hey man many many thanks for your video! I managed to undo and redo my carb for a nice cleaning, and now I understand more how the whole thing works, now my bike runs sweet! I'll be happy to order some stuff from your shop one day. keep it up! cheers from France :)
Just want to thank you for the great videos. Thanks to you I was able to clean my carbs last night. I've also ordered your velocity stack, some vacuum plugs and the air fuel mixture adjuster. Thanks again and can't wait to get everything installed myself.
Thank you so much for these videos. Just been gifted a shadow600 with what look like backdraft exhaust. Basic carb/ motor knowledge of vintage mopeds. Your videos give great detail and have boost my confidence to work on my Honda.
Man thanks so much for this awesome video! I've already bookmarked your website and will be ordering the D-Shaped Bit and the Long Handled A/F Mix Screw...! This is THE best video on the vlx 600 carb on RU-vid
Your video has helped me immensely, thank you! I just put on a new single carb on a 2006 Honda Shadow 750 also a new petcock. Prior it would only run w/choke on and took the advice of being a float bowl issue. Instead of rebuilding carb I just purchased an after market one. I took pictures and notes plus watched you video as well and put the carb in. Started right up runs good. The carb has a long hose coming out of the bottom of float bowl cover on bottom of carb. I didn't have any hose coming out of the original. What is this for? Again.. THANK YOU
Hey TJ, quick question. I noticed the tuning sheet says to do two of the washers per needle but in this video you are saying one washer. Should I start with one and add the other one if that throttle stage is lean?
Great question! Most folks end up using 2 shims (washers) under the head of the needle, however, due to elevation you may not need both shims. if you go too rich right out the gate it can be harder to go back to lean, plugs can get fouled. if youre under 3k feet above sea level id say go with 2 shims, but above that, you may need one or none.
TJ, thanks bud for this video. I can't stress enough how, even with a manual and numerous on-line info, your video truly makes for the "likes of me" to get this done. More success to you in 2014! Just don't get a big head like the OCC clan when you hit the success meter. Have a kick ass New Year bud!!!
Great video! Was wondering about the part where you say to plug off radiator hoses. one goes into cylinder and the other one comes off radiator. so does that mean you take the one coming from radiator and attach to master cylinder cause plugging both of them means no antifreeze goes to master cylinder. Just confused. Thanks and really appreciate the help!
I too am confused about this and also with the carb connection. did you remove the 2 valves or plug them or plug where they used to be on the carb?? any info would be greatly appreciated!
Great video if you follow all the instructions like this video it would definitely work with no problem, when you order this parts just be patient but it would get there. Great website and customer service
Hello! Just found your website, and videos. Love them. Just rebuilt my carb a while back, any reason I should plug those vacuum lines? Was kinda confused about that part. And I'm definately getting that long handle A/F handle. The D shape one is stupid. Good job Honda. Haha. Thanks man.
In a lot of TJ’s videos, he talks about all the stuff you can take off your bike. Anytime you have a vacuum line that you remove, you have to trick the bike into thinking they’re still they’re so the bike runs properly. Any line that is drawing in pressure, you can use a vacuum plug. Any line that is exhaling, you usually use a bolt-style plug or a hose with a bolt and a hose clamp. Vacuum leaks make your bike run like shit
What benefit do you notice bending the tab on the accelerator pump, giving full motion. Does this just increase WOT? Just curious the reasoning behind this, thanks!
Can you make a video on the long handled air/fuel mix handle that you are selling on your site? It will be nice to see it on the carb when its off the bike & in action, adjusting it while the bike is running. I am sure many of us that had to deal with the tiny D-Screw would like to see this video before buying it form your site. thanks.
MItchell, any time you change the intake or exhaust of a bike you will need to adjust your air/ and fuel delivery accordingly. if you had the pipes installed by a local shop or dealership they most likely already tuned the bike, but thats not a guarantee. you can do a plug chop and inspect your plugs to give you an idea of whether you need to re-jet or not. its not as exact as a dyno test but it can give you a basic idea of whether you are running too rich or too lean overall. other indicators of running rich or lean, backfiring, coughing through the carb, stumbling, dead spots in the throttle, loss of power, racing idle, overheating, if you dont have any of these symptoms, its doubtful you have any serious issues. however to really tell get the bike to a shop with a dyno and have it tuned professionally. or if you are the DIY type, you can re-jet your carbs yourself. typically a more free flowing exhaust will necessitate a larger main jet, and some adjustment with your air fuel mixture screws.
Hey TJ. Love your channel Can you tell me if the screws on the aircut-off valve can be removed without carb removal, also if they are factory JIS . My bike is a 2007 vt750c2 with a single carb. Any help is much appreciated.
Hi nice video! Can the accelerator pump spray nozzle be replaced or deleted? Mine was clogged, I tried to press it out and it broke. Luckily it now sprays and the carb works now, but I would like to replace it if possible.
My exhaust is straight piped. What size pilot/main jet should I be running. I believe the ones in mine are stock and my bike pops out the carb and pipes when idling
so I know you made this video a long long time ago but I am hoping you're still watching the comment section. I inherited a shadow 600 that had been sitting for years. The tank and bowl were both really bad. This video really helped me get the bike sorted. When I had the carb apart I noticed some weird things. Mine is one of the models with the Throttle position sensor and the coolant inlets just fyi. 1) the accelerator pump circuit seems to have a brass plug on the bowl side. Is that a spring or something that will pop up and allow fuel to go up into the accelerator pump nozzle in the throat of the carb? 2) is there a way to remove the seat for the needle? because of the corrosion I had to polish it with 600grit and it seems to be ok but it's gotten stuck in the closed position. I'm going to replace the needle with a rebuild kit but I'm worried the seat is toast.
I'm not sure if this question will reach anyone. The two hoses on the back that you reference at the very end of this video, leading to the radiator and the manifold. After we plug those two ports what do we do with the hoses? Can they be removed entirely or do the hoses coming out of those said locations need plugged or re-routed? Thank you in advance. "Wookie"
quick tip for riders looking to go open carb/velocity stax, watch your pant legs lol mine gets sucked in the carb on take off and cant be sketchy when pullin onto a highway, idk how it is on stock footrests but with my extensions it sux my calf part of pants in...just a little heads up
i just got your stack as of yesterday but have been running no filter with the rubber grommet from the filter box only, and yea i wear pants on the baggy side so at dead stop there's loose pants, it sux enough to stall it depending on how fast you react and how hard your on the throttle lol
Do you have an on-bike replacement video of the stock mixture screw for your extended mixture screw, and demo of adjusting it with idle drop? If I can see it work I’ll buy one for my 750, the single carb adjustment screw is in a wonderfully awful place.
@@TJBRUTALCUSTOMS I’m talking about the idle drop procedure with the mixture screw where you adjust back and forth and find the highest smooth rpm with the mix screw, then go to the speed adjustment. It’s a pain to make the mixture adjustment with the D shaped screw and it would be nice to see the longer screw demonstrated.
Just ordered your Long-Handled Air-Fuel Mix Screw, and d-socket adapter. Looks like I might be able to remove OEM air-fuel mix screw and install the Long handled screw, without removing the carburetor, I hope :) I realize there is a o-ring washer and spring to deal with.
What a great video, you have simplified a lot of things about carburetor and i've learned a lot! I have a question, i want to do this tu my shadow 750 but i have an hypercharger kuryakyn, is there any posibillity to keep it working in my bike?
Hey TJ I just ordered the jet kit and the air-fuel mixture extender screw this bike I've got the 2007 single carb Honda Shadow 600 hopefully this right here will make my world go yeah it seems like it's running lean got an aftermarket air cleaner and short headers on it I think this right here should do it by watching your video I like it good deal dude I like you hell yeah bugs in my teeth smile on my face I'll let you know if I have any problems but I enjoy your videos that's the way to do it sell what you sell right hell yeah bikers Balls to the walls...😎
Hey guys I got 2002 shadow ACE had it rejected because I bought it with no baffles in exhaust it back fires on deceleration I was told to put new pipes on it to stop it but I like the sound any suggestions how to get the backfire pop out thx guys
@@TJBRUTALCUSTOMS I bought it and the baffles was gone so I took it to my Honda dealer and they sync my carbs and rejected them they told me only way to get the backfire out was to replace my pipes the bike r uns great other than that
What is the advantage to bending out the metal thing past the stopper? Also what did you plug the vacuum lines with? Thanks in advance. Awesome video man!
Hello I have exactly that carb and is leaking fuel into my intake, I suspect the needle is to blame for that...any advise? by the way my tha vacuum petcock failed too...and I got a big fuel mess all over
I just odered a kit off your website i have a vlx600 but the kit i ordered said it was vt600vlx&vt750 is the performance kit the same the one i got had one air fuel knob 4 main jets two slow jets and two shims
There are multiple models of vt600 and vt750. I don't know what you have or what you ordered but if you reach out to customer service, they are super sweet and will help you out! You'll also want to check out our recent video "dual carb vs single carb" it will help you identify your bike. You can reach customer service through the contact page- shoptjbc.com/pages/contact-1
@@TJBRUTALCUSTOMS I got the right one I got a 1999 vlx600cd deluxe single carb and the one I ordered was for a vt600vlx single carb it will work just fine thanks for the super fast reply your on top your game bro I'll let you know how it turns out plan on getting a lot more from ya
Hey TJ! on the back (engine side) of my single carb vlx600, in between the bowl and fuel screw, there is a small diameter brass nipple that comes out of the body at an angle, pointing downwards , is this the overflow tube? I don't see it on the carb in your vid here. THANKS!
when your adjusting your carb on the vlx 600 single carb, your starting point on air and fuel mix should be from seating point out 2 and half turns, right? and if so, you will be making adjustments driving down the road, right? ok. what am i looking for when im making adjustment driving down the road, and when do i make the adjustment in or out ?.... thank you for your patients.. ps. def ordered adjustment screw. cant wait for it to get here....charles from south ga
***** thanks bud. i can say this about you. your vary patient with our question. just dont go crazy with our questions...lol lol . thanks again, charles
I have a 2002 VT600C and needs a motor. Every motor I find the holes where the carb connects are offset... The old motor they are lined up... Can you point me in the correct direction of what motor I need or if there is a different boot connecting the carb for certain years? Thanks!
I recently purchased a carburetor rebuilt kit from you for my 2001 Honda shadow 600 stock pipes without baffles. what stage re-jet? can I also use the same stage setup if I cut my pipes and add tips
So I have a quick question. I'm going to be running a velocity stack and the boot burners on my 2000 Honda VLX 600 at about 4000 feet elevation so the air is a bit thinner up here... The question is what jets should I really be thinking of going with? I'm getting mixed responses from locals and it seams like you know more about these carbies than anyone else around here... I've been told a 135 main with a 50 slow for the setup I am going to be running... Tommy Stiles
I have a steed vlx400 my standard exhaust has a linking pipe too both mufflers I was wondering could u cut this off and weld the mufflers back up and would it make any difference too the sound thanks 😊.
Hey I recently chopped the exhaust before the mufflers on my 2000 600vlx and am experiencing some power loss, would you recommend these mods to fix the issue?
Thank you for all the tips and advice. My bike is running great. One question , does the air/fuel screw adjusts air or fuel? I got it running nice but it took me a couple of tries mainly because i dont know this. By the way i have a single carb vt750
It controls the fuel, the rule of thumb for air/fuel screw is as follows, when the screw is located on the engine side of the carb then it controls the fuel, when it is in the opposite side of the engine then it controls the air.
Great video! Does modding the accelerator pump like you have shown by bending the stop allow for quicker acceleration? Is there any negatives with doing this and why does Honda have the stop in the first place? Thanks.
the bending of the accelerator pump stop allows for a bit longer dwell when you roll the throttle. When the throttle is rapidly opened, airflow through the carburetor increases immediately, faster than the fuel flow rate can increase. This transient oversupply of air causes a lean mixture, which makes the engine misfire or "stumble". an effect opposite what was demanded by opening the throttle. This is remedied by the use of a small piston or diaphragm pump which, when actuated by the throttle linkage, forces a small amount of gasoline through a jet into the carburetor throat. This extra shot of fuel counteracts the transient lean condition on throttle roll-on. bending out the accelerator pump allows for a bit larger squirt of fuel into the intake, at wide open throttle with a heavily modified intake/exhaust a longer squirt means you will get enough fuel to get a nice boost when riding at higher speeds and you need to hit the throttle quick to get out of a tight spot. There are no negatives to this modification. honda put the stop in in the first place because A - the epa was really harsh when it came to the exhaust output on these machines and honda did everything under the sun to ensure the exhaust ouput would appease the epa. B - the bike is jetted very lean when stock. usually containing a 45 pilot jet and a 125 main jet, though i have heard fo variations. too much fuel from the acceleration pump with these stock jets could potentially result in a rich condition. however if you are moving up to a larger pilot/main, lifting a needle, then increasing the output of the accelerator pump is not a bad idea.
Tommy Stiles Thanks for the explanation. I wanted to try it with stock exhaust and jets before I make any other changes. I will let you know what I find. If the mixture seems to rich, could I make that adjustment with the pilot mixture screw? In the end I plan on putting on the boot burners but wanted to try this for fun first.
Tommy Stiles tommy whould it matter in any way instead of bending that tab if I was to just cut some of it off with a dremal to clear the the post in the carb?
Hey bro, first off awesome vid!! Very informitive. I have a quick question though. I just resently bought an 05 vlx 600, it has sat for awhile so i drained all of the old gas put fresh in. It smells like its running rich, so i bit the bullet and pulled my first carb, it has 45 main jet no number on slow, and 1 shim with the c clip on 4th notch. Bike has cobra long shots and k&n filter. My question is what do i need to get to get this thing running better?
Intake wise is just stock with kn filter. Ive taken both jets and slide out,looks pretty dirty with a good amount of varnish. He had the 1 washer on top of the needle where the 8mm plastic holder and spring were, not through it like you did, is this correct or no? Thank you for pointing me in the right direction.
Hi TJ, I have a question...After doing this, even if the bike runs "good" how do I know if the bike is too lean or too rich? Is there a way to tell? I ask because my last bike was running "good" but it was too lean and it actually started to melt the valves because it was burning too hot (i'm no mechanic but that's what I think it was happening) So, is there an "easy" way to tell? Or it's something only a trained mechanic could spot? Cheers from France!
Hi, I'm from Russia, I want to buy this kit from you . I realized that it increases the power and allows the motorcycle to fully use the free space in the cylinder. In other words, the resource will decrease , but the power will increase ? Sorry, Yandex translator.
? For ya, I read alot about the vlx 600 hole saw mod and was thinking of doing it but I can not find a definitive answer as to the need to rejet after doing so. Any input would be appreciated
I had taken my carb apart and basically did everything you've stated in this video. I did find the smaller jet to be clogged. Could this be the problem as to why the bike would die out when I gave the bike some throttle?
I have a 1997honda shadow vt600vlx and a polychain 1792-21 and the sprocket on Trans is got a wobble is it supposed to have a bolt in center of it cause mine has a hole their but no screw and can't get it off
on the auto peacock delete screw that I bought from you guys.I know it deletes the vacuum hose from the motor but can I take off and delete the petcock completely after its plugged
I have one question. .... shadow 98 - 2 carb. ( the carbs are smaller than the the single type ?( single type is double size ?) ) could i change this ( put 2 single carb type and have more performance ) ? thanks. ( sorry 4 my poor english ) .
I have 2000 Honda shadow. 600cc. Bike was running lean. Has k and n. And Drag pipes. It was running very lean. Had 125 jet. And 45 pilot. Changed to 135, and 48. Altitude is 4500 ish. Will only do 65 to 70 mph. My old 02 would go 95. All stock. Pulled a plug. Still white. Then heard u need to shim the needle. Remove needle and there's no shims period. I thought it had one from the factory. Since I did not have shims. I used a ring terminal and cut the ring off. But I could only fit 1. But wanted to do 2. But I'm not sure how thick the shims should b? 2nd. Besides buying the kit for the idle mixture. What can fit in there to adjust it. Idling pretty rich and burning my eyes lol. Thanks a ton. Hope I gave enough info.
***** pipes turning yellow and blue. Low power. Won't hold 70 mph with out going down a hill. And spark plugs indicate lean. Carb is clean no varnish, debri, etc. The ring terminal is the same diameter as a shim. And I'm trying to see if it's an issue as a test. To help my issue. I knw it's not proper. But working with what I had. It does idle rich. But no top end power. Bike has 14k miles. As far as?my reasoning for the pilot jet. Used an online calculator plus a known running other bike. And 48 was what was in it. I understand every bike is different. But runs perfect in lower rpm. The only thing I haven't checked is if maybe someone rear geared it and it's maxing out rpm wise
Hi, I am a new subscribers, can you tell me how high I need to adjust my idle on my honda shadow VT750 Aero to not cause any damage or wear to the engine. I only can hear the sound I don't have any other tools to see the RPMs. Waiting for your feedback.
TJ Just finished Re-jetting with your single carb kit and I am one happy camper. i left coolant lines but i see what you mean about them being stupid clutter. Hell of a time getting the retarded 'D' shaped screw out, but fantastic results. Great video!
Having a problem with gas overflow in carburetor I have gravity-fed petcock and if I do not turn it off it overflows into the motor what could be the problem
Hi TJ hope your still in action sure love your videos they are a great help :) I was just rebuilding a VT600c 1991 the engine is not running as it should my radiator cap looks guwwy green with bubbles, so guest i blew a gasket i bought a good engine 1988-89 for 130 Euros so thought i'd take it apart build it up from scratch,, but when i opened the cylinder cover it just looked beautiful no smelly no oil so going to check compression if its ok ill put in this one in my bike...my question too you is ...what is the size of that single carb your hold in the video?...38-40mmCV or ? can you tell me more about is it a good idea to change my VT600c 1991 with a 1988-89 engine and use a single carb? I have to make a manafold single carb won't fit on a 88-89 engine maybe you have something laying around hihiihi keep up the great videos there a big insperation to me and i think alot of VT fans around the world..greetings from a big Dutch fan:)
Mine is Steed 400 VLX, how if I change my dual stock carbs Mikuni 34mm with Keihin PWK 35 Sudco Quad Vents Air Striker for each cylinder? Would it perform better dude?? Based on my experience in my modded FZ16, flatslides conventional carb performs much better than vacuum carb, but got worse mpg...would it works the same in my steed 400 dude?? Thank before..
i have a 2002 honda shadow vlx600c im having a problem with flooding. carb pops on me when im at low speed. like turning . i took the stock breather off. after the bike is off. gas was flooding the carb. in the morning once all gas has evaporated. it fires up just fine. the bike stalling out on me at a red light has just started. im thinking the needle and seat is staying open. i watched your video. im impressed. i feel like i need a rebuild kit for my carb. any thoughts on this issue..
YES to your theories! the needle is not completely seating thus allowing the carb to overflow. be careful! if the bike on on the kickstand, the excess fuel will flow in to the rear cylinder causing a hydrolocked condition! not fun! You have a single carb model, on the single carb models you can remove the needle seat portion of the float valve. easiest thing to do is pull the float out, pull the needle out, replace the needle, and then take some q tips in a drill, using some carb cleaner first, rotate them inside the needle seat, then use some mothers on the Q tip in the drill to polish up that seat. there is a very small contact area and the q tips will be able to clean and polish that area, removing the built up varnish. I would also recommend installing a fuel filter if you havent already. oftent imes the needle is just mis-shapen, or debris (rust, tank lining, cigarette butts, dead sealife) has gotten stuck in the float valve and is allowing gas to be pushed up and out of the carb. i actually just put up float bowl gaskets, and float needles on the website =) good luck!
