Thank you for providing the information. I was not sure what the "membrane" was used for but now it makes sense to me. My small generator does not start because it's not able to get the gas out of the tank in the small reservoir. If i fill it up manually it works great till its empty. After inspecting the membrane and holding it against the light i saw the small ruptures. I've just bought and new one and dropped it in and it works great.
Thanks for the quick once-over on this! I just started working on an old Kemp Shredder with an engine from 1972 and this was the first time I've seen one of these carbs. I thought it was the coolest looking carb!
Thanks for showing us how these old carbs work, I have a few engines lying around that have pulsa jet carbs including a 5 horse Briggs that's on my Craftsman chipper/shredder and it usually starts first or second pull. Keep up the good work!
Thank you! This perfectly explains my tiller's starting issues (rusted out internal fuel bowl). During cleaning up the tank, it completely disintegrated.
Glad to see you’re back with another video. I like the pulsa prime, haven’t seen a Pulsa jet in a long time. But I can rebuild either one in my sleep, so easy to work on. Thanks.
I try to put a new video up every 2 weeks, wish I could do more. They are both great carbs, I hear ya! They are pretty simple really, alot of people don't like them. Thanks for Watching!!!
That's the millenial lifestyle of what I would call the "cummer goblins" who are trying to get us all killed with their millenial bullshit and political correctness. But you've yet to see what I'm talking about, and when you see it, it may be too late.
@@rverro8478 haha that is odd! i really like these carbs, they are picky but they are reliable once the bugs are worked out. Sometimes hard to start though.
This is how I understand it. First there was the "vacu jet" which simply used the venturi to suck fuel from the tank. However as the tank fuel level dropped the engine leaned out. The "pulsa jet" fixes this by having the venturi suck fuel from a little reservoir. The reservoir is kept full by the pump, has an overflow to control the level, and the venturi sucks the fuel from this constant level source.
Great video. The only comment I have is the "Pump action" is created by the tube from the crank case ? I assume there must be some "Reed" valves or similar on the engine ? I cleaned and rebuilt the Carb along with new gaskets and diaphragm. It was running perfect easy to start, I loaned the machine (a Tiller) to somebody....now I cannot get it started ....its work in progress.
Thanks. No, actually the tube from the crankcase just pulls out blow by and oil fumes out of the crankcase. There is a PCV like part on the oil breather, on the valve cover, but the fuel pump works directly off the intake part of the carb, behind the diaphragm there is a hole that goes right into the body of the carburetor for vacuum. They will run without the breather tube in place, its just a emission control feature. Thanks for Watching!!!
Hi guitar player9, I have an old leaf blower 5 hp Briggs my tenant just bought. First off thanks for the basic operation video. I never learned, knew how these worked. Anyway it starts up but stalls out when moving the leaf blower around. It runs longer when just sitting level. I went thru the carb, all clean, tank clean, fresh gas. Mixture screw optimum at 1 1/2 turn out. Won't run set anywhere else but close to 1 1/2. After it stalled, I pulled off the carb and did find fuel in the fuel tank short tube "bowl". I can keep it running by spraying a bit of starting fluid when it starts to stall. If you have any thoughts. I'm stuck. Thanks. George
I have a 130292 with a pulsa jet carb your video put me in the right direction. Where do you buy parts, all my local small engine shops seem to be closing or discontinuing parts sales, and I need a head gasket
I've showed it briefly in a few videos, I would have on this one but it went on a ungoverned mini bike engine I'm building at the moment! (video of course on the build coming soon), if you look through my 5hp vids there may be a clip or 2 of how it is, but i've never actually made video just on that, I will plan on making one. Thanks for Watching!!!
Tank on mine is missing the little "bowl" for the short pickup tube. It is gone. It is not inside the tank. It was probably removed through the filler neck by previous owner. I need a new tank but if I keep tank full it will run. Problem is it leaks fuel from the gas cap filler neck area while I am running the tiller.
I suspect the people who don't like the pulsa-jet carbs are the same ones who don't like Tecumseh engines. Anything they don't/can't understand is junk to them. I'm guilty of this with cars and trucks. I hate anything made after the carburetor/vacuum advance timing era.
I agree to a point on that. I hear ya, thats about how I am, I like the older vehicles. I will say this, I prefer briggs over tecumseh, for one reason, I've had carburetor issues with tecumsehs, rebuild them and still not work right, I've just had alot better luck with briggs. But when a tecumseh is running good, you can't beat them, its just the picky carburetors haha I do have a few old tecumsehs that I plan on working on at some point and make videos on, not straying away from briggs but wanting to put something different up. Thanks for Watching!!!
Hi, very instructive video. I have dismantled the pulsa jet carb (out of a B&S 5HP engine on a generator) , cleaned all passage, changed pump's mambrane and tank gasket. After reinstalling, can start engine but it is not easy (sometimes need to add starting fluid in it thru air breather with air filter removed). When engine run, it run rough only at idle. I have tried to increase tension on governor'spring without any difference on running speed. Any idea why this is hapening? Thanks
I'm working on one of these for a go kart right now. 5 hp briggs. Has the other choke style. Been having trouble keeping it running after I open up the throttle for a few seconds. Also tends to stumble and want to die when I accelerate. Well I found the chamber rusted through pretty good, so Im thinking this engine is starving for fuel because it literally can't keep any fuel in the chamber for the carb to use when it needs it. Lots of good size pinholes. Sound like I'm on the right track to you? I am sealing the chamber up with some petroleum resistance liquid rubber stuff. Hopefully the gas doesn't eat it up. New tanks are expenisve.
Also by the way, great videos. Been watching quite a few. I would love to see a video about how to dial in the idle mixture screw/idle on one of these. Done plenty of Holleys, Edelbrocks, etc on cars but this one screw thing is kicking my butt for some reason.
It does sounds like its leaning out, turn the screw in until it bottoms out (barely) then back out 1 and 1/2 turns to 2 turns and see what it does. Thanks for Watching!!!
@@fnaguitarplayer9 I tried a few rigged up ways to fix the rusted out fuel tank and everytime it works for a while until my temporary fix fails. I ended up having to bottom out the screw as well to make it run good. Clocked the go kart at 33 mph. Gonna try to seal up the tank with some JB TankWeld and see how long it holds up. Probably gonna end up getting another tank.
I recently got my grandfather’s old 77 Montgomery Ward tiller with a 5hp Briggs and one of these carbs. It runs but when it shuts off gas leaks back out of the choke for almost a minute. I replaced the diaphragm and tank gaskets but it is still happening. Any ideas?
I have a troybilt pony tiller with a 5hp b&s engine. The fuel tank was nasty & I cleaned it with nuts/bolts & then muriatic acid. I put a new fixed jet carb on it. I runs poorly, blows black smoke, & the compression is 50 psi. and 60 after adding a little oil to the top end. It keeps fouling plugs and runs like crap. Also The governor arm on the side of the engine case is difficult to move. Any ideas? Thanks
Where is the part number on those carbs? I have one like that the choke is not the same it's on the side of the generator. It basically runs for 20 to 30 seconds then dies. Then 4 or 5 pulls tk get it to go again. Should I just change out the die fram and spring in the side? I've sprayed a bunch of carb cleaner on the two jets inside and still does it. Thanks for the video I've looked everywhere for that type of carb.
Yes, I'd suggest removing the carb from the tank, cleaning everything really good and replacing the diaphragm, thats the biggest problem on these carbs! The diaphragm part number is 270026. Thanks for Watching!!!
@@fnaguitarplayer9 already did the diaphragm still does it. You think just cleaning the carb really good would take care of it? I take care of my stuff and run new gas it just started one day so frustrating. Thanks for the help.
Hello Sir. Just found and subed to your channel. I have around 5 engines with the pulsa jet carb on them. The problem I have is the one on my push mower messed up so I bought a kit and tried to install it correctly but I must have done something wrong. It will hit on starter fluid so I'm pretty sure the problem is in the carburetor. I'm not real computer savvy as to find it myself, but do you have a video of the proper way to rebuild the pulsa jet that maybe you could put a link to. Oh yes I really enjoyed the video I found of you explaining the carb. Thanks again you're good at explaining things. Please keep up the good work. 👍
Great video! Question... would I, or could I buy a new carb like that? Cause I have an old snow blower with that kind and I think it’s messed up beyond repair. At least for me, I broke the linkage and the springs are pretty worn out.
Thanks! Yes, they are available on ebay, new, but they are over 100 dollars, you might be able to rebuild it easier/cheaper then a new one if the carb body is still in good shape and nothing broke on the carb itself. Thanks for Watching!!!
I keep coming across those gas tanks and the little metal cup inside the tank is rusted out or completely disconnected from the inside of the tank. I guess when that happens the tank is junk right?
I bought a $20 snowblower circa 1980 as a fix and flip but the tank bowl was rusted out like yours. didn't want to buy a new old stock tank for $150 because that is probably more than what I could get out of the blower. Anyway, I separated the halves and took a look. The bowl is not welded in, it has a flange on top that fits in the space between the tank and a steel plate that the carb bolts to the tank with. I fabricated a new bowl using 22 ga aluminum sheet, Blue Demon brazing rod for aluminum, and some JB Tank weld. Since I have no idea what the original bowl looked like, I designed my own. It is a cylinder that is 1.35" in diameter and 1.5" deep. I drilled a 1/4" hole in the side as the overflow. I left a 0.15" lip on the top and used tin snips to cut 1/8" tabs that will act as the flange that holds it onto the tank. The tabs, when bent 90 degrees, fit between the plate and tank. The brazing rod melts at about 650 degrees F while Aluminum is about 1,221 F I think. It is easy to melt the aluminum with a propane torch so be careful. It was not a perfect seal so I used JB Tank weld to seal it up. It will work if I can get the halves back together and sealed up..... have not gotten that far yet. The gas inlet was also rusted away so I used a tin lid from an empty acetone can cut to size and fastened to the tank with pop rivets and JB tank weld. It will look a bit steam punk'ish but should work just fine.
The diaphragm has two little valves/flaps on it and is set in place with a spring. One of these flaps is an inlet, the other is an outlet. On the intake stroke(ie piston moving down the chamber), the vacuum created sucks fuel from the fuel tank, through the inlet flap on the diaphragm. The fuel then passes through the outlet flap on the diaphragm and down the slot on the bottom of the carb into the bowl section of the fuel tank. The fuel in this bowl is then sucked up into the carb.
I have one of these on a 5HP briggs on an air compressor. It starts and runs, then dies after 30-60 seconds. Slowly drops speed and dies out, like it's losing fuel. I replaced the diaphragm, no change. Cleaned the entire carb, no change. I replaced the carb entirely... and it's STILL doing it, even with the new carb. So it has to be another factor. But what?
Hello @fnaguitarplayer9 the gasket between my carb and gas tank is leaking when the engine runs. what can be the cause of this? The gasket is visibly wet with gas all the way trough and on all surfaces not just in one spot.
Try to snug up the screws that mount the carb to the tank, if not you may need a new gasket, they just wear out, and will deteriorate over time. But i'd try to gently tighten them first and see if that helps. Thanks for Watching!!!
I've thought of it, but i don't see a way to do it, if you had a float mechanism to regulate fuel level like a bowl on a carb it might work. Thanks for Watching!!!
@@emgarage9534 Not sure if anyone sells a intake for them, most will make them, if you a welder you can probably make one out of some big washers and pipe.
That is a common problem on these carbs, the slider part wears out and makes it loose so it won't stay in place, I have not found a reliable way of fixing it other then changing carbs. but you may be able to connect a external choke control that would add friction to it and make it stay in place. Thanks for Watching!!!
There is a rivet at the bottom of the choke slider. Use a punch and tap the rivet a few times from the inside of the carb and it will tighten up the sliding choke.
yes and no, I maintain a park and do equipment maintenance as needed, and something I've always done. I'd like to eventually have my own shop and do it full time, then I could make even more videos too. Thanks for Watching!!!
I'm just learning about the little chamber inside...mines completely rusted away and I was wanting to cut my tank open and make a new chamber but cant find a picture or anything...if u dont mind could u tell me about how deep it is ,and is completely sealed around or does it have an overflow? Anything u can tell me would be a huuuge help in wrapping up this project...thanks
@@illfather7066 I have a 3.5 hp B&S off of a tiller. The cup is 1 3/8" deep ( measured from the cleaned gasket surface of the tank), and approx 2 1/2 inches in diam. Has two overflows; The spill edge is 3/8" below the clean gasket surface. They are 9/16" wide. They are located 180 Deg from one another, on a line that is 45 deg from the width and/or length of the tank. HTH
Something Ive learned in the last 20 years is NOT to use ethanol for anything, period,i will go 10 miles out of my way to buy good gas, i have all the stations just about in my town mapped out that sell real gas. I can say this for a fact,a machine that uses real gas with last twice, sometimes 3 times longer than some thing with ethanol,maybe newer cars that are designed for this shit fuel maybe but i love old stuff and old stuff hates ethanol,i have seen what ethanol does to injectors, fuel pumps, tanks and diaphragms, up close and personal, yes sir. I wont be around when we run out of gas so as long as i'm breathing its real gas for me.
Not really. I have 30+ year old yard equipment, still running strong. The alcohol attacks rubber, not neoprene. And corrosion? It's not the ethanol, it's the water it attracts. Either run your float bowl dry, and seal the tank when not in use, or in this case, just seal the tank.
