Best video on RU-vid to resolve this issue. I have to say it was more time consuming than I thought. Breaking down and reassembling would have been a total nightmare for this weekend warrior. Glad I found your video to help guide me through the process. Thank you!
Bob, I watched several videos trying to figure out this and other things. I bought an old HRR216 and bought enough replacement parts to double the price. But I've enjoyed the refurbishing process and know I can now fix anything on my nearly-new mower. (It is a wonderful mower.) By far, yours was the best video I found. I truly thank you for making and publishing this video. If you're ever in town, I'll buy you a cup of coffee and a happy meal.
Yeah, I’ve seen all the negative comments. I guess you can’t please every keyboard warrior out there. I’m glad to hear the video was a help to you. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for this video. Helped me immensely in taking the mower apart and re-assembling it. While I was in mid-surgery, I dropped a bolt and it fell behind the plastic baffle (mounted under the mower). I removed the baffle by taking out 6 mounting bolts. Easy, actually. Found that by removing the baffle, it would have made the entire process easier.
Thank you for posting. I found the layout of rear wheel component stack most helpful during reassembly. It feels like a brand new mower after 4-1/2 seasons of cutting. In my case the thick carbon bushings machined a proud burr around the shaft which effectively pinched the axle causing rear wheel drag. I used a bench grinder and wheel to clean the shaft. I also filled the transaxle gearbox with fresh 5W-30 synthetic. Book calls for 10W-30 filled to 0.3" - 0.5" below the splitline. I recommend purchase and install a new belt if doing all this work. It makes a big difference in how the mower takes off with a slight touch of the smart drive.
great video. I thank God that there are people that are mechanically inclined to take their off time and create videos like this one. Thank you from Wyoming....
Great video and thank u for adding the direct issue in the description of ur video! Could have watched 100 videos before getting to the one I needed. My Honda is doing the same thing. Thought it was the belt but just realized it won’t roll backwards when taking it out of my shed
very sorry to say I have been looking at this for 2+ years and was unsure something simple as grease in the bushings would cure the issue. THRILLED to say, I finally did it. AND IT WORKS, THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
I Appreciated the contents of the video. It gives me the confidence to go Ahead. especially with assisting in putting it back together in correct sequence. I also appreciate some of the comments about the Shaft and sanding have see other video describing that Issue as well. I have had my Honda for about 10 years and this suddenly happened. Certainly willing to do a little work on it to keep it around. Its Ran well all these years. Thanks Again for the Video
Wow, that's some job! And great camerawork. You showed how to remove the height adjuster which is just what I wanted, cos one doesn't work. I couldn't see the bolts inside cos of all the crud. THANK YOU!
Great, detailed video, Bob. It made my decision to get rid of my back-sliding Honda and buy another mower a no-brainer. Just couldn't be bothered with the repair. LOL
Well done. I am in the process of changing out the transmission on my neighbor's HRR series mower. It's about 5 years old. While she was mowing it stopped propelling forward and the wheels locked up and it won't roll backwards. The cable was fine and the belt had about the same amount of slack as my mower (I have almost the exact mower). Because of how it failed, I guessed it most likely was the transmission. I had to take the plastic shroud off to get the transmission out... much smaller holes where the axle goes through. The snap rings have been a total pain. I had to run to Advance and buy another pair of snap ring pliers because the holes are so small. The new smaller pliers still didn't fit in the holes of the snap ring. I had to file the new pliers down. Agh. For sure the transmission is bad. It is seized up and won't turn. Without your video, it would be a much harder job. I don't understand a few of the not so nice critics who have commented. They likely don't have any videos posted. You did a fantastic job. I know you spent a lot of time making it. I did a lot of research before I bought my mower. I won't be buying another Honda. The wheels wore out in just 5 years. I suspect I will be replacing the transmission in mine soon too.
Thank you for the detail instructions, I have to remove cover to remove drive cable and spring. Thankfully, just clean the shaft and bushing to have it move backward normally.
Very well done step by step video! A local mower mechanic of 30 plus years says he doesn't grease drive gears on self propelled mowers, as it attracts more dirt...etc. etc. I agree with you though, a LIGHT coating never hurts!
It seems to me whenever I grease it up, my Florida sand gets stuck to everything and messes things up quickly. I agree with your mechanic also. I always wondered what the right way was. Looks like whatever you prefer I guess.
Your video probably saved me hundreds. Where do I send the cheque.? Lol. One suggestion: when removing the transmission spring, maybe a long 12" wide blade screwdriver to remount the inside top of that spring? I inserted the screwdriver up into the spring and landed on the u-shaped connector then just pushed it up and twisted it on the receiving hole. Thanks again. my unit was the GCV-180. 21"
Thanks for the detailed video, really helps with the assembly sequence. Wish I had researched this mower a little more before buying one, I can promise that I will NEVER buy a Honda mower again! Should’ve bought the Toro SR4 😢
I have to agree. I’ve had a Toro Personal Pace that was 24 years old and worked perfectly. I gave it away and bought a Honda for my new home. Never Again! Defective carburetor right out of the box, and now this! I’m going to fix it... sell it... and buy a Toro
I agree. Honda had a recall on this, not published. I had to dig deep in the web to find it. Took it to dealer under warranty and they supposedly changed the shaft. It still pulled relatively hard. Now it’s skidding the wheels in reverse like this video. The only good thing about the Honda is the mulching, will never buy another one.
thanks for the breakdown.....I have a honda mower as well, with the same problem. I took it to Home Depot to look into it. They sanded the axle and told me that this is a common problem. They said that the wheel bearings need to be replaced. I was hoping you touched on the bearings part of it. But they didn't mention the transmission at all. But you at least show the tear down of the rear wheels, so hopefully I can replace the bearings. I as well won't be buying another. They did the tear down and sanding for me for free, so I certainly can't complain.
William Chang you should be under warranty.. honda has 3years warranty Its normally the bushing inside the adjuster that wears out. Check the Service Bulletin #107. www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/honda-hrr-models-rear-wheels-locking-up-when-pulling-backwards.42592/ That was the problem with mine. I just replaced the complete adjuster assembly with the bushings. Make sure you get the adjuster with the blue mark paint. Good luck
Did mine this week. Couple observations. 1) Newer Honda lawnmowers don't have 2 bolts holding on the axle 'bushings'. You need to remove entire handle system to get them out (10 bolts) (along with other parts). Only reason to take them out is to get at the bigger side holes to put the trans in. Easier way... remove the bottom pan from the trans... drain the oil into a bin. Transmission goes in easy without that bottom plate. Once the trans is in, turn the mower partially upside down temporarily. (Quick with 2 people). Pour the oil back in and re-fasten the bottom plate. Heck of a lot easier than removing both handles and other fooferaw. 2) Spent the better part of an hour to get the clutch spring to engage the tiny hole on the transmission... no luck. Then I got a vice-grip, bent the plate of the transmission up by 5 degrees or so. Spring went right in. Should have been done from the factory. Wheel bushings were not my problem. Transmission had 'frozen up'. Couldn't turn the shaft with a vice grip... and that was out of the mower !! Bought a 'new' original Honda transmission from Amaz. Spent a day putting it in... and the new transmission was pretty defective. Wheels wouldn't roll backwards, even with everything cleaned and lubed. Mowed with it a bit... now they are starting to roll backwards... a bit reluctantly. This is kinda the newest version of Honda... I think I will buy a different mower next time... this one doesn't cut like the last one either, engineering/quality is headed downhill.
Good video. Honda had a recall on this, not published. I had to dig deep in the web to find it. Took it to dealer under warranty and they supposedly changed the shaft. It still pulled relatively hard. Now it’s skidding the wheels in reverse like this video. The only good thing about the Honda is the mulching, will never buy another one.
I found the “hidden recall” as well and supposedly the dealer replaced the shaft as well. Mine still pulls hard and locks up backwards. I also will never buy another Honda, even though they supposedly fixed the issue on new models.
with all the hype how wonderful Honda lawnmowers are this problem exists on ALL honda self propelled lawnmowers and the fix is quite involved. A 500 DOLLAR LAWNMOWER!!! C.R.A.P !
I’ve had mine 8 years and I’ve cleaned the gear mechanism once or twice. I’m ready to get an electric mower. My Ego weedeater is awesome. I’ll sell the Honda and use some of the money for an electric Ego.
That sounds like a solid plan, I have not been a fan of this mower since I have owned it. It runs great, but the engineering behind the drive is horrible. Thanks for watching.
I bought a RYOBI electric mower last year and it is wonderful to mow with. I still have the Honda that runs perfectly but know backing up with it sucks!
I had the same issue.Used as recommended 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid.Pulled up the rubber gaskets on each side and put in liquid in and let it sit a few hours.I had to do this a second time a month later.It pulls much better than before. Not sure if this is the final fix.I hesitate taking this apart to sand the excel and have something go wrong.If it happens again I will try taking it apart in the winter months.
Seriously dude, when in your video did you mention the fix was replacing the transmission? You didn’t fix anything you just replace a part. Update: I called Honda, they claim there is nothing wrong with these transmissions. He mentioned that there are bushings that require maintenance. So I removed the wheels, snap rings, and bushings, cleaned, lubercated with MotorKote and grease. Adjusted the rear wheels as recommended (lockup and loosen 8 turns) by Honda. This solved all my issues with pullback and I think it’s better then new. I’m guessing that perhaps these were dry from the factory. Anyhow don’t forget the wheels have bearings and need oil as well. I suggest if you own this mower to go ahead and do this.... takes about 20 minutes.
I’m not sure if you are asking a question or just making a comment based on what I’m reading. Either way it works now so it is fixed. Thanks for watching.
He fixed the mower, bro. Lots of parts coming off and going back on in a particular order. This video was a lifesaver for me. I would never had gotten all these parts back on in the right order.
I am having the same issue with my machine (wheels locking up) when rolling backward. Did Honda tell you over the phone about the adjustment to the rear wheels (lockup and loosen 8 turns) or is it something that can be downloaded from their website? Thanks, in advance, for your input.
This worked for me. I was able to sand the shaft without removing the transmission. There is just enough side movement to clean it.. I reassembled with anti seize grease. Hopefully it lasts and doesn’t need to be done again.
Bob, thanks for the video. Your viewers should note that the gears that drive the wheels are different on the left and on the right. Take note which is which when disassembling them. Where did you find/buy a remanufactured transmission?
My old 1983 Honda had a sealed belt drive system and after 40 years has NEVER had that problem and continues to function as it did on day one. My newer 2017 model is always jamming up. Took it in for warranty and the mech said all that needs to be done is clean the dead grass that bunches up under the plastic shroud.. When mine does that I clean out the dead grass that accumulated under the plastic cover and it is fixed until the grass builds up again. I have actually considered cutting that shroud right out but the cleaning process has worked so far.
Mine was doing the same thing. The fix was to take out the plastic bushing sand the axle shaft smooth on each wheel, lube the bushings and reassemble. The axle gets scored up from dirt I guess. Sand with 100 grit first then 400, makes the axle smooth again. The transmission does not need to come out. And you only need to take one side of the big snap rings off. The axle slides enough to get the other bushing out. The big ass plastic belt cover needs to come out, along with the bag/mulch door. It took me a couple hours to do mainly because I didn’t know what all needed to be removed to access the big snap ring to remove the wheel adjusters to get at the bushings. Hopefully this will last a 3 or 4 years before it’s time to relube.
its the drive belt being worn out. if there is just a little bit of tension on the belt the wheels will not roll backward. replace the belt and readjust the the cable by tightening the nut until the mower begins to crawl forward on its on. then back the nut up 5 full turns. presto
@@clownfishcanjuggle on the transmission cable halfway down along the side of the handle. This nut is used to shorten or lengthen the cable. Use 2 10mm wrenches to hold one end and turn the other. Once in correct position you tighten the small one back down on it to lock in position
The video was awesome. Picture quality and narrative was spot on! With this video I’ll have no problem with replacement. What caused the reverse issue to begin with? Thanks again
There are many things that could cause the mower not to roll backwards. One of them is the axel shaft being too rough and a simple sanding of the Shafts will repair that. I believe there is a recall on some of these mowers because of a problem. In my case it was the transmission so I just rebuilt it and replaced it. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for the detail video. I am having the same problem with my 1 year old mower. Do I need to remove the entire transmission to get access to the bushing and axle where I can sand it smooth?
No need to remove the entire transmission. I remove wheel adjusters on both sides. There are six snap rings total and that can be the most difficult part of the process. After both wheel assembly and adjusters are removed, sand/clean axle surfaces where bushings bear on. You will have enough play side to side to get to all the areas of the axle necessary. I replaced the wheel adjusters, they came with new teflon bushings. I used the recommended marine grease in the Shop manual. Not a great design and to do all of this you really need to have the mower drained of fuel and oil. The orientation of the mower for this is to upend it in an almost upside down position with the mower handle resting on a table or work bench. The Honda Shop manual actually prescribes most of this as maintenance after so many hours, however the periodicy prescribed in the manual is nowhere close to reality where this may need to be done once per season or so.
@Boogie Man I agree and yes, I would count on doing the routine once per season. If you are lucky with light use you might get a second season before having to do the maint.....a real pain
I saw one of these on craigs list for $80 that had a rough reverse issue so I bought it but instead of disassembling I just kept spraying the axel bushings with PBlaster every time I used and gradually it loosened up over the weeks.
What up.I had my Honda HRR216K10VKAA over 4 years now.Yes,it won't pull backwards.Sometimes it will and mostly it won't.I have replaced the plastic bushings,the plastic dust cap,took the little spring out and cleaned the hole,replaced the dust covers,pinion gear keeps wollering out the hole.Replaced pinion gears,replaced rear tires,the Belt pulley wore out and this is for the speed,replaced belt and pulley,sanded axle,didn't put any grease anywhere,will cause dirt build up.Carburetor quit working,couldn't rebuild,it was real clean,put a new one it and that fixed it.The speed cable is adjusted great.Pulls real fast.The plastic cover under lawn mover got a hole in it.replaced it.I have fixed everything but the issue with it locking up in reverse.So when I pull it back wards,I just lift it up.The little spring and the rachet key is made for pulling it backwards.That is why you have to put the pinion gear in a certain way.The worn part on the pinion gear always goes on the outside cause it lines up with the gears on the tires.I need new rear tires again,They are bald.This Honda is a money pit.The Transmission is not the problem.The problem is the design.One good thing is.I have a 85 Nissan 720 4x4 and the Honda mower uses the same spark plug as my exhaust side.Also uses the same oil.10W30.I have a bunch of extra parts but they wont fix it.I am waiting on some new little springs.A new Transmission is 68 bucks,but that is not the problem.Also have replaced the recoil starter.The rope would not wind back up.I will just keep lifting it up to pull backwards.
My mower is still under warranty. Dealer told me that this is normal and I should just lift the rear wheels off the ground when pulling it backwards. Im gonna get that in writing so when my feet siip under it as i pull it in reverse i have documentation. Thanks for the video, pretty involvrd. Hopefully i can get honda to repair it.
If at all possible, return it! They run great because of the Honda mower but the backwards rolling will always be something to be concerned with. Thanks for watching.
Excellent video! More emphasis needs to be placed on the polished axle portion. I managed to get mine to free up by tilting the mower on both sides and allowing WD-40 to seep in there and I just worked it. I should still go ahead and clean and polish the axle one day but I am up and running for now. Thanks again.
I had a Toro Personal Pace that was 24 years old and worked perfectly. I gave it away and bought a Honda for my new home. Never Again! I like Honda products generally. As a matter of fact, I worked at a Honda Power-sports dealership for 10 years and found the brand to be quite reliable. I have always had Honda motorcycles, and my HS520 snowblower ROCKS and never quits. My HRR lawnmower is an over engineered piece of crap (IMO). Defective carburetor right out of the box, and now this! I’m going to fix it... sell it... and buy another Toro!
Great video! Thanks for posting. Do you mind shareing where you purchased a rebuilt transmisson? and how it's working out so far? Honda is very proud of thier new ones as you know.
You can order online or at a local Honda dealership. You may even be able to get the parts and rebuild it yourself. Hope this helps, thanks for watching.
My HRR216 started doing this today and I bought it right after Labor Day in 2019. So, it's barely used.... I'm taking it into a honda repair shop and having them fix it under warranty. You just shouldn't have any kind of issue like this on a mower that's less 1 year old and hasn't completed 1 season.
I bought mine late last year and they say it's not covered by the recall. My serial # is literally newer than the one's on the list. Tried to charge me $250 so I said I'd figure it out myself. Was quite the chore but I managed it. I'm pretty pissed at Honda right now.
Mine is doing this and hopefully doing this will solve my problem. STILL a good machine ill never buy anything with a B&S motor. My Honds has been good season after season.
Same issue for me. No more Honda mowers in my future. I reverted back to my old Troy-bilt that the Honda replaced by adding new front wheels, blade and tightening the bolts under the air filter to stop a small oil leak. I'm going to remove self-propelled transmission, belt and other parts on the Honda and just make it a push mower as a spare. My yards only 10k sq ft of grass, so no big deal to push it. I could go through all of the steps that the video shows, but it's just going to happen again in the future, because it's a design issue.
My Honda lawn mower used to have the same problem. I believe there are many possible causes of this problem: (1) The control cable that engages the transmission may come loose that causes the transmission is still slightly engaged (to move forward) when it is supposed to be released, and it needs to be tightened up. (2) The attachment point where the control cable is attached to the transmission is on top of the transmission housing; debris may collect there; debris prevents the control cable from fully disengaging the transmission; drill a big hole at the back of the mower and spray jet of water to remove the debris. (3) The half moon key inside the wheel assembly may get stuck because of too much debris inside and that locks the wheel in forward motion; that area needs to be cleaned. (4) This one I have never tried: The surface on the shaft of the transmission is rust and sticks to a bushing and creates too much friction; remove the rust is supposed to fix this problem; I have not tried this myself and I don't quite understand the logic. As for me, I tried all the first 3 methods with various level of success. But eventually the problem always came back after a short period. Had a small engine mechanic to fix it, and no luck. Finally I fixed the problem by doing exactly what you have done - I replaced the whole transmission. This has been 4 years or so and the problem has not returned yet. If the problem comes back, I will try the method #4 that I mentioned above.
Great video very helpful in disassembling the rear end. How exactly do you know if the transmission is bad? I have mine out and the shaft will turn but has some resistance. I know it’s not supposed to turn freely but I’m not sure if mine is turning exactly how it should. I plan to clean the shaft up and grease and all that stuff as well as maybe replace the wheel adjustments since they have been known to have issues. Just hate to do all this and put it back together and the transmission be gone. I have it torn apart now but the mower isn’t worth the cost of the transmission to me. PS nobody told me that snap rings are the devil! Had the right tool (I think) and still spent half of the time trying to get these stupid things off!
The old one was locked up. That is not to say that is the issue with all of them, sometimes it’s as simple as sanding and polishing the axels, sometimes it’s other issues. Thanks for watching.
Most of the time its just the ratcheting mechanism that gets all caked full of crap and doesn't allow the wheels to roll backwards which was the case with this as well most likely, replacing the transmission wasn't exactly the proper way to go about fixing the wheels locked up in reverse problem, that's not the transmission, that's in the wheel ratcheting mechanism...the transmission doesn't have a neutral or reverse...if the wheels don't turn in reverse you need to pull the wheels off, and the gears, clean out the spring as its usually full of dirt which makes everything stick together and not allow the mechanism to release and the wheels to somewhat freewheel, they're going to have a bit of resistance regardless, but they shouldn't be locked up and not spin at all.
@@wildbill23c The ratcheting system is designed to allow pushing forwards with no resistance (wheels turn independently of shaft and gearbox), but pulling backwards, ratchet is designed to lock into the gearbox shaft, so you are dragging the whole axle and gearbox internals & pulley when pulling backwards. So no amount of cleaning those "ratchet" parts will help, since it is designed to lock into place when the engine is rotating the pully to drive it forwards (is the same as when releasing tension on "smart drive" and trying to pull the mower backwards).
I just sprayed a penetrating oil on the axle shaft where the rear wheels contact it , & it now rolls backwards. I do this every time after I mow, so far it's working.Probably would be good to spray before mowing too?
That's all it takes to keep them freewheeling, but usually once they lock up and won't spin backwards at all you have to take the wheels and gear assembly off and clean everything up...replacing the transmission has absolutely nothing to do with the actual problem though.
@@wildbill23c In his case, he said the transmission stopped working, so he had to do this much to get it out and replace it... I agree that the normal problem is dirt, grass, moisture, etc., gets in between the bushings on the axle and this makes it really harder to pull backwards... An absolute terrible design flaw that Honda let happen and they do not even care...
I cleaned and lubricated my wheels, bearings and wheel gears. Put some Kroil in a spray bottle and sprayed the heck out of the shaft bearings and linkages and lubed everything up with 90 wt oil. Worked like new. Half hour job. No parts required.
Check with your local Honda dealer, if they don't have a rebuilt one they should be able to get you a new on if you let them know what model you have. Thanks for watching.
1995 honda hrc 216 commercial ss deck board. Used every weekend for more then 20 years has original wheels and bag starts first pull everytime never had one iszue with it. an absolute Workhorse. I paid over 1200 for it new but wirth every pemny
In this case it was the transmission (universal joint). Not to say that is always the problem but the video may help with disassembly. Thanks for watching.
So how did you fix the problem? It looked like you just took it apart & then put it back together with the same parts. Update on my Honda, I had the same problem it would not roll backwards at all & all I did to fix it was I took both back wheel's off & took some WD-40 & soak it down, sprayed it real heavy where the axle goes into the bearing, let it sit for about an hour & now it rolls backwards like new.
So what if I’ve changed the transmission with a new one and it still does the same thing? At first, after replacing it worked good but a short time later, it will not roll back. Could I have put the washers in the wrong sequence? It pulls great forward but just won’t pull back!
Hi there. My Honda Commercial mower just broke down with a similar problem but its rolls backwards fine, its that when you pivot to the right, the rear right wheel locks up. Pivoting to the left is fine. I also noticed now that the drive sometimes lags a bit before engaging. This must be related to the same problem, but Im not sure what to do. Every tutorial I see on here only talks about wheel lockup when pulling backwards. I would love any tips you or anyone else may have! Cheers
@@funbro1 thanks, I figured it out. Because the right wheel was locking I only inspected the pawls on that wheel. It was only when I decided to take a look at the left wheel that I discovered the broken pawl.
I've replaced bushings, bearings, gears, spacers and washers till I'm blue. So I finally figured out what I needed to do in order to get this problem fixed........SPRAY PISS OUT OF THE TWO WHEELS, SPACERS, GEARS AND SUCH THAT CAN BE REACHED BY LAYING THE MOWER ON IT'S SIDE. No tools necessary!
@@funbro1 Thank your for the video, funbro1. May I ask what was done to correct the problem? I'm not understanding what the actual fix was. Was there a part that needed replacement, or some adjustment that was made, etc? Your disassembly/reassembly will be very helpful. Much appreciated!
@@russgoos4628 The problem is that the shaft gets rusty and binds up in the bushings on either side. The fix is cleaning the shaft ends where they go through the bushings using a couple of grades of sandpaper. The shaft ends should be polished up nicely so the bushings slide on and freely rotate.
Interesting, the long video how to disassemble the mower tranny and assemble it back without explaining what was wrong and what fixed it :-) But, google search is to help. This is a well known problem with Honda mowers. In fact, they even issued Service Bulletin #107 which explains the problem and the fix. You need to sand and smooth your axle. Also, you need to replace these plastic parts which seize the tranny. Better to order new ones. Anyway, just my 2 cents.
Interesting, the long comment on the video that many have used to disassemble, repair, and reassemble their mower. But if you watch again you will notice several fixes were mentioned and the fix for this one ended up being the transmission. Not that that is the fix for everyone but it happened to be for this one. Anyway, thanks for watching.
I just picked up Honda HRR216k6VKA, Problem is that the pulley and the pulley shaft going into the transmission are gone. Previous owner said pulley melted and shaft came out and he tossed them. The tranny i need is 20001-VL0-M00. Does the place you got yours from have any other model trans? I have been looking for days, have not seen any rebuilt ones. Cheapest one i see is 114.00 plus shipping.
Bob....you took things apart, cleaned things and put all back and mower was able to roll back. Great,,,,however, what was the fix? what was the problem? am i missing something?
I have a hrr216 mower that is hard to pull back and after it runs for awhile the wheels totally lock up. I have changed both wheel bushings with height adjusters (so that I would get new seals also) .That didn't work so since I noticed the shaft had some groves and pits that I could not polish out I installed a brand new transmission since Honda says it's the only way I can get a shaft for this model. That didn't work. And btw adjustment to the cable and a new belt replacement have been made to no avail. This time I'm changing the drive pulley that hasn't come in yet and we'll see how that goes. The belt rotates around that pulley when pulling back...maybe this is it. I do no one thing....this mower pulled back just fine when I bought it new four years ago. Oh Ya ..funbro 1....no grease...grease is a no no ...it collects dirt of all kinds. Just clean and dry. Also the spring that connects to the trans and/or the drive cable could be stretched out and not allowing the trans to spring back to a position that allows the belt to slip through the pulley correctly. Once I install the new pulley I'll post whether or not that solved the problem. If not the spring will be next.
Excellent video. Just finished doing mine and the rear wheels unlocked and my smart drive is back working again. However, now that she’s back together I’ve noticed I don’t have the clicking of the wheels when I roll it forward. Is this a big deal? I don’t want to do damage to it. Can anyone help me out? Thanks
If both whells are driving forward when you lift the back off ground then, free wheels when pulled back on the ground, it's OK. The grease in the whl. Drv. Gear quiets the clicking. If a wheel doesn't drive, half moon key and/or spring fell out.
I have a relatively new Honda HRR model (replaced by the HRN I believe), and the back wheels would lock up sporadically since I got it. Searching the web for solutions, I came across this vid. I'm assuming that the mower in this video has a different issue since the back wheels won't move in reverse at all. For my problem, I found that a good dose of WD40 to the rear axel assembly every so often allows the wheels to move in reverse just fine. Even a bonehead like myself can do that.
Dink ding ding we have a winner. Glad you were able to figure out that in this case it was the transmission. That does not mean that it will always be the transmission but hopefully the video will be a help for someone else with similar problems. Thanks for watching.
@@funbro1 Definitely appreciate your posting this fix. Just thought anyone else who had the same problem as myself who came across this vid might benefit from knowing a good lube might be all they need. The wheels not rolling backward easily (or at all) seems to be a 'feature' of Honda mowers. I like the mower otherwise though.
I just did this. What a nightmare! Great video though. I had to beat my axel out with a hammer. It was seized to the shaft. Anyone know where I can get new bushings?
I wish I would have known that replacing the transmission was the fix. I would have done that while it was still under warranty. I'm still dragging mine backwards like a hound dog fighting all the way lol. Thanks
Sorry to hear that, You may not have a bad transmission. Sometimes sanding the axels smooth will help. That is an easier fix so try that first. Thanks for watching.
I fixed mine a while back, but it’s doing it again, very frustrating to have to drag it backwards or pick up the backend when pulling backwards. There should be a recall on it. If I were a cussing man….,?!’”@&$)
Its not. Simply taking the wheels off and cleaning the gear, keyway and spring assembly is all it takes. the transmission has absolutely nothing to do with the wheels turning backwards or not.
This will happen constantly. It's the LAST Honda mower I will own. On my third now, but none are self propelled or roll backwards after one season. This is too much work to do every couple months on a new mower!!!
Why didn't you spin the old transmission backwards when you took it out? (To show problem) I ask because i just did a K6 trans & now I'm looking at a K9 that has trouble rolling backwards and your video seems to be the only one that shows trans replacement for the backwards rolling problem. Every one else's has rust on axels or stuck key-ways. I can't find any videos or forums that mention backwards problems in transmission.
