This car has over 250k miles. The valves were adjusted about 2 years prior to this video, but the car was running rough so I adjusted them again. Now it runs smooth and is peppy once again.
I was quoted at $515 for this job by the dealership. Thanks so much for making this video. Mine were way out of spec and my car was running poorly. Feels like I have a new car now!
The best way to make sure the adjustment is done right is to learn how to do it yourself. I checked the valve adjustment the dealer did way back on my old VW Beetle and the adjustments were off. Mechanics are under time pressure. You can see by this video to do it correctly would take many hours.
This is by far the most detailed video I've ever seen. Good job 👍. My CRZ is now approaching 100k. Quite hard to find valve adjustment guidance on CRZ. Planning on doing this next time as a reference.
hey do you have a loud engine knock or had any problems with them? i am used to the oud honda fuel rail but going down the highway it developed a loud knocking noise.
Nice video 👍 , one of the best on RU-vid for doing the fit valves, Thanks for uploading! How often has your vehicle had the valves checked during the 250,000 miles it's been driven?
Incredible. No wonder no one adjusts them and the cars just disappear from the road. Toyota Yaris and Corolla use shims and run hundreds of thousands of miles with no valve adjustments.
7:35 This car has very inexpensive ignition coils. From experience, Hitachi-053 or Denso (with blue boot on the end) are the best replacements 9:44 very clean engine , what kind of oil? and what brand of air filter? Thanks!!
You are correct - I should have used better quality, but I was in a time crunch when I installed them. They have worked fine for years now, but next time I change them I'll use Denso. I use any oil that is a good deal - no brand loyalty. I use Bosch or Mobil 1 filters.
@@msbrunell TY, most 07-08 Fit engines are very clean inside, no sludge (opened few on the junk yard). I am planning to do my second valve clearance check later this fall. When I did it last time, I unbolted throttle body from plenum and hooked it up ; it was connected to the coolant hoses ,wires, etc; I left battery in place. I will make a video too (will use a tripod). You air cleaner element looks like Purolator brand (with yellow pleats but I can be wrong)
Yes I also took off the throttle body the first time I did this job. If the little coolant hoses are supple enough, you don't need to remove it. But I would check for coolant leaks after the job is done - you need to bend those guys quite a lot. The air filter you are seeing is a Fram Extra Guard Air Filter, CA10233, but now I am using ECOGARD XA5657. Again, whatever is a good deal!
My car has a little ticking noise at idle but gets louder under Acceleration no loss in power no CEL on could it be that my valves need to be Adjusted bought car used didnt make a noice have drove it for 9k miles now just started the other day odometer says it had 331k miles on it now
I need to do this job to my Fit. I store it during the winter to keep it out of the Michigan salt, but, it's definately time to adjust the valves. I kept putting the job off, since I couldn't find a video that walked me thru the entire job.........I've just skipped thru your video, and am really impressed/thankful with the attention to detail you've provided. Thank you sooooo much and now I feel confident I can get all that stuff out of the way in order to adjust the valves. Thanks again!!
Yo tengo un Honda Fit 1.3 2012 y me suenan las válvulas pero, escuchando otros tutoriales, como las valvulas de este modelo son mecanicas y no hidráulicas, creo que cada 40 mil kilómetros hay que estar regulandolas. Deberion de haber sido hidráulicas las válvulas ya que, este es un sistema muy antiguo y la paja tener que desarmar todooo para regular 16 valvulas. Que rabiaa.😢😢😢😢😢😢
CONSULTAAA ??? SE VAN REGULANDO DE ACUERDO AL ORDEN DE ENCENDIDO ?? 1 - 3 - 4 y 2 ?? Ho solo se deja el piston en el punto muerto superior ?? Si alguien me puede ayudar con esta duda. Y para Admision es 0.15 mmm y escape 0.25 mm ??? De antemano muchísimas gracias.
Thanks a million, did exactly the way you showed on doing it and it fixed everything. The Fit was lagging power, dieing when cold, terrible mpg and idle really rough . After vavle adjustments its all gone. Thank u again sir.
I'm going to give us a shot! I took my car to a few mechanics and they keep telling me that there's nothing wrong with my car... They can't get it to quote "act up".. all they ask me if there's a check engine light is on!! I'm like if there was a check engine light on I'd fix the f****** problem myself! Lmao. They charged me $60 to run a modular test!!! Scum bags.
Very grateful for this video. Wife's car has been running a little rough and occasionally tries to die after startup. Changed coil packs and plugs but that hasn't really helped. Was not getting any check engine lights either. Found this and adjusted the valves. Cylinder one and three were way out of adjustment. Wife says it is smoother and quieter now. Won't know about the dying issue until cooler weather, hoping for the best though.
this is basically the same engine and process for my CR-Z. very helpful. Really what i needed was what the service manual doesn't provide. How to hand crank the engine and which direction. Thank You!
Absolute design master piece this engine given its application, used in the European Civic hatch as well they seem to be almost indestructible given some maintenance.
Please let me know where to find torque specifications for Valve cover bolts and valve adjustment bolts. And other torque specs to do this job for my 2007 Fit Sport with 111k miles needs valve adjustment. Thank you
No you don't need to remove them. The engine will be easier to rotate if they are out, but it isn't necessary. But you do need to remove the coil packs.
Your work is so precise and well done I watched the whole damn video. And I won't be doing the work my son will be. Now I can let him know what a sloppy job he's doing in comparison. Ill be nice and go grab him a torque wrench though!!!
so question my car is making lil ticking noise but doesn’t have any stalling problems or anything and just came out of i where was wondering if it could be a valve adjustment
Did this on my wife's fit car runs good now only concern I have is I started with cylinder 1 top dead center with marks aligned with head but I read after the fact about crank pulley aligning with a pointer by oil pump or something like that as long as I was tdc on cylinder 1 that should've been good right I just read there was an extra alignment on the crank pulley
It should slide into the gap. If it isn't sliding in, either the gap is too small and needs to be opened or you aren't getting the gauge lined up properly (which can be tricky). Once it slides in, adjust the bolt until it slides with a tiny amount of friction.
Thank you for this great video - very thoughtful to add the closed captions! I succeeded in doing my adjustment over the weekend thanks to your guidance. In case anyone else gets a P0113 - you forgot to plug the IAT sensor back in - ask me how I know :-)
Thats very cool, I did it with my 2010 honda city, but I have doubt about the clearance, can we make Intake 0.15mm and Exhaust 0.23mm, What do you thing is it ok?? Thanks a lot about your video Its definitely informative, I just did this job first time and I am satisfied 😊
So i realize you are adjusting them to middle of tolerance for both intake and exhaust. May I know if it's ok to adjust the exhaust on the loose end of the tolerance and intake on the tight end?
When I did my L13A valves recently, I found that both intake and exhaust valves were on the loose side (i.e. greater lash than spec for the majority of valves). I think next time I will aim for the tight end for both, although there's not a lot of wiggle-room either way.
@@thromboid exhaust should always be on the loose end. They tend to get tight overtime. Intake either get loose or don't change much at all. I adjusted my L15A in the middle for intake and on the loose end for exhaust.
@@nicholasong2892 Yes, that's what I was expecting with mine, so I was a little surprised that none were too tight, only within spec or too loose. Mind you, I don't know exactly when or how they were adjusted previously (it would be at least a couple of years ago).
My 08 has been running rough and stalling when cold. All forums and signs point towards this being the cause. Have any of you guys noticed similar symptoms before adjusting? Thanks!
@@msbrunell hey! Me again. Just finished making the adjustments and it fixed all my issues I was having, car runs better now than when I bought it. Thanks again!
FWIW, mine runs noticeably quieter after valve adjustment (before adjustment, more than half had greater lash than spec). Injector noise can be quite ticky, still.
