Great demo....and thanks for putting no commentary or music in the background. The hum and noises of you putting everything together is the best soundtrack.
Had one of those at our family home when I was a kid, was rebuilt multiple times over the years to breathe new life into it and give it a good clean. Seeing a cross section of it in action is truly taking me back
I was having thoughts about how cleaning the chimney soot could be a problem but it would sure cut down on so much of the wasted heat from a straight up chimney .
@peterjol Generally speaking, masonry stoves like this are designed to burn wood really efficiently, in a short period of time, rather than over time like a cast-iron stove. This results in dramatically less build-up inside the chimney, so cleaning is less of a problem!
@@peterjol you didn't notice the sooot trap clean out! or you don't like the idea of having to pull the soot into the house!? ash vacume? you could even reverse the flow so that the cleanout is out side!
Agree, I'm not sure I would consider this a "How it works" demonstration. It's simply a cutaway demonstration. Very useful for explaining, but the video is lacking that key "Explanation part". I do appreciate the demonstration tho. Great work.
In a normal stove with straight chimney, cold air from the chimney will freeze the stove almost immediately when the fire is done burning. With this stove, cold air is blocked by the syphon, which is filled with hot smoke. The stove stays warm much longer.
Wow this is the most straight forward direct visual explanation of the basics of that type of woodstove/heater. I've been wanting to build my own new replacement for the old crappy 1970s funnel fireplace my dad built in when I was a kid, its terribly inefficient. Its cool looking but wastes so much heat. I've just really been interested in these when I had them featured in a magazine I was getting back several years ago.
Great demo, I’ve built a few fireplaces in my time and I can see how this would reduce down draft problems, particularly with a short stack. I’m assuming once the bricks heated up, the draft would be very strong and the thermal mass would continue to radiate heat.
thats why this isnt actually the best demonstration - he didnt preheat the stack using the top gate. Thats pretty important where extreme temps happen, the smoke wont even push out of the stack if the temp was below zero celsius, not without smoking out the cabin.
Cleaning of the Russian stoves is done only occasionally, by removing two strategically placed bricks in the structure. Chimneys and stoves are often painted white to make it easy to spot any dangerous leakage.
@@Boris-Vasiliev Most of the heat in a regular modern fireplace is sucked straight out of the chimney. This design uses more surface area to absorb heat from the smoke and radiate it through the brick inside the house! :)
@@robozstarrr8930 Maybe english is not his native language. There are similar designs for both heating and cooking. They are ususally made with a bypass for summer time, to direct smoke straight out of the chimney.
How to increase the combustion chamber temperature for the cleanest most efficient burn? Take the heat out of the system outside the combustion area, that is, in the exhaust pathway. Best to insulate the combustion chamber, and perhaps it’ll even require pre-gasification of the fuel. Aim for blue flame in a small combustion chamber and a long heat removal path to combine good burn with good heat extraction. Key is not sucking the heat away from the combustion chamber walls. This is a great few steps in the right direction. Congratulations and thank you.
@@skakpedersen That is why old fireplaces normally had a compartment for storing a bit of wood right alongside them: you'd fire the place and then get wood for the next burn which would be nice and dry before it is needed.
I don't need it but I'm so gonna make it this summer. It's been years since RU-vid suggested something so fun and informative that made me wanna do it myself. You got yourself a sub.
Great job. Such an innovative idea to illustrate how masonry wood heater work without words. I wonder where a good place could be to drill a bunch of holes to combust the smoke.
That secondary air needs to be preheated, otherwise it cools the gasses below their flash point. I have a woodburning furnace that runs the incoming air through metal tubes in the firebox before releasing it through many tiny holes in tubes across the top of the firebox. When burning, they look just like the jets in a gas furnace. So to answer your question, an additional layer of brick could be stacked to form an envelope around the firebox, with narrow gaps along the top of the firebox. These channels would be closed when the firebox is first lit, to prevent downdrafting smoke away from the chimney, then opened once a good draw and flame is established.
I used a similar type of stove in Russia. There were two dampers, both open to start the fire. Once it was going and the chimney was warm, the lower one was closed. When all the wood was burned (usually in less than an hour) we closed all inlets and the chimney damper. Then the whole structure heated up and kept the house warm for about 12 hours. I would like to have seen an explanation of how that worked.
Very COoL (or hot depending:) Back in the 60's they use to fear the 'draft'. But it look pretty sweet to me. I love that you even have a tiny tool too - oh, my bad Cheers from So.CA.USA 2nd House On the Left.
The swedes use a 5-channel design. The finns as well though in later years they modernized the masonry heater with a free standing core that was not physically connected to the walls. This had many advantages and prevented stress from thermal movement. They also got rid of the traditional tiles and used metal exteriors, thin sheet metal, even copper. This was far superior to tile and the whole heater can be fired to higher temperatures than the traditional tile based ones who would crack and leak if burned too hard. Finnish designs from the 1940s also incorporated secondary air.
@@JDeWittDIY Here you can see a drawing i.imgur.com/xmGIRIm.jpg And here you can see a small one being built eevuli.blogspot.com/2015/05/ponttouunin-muuraus.html Googling the word Pönttöuuni should yield more results
@@1873Winchester Looks efficient! Btw, LLP=5.5m2 means heat exchange surface area. I have similar fireplace still in use from 1928, although it does not have the secondary air channel.
@@1873Winchester Thankyou for sharing links very interesting, loved looking at the design. especially the fresh air port leading directly up in the fire chamber. I didn't see the couple implementing that feature which I imagine would be hard to do in the version they built. But I would like to encourage people to emulate as it makes the fire hotter. I think that's way it is in the plan, but I could be wrong, lol. Nice vid Grain, loved the little bricks. It would be great to see a full working miniature fire place plus infrared video.
Imagine burying those smoke routes horizontally under the floor of the house. That's ondol, a Korean traditional heating system. We cannot enjoy fire indoor but the house is nice and warm even from your feet. I can imagine your demonstration would be good too.
@@TotoMacFrame I guess I don't have a good intuition for condensation. I thought the cold glass would have to be colder than room temperature. Or otherwise, the hot air to have more water than the cold air. Do normal brick chimneys or fireplaces ever get condensation, while the brick is cold?
@@donperegrine922 Rule of thumb is: the warmer the air, the more moisture it can carry. When warm and humid air gets cooled, it cannot hold on to the humidity and the water "falls out" the air, resulting in fogged up windows in the winter, or in fogged up windows in the car when you breathe much in winter before the heating works fully. The air basically gets rid of all the water it cannot carry any longer when it cools down, e.g. by touching a cold surface. This surface basically only has to be cooler than the air to let this happen. Cooking pot with glas lid? Lid gets condensated, since the hot air from the pot cools down on the cooler lid. Those droplets are still freaking hot though. If this happens in a normal chimney is beyond my knowledge, but everything I know points towards "It should".
Great little model. So what is the advantage of the s channel in the ducting? Why not just go straight up? Does that capture more heat in the house with this style?
The bricks absorb the heat from the smoke. It becomes a thermal mass which will radiate the heat even after the fire goes out. The long path allows better heat absorption than a straight shot. Check out thermal mass rocket stoves. There is no smoke one the stove gets going, and no heat is wasted out the chimney.
At first I wasn't sure just what this demo was, I thought it was some full scale thing. With a bit of a secondary air inlet, this could be an excellent demo of that design.
How do you clean the internal chimney? Watching the soot build up just in that small demo makes me wonder how you prevent chimney fires in a full sized one.
You use a brush like a normal chimney. The back one you clean upwards from the burn chamber, then the cleanout door above the burn chamber for the horizontal section, and from the top of the chimney for the tall section.
I am completely lost as to what point this video is trying to make about this furnace design. Is the point of this design to capture more of the heat from the fire for heating the building, or is it more about controlling smoke? How would this funace be positioned in the home? (Answered by possibly including some existing or historical examples of this furnace in the real world.) What are the limits on the length of the center "downward" channel? I assume that it does not work if it is either too short or too long. Adding some thermal imagery might also have been helpful, along with a side by side comparison to a straight chimney furnace, or whatever the cimpeting design was. I totaly understand the artistic design of the video itself. I would be totally happy to read the explanation in the video description or a pinned comment.
Thank you for this. You have no idea how very helpful this was for me. I look forward to building something like this in my future home before the Grand Solar Minimum really gets going.
Pozri sa najprv ako funguje krb. Ako sa napája komín. Chýba ti komora kde sa otáča studený vzduch prichádzajúci zhora aby sa otočil, potrebuje priestor dole. Na otočený vzduch sa vyšie napojí samotné ohnisko. Tento istý princíp je aj pri napájaní rúry na komín. Komín musí byť dlhší smerom dole aby napájanie bolo vyšie ako dno komína. Vietor, studený vzduch sa tak môže otočiť a ísť naspäť smerom hore. Tým sa zabezpečí ťah, nebude unikať dym do miestnosti.
I expected that the small upperclean out door was actually used to Start the airflow and proper draft as you then beging the fire below... Nice job! Would like to see other designs, like down exhaust to a bed/stratification Chamber... and then exit smoke from the floor...!?
As interesting as this is, I've never seen or heard of it before and don't quite understand the purpose of the channel looping. My best guess is that it's either something to do with keeping the air in the channel hot, or something about oxygenation of the fire. It would be nice if the description had some sort of explanation.
Buena demostración. Ahora en verano se podrá asar unas sardinas en ese invento jajajaja...saludos amigo. Хорошая демонстрация. Теперь летом в этом изобретении можно поджарить сардины, хахахаха ... привет друг.
This is really cool, Grain would please add a air pipe with port holes and a vavle to the bottom of the second bend, once its hot you should beable to achieve some secondary burning of the flue gas.
look at the pot style waste oil burner videos , they have a air pipe and blue flames come off the fresh air jets. i think with some restriction on the opening , the draft should pull air in the sujested air pipe
I apologize for not reading everyone's questions and answers but aside from that my question is how do you clean the creosote out of the cavities or is the temperature so hot that there is no creosote buildup?
I now get how to make one. How does it work though? Well, heat rises, so I get that much. But I guess I'm not following what the benefit is to the S bend. How does that works better than going straight up like a normal chimney? I know more about it now but also am somehow more confused at the same time...lol.
The model is a lot of fun to watch, but can someone pls explain what the problem with a just one-channel chimney would be? I'm a profane who comes from a rather warm place. Thanks in advance!
The extra length of the channel allows the bricks more time to absorb the heat from the fire. That means you don't need to burn as much fuel to warm your house.
ok. I never a smoke channel could work like this. I was taught that it should only go up. Not go up, down and then up again. because hot air rises. But so you can have the smoke channel come down again and then up again. Brilliant
i do hear some kind of device that blows air in. So i guess this would not work if you do not have such a device? And yeah, true. I did have problems lifting that rock. But heck, i lifted it and crawled out from under it. And now i have crawled out from under the rock, i gosta learn stuff, i guess. Hence these somewhat silly questions./
@@bertjesklotepino Nothing is required to blow air in. It works like a siphon, just backwards from one using water. Instead of gravity pulling a liquid down it's forming a vacuum in the longer and taller portion of the chimney that pulls the smoke and air up through the smaller and shorter section. They do require a small hot fire to start the flow before trying to light a large fire though.
