Be sure to subscribe for more tool and car repair videos! ru-vid.com twitter.com/BigDog50001 instagram.com/bigdog50001/ Disclosure: This channel earns a small commission using some of these links - at no additional cost to you. The Big Dog 50001 Automotive Channel Store can be found here: www.amazon.com/shop/bigdog50001automotive
Thank you SO much! This just happened to me today (I live in AZ). I never drive anywhere so my car just sits in a hot garage most of the time. When I forget to occasionally start my car, the battery dies and I have to plug it into my charger for a while and then it usually runs. However, a few months ago, my battery officially died so I had to buy a new one. I haven’t driven it since then and I’m a procrastinator, so today was the last day I had to do emissions and pay for new tags. And of course, for the first time in my life, my car failed emissions. I have a 2009 Honda Civic with 50,000 miles, so I was pretty shocked when I was told it didn’t pass. That’s when I found out that my recent battery purchase and lack of driving was the cause of failing emissions today. I had no idea that my battery and/or how much I drive had anything to do with emissions. After being told that I didn’t pass, I was told to speak with the manager regarding what to do next. The manager told me that my car was “Not Ready” and he explained what a “Drive Cycle” was and reviewed the print out I was given which showed which drive cycles had been met and which were unmet. The manager mentioned the machine thing that you talked about that shows you if you’ve met all of the drive cycles. The manager said that he loans these devices out so people will know when they’ve met all of the cycle requirements and are eligible to complete emissions. The only problem is that he only loans one to you if your vehicle fails a second time in a row. I don’t have time to keep going there again and again and again - all in hopes that I’ve met the drive cycle requirements. I don’t like driving at all so I was already starting to feel anxious about the whole thing. This was up until I found you and watched your video. I’m really glad I found you; this video was done in a way that even I could follow (cars and anything car related aren’t my thing). I’ve had my car since it was brand new (2009) and never noticed the icons lighting up on the dashboard - even if I had noticed, I wouldn’t have known what they were. But now I do and I’m SO glad that my next trip to Emissions will be my last - at least for another two years! Your knowledge and expertise are greatly appreciated and the kindness you’ve shown by sharing this with all of us means a lot too. Thank you so much for sharing this information and for showing us where the lights are on the dashboard of the car and letting us see what happens to the lights in both scenarios. I’m a visual learner so this video was extremely helpful to me and educational too. Once I’m done with all this, you’ll have saved me a lot of time and energy, while avoiding frustration and additional stress from all this. Thank you x a million!
I learned about OBD the hard way after failing inspection twice, six weeks after having wires replaced. I wish that the video said more about how to complete a drive cycle to fix the problem. The vehicle manual outlines a 9-step process. I'm only as far as fill the tank to 3/4 full, turn the car off for at least 6 hours, and wait for the ambient temperature to get above 40 degrees.
On my 1999 honda the check engine light won't go on as soon as turn the key ignition and if it doesn't turn on before starting the car the car won't turn on
Good info. My vehicle wasn't ready even after I put a hundred miles on my car. So I looked up a bunch of different pol's recommendations for drive cycles and just did different ones every day. Used this method to check.i definitely got the 5 blinks but after another day it stopped and turned off normally so that's a really helpful tip. Now time to see if I'm all good.
Generally you drive the vehicle normally. Once the engine computer is able to run all tests (and assuming they all pass), it will not blink anymore. Sometimes this can take several days or even a week or more. It the check engine light is lit or flashing *during driving* that is another issue and one that needs to be checked out.
My Honda manual outlines a 9-step process under "Emissions Testing" for "Testing of Readiness Codes." It includes things like running the engine at 2000 rpm for 3 minutes in park.
Hey man. Question for you i have a 2008 honda civic and i got a engine light for a p0141 but my readyness monitors are not set and the oxygen sensor is perfect aswell as all the wiring. If i set the readyness monitors will the engine light for p0141 go away? Ive tried literaly everything but not yet done setting the readyness monitors please if you can help me out it would be greatly appreciated P.s i had the car sitting for 1.5years with no battery the car is perfect ive checked out every wire every nut and bolt and the car is perfect other than the emission monitor is not set and i have the p0141 code
The emission monitors will typically not complete with a pending or confirmed trouble code for any emissions related fault. The reason for the monitors to be there and run is to find faults and set trouble codes, like your P0141. That code is for the heater circuit for the secondary 02 sensor (the sensor that is after the catalytic convertor, not the air fuel ratio sensor before cat). You say everything is good but the engine computer checks seem to say otherwise. The engine computer is seeing either either too low or too high amperage on the heater circuit for the secondary 02 sensor. Either there is a problem with the sensor, wiring, engine computer or the car has not been driven enough to clear the code and complete the emission monitors. Don't forget to check the No. 3 ALTERNATOR (10 A) fuse in the under-DASH fuse/relay box, if that is blown it can cause this code (you'll also have to find the reason the fuse was blown, which could be from a bad 02 sensor heater circuit pulling too much current or a wire shorted to ground). The electrical connection at the sensor needs to be good too. Just FYI, the sensor may pass a resistance check with a DVOM (5.4－7.3 Ω at room temperature) but the engine computer is looking at how much amperage the heater circuit is pulling. The code can be cleared with a scan tool or it can clear on its own if it does not detect an issue after 3 drive cycles. It takes 3 consecutive driving cycles (trips for a certain length of time, speeds and temps) for the code to clear on its own once the engine computer does not see any further issues on the circuit. If the engine computer sees an issue on the circuit at any time during the drive(s) it will keep the trouble code in memory and the check engine light on (and will not complete that emission monitor). Just remember the problem could be intermittent. Good luck!
I’ve drivin my 07 civic over 2000 miles still no codes and still will not set. Went through all drive cycles and still no luck. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Another great video. Never heard of this one. Thanks much do for inspection next month. Will go out and try it just for the heck of it. Find your channel great for any Honda owners in fact any car. 👍👍👍👍
Great video brother...super.....this morning i replaced the battery and i went to the gas station to pass inspection...i lnow nothing was wrong with my car but i did failed....NOT READY FOR INSPECTION.. NOW I KNOW WHY!!! THANKS AGAIN
@@BigDog50001 well after my comment i drove 420 miles everything is ready except the EVAP. I DONT KNOW WHAT TO DO.(.HONDA CIVIC 2006). need to pass emissions ASAP
its important to have this type of knowledge, I advise EVERONE to learn about your car and whatnot, not saying everyonne should be a mechanic, but you need to know this stuff so you can diagnose it
Thank you so much for this video, I was able to not waste my time getting retested for my cycle to be completed ! Referring to the blinking check engine light !
Thanks for your video, just had oil change done on 2017 Ridgeline at local Honda garage few days ago for oil change and they said I needed a coolant flush and now emissions problem light came on... could they have caused a problem or could this be a air filter issue?
@@eclipzkiillaz8728 yea said that, i took it to the dealership and they would rest the code but it’ll come back but after i passed 500 miles the light hasn’t come back on after i made it go away using the method in this video. Hopefully it’s just a hiccup that’ll resolve itself
i bought a used honda and mine has been blinking 5 times with ignition switch on for more than 500 miles . I am wondering if the old owner could have disabled the check engine light and if they did if its dangerous to drive my car that way? can you help?
The check engine light should light up when you first turn the key to the on position and then it will go out, that is the bulb check and what you should look for to make sure the check engine light is working. If I am buying a used car that is the first thing I look at before I start the car.
@@BigDog50001 thanks for your advice , the check engine light is actually on and functioning properly I just figuered it out by removing a sensor and it did turn on., I appreciate you taking the time to reply.
I’ve done everything my 99 civic won’t pass for readiness I’ve done three drive cycles no Chk engine light I’ve had 7 emissions test done in two months did several drive cycles and still not passing emissions readiness I’ve drove over a 1000 miles any help and I’ve used my obd 2 scanner no luck
First thing I would do is use an OBD II scanner and check the readiness monitors to see which ones are not ready (evap, catalyst, O2 etc). Even the cheap models will tell you which tests the car needs to complete and which ones are already done, in fact I like using a cheap scan tool for this test because it is fast and easy (you can see an example of me using one at 2:14 of this tool video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rsOOC-jqgiw.html ). Once the readiness monitor(s) that is not complete is identified, then I would try and look up manufacturer data to see what the car needs to run the test to complete the monitor. Second thing I would do is look for any current or pending codes (a cheap OBD II scan tool sometimes will not see all pending codes). Those Civics will run the monitor tests pretty fast so I would say there is a good chance something is not working properly and may need to be repaired.
Check engine lights can commonly go on and off, depending on if the engine computer is seeing the issue at that time. I would try to scan the vehicle when the light is on.
@@BigDog50001 yeah my Cat had to be replaced on my 06 Honda Civic, 10 plus years that thing lived its life! Brand new one installed and now im doing my drive cycle test driving down to Stateline and back here in Vegas
Drive it. The computer will run its system checks and if no issues it will not do it anymore. If there are issues found it will usually set a check engine light.
