Great video, I use the Calumet (Tachihara) and Toyo 45A 4x5 cameras. I find that the 4x5 is about as large as I can go at this point. I currently process all of my B&W and Color 4x5 and then scan on an old Epson scanner that as capable of doing 4x5, I then scan and print digitally. I would like to use 8x10 but find the cost of film can be cost prohibitive.
8x10 is very expensive. $7 a sheet for Ilford FP4+. Color is outrageous at $50 a sheet if I send out for processing. 4x5 is still somewhat affordable. And I like processing 4 sheets at a time instead of 1 - 8x10.
Thanks! Experimentation is required when you're starting out. Just don't think about the cost of the film. I'd use the Cat Labs 80 iso which is about the cheapest decent film you can buy that I know of.
Very well explained and clear. I love my intrepid despite its shortcomings, didn’t realise the Chamonix was so close in weight. I’m also a 5x7 shooter and am thinking of getting the Intrepid 5x7, will probably wait till I can review it at a show. The advantage of 5x7 is that practically it is not that different from 4x5 in that you can develop 4 sheets at a time easily and weight is similar.
Love the final thoughts about 4x5 vs 8x10 - I was thinking of moving up to an 8x10 but after this you have convinced me to stay with the 4x5. I have the Chamonix H1 and I love the fact that I can pull the camera out with my Nikon 150mm lens already on the camera and be up and zero'd very quickly and then I can take more time on the Focusing and Shooting...
I shoot with the 45-F2 and Love it, the 45H is different in that it does NOT fold, basically you pull it out and put on tripod add lens and shoot, some photographers prefer the non folding for quick set up/breakdown.
Hi Ed. I've never used a large format camera and so I found this an extremely interesting and helpful explanation. Thank you. Understanding how a field camera works is a great way to also understand the basics of photography and how a more modern camera system also works. I'd love you to make a follow up explaning how you use the front and rear movements to achieve tilt/shift...and how you use that in composition. I'm sure that would help people understand tilt/shift more generally. Great job.
Yes, but over the years I have standardized on d76/id11 1:1 for 11 minutes @ 68F. I only vary that if I’m doing N- or N+ development. I’m used to how those negs print with my light sources.
good video, however in the focus lever discussion you missed nick carver, his video on polaroid (545 holder?), he made that mistake, and swore lots, to the point of it being comical 🙂 especially as that film is way more expensive, but Yes, always test the shutter, sheet film is (2023) about $AUD 300 for 25 sheet boxes!! so don't "go live" unless you are sure the shots going to work out, with a meter, watching for glare, and that everything (including the light tightness of holders) is up to par.
Good points! On the Chamonix, there 's nothing to check regarding the focus knob, there is no lock. The screw drive mechanism stays where you left it. (Same with the Intrepid's as well, just not as confidence inspiring.) But on my Zone VI, that would definitely be something I would make sure was locked down tight. LOL, Nick Carver. God bless anyone still using film but his precision metering method sure is a long and complicated way around the barn to do something that Ansel explained so clearly and so well, but hey, I have reached curmudgeon age so I can criticize these young whipper snappers... :)
one other advantage of one sheet in a holder is that if you forget what is in them, in the dark tent you can remove the sheet, and feel the notch code, safely, and re-insert it, shoot, and you have metered correctly for the film in the holder.
The ifootage works well. I really like how easy it is to level the head. The only thing is you have to have an L bracket or a view camera to do verticals. Other than that, and that's no big deal, it's great!
