it happen to me,when i cleaned my civic 2006,trust me,it will take more than a couple of driving,start the car in morning it goes to 3500rpm in idle,when you driving rpm goes up and down,3 week after the computer didnt ajust by him self,i bough autel scanner for 100$,came with one free licence for 1 year,i just clicked on throtle body check,few seconde of loading,follow the procedure shut the car off,start the car boom,everything went to normal,i was very happy with scan,i even reprogramme another key ,so now i have two,just to say,it depend for me,i taut it gonna fix by itself did nt happen
Why are you making a video about this if you not giving crucial info. “Get our your trusty procedure book” where do I get one of those for a 10th gen civic. How can I get the civic to repeat idle without the scan tool.
MOST OF THE TIME JUST DISCONNECT BATTERY FOR 10MIN OR SO TO RESET ECU. THEN START AND LET IDLE A FEW TIMES, DONT PUSH GAS PEDAL AT ALL. ONCE WARM TAKE A RIDE.....GOOD TO GO
This video was absolutely useless to me. (And for many other people in the comment section too.) Thanks Goss! NOT! You didn't even bother to answer anyone's questions in the comment section, (that would've been helpful) so many of us are still in the dark about this "preventative maintenance" for cleaning the throttle body. I'll look elsewhere on RU-vid for answers.
The best video on throttle body cleaning and reason why idle change after cleaning is well explain. Look for 'Car Care Nut' video entitled throttle body cleaning. He even tell what not to do...
For those that think they don't have to worry about damaging their throttle body valve because theirs is controlled by cable, check again! Your throttle cable may only be there as a "limp home" option in the event of wireless valve-control failure. If not sure, err on the safe side and either have someone in the vehicle press the accelerator pedal or use a wooden stake to keep it pressed down to keep the butterfly valve open for cleaning.
Hi, please i need help to solve a problem on my honda 2017 CRV LX. The vehicle drags when you press the accelerator for more power around 15mph and around 40mph. This delays the vehicle power and does not respond fast and is dangerous if overtaking. At times, if i press the accelerator hard fir more power, it losses power enturely unless i park the vehicle and restart.
Appreciated. However, sir, you didn't tell anyone anything about how to actually clean anything, or even what to use product wise. No hints, tips, or tricks. Just a reprimand and go read a book? Ok.
Ok, so will the car relearn by itself, or is there a relearn procedure I must do? And if I have to do that, have you done a walkthrough video on a relearn procedure? Link? Thanks
Yeah lol and do you just do a basic reset on a basic scan tool and the computer relearns or what? Can people who don't have a scan tool just disconnect the neg. on the battery and it will relearn? Not everyone has a service manual for their car and they are not always thorough at explaining. Hard to believe that the ECU would not eventually relearn regardless.
All my attention was on the screen on the background with the misspelling of "Carburetor". What the hell is a "Caburetor". It bugged me throughout the whole video and did not pay attention to a single word the man was saying.
That's what I did. Removed negative cable for 7 minutes. Turned on headlights switch to the on position.With the battery disconnected still,that will remove any residual power. And boom bang reconnect. All is good SCOTTY kilmer showed this trick.
Hi I cleaned the throttle body and the idle went about 1k and the engine light came on. How do I adjust the idle manually, also, can I just reset the engine using the Reset Step shown in the owners manual?
Bought my mvmdx at like 225000 I think now I'm at 250000. I don't have a scan tool yet and I need to do a valve adjustment, will do a TB cleaning along the way. Is there an app for a scan tool or is there a chance I won't get a high idle after working on the car?
The throttle body was cleaned and reset, but the car engine was vibrating after about two days, when the transmission was at d or r, and the throttle was reset again, and after about two days, the vibration was back on again, so what is the solution?
Recently i change my engine house pipe and the mechanic put some spray at throttle body ..after tht my engine light's showing and my car couldnt have pick when i put rews gear my car vibrate..but when trun off my car put out bettery wire then restarted then my car become normal and perfect..so can u tell me whts actual problem in there
I don’t have a ECU scanner but i want to clean my throttle body and i know the honda idle relearn procedure manually. Do i need ECU scanner or can i just do the whole process without the scanner?
Make sure you only use throttle body cleaner on throttle bodies, because carburetor cleaner for example, is too aggressive and may damage a throttle body.
I just had my oil changed and the air filter was also quite dirty (dusty country roads) so they also changed that. I heard them vacuuming out the filter compartment during the process. Immediately upon leaving my car went into limp mode with the check engine light on. I slowly made my way back and they connected the scanner and determined it was a throttle body issue. They cleared the code and it ran fine for the balance of the day. (multiple starts and stops with about one hour of driving time) I suspect a bit of contamination made its way into the throttle body to cause the code, but then passed through. The code remained in place which is what caused me to go into limp mode. Clearing the code with no new contamination got me back to the previous normal so the computer thinks everything is fine. Anyone - does this make sense?
I don't know if this will be helpful to anyone or not, but i've only cleaned the Mass Airflow Sensor = MAF, so far, and here's what happened... (It's located on the big air tube that's going to the throttle body sensor on my 2010 Honda Accord EX Coupe 2.4L) The check engine light came on after the MAF sensor was back in place and i started the car. I drove it about 3/4 miles to the store, shut the car off to go into the store, started it when i came out, and the check engine light came back on again. Took another short drive, turned off the ignition, started it up once again, and the check engine light came on again. 🙄 Took a 3rd drive, shut the engine off, turned it back on again, and the check engine light was finally gone. 👌 (It was a total of only 2 to 3 miles driving in total before the check engine light went out, and it hasn't come back on since.🤞) Hopefully it'll work the same way, or better, after i clean the throttle body. If not, I'll disconnect the battery for 10 mins., reconnect it, take a couple of rides, and see if that gets rid of the check engine light. If that fails, I'll have to have a mechanic reset/look at it for me. 👨🔧
hi Goss; very informative. i need some help. on a throttle body; when the flap is completely closed and you put a flash light on one end and looking from the other end to see if you can see any kind of daylight. is it possible to see any daylight with flap closed? i am looking at mine right now and i can see some daylight. it's a throttle body from a 2010 honda rancher 420. looks like someone bent the flap with a pliers for some reason or another. have a little eratic idling at the moment thanks in advance
Hello, a few days ago I decided to clean the throttle body of my Honda 06 crv following all the steps which consist of turning the key without turning on the engine and press the pedal to not deconfigure or damage the sensor but now I have a problem and that is when I accelerate and release the pedal the acceleration decreases quite fast and just before reaching 750 rpm (idle) the needle jumps up to 1500/2000 rpm before resting completely on idle, as you can imagine this is quite dangerous while I'm driving through what I decided to disconnect the battery so that everything was reconfigured but the problem persists, have some idea of what could be ???
Reyniel Asencio I’ve got an 07 CRV I’ve been needing to clean. However after hearing these issues I’m going to let a professional clean mine. It’s worth the $ to make sure it’s done correctly
Penguin Hacker you should do that because I followed all the steps and use the correct cleaner and still end up having problems, as Goss says this is a preventive maintenance in the hondas that is quite dangerous and not worth the stress in exchange for save money, my next step will be to completely disassemble the throttle body and also clean the idle control valve and pray for this time everything is solved
@@onedayatatime8756 Sorry about that, I tried to do the relearn procedure for my CRV, but it still wasn't working right so ended up taking to the dealer to get it reprogrammed, and the tech told me never ever stick your finger or anything else for that matter to open up the butterfly of the drive by wire throttle body, he said if I have to clean it, spray throttle body cleaner to clean as much of the dirt and varnish as u can, start and run the car until the idle stabilizes, turn off the engine and then repeat until looks reasonably clean, if you want to attempt to move the butterfly he suggested at your own risk to disconnect the battery that way the positioning sensor will relearn on its own, any attempt to work with the throttle body including cleaning you're doing it on your own risk! again this only applies to drive-by-wire throttle bodies.