When you have to do any simple ST1100 job you need half a dozen large hooks up on the wall to hang all the plastic in a safe place. Then realise the panels have bungs pushed through rubber grommets plus there are cross head screws (different sizes ) M6 bolts and I think M5 bolts and also Allen Keys all mixed up and going rusty .Very little standardisation at all .One thin strip overlaps another panel .You can`t tell which goes on first or second .Then the side panels are locked down under the false tank cover . Nothing is numbered or indicated as you delve deeper .Stuff is scattered all over the place. My ex police bike had half the screws left out .Somebody even used a rivet to save time on some plastic .Make a careful note of which overlaps what so you can count them all back in again. Order a bag of M6 and M5 stainless bolts for spares .That`s a nice cheap way to save torment .I just wish I had longer legs to ride it instead of my son .
yes, i feel your pain, can waste a few hours taking all the plastics off an ST, its a back to front process, but it is a joy to ride, can cruise all day
Just what my son needs to know . Very grateful .I would design a bike so all the plastic bits would pull off with a long strip of Velcro .2seconds flat per side .Lovely dream . How would it stay on with velcro? Well ,position a series of solid loops poking through the plastic and use cable ties all along . No screws .Snip,snip , snip , front to back . Lovely . So far there are broken plastic stubs that have already been replaced with cable ties. He got there before me .
Been wanting to buy an ST1100 for 3 years and now I have finally found a potential seller, even two of them actually! Looking through your maintenece videos to see what I should expect and how to solve them. So I appreciate the work and videos you've provided.
Thanks LucklessCope, appreciate your comment, i have learn't as i have gone along with this bike, there was lots wrong with it, luckily the main 2 items to check are the swingarm and the exhaust as they can rot, especially the swingarm, but the ones on mine had been replaced so a sigh of relief on that one
Hi.. I'm looking for advice..I have a 94 st1100.. when driving in stop start traffic in town the temperature goes up..also it's not pulling well between 3- 4000 revs.. someone mentioned head gasket failure...any thoughts please? Cheers
Hi, due to my NT700V being a bit screwed I was researching on my next bike and the ST models (1100 or 1300) came up as the best candidates. It is impressive what you are doing and in my opinion bit overwhelming as a viewer. But now you are teasing me to get it, lol
I had the overheating issue not long after getting my 2000 ex police st11. I hadn't heard of the problem till then so had a job finding the cause till I was sat in traffic watching the temperature gauge go up, I spotted a wisp of steam rise from below the right side of the top yoke. Did some more internet searching and came across this cracked overflow pipe issue. Sure enough, that's what it was, it had split just below where it pushes onto the thermostat housing. Chopped it off, refitted, still going strong.Had similar gunk round the cap whilst recently giving the bike an overhaul. It's just fluid drying out in my case where the bikes been sat in storage with a seized alternator for two years.
Thanks Richard, as you will see in later videos, i replaced most parts and changed the thermostat switch to one from a Deauville that cuts in earlier, so far no problems which is good
When I had to sort out my radiator, I found it easier to remove all the body work (mine was completely rotten). Given the apparent state of yours I think it would be best to remove the radiator and flush it out completely and check the fins as well famous for getting blocked with road crud. If you are changing the air filter there is also a small filter at the front of the casing. Ed
Thanks for the advice, i appreciate your comment, i will be changing the air filter, going through everything i can, if i miss something please point it out, thanks
This is called 'sub-air filter' and is small, rectangular piece of foam inside a box in front of the main filter. Known to disintegrate (as the one that came with my bike did) - obviously not good as bits could enter carbs (?) so definitely check this out. My mechanic was completely ignorant of this thing (cleaned and oiled my K&N - without being requested to by me - grrrr - and when I had a look after reading about it what was left of the 'sub-' was in bits.) This guy also failed to recognise elevated temp problem ("normal characteristics of motorcycle" he said) which was later cured with simple renewal of radiator cap/thermostat (can't remember which but think it was former.) Useless git. Beware of ignorant mechanics!
Hi, thanks for your information..I have a problem ( hesitation when I accelerate between 3 and 4 thousand revs) it could be the filter you mentioned..also temperature goes up when riding round town
Fantastic bikes, but yeah, all that body work. Once exposed they're not too bad to work on, and the maintenance schedule isn't overly demanding. Ride safe, ride fun, Brother.
Dont worry about a new panel mate just plastic weld it back together Delboy has a few tutorials on this subject. If I can do it anyone can. Good vid tho :)
Wearing a Norton shirt while working on a Honda! Great :-D BTW, I have an st1100 and just love it. I've never had overheating issues but will check out your videos on it. Many thanks!
Thanks Robert, unfortunately the BSA shirt was in the wash, i like all bikes, yes the ST is a great bike, shame mine needs so much work, more to come soon , the overheating is a nightmare, as you will see when i do the clutch, also changed the rad temp sensor, that made a big difference
I haven't watched all the way through but If you need a radiator you might be able to get a new one from East End radiators in Glasgow? Some time ago a guy up there did what you seem to have started and decided his original was shot to pieces. Apparently they copied his original and made 5 replacements. I bought one a couple of years ago (£250) and was seriously impressed since it is gonna last waaay longer than the rest of the bike. It's made of brass so heavier than OEM but will never corrode...
As guide the fan should come on just over half to 3/4 way on the gauge though as long as the indication remains in the normal range all should be well. For anyone doing just a coolant change you only need remove the grey filler panel. Another thing to watch is that two of the hoses go into the V under the carbs and the elbows they attach to are prone to cracking. Only way to check them is to remove the carbs. The thermo switch on the radiator can also fail which will also lead to overheating.
They are held in place by the fake tank cover, the rear ones go through the the loops in the frame at the back of the tank cover, the front are underneath the front of the cover where the 2 bolts are that hold it
most tank bags have them, mine is a Nelson Rigg tank bag that has magnetic as well as straps. but with the ST having a plastic dummy tank i use the straps
@@TheAmateurBikeBuilder Hi, just found I've no torque settings for the clutch - Haynes manual gives only for centre nut. Do you remember what is it for clutch cover and release plate bolts? Thank you
Check my vides on my channel which I have a few on the ST1100, But from looking at the radiator cap the jelling is clogging up the thermostat and restricting water flow, I recommend removing all your cooling components and do a through flushing and change the thermostat. Also with the numerous screws I found it easier to keep up with them to use some peanut cans and label the tops with a Sharpie marker. Wish you luck and take your time.
I have a 1993 ST1100 in Canada that I bought new and it still looks brand new so what did the previous owner do to that thing . I do all maintenance on my bike so i change the oil every year and the gear oil too ,,,then wash it
Cheers Omega, i have no idea what previous owners did or rather didnt do, if you watch the rest of the series, more horrors pop up, its getting there though and getting better
@@TheAmateurBikeBuilder I was hoping to see how to tune the carburetors as they are a little finicky and need it from time to time. Mine were done some time ago which made it insanely fast but it's getting sluggish
I have a 98 ST1100 and had to remove the carbs and clean them also the jets, but I forgot to count my turns inward before I removed them, Can you assist on how many turns you recommend over the manual for my model which states 2.5/8 turns outward, your advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Max, unfortunately i didn't touch the carbs, i would personally go with what the manual says, this is my first time working on an ST1100 so still learning as i go , sorry i cannot help more
@Max1Chase1, 2 5/8 out is just a starting point. If I remember right, you wined the pilot in or out to get max revs, fine rev counter needed. then back it out 50 rpm lower to get a slightly lean mixture so you get a complete burn within the cylinder. I'm about to do this myself as I had to strip and clean my carbs and replace blocked slow jets, fortunately I have the specialist tools to do it. Are you in the UK?
Thanks for the feedback Richard, You are right 2 5/8 is the starting settings, I will first do another synch on the carbs just to be sure and then screw the jets out looking for the 50 rpm increase per carb. I don't think the carbs need cleaning because it ran like a champ prior. I am in the U.S. state of Virginia, Its good that sharing of info can come from far away lands, its all about the ride right :), WIll provide feedback on my turns and how the tuning came out. Again Thanks everyone on the support and words of wisdom.
@@max1chase166 Should you need/want the honda pilot screw tool I have a brand new one for the US market which is completely useless to me as the UK/rest of world except USA use a cross head pilot screw whereas the US use a D type.
Thanks Henk, it has only done 45000 miles, but the previous owner did not look after it, so was in a bit of a mess, its getting better as i get more jobs done
Thanks for the comment Bruno, i thought i had, but looks like i need to go back in, also the clutch needs replacing and i will check the 2 hoses under the carbs, so will revisit it in the New Year
Thanks Flexjay, yes we can get distilled water, this bike was in a right state when i bought it, the previous owner didn't look after it so there was a lot wrong with it
I'd bet the coolant has expired -most fluids have a lifespan...and coolant additives are NO EXCEPTION... given the inaccessibility and the overheating behavior - together signal it's FLUSH RINSE AND FRESH REFILL TIME...YOUR RAD CAP IS FINIS...LOL
I replaced the overflow pipe which had a split just out of sight round the back.The new pipe is silicone material with reinforement .Make sure the pipe is not stretched as it joins the thermostat . Keep an eye on that hot connection and simply change the whole pipe regularly . That`s a nice cheap job . The overflow bottle is awkward to see with panels covering it . Make a slot in the plastic to see the max /min level lines .
