I get at least a comment a month from viewers saying the finish voltage is still too low at 13.3-13.4 volts at 5000rpm. The battery in this bike is lithium-ion and you will see just before I start the bike for the final test it is giving 13.2V open circuit. This is the highest voltage this battery will take or give is 13.5 max (2.25V X 6 Cells). Your own end voltage may vary at 5000RPM due to your battery's state of charge. Also, lead acid batteries will absorb and float charge at higher voltages than lithium-ion ones do. The Honda Factory Manual states the voltage at 5000RPM with headlight on should be between 13.2V and 15.4V This range is necessary for the difference in the battery's state of charge during the test. If your battery is newer and fully charged before you start the test your voltage reading WILL BE LOWER than 14 volts. This is because the battery does not need the stator current at that time. A discharged battery will take higher voltage and this is what your regulator rectifier is doing, measuring the batteries voltage to determine how much current it needs to send to the battery. If your voltage is above 15V for more than a few seconds, your battery or voltage regulator are faulty. Some have commented, referencing the Haynes or Clymer manuals stating there should be 14V or 15V. My advice would be to download the Honda factory manual and sell those others on ebay. If you are confused about voltage and current, look for my comment on "ohms law" below or google it. Voltage only goes up if the state of charge in the battery is low. Enjoy!
I’m a Honda CBF 1000 owner since 10 years now. Stator problems on this bike is a serious disease ! My last repair was with an Electrosport stator as in the video. It shows same low values (between 13.2 and 13.6) . The original Honda OEM shows 14.2V at idle. I contacted Electrosport and they confirmed that their stator produces less power at low rpm to prevent stator from overheating. This can be a huge problem when stuck in the traffic as when the fan kicks in the voltage drops under 12V and the head lights starts blinking. It does the same with both lead acid and lithium battery.
Hay Rod, A dab of sealant over the loom rubber bung is also a good idea as well a dab on the crankcase joins ... As long as you see over 12V DC at the battery with bike running/lights on main beam, there's no cause for concern, Voltage output from any stator is all about the amount of winding per each phase on the stator, obviously Honda over did the wind, hence OEM units kick out too many electrons that the loom, R&R has to bleed of as heat, best mod along with a new stator is to install a Mosfet R&R, Yamaha fit a quality unit as OEM & plenty around on eBay as used units, also bin the stator loom connector & solder each phase & heatshrink over the joints .... Lithium Battery isn't a good mod on old bikes, system can't ever fully charge a lithium, so you'll never see a fully charged Battery, also you'll need a Lithium spec R&R & a lithium spec charger.
Hi mate greetings from GB, thanks for this posting this information. I'm contemplating buying an Electrosport stator for my Aprilia RSV but keep finding very negative reports regarding longevity. I hope your replacement is still good, but if not how long did you get from it ? I didn't realise this whole stator failure thing is so wide spread, I'm beginning to consider rewinding myself... Best regards Mitch.
Watching this two tutorials about checking battery, coil... I've learn everything what was wring with my motorcycle and you was right. Thank you from the bottom of my heart!!!
This is the second of your productions I’ve seen. The level of detail and technical accuracy you provide are absolutely professional quality. Add to that, the tips to help the mechanic achieve a best quality repair and to avoid frustration and wasted time- pro level instruction. Providing a ‘heads up’ to expect the magnets’ resistance to removal of the stator cover will likely help a novice, avoid the confusion of wondering if this is normal. Much respect for your work as a technical educator 😎♠️🎩
Excellent videos. Thank you. I have an older 1991 Ducati 907ie and only have two wire coming from the stator and to the R/R. You mentioned a little about a two wire system. Would the test to check to the lack of grounding for the stator be the same as a 3 wire?
Hello UNPOCO MAS, yes the method would be the same. You can also use the method in this updated video that also explains the two wire vs three wire stator. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KpmvUvpRCEM.html
Awesome video! I'm about to do this job for the first time and you've helped from start to finish! Do you have a linkf or the new stator that you used?
I bought this one off Ebay because none of the shops I typically use, fortnine or bike bandit had one available, The seller is still selling them. www.ebay.com/itm/324058928953 I have recently bought a number of parts from Fowlers out of the UK and found their customer service and stock level to be leaps & bounds beyond anything I've found in North America.
Not according to Honda! Standard Voltage is13V-13.2V Headlight on @ 5000RPM Otherwise Voltage should not exceed 15.5V DC. The Battery used is a Lithium which also may impact the multimeter readings since it is fully charged when before starting the bike & testing in the video Lithium Ion batteries have low internal resistance. If your battery requires more than 14V then it is not fully charged or has lost some capacity and or has increased resistance. State of Charge of the battery plays a roll in the output of the regulator. A weak battery will draw more current from the regulator & stator, to raise current the regulator can adjust voltage. The relationship between voltage, current, and resistance is described by Ohm's law. This equation, i = v/r, tells us that the current, i, flowing through a circuit is directly proportional to the voltage, v, and inversely proportional to the resistance, r. In other words, if we increase the voltage, then the current will increase. If we increase the resistance, then the current will decrease.
Hello there, thanks for the video! The link you have provided for the stator points to bikersrun website, I wanted to know if you've dealt with them in the past? And what's the quality of the parts? Thanks again 😊!
I recommend them 100%. Quality is comparable to any aftermarket product. It's not OEM quality but it's less than half the OEM price! IMO well worth it since I've found exactly the same stator and gaskets for twice the price on other websites. Biker's Run has really great service & pricing but expect a few weeks of shipping from order to delivery since the parts come from the factory direct to you.
I don't because I want to make sure any debris from the gasket comes out on the oil change if it works its way down. So I top up the oil after repair, test run then change oil. Good Luck!
Your bike will shut off at the worst possible time and not start... Seriously check your battery voltage at 5000RPM with headlight highbeam on! Should be between 13.2 and 15 Volts. Thanks for Liking & Subscribing!
Room Temperature Vulcanizing Silicone, this is a common gasket sealing material found in all auto applications and is available at any automotive store.
i'm sure this has been asked, but how many miles did this go before it failed? there's really no other way of finding out this before it happens? (other than seeing it on a voltmeter)? i have a 5th gen, so far so good...at 30k, i've replaced the battery and i see its charging over 14 volts (but you have to rev the motor up to 2,000 rpm to see the charging capability as its at idle its just over 13 volts
If there is any continuity, there is a fault. There should be no connection between the stator leads and ground. If there is the insulating poles have broken down. See if this explains better. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KpmvUvpRCEM.html
Not according to Honda! Standard Voltage is13V-13.2V Headlight on @ 5000RPM Otherwise Voltage should not exceed 15.5V DC. The Battery used is a Lithium which also may impact the multimeter readings since it is fully charged when before starting the bike & testing in the video Lithium Ion batteries have low internal resistance. If your battery requires more than 14V then it is not fully charged or has lost some capacity and or has increased resistance. State of Charge of the battery plays a roll in the output of the regulator. A weak battery will draw more current from the regulator & stator, to raise current the regulator can adjust voltage. The relationship between voltage, current, and resistance is described by Ohm's law. This equation, i = v/r, tells us that the current, i, flowing through a circuit is directly proportional to the voltage, v, and inversely proportional to the resistance, r. In other words, if we increase the voltage, then the current will increase. If we increase the resistance, then the current will decrease.