Great informational video. Very well spoken and narrated. I have never left a comment, until now, on a RU-vid video but I thought I would pass on the 'thanks.' I just had to watch the video once and could do the whole thing. I liked the demos with the two wrenches, as well.
great video I recently just got my motorcycle its a Honda shadow bobber and this video had a lot of great information. I just have a quick question? will a 20w-50 mobil 1 be okay to replace the oil ? its equipped for motorcycle ? I know in the video you got the GM4 10w - 40 but they didn't have that at the store?
I would not recommend a viscosity of 20 W 50 for this engine. It’s too thick and I don’t think it’s recommended. Also, the oil bathes the clutch plates in addition to lubricating the engine. that’s why you want to get oil is made for motorcycles engines. You can order your oil online if you can’t find it locally. I do that for some of my vehicles because I have to use special oil in them.
Forrest, I’m assuming you are talking about the accelerator pump in the carburetor. Is this correct? This is somewhat major surgery since the carbs are mounted between the cylinders. There is really no in bike repair procedure I can think of. You’d need to pull the carbs and reseal them. Before you do that though be sure the leak isn’t coming from somewhere else, like above the carbs, a tube, fitting, etc. these carbs are really reliable. The only time you usually have to pull them is due to leaving gas in them for a long time which deteriorates the seals, etc. there are a lot of videos showing how to remove the carbs. You’ll also find services you can mail your carbs to to get them full refurbished. Again, double verify where the leak is coming from. Leaks can be tricky
No more than once a year. I usually ride 3-4K miles a year. Unless your are putting more than that on your bike you could consider changing it more often.
Yeah you need to change it at least once a year. Used oil gets contaminated from use as well as moisture sitting in your crank case. If it’s not in a sealed bottle it’s exposed to the elements and needs to be replaced. The bike in this video is my wife’s bike. She only drives it a few hundred miles a year but I still change it for the reasons mentioned above
Ryan, there is no fuel filter but there is an in tank fuel screen You’d have to remove the petcock from the bottom of the fuel tank. Since it’s just a strainer I wouldn’t mess with it unless you have a problem that needs to be corrected.
Thanks for taking the time to do this. By the way, do you know where those crash bars came from? I've been looking for a set, but a lot of the major brands don't seem to make them for the VLX 600.
I did the crash bars a number of years ago and I can't figure out where I got them. Ebay only give you the last three years of history. I know I bought them on-line. I've bought a lot of parts from Bike Bandit but I checked to see if they had them and they don't. I think I paid around $150-$170 for them. They work great in that if you drop the bike it doesn't go all the way over. This is my wife's bike and she has a tendency to drop it in an intersection if she doesn't ease out on the clutch in first gear. First gear is too big on this bike. Honda should have made it a five speed and make the first gear low like they did the Rebel. The Rebel has to be one of the best starter bikes. Sorry I couldn't be more help. You can find one that first you just have to search the aftermarket offerings. Thx Jim
@@jimgaskell1833 thanks for the info! Yeah, the one thing I wish I could change about this bike is to make it a 5-speed. That and adding a center stand.
Juan Monsalvo, I’ll look into it. If has one it’s in the fuel line out of the gas tank. Typically it’s integrated into the Petcock. It’s just a screen. Again, let me look into it.
This is what I used in the video but it’s not a good tool for beginners. shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/toughone-engine-strap-filter-wrench-w173c/9013180-p?product_channel=local&store=3070&adtype=pla&product_channel=local&store_code=3070&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI86rl7qmv6QIVi4TICh3fywX8EAQYAyABEgLrDPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
It might be worth while to go to your HONDA dealer parts department and let them get you set up with the right tool, oil, drain plug crush washer, etc. having the right oil filter tool is a worthwhile investment since you’ll need it each year. I always buy our oil at the dealer because it’s specially formulated for a motorcycle
Sorry for the late reply. I'm pretty sure this bike calls for either 10-30 or 10-40. both oil viscosities will work. If you are in a high temperature climate I would go for the 10-40 oil since it has a broader range for the heat. The 10 represents how low the "viscosity" will get in cold temps and the 40 is how think the viscosity will get in high temps. the viscosity changes with the heat of the oil going from low to high. Also, the oil I'm using is made for motorcycles and not cars. you want to buy oil made for motorcycles because the engine oil is also lubricating the clutch. This oil has a special additive for the clutch. Hope this helps.
No it should be okay if you didn’t run a lot on that mixture. Gas in oil can happen during months long storage. Just drain it out, replace the oil and monitor. This happens when the gas washes down the pistons because the carb flooded while sitting (float leak by).
