I didn’t Used to have Much Respect for these Older Engines, but the More I see of them I can’t help but Revere the Solid Simplicity of the Motors and Mechanisms - Great Job Doctor Bill 🚂👍🏻
Hi Bill. Good job on the old Dublo 2-6-4 tank. I have a couple of those, running on original 3-rail track, and they are both storming performers. It’s generally acknowledged that these Dublo upright motors are safe from burnout as long as they draw less than 750mA. You might even be able to reduce the current draw a little further with a simple trick. You rightly point out that clean commutator and brush gear are important but brush pressure is also a factor. You dealt with making sure that the brushes and springs move freely in the tubes, but before you reassemble the brush gear, make sure that the brush plugs are a good tight fit. Spread the split end a little if needed. Then ensure that with the brushes in place and the springs uncompressed, the outer end of the springs sit just at the mouth of the brush tubes and do not project out of the tubes. Then, when you fit the brush plugs, push them only half way in. This could reduce the current draw by up to 100 mA. It will also reduce brush wear and the rate that the commutator slots fill up with carbon dust. The same trick works with all of the early Dublo upright motors and some of my fleet draw only 250 or 300 mA on level track with a light load. My layout is on three levels, and they are a bit more greedy up the gradients with a rake of goods wagons or four of the heavy steel Dublo corridor coaches, but I make sure that they stay below 600mA, even laden on the gradients and I know they are happy. Replacement springs and brushes are easily available at very reasonable cost. Sometimes replacement brushes are too long and I snip a little bit off the end. Oh, I do agree that the magnetic shunt is pretty useless in normal circumstances, but with it released back hard against the magnet poles it does take some of the sting out of a neomagnet Happy modelling! I love your layout. Perhaps you could show us a track plan sometime Kind regards and thank you for an interesting channel John
Great video Bill. Very thorough. This might just tempt me to get mine out of its box again. Gorgeous loco -- re-wheeled, renumbered, with proper handrails and real coal. Bought it as a 'non runner' for twenty quid. Worked on the button. What a bargain. It's currently out-of-traffic having suddenly stopped, last time it was out so I'm hoping it's just picked up a track pin or something. Must take a look at it soon!
These old HD/ Wrenn 2-6-4 tank engines just have a certain character and charm their newer representatives just don't have in my opinion. Whenever I notice one going for very cheap online, I try to buy it because usually it is in desperate need of an overhaul and runs spectacularly after. I even bought the remagnetizer just to ensure it and other older locos with magnets like it will run like new. Love to work on my layout and locos while watching you as well Bill! Happy Sunday!
It is the first time I've seen this type of locomotive set up being from the States, so it was an educational experience. I also have to admit that I like your well thought out placement of animals and figures. I don't recall you mentioning when Hornby released that locomotive but, I figured in the 50s or 60s. If I ever run into one of these motors this loco has it will be good to know that 0.6 amps or less is normal. Great repair and video, Jersey Bill
Another great video - thank you. I like the old Hornby Dublo engines because they are so well-built. Granted, they are a bit crude by today's standards but there's something nice getting them running at their best again. With regard to touching-up the paint, I often use a bit of acrylic paint or a good quality permanent black marker pen. The latter can work wonders if you can't be bothered to get the paint out. I then apply some varnish, and as a consequence, the overall finish looks great and your touch-ups proving very difficult to see. Just be aware, though, that varnish applied to plastic-bodied Dublo models can cause a reaction to the body. It sort of crystallises, leaving a white 'crackly' finish. Bestcto stick with just spraying the metal models but do try a test part first!
Nice work Bill. Hornby Dublo and early Tri-ang motors have a sweat spot for speed. So that will be a temperature related issue. If the motors run too cold they struggle at slow speed, but once you reach the sweat spot they'll run happily for hours. I hear from a Hornby Dublo channel I've discussed this with that this is due to wear on the motors. Not much you can do about it. Given that 2 Rail only came in from 1959 with Dublo and they were sold to Tri-ang 5 years later, these old girls are doing very well. 60 plus years old and still running is a great testament to the design. Layout is looking great Bill. Happy Modelling
Yes, I've re-acquianted myself with this issue since Bill revitalised my Doublo City of London a few months ago. Once up to temp, it will happily haul 11 old plastic-wheeled, tinplate coaches for hours.
Very timeline repair! Just brought a Wrenn Duchess Class online which seems the same sort of mechanism? Says it is a good runner but you never know until you have her at work on your layout. A reminder of how this sort of mechanism works may prove useful!
Another great video - thank you. I like the old Hornby Dublo engines because they are so well-built. Granted, they are a bit crude by today's standards but there's something nice getting them running at their best again. With regard to touching-up the paint, I often use a bit of acrylic paint or a good quality permanent black marker pen. The latter can work wonders if you can't be bothered to get the paint out. I then apply some spray varnish, and as a consequence, the overall finish looks great with your touch-ups proving very difficult to see. Just be aware, though, that varnish applied to plastic-bodied Dublo models can cause a reaction to the body. It sort of crystallises, leaving a white 'crackly' finish. Best to stick with just spraying the metal models but do try a test part first!
Hi Bill, This is my favourite H/D engine. Quite possibly my favourite engine of all. The owner of this engine would have done better in buying one of Ronald Dodds remagnatizers to sort out the magnet than buying a neodymium magnet. But that's just my opinion. Still another great video.
My best friend had one of these and a Sir Nigel Gresley in 3 rail guise when we were kids. They were as robust and bulletproof as my Dinky Toys Chieftain Tank! Do you think this one was once a 3-railer? Watching you work on it brought back some sweet memories. I seem to recall Mr Snooze talking about the shunt plates and their total ineffectiveness.
Looking at the underneath of that loco, it looks to me like it’s been converted from 3 to 2 Rail, ( a lot of model shops offered this service in the 60’s and 70’s after Hornby’s demise)
@@stephendavies6949 If it genuinely is a type 2218 as opposed to a 3-rail EDL/L18 then it was built as a 2-rail model - these also carried 80033 as their running number. Although of course, Dublo models can get re-bodied - my 3-rail Co-Bo has the 2-rail body on it.
Excuse my density, how come the valve gear doesn't short across the two wheel sets? Are the tyres insulated from the rest of the wheel? Also couldn't some enterprising type produce a 5 pole armature for this built-like-a-brick-outhouse example of British "lasts for ever"Engineering?
Another excellent video Bill. I have a few of these Dublo and Wrenn models that Ive bought over the last 18 months or so. Once you get the basic maintenance down pat. They are so simple to work on and can be made to run very well. They have a charm all of their own. At a minimum the dublo versions are 60 years old now. They are certainly built to last. Could I ask What fluid do you put in your sonic cleaner please?
I am 64 now my late father bought onevodvthesecdor me just before i was born in 59 , i still have it ,a bit battle chipped bu not bad id like to service it ,would it be better not to remove the magnet ?
