Honda em5000sx Generator Testing Automatic Voltage Regulator AVR No Power Output 

I really enjoyed watching you investigate what was going on with this angry generator.

Thanks so much for the tip on flashing the field. that did it for me. Your you tube example helped considerably.I used the generators start battery for the field flash with the connectors to to the stator windings disconnected(did not hold flash) connected the stator windings and the flash held and the voltage came up to spec. Gerald Martin

When I used to repair these generators we'd look at the AVR then test the diodes on the rotor shaft (7 out of 10 times it was the diodes) then check winding insulation resistance and continuity. And either rewind the stator replace the diodes or repair the AVR.

Disconnect one winding. so you have two ends floating, connect a 1.5 or 6 volts battery briefly across it. but also a NE 2 neon globe with 100k resistor to protect the neon. Disconnect the battery, leave neon connected. The kick back from the winding will make the neon glow briefly. then winding is ok. if neon doesn't glow there are shorted turns. Test it with an good transformer to see if your simple circuit works.

That generator is worth while fixing I think. At least do an autopsi on it and check continuity of the windings and insulation tests in case there is a short to the steel shaft. The stator windings don't look burnt. normally dark brown colour is visible in case of shorted turns. Do the Neon lamp flash test on the windings.

My bad! I was accidentally looking at ohms for the 3500 rotor on the wrong page. Yours does ask for the higher reading of 55-65ohms. Lots of sitting generators do require backfeeding to re-energize the field from sitting. Good informative video btw.

Rotor connects go the motor shaft via a tapered coupling. Been there did it.

The rotor is held there by the centre bolt, on the engine side it is probably tapered or fits on to a parallel shaft. My Loncin I change the rotor and stator which was recommended as doing together. You are saying its the rotor but unless you binned the machine or lost interest because you mentioned stripping it looked like a big job, what happened. Did you ever fix it and what was the answer? I am dubious about the rotor being at fault but very keen to find out what it was. Please tell me you fixed it.

Where did you get a copy of the schematic? Would it be possible to get a copy? I have a Honda generator with a sawfuji B50 generator with a bad Stator. It has a plug on the bottom that must adjust for frequency or something. Replacement generators do not have this set of wires. So I am wondering what they do.

My friend burned a stator in his EM5000SX Honda generator and gave it to me, tried getting it rewound, didn't work, long story, so I bought a new stator for $736 but have a wiring problem in that the four wires coming from the new stator are green, red, black and yellow, while the four from the harness they are supposed to connect to are gray, red, blue and white. Can anyone tell me how to connect them or how to figure it out? Thanks, Doug

What are the ratings/values on the Variac that you are using?

I wonder whatever happened with this? I've dealt with many of these Honda 5000W units for fun on the side (I'm a professional generator tech on large commercial and industrial systems.) If the rotor were open or shorted you'd likely never have any output no matter what you tried. I'd think either the AVR is the exciter winding or wiring have an issue.

Need to improve your test proceedure. Unplug the exciter from the regulator and connect a meter. Connect a variac to the regulator. With varia at zero start the generator. Measure the exciter voltage. Adjust the variac to match the exciter. Did the exciter voltage increase? If not the machine won't build. This can find bad diodes, or other regulator problems. AC in to AC out should be a fixed ratio up to core (iron) saturation or the regulator operation. Graph it. Problem is either shorted turns on the rotor (field, exciter, or main), or bad diodes or cap in the regulator. Chart a good machine and compare volts in vs volts out to verify rotor, or exciter problems, vs regulator problems.

Does it worked after replacing the rotor? i have exactly the same problem with my generator....

Actually its dc on the brushes!,,, i think there is a loose solder connection on the sliprings, or defect brushes.if the avr is good , en you apply dc on the brushes and then it should work, iff nor rotor failor just loose wire somwhere.

Where did 60 ohms on the rotor brushes come from? Specs I have say it should be 45-55ohms. Any higher and the rotor needs replacing.

you need to test the output voltage across the brushes, it should be anywhere up to 10 volts ac then between the field coils R1 & R2 L1 & L2 it should be around 5 volts ac on each coil test with avr removed if all three tests are good then the avr is breaking down

Has any one had a problem with high voltage? 142 volts not 120 and 280 not 240?the meter also shows 60Hz?

You see, I have a similar problem with my generator, model no.E P 5500. It is up and running but there is no voltage output. Again the stator windings don`t look bun`t. Everything seem quiet OK. So, could you please come in and help me as well.

may need a permanent battery hook up to excite it, annoying!!, weird why it doesn't retain magnetism though!!

Se observa que no sabe nada de inducción. Que pena.

Diode. poor rpm, htz thats failuer

My friend, don't put DC current on the brushes. They ment to work on AC. That way you'll fu@# the regulator.

If it does not work take it apart and test everything,