Quick note: Go on dorman's website and try to locate the exact part number for your vehicle to be sure. Most of the servos are the same but there are a couple options. If I have helped you please help me and the channel! Click the servo link in the description, and then look up your part number from dorman to see if it has any availability options through amazon. I will still get credit as long as you access amazon through the link in the description. I will get credit for anything else you order also! Go crazy 😀 *_New sway bar link video_* ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0S8JBe_jn6g.html
Thanks for posting, it was helpful identifying things to consider and look at in a logical order. Our mechanic replaced that little flapper valve under the hood yesterday, and still no heat, even though it was actuating. Then, he told my wife $1200.00 more to fix, because the heater core was plugged. I did a reverse flush today, (low pressure). Water seemed to flow through the core ok, and now she has some heat. It's not hot-hot, but its definitely warm.
Outstanding! No problem. I have a flushing method video on my channel also that I have used for years. Might help. Works better than anything else. My grandpa taught it to me. Best trick ever if you need to flush more out. I’m glad you got some heat working!
Thanx much appreciated. Did the test and showed # 9 as well, Took off fuse cover for better visual. Sure enough the gear was not driving all the way. Removed the previous owners long hair out of the drive gear and lubed with WD, worked like a champ. I use my Element a lot as a covered truck and blow it out with a leaf blower, I'm sure that doesn't help but oh well, love the vehicle. Much thanx saved me hours of research.
Thanks. Mine's a 2000 Honda Accord. The heat blend door is on PASSENGER side. How to get to it? Ain't seen nothing that detailed yet. I dont have indoor garage. I am an old, and big dude. 240lb, 6'1". ALSO.. I am not sure if it's the flapper in the engine compartment.
I am not sure on your accord. But if you think it is on the passenger side, you could start by removing the glove box. Once removed you should be able to see where inside it is and make you next move. Concepts should all be similar. Make sure the door is moving. Make sure inside has heat there from the engine. Then fix which ever is missing 😃🔧
I am sorry that actuator didn't work for you. I went through the amazon link I provided and entered in your vehicle fitment and it said it does not fit. Sorry about that. Those parts are hard to find and some are different. I provided links for the model I had to get you going on the right pathway of finding your own part. "2008 honda element blend door" is what you want to try searching for. I could not find the correct part on dorman.com and amazon didn't show anything either. I did find it on rockauto.com the part number is GPD 1712729 $49. I did find it on ebay also. The Honda dealer is always good of course. I think I would go with rockauto.com Sorry for the hassle! 😃🔧
Great video! Well done. Hopefully I have a similar problem. About to go and test using your pointers here. :-) *The Amazon "Compatibility checker" says the part you listed here is NOT compatible!? Did you have to alter it in any way or is it just an inefficient algorithm? Why didn't you add the replacement process to this film?
Thank you! I did end up replacing the blend door to fix the problem. You can see it was week in the video. But it did move with assistance. I didn’t have the new part. I should have made the video differently by waiting for the part and showing the install. Sorry about that. I’m not sure why the parts are different on amazon. You may need to look under your dash with your phone and confirm the part number with your phone by taking a video. That’s what I did. Then you can try to find options on amazon or eBay or the dealership. It was easier than using a mirror. It’s a tight space down there but with some patients it can be done 😀
I now have an updated video posted on the replacement and troubleshooting of this actuator! :-) I got the part listed here and it came with it geared in the wrong position. It may just be a fluke for my order but buyers beware. Message Dorman and order over the phone so you can get a free RMA return as needed. It also comes with the wrong actuator arm so make sure you keep your original OEM arm guys.
I don't have a video on the replacement. You can see the actuator in the video has mounting fasteners. In was fairly easy to replace except for the actuator being hard to reach under the dash 😀🔧
Sometimes the computer will not have a code if it thinks everything is working ok. Are you missing heat only? It may think everything is working good. But the heater core could still be dirty and clogged and needs cleaning. I have seen that before. It basically thinks everything is functioning ok but there is no heat to the heater core for that reason.
Hi Kevin. Yes, the electric blend door motor did fix the problem entirely. Un-hooking the weak motor from the water valve under the hood, gave it enough power to be able to switch on its own again temporarily. I ran it like that with no problems for a couple months before I replaced it. I'm not sure how long I could have gone, maybe forever. But, I did replace it, to make sure I didn't have the problem in winter again. Does your car have the same symptoms?
@@EasyFixShaun Yes but i think my problem is different since my blend door motor is working fine. Mine seems to be from a head gasket leak. I lose antifreeze. Since it's not leaking, it must be seeping into the engine thru an exhaust valve. Reason i think that is it's not in the oil or on the plugs. No errors codes or poor running. I used a Blue Devil product for now until i can get the money to replace the head gasket.
Ok, Ya if the head gasket is leaking internally that could be the cause of coolant loss. It could also be pumping a small amount of air into the cooling system. If there is constant air being pumped in, that would sometimes go to the heater core because its the highest part of the system. If everything was working fine, the radiator cap can rid a small amount of air through normal engine heating and cooling off cycles. But if the leaking head gasket is pumping air in the cap can not keep up. In the mean time you could a try a new cap for the heck of it and see if that possibly helps...?
I don't believe there is an air bleed screw on that motor. Maybe google it quick to be sure. If it is an internal head gasket leak, It won't typically pull coolant from the jug into the cooling system like normal even if you do get it bled. Basically once a head gasket reaches that point you need immediate repair. Did you by chance try a head gasket and block tester? They are easy to use and you can quickly test the head gasket to see if that is the problem. You can pick them up at just about any parts store.
Thank You so much for the Great Video! I have a 2006 CRV AC was working , but no heat for 2 years. I sprayed the cable and lever on the heater valve, then the blend door actuator. now everything is working again!
Hello Shawn. Best Video I've seen so far regarding this issue. I came to your same conclusion but tell me why do the norther Element who need heat get stuck on cold and us down in South Florida get stuck on heat. LMAO. I did the temp fix like you did, of course, not before doing a complete vacuum of and recharge of the AC. &%^$ . Anyway, this is great way to get back on the road and thank you for the part number, so many options on the net I have been struggling with which one to buy. My question is, did you do a video on changing the motor, how may screws etc. Do you have any instructions? I've heard removing the front seat will save your back. Any help will be appreciated!
Thank you! Heaters break in mysterious ways don't they! Its crazy man 😂. I did replace the motor. Its was tight but doable. I used a super short screw driver i believe. Three screws i think. I wish i had made a video for you. Im sorry i don't have one. Seat removal would help. But not necessary if you are flexible.
I never reply but I use RU-vid for everything almost everyday - SO DUDE. thank you! warm sweet air in the deepfreeze in FL - tired of wearing gloves and heavy jacket just in the car . .Thank you thank you
Glad to help! You rock! Appreciate you going the extra mile to reply. Makes me feel good and it helps youtube know I am doing the right things also. Enjoy your heat 😃🔧
Great video! Had this exact problem on my '09 Element, ran diagnostic (Code 9), moved gear by hand - got heat! Will be ordering the blend door motor. Thanks!
I ran a code 10 on this issue with my 2003 Honda element. The cable is completely stuck so I moved the valve myself in the engine bay. Still no heat coming in. What would be a temporary fix this issue or do you believe the whole motor unit needs to be replaced for any progress?
Can you open the valve under the hood by hand. And also turn the interior blend door motor by like the video? That gave me perfect temporary heat but no temp control at the control head. I replace ld the motor for the blend door that also has the cable to the engine bay. Works great.
@@werewolfalpha845 The valve near the back of the engine is just an on/off fluid valve. if it is closed you won't have heat to the heater box. If it is open and you have great heat to the heater box, the problem is usually the servo motor. I had two problems caused by one part. The servo motor in the heater box inside has a cable that hooks it to the water valve outside. The servo was weak and could not open the blend door inside and open the water valve at the same time. I disconnected mine. Opened the watervalve outside. Then tried to assist the blend door inside to open the blend door to allow heat to come out the vents. Worked great. I then ordered and replaced the blend door actuator and everything works great now from hot to cold.
Great video! My coolant level is good. I tried multiple times to so the 2 finger computer test and got no flashing so either I'm doing it wrong or I don't have any errors. I check the thing under the steering wheel (you must take off the plastic in front of the fuses lol) and that is dusty but good. My water pump is making a terrible noise so I'm changing that this weekend and going to also do a heater core flush so hopefully that problem. Thanks again.
Wow you have a lot of obvious things that are needed. I’m sure one of those things will end up being the fix. Always fix the obvious and then see what ya got before doing too much more. Usually with a little luck you hear will be working.
Helpful diagnosis. I would, however, suggest using silicone instead of petroleum based lubricant because the latter damages plastic, which those gears are.
Thanks man! If the control head looks the same try this videos method. If not I would search RU-vid and google and you should find what you are looking for 😀
At 21:55 you popped the coil off of a lever that you checked to see if it was moving freely. Can you test it without removing the wire part? I had a new part installed under the pedal, unsure what it was but the guy thought that was the issue and replaced in like 15 minutes…no heat. He then showed me how to manually move it to heat as winter was coming by what I thought was moving the lever under the hood (the one I asked you about) and I had heat all winter. Now, I have no heat but then again I just had a new head gasket, head milling for 2 Cyl and a thermostat installed. I had no heat after my radiator went low on fluid which was the start of misfiring and head milling. Dealer now says new core, $2k. 03 Element and I cannot sink another 2k into it. Check with a flush first…service guy mentioned this as an option. Thoughts?
@@bobgomavitz1330 There is procedure in the video during diagnosis where I tried it and it didn't help me. its always worth a shot. And anytime new parts are installed it must be performed for everything to work properly.
Thanks for the great video. Do you think the actuator can still be the culprit even if i get no codes from the self diag? i have heat only on the passenger side of the car.
Nice video. I followed your steps perfectly. I’m ordering the actuator. Do I pull the dash off to get at the blend/actuator valve? The video stopped after we identified the possible issue.
Easy Fix We live on a mile of dirt road. A few weeks ago I used the leaf blower to blow the layer of winter sand, dirt and soot out of the cab! This drove dirt and grime up into the plastic planetary gear the operates the blend plate. The prior lube caught and retained the sand, causing the plate to seize. The little motor did not have enough juice to operate the blend. All I needed to do was remove the motor (VERY TOUGH ONE HAND OPERATION) to allow cleaning (air compressor accuracy) and re-lube to lithium base and NOT petroleum base), test and reassemble. No need to remove ANY dash works. Did the two button diagnostic test w same results. Hmmmm. Engine CEL light came on. Considering removing battery cable for a while. THANKS FOR THE SUPPORT. $5 for can of lithium
Nice job! My motor stopped working even though I lubricated it. They weaken over time unfortunealty. It’s a Honda thing. The good news is the system can be forced to hit or cold for a temporary fix until you can get a motor. 😃
If it wont move with the electric motor removed, the door is hung up for some reason and the heater box will ultimately need disassembly to diagnose. Try to twist it and break if free with out breaking the plastic tab if you can. Sometimes they stick a bit from foreign material getting inside.😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun Thanks for the reply Sean. What do you mean by electric motor removed? Do I have to remove something. FYI, I was talking about the leaver underneath the steering wheel
Oh ok. You make need to watch the video again. There are several pinch points on the system that cause no heat or low heat. The lever under the steering wheel is only the first part. There is also a blend door that sticks or also the electric motor to turn it gets weak. Both are on the hvac box😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun Thank you Sean. I watched it a few times, but I was more wondering why I can't move the lever under the stirring wheel like you do in the video at 12:56
Gutcha. That servo moves the white lever which moves two things simultaneously. the electric servo motor could be stuck. The cable could be stuck. The gears and the blend door they are attached to could be stuck. The motors are known for getting weak. The cable could stick or the valve it attaches to could be stuck. You need to eliminate causes one by one. It could be any of the three things or a combination of them. Start with the easiest which is remove the cable and see if you can move it by hand. Keep going from there. Let me know what you find.
Im having this same issue with my 2003 Element. However it seems like the small white gear on bottom is stuck. When you removed the motor could you spin the small white plastic gear on the very bottom? Im not sure if my motor is weak or if my blend door is physically jammed. Thank you!
Hey Ryan. I thought my blend door was jammed also. My problem ended up being a weak motor. I could move the blend door by assisting the motor with my hand. So I got the heat working well. But it would stop working immediately because the motor was weak on the next try. By disconnecting the aux cable to the water valve under the hood I was able to get the motor to work reliably on its own. It had just enough power to turn the blend door properly every time. I just switched the water valve under the hood to always open and everything worked. I ran it like that for a month or so while I waited for a new motor to arrive and install it. Once I installed the new motor I was able to hook up the water valve and everything worked like it was supposed to.
@@ryanrobichaud3344 Oh ok, I am with you now. I would remove the motor and feel the door. If you can move it, motor is bad. If you can't move the blend door, The Hvac unit will need to be removed and disassembled to find the problem. Usually something to do with the door, It could have debris jamming it up. Hard to say. But those would be my basic next steps to diagnose.
Its the blend door. I bought a new motor, but upon removing the old motor i can now see the white round gear to the door is stuck. Seems to me that its a major job to remove and replace this part. Pretty bummed!
@@ryanrobichaud3344 Crap man! I am sorry. Yes it is a big job. Very doable, but will take some time and effort. I would try to move the gear by hand. Sounds like you need to remove the Dash board and heater box. Then open up the heater box and determine what the cause is. Sorry buddy. Not my favorite job at all. But, it is a fairly "clean" job since you are inside the car almost the whole time.
It's means I have a problem in the blower motor system. Should I just clean it and lubricate the shaft or do something else?. Tomorrow is Monday and it's my day off so I want to play with it.
@@samishaq9998 Ok, so you have normal fan speeds but no heat. I would first check fluid level when cold. If it's full, I would put the cap back on and start the engine and get it to normal operating temp. Once its warmed up feel the heater hoses, they should be hot. If they are hot, you might have the same exact issue I have in the video. Keep me posted on what you find!
@@EasyFixShaun the cable is moving back and forth perfectly although I put some oil on the gearbox my issue is I am installing a new radiator and I full it to the top when the engine was running I was feeling the upper hose which goes to the engine it was hot but the air inside the cabinet was cold
I did not. I should have I am sorry. They are totally doable up under the dash. The space is a little bit confined but if you are patient you can do it no problem.
Sorry for the late reply! I am so glad it helped you out. To remove the electrical connector the release tab just needs to be pressed. Sometimes it is hard to see. A pick or small screwdriver will help release it if you can not get to it with your hand. Don't force it, when released it will remove easily. 😃
Excellent! I have a flush video for stubborn plugged heater core flushing if needed. Usually Honda’s heater cores don’t plug though. Should be just the actuators 😀
Car stuff is cool and fun, thanks for everything? BUT - I would report to HQ's as often as possible. I don't think that you should leave HQ's? lol. My problem was/is the heater control valve. I manually move it for now. Temp fix. I will look into it further, thanks to your video! HQ is calling? lol. Maybe the wire is just off? Thanks.
Hahaha! Yes, I report to Headquarters frequently. Yes, check the wire to the motor from that valve. Also, at some point in time someone could have just removed it the control wire to the valve. You can run it that way permanently if you choose. Just leave the engine bay valve in the open position. You may sacrifice a few degrees of temperature in the summer when HQ desires Air conditioning though. :)
