Thank you. This helped me better see the difference between the vka and hya models. However, I'm now discouraged from purchasing the HYA/HXA/HZA models as the transmission assembly alone is ~$400 and it still connects to engine thru a drive belt rather than a metal shaft.
Here is the righr way to do the transmission replacement. 1. You should drain only from top not from bottom using that 2 8mm bolt. 2. fill the original honda hydrostatic fluid all the way to top. Honda 08208-HST02 3. rotate output shaft 4 to 5 turns ANTI CLOCK WISE complete revolution using your hand until 2 things happened. a. no more air bubbles. b. fluid is not lowering .if it is lowering add more all the way to lip of the top cover. not just top again to the lip. 4. put the fill cover back using 8mm bolt and hand tight. 5. using 14mm bolt, rotate input shaft and depressing the drive arm lever both at same time. rotate CLOCK WISE. and watch input shaft rotating.. again 4 rotation ... you can also user your drill / impact for this step when you use impact RPM should be super low to avoid oil aeration. 6. most important step, remove 8mm bolt and fill cover again. 7. Tilt your transmission left, right like wave pattern horizontallly in alll direction.. when you do that you will see bubbles comes out and liquid goes down. repeat step 3 to 7 .. 2 times until no buubles or lowering liquid. 8. fill the liquid to top, 9. there is a lip (around 2mm to top) fill the liquid all the way to overflow. 10. install gasket , cover and 8mm bolt.. 11, note when you installing the cover there is a vent hole it should be properly orientated.. take picture of this while removing because vent hole align in both direction .. only one direction is right, that is vent hole should be closer to pulley side. you are good to go.. Ths is the right way. you know you did it right if you dont have growling sound after the flush and you are able to achieve 30 feet in about 6 to 7 seconds at top speed with engine rpm between 2900 to 3100 RPM. just did this today and i do have service manual.. this is per the manual.
Thanks for this, especially the vent hole, I wasn't sure where this was supposed to align to. Should the transmission be completely silent when in use?
@@crisprtalk6963 Vent hole should be closer to pulley of the input shaft.. if you see grinding noise or whinning noise then the fluid is lower. you have to redo it.
I see that you know this like a professional, that's why I want to ask you question. On both sides is the transmission oil seal (91204-KE8-003 part number). On one side of the oil seal is the grass guard (21912-VE5-A00 part number) and pin (90752- VE5-A00 patr number) that holds the grass guard. I haven't seen anyone who explained how to remove the pin and how to change the grass guard and oil seal. I only see one person who said that he would remove the grass guard because he things that it was the grass guard that caused the oil seal to split, but he did not explain how to do it.Can you explain please and Do you think it is a good idea to change the transmission oil seal at the same time when you change the transmission oil or is it unnecessary?
This video was well done. It provided visibility of all hidden components. I plan to R&R my 12 yr old mower and replace parts (belt, hydrostatic oil, wheel bearings, etc). It's a good time to clean, inspect, and lubricate parts. Thank you.
Good video - it showed perseverance. Not everybody has a bench vise and all the tools. Now I know how to change my 2009 Honda HRX 217 tranny fluid. Will review the video and also change the belt while I'm at it. Thanks!
Thanks for the video! Some of the steps aren't needed and you can use a pry bar tool to rotate the transmission to disconnect the belt from the pulley and to disconnect the bed-spring/washing-machine-hanger-spring from the transmission and deck housing. Same goes for reconnecting. Also for the pulley removal, you can use a thick-diameter bolt or rod, which then goes through one of the holes in the pulley, and against a metal surface on the housing- that will keep the pulley from turning and avoids having to use a pipe wrench or vise grip to hold the input shaft. And make sure to follow the air-bleeding steps for the transmission that someone below had posted which is from the manual. Very very annoying mower to work on due to all the small parts, but you become an expert after fixing just one. It's more of an advanced-mechanically inclined repair rather than just for someone looking to follow a RU-vid video with some basic tools- unless you have time.
I see you like to put bolts back in the holes they came from- good idea, as it helps keep them organized. Here is another idea you could try: Use a 12-hole muffin pan (or two) put the bolts/parts in each hole left to right, row by row. Then to reassemble, start and the last muffin hole and work backwards!! Let us know if you try that method out, and how you like it! Cheers, and thanks for a great video.
I just completely disassembled this transmission in order to remove the drive shaft and repair a section of it using my mini lathe. It's pretty cool inside. The transmission contains just two pumps with no gears or physical connections between them other than the fluid. BTW, it not something I recommend doing unless you are looking for a challenge lol.
OR ... instead of taking the entire mower apart ... 1. Get 6mm Allen wrench. 2. Drill hole thru right rear wheel backup plate and two plastic layers (easy). 3. Remove oil plug and set on hill to drain. 4. With slender funnel, fill 7 ounces of Honda trans fluid ($10 for bottle of 12 Ounces). Spin axle while oil goes in. 5. Replace plug. We went from not pulling at all to running behind it. There are two drain plugs. The other is impossible to get to. All easy to see from underneath.
I know this comment is a year old, but do you know if anyone has made a RU-vid video showing this procedure? Did you have to hold the transmission lever in the engaged position while you drained and filled the transmission to fully remove the old oil and completely refill? What you said makes sense. Seems like you only need access to the drain port and then refill through that same drain port.
@@taibiservent Ok so there is a drain port that comes off with an allen key, and a fill port, which is the one he adds the fluid to in the video. I couldn't get the fluid to go in through the drain port, so I ended up having to take the mower apart after all to add fluid through the fill port as the fill port isn't accessible unless you take the mower apart if that makes sense. The fluid in mine was all grey and looked as though water got into it through one of the seals, so I ended up ripping out a transmission from an old Honda Mower I had, (same model) and replaced it, and then my mower ran fine. I talked to a Honda dealer and they said they didn't recommend replacing the fluid in the transmissions unless you add the exact amount, if you put in too much or not enough it may not run properly, so make sure you find out the exact amount of fluid it needs before replacing it
Thanks for taking the time to film this. I got the same type lawnmower and the transmission oil leaked out - I could see the oil on the garage floor where I store the mower; my intention was to replace the transmission but looks like they are hard to find and pretty expensive. I read somewhere that adding new oil will "rejuvenate" the seals. Not sure about that. I'm assuming the reason you fixed yours is similar; could you give an update; is it still working fine? Thanks again
The mower in this video didn’t leak, but made grinding noise, so I decided to do a transmission fluid change hoping to remedy the situation. After the fluid change, the grinding noise went away, and the mower is working fine.
You have to put a socket on the flywheel bolt and hold it while loosening the blade clutch bolt which spins with the engine. Holding the blade wont do anything to loosen that bolt, unless the clutch is engaged. Also, don't jam a screwdriver in the flywheel, it will snap the fins 90% of the time.
NvDubs250 Thank you for your advise. I was lucky enough not breaking anything by jamming a screwdriver in the flywheel, but I shouldn’t push my luck. I actually engaged the clutch but i still cannot loosen that bolt, maybe my clutch is too old and about to slip during mowing in near future
I've been working on cars / mowers/ motorcycles for over 40 years. It takes time to learn. Congratulations 👏 on your successful repair / maintenance. Anybody can critique but comments should be respectful and helpful. Thanks for your video. 🇺🇸🇦🇫 2yrs.
Why did you remove the blade clutch and pulley? You don't have to do that do remove the belt, you just have to remove the clutch cable. That's according to the official Honda shop manual, and I just did it on my mower (after watching your excellent video that gave me some confidence, thank you).
damtor The few RU-vid videos I watched removed them, I felt I need to remove them and I don’t have a Honda shop manual. Thank you for your advice. I will try it in the future if I need to take it apart again
I realized that too later but I'm glad I removed mine as I found the Plate ball control behind the clutch assembly was bad. At least this way he got to see the condition.
I have this exact mower and I'm trying to disassemble the wheel following your video. After I take out the 1st snap ring the washer right behind it does not come out easily like it did in your video it seems that the washer is stuck inside the groove of that shaft where the snappering was and is too small to just simply come out. Any ideas?
I'm not sure which part you are talking about. There is only one flange bolt holding the wheel onto the spindle. If you are talking about the snap rings and washers holding the transmission output shaft onto the deck, I don't remember mine being too hard to remove. Maybe someone before you hammered in a washer, maybe rust has welded the washer to the shaft, or excessive wear and tear has carved a groove on the shaft.
If my memory is correct, the part with a hole which has a cut on the side under my left hand at 31:12 is where the clutch cable goes, and it is a simple clip holding it. I don’t have a plan to take apart my mower in the near future, sorry no new video on it.
These newer self-propel RWD is much different than the HR215 or HR195 series (came in 3spd or hydro tranny); there are two shafts for each rear wheel. I wonder if the older design w/ a single shaft is better bc of less moving parts
I have no experience with other or older design hydrostatic transmission, but this transmission has served the previous owner(s) more than a decade, and still serves me well even before the transmission fluid change, so at least this is a good enough design.
I’ve got a Honda hrx 217 with the hydrostatic transmission on it and It will not self propel unless it’s on the highest 3 settings and when it does self propel it’s very slow. Do I need to refill the fluid? Or is it another part
I would check the cable adjustment first. Maybe for some reason, your speed control is out of adjustment, your highest speed setting on the lever is actually a mid or low speed on the transmission. If you see sign of oil leak on your transmission, you may actually need to refill. Before refill and reinstall, try to find where it leaks and then seal it, otherwise your transmission may quit working soon due to leaking. In the worst case scenario, you may the the unluckiest one that need a new transmission.
Is it possible to change the hydro fluid without removing the entire transmission? I’d love to do this on my old HRX, but not wanting to pull the entire thing out to change it.
The fill port is at the top of the transmission, and I soaked the screws/bolts with penetrating fluid overnight and used large hand tool to successfully remove it. Unlike the HRC(commercial) line, which gives you an access port on the deck near to discharge chute, I fell it would be impossible to fit tools to remove the fill cover.
This is the snap ring plier I used on my mower: www.menards.com/main/tools/hand-tools/pliers-plier-sets/tool-shop-reg-snap-ring-pliers-with-tips-2-piece/2445485/p-1444428098769-c-9156.htm
Around 38:00 in the video, I rotate the input shaft and output shaft to bleed the air out, I add fluid when I see fluid level drop. The transmission works fine after this transmission fluid change
@@yzhang8629 Excellent jobs!! A couple questions...Did you drain the fluid before you refill it? and how much fluid needed to refill it? One bottle or two? Thanks
@@shiau-lingjian4788 Yes, I drained through a drain hole as shown in this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AFYK8qOHcBg.html, I was not able to remove the too cover to drain or fill at the moment of that video, and refilling through that drain hole was not successful. I think you can drain and fill through the top cover as shown in this video. I used about half bottle of the Honda fluid shown in this video.
If you have enough hand-on skills and a good machine shop nearby, I think it is possible but not necessary. If the mower moves slowly, check the adjustment on the speed cable first, make sure it can pull the speed adjusting arm on the transmission to the extreme. If one needs higher productivity from a self-propelled push mower, maybe switching to a ride-on mower is a better choice.
