peddle harder and it was trying to pick up gas but hesitated for 3 seconds and then just kicked in. It kind of catches you off guard, you slow down at a turn and you’re waiting for the car to pick up gas and suddenly doesn’t. 🤷♀️
Sounds like the same issue I had. I'm making a new video on it. i thought it was possibly either transmission fluids, spark plugs, coils, injectors or fuel pump. turns out none of those were the problem. basically my issue was worn out motor mounts to where a bolt wore out a wiring harness...eventually short circuiting some wires. I can't say it's exactly what you're going through, but if it is, it'll eventually leave you stranded. if it does, then keep some green 30A fuses on hand for the "ENG" fuse under the hood. you can restart the car that way, and drive very gently home. the more you jerk the engine, the more it'll grind down the wiring harness.
This "easy diy" video is rediculous. Video procedures and recording is fine, but the method involving removing the intake manifold is stupid. This has potential to cause a much bigger problem and you will need to waste money on new gaskets to reinstall properly. No good.