This setup is a dream come true, for those who think it's heavy, mind the other choice is a pair of Salomon Guardians who weight like an irl Salomon Guardian, i also saw some people bind an articulated system inside a regular Pivot and it was ok but probablly heavier.
For anyone in the northeast of the US considering these, there are only two shops that I have come across that will even consider mounting these bindings. It seems the technology hasn't hit the northeast yet, whether that be due to CASTS' lack of affiliation with LOOK, or the fact that to some shops it looks like modified LOOK equipment, (which it is) Im not sure... Anyways, these are sick bindings, trying to get a shop to mount them was INSANELY challenging and I'm disappointed that I had to look so hard to find a shop that would barely say yes to mounting these for me. Thanks for the informative video!
Nice Video! But can you also ride with the touring toe piece, or do you always have to carry the p18 toe piece with you? Because it looks kinda like the Dynafit binding, and also other pin bindings are used like this.
Thankyou for great review Reine. I have regular Look Pivot 15 on Bent Chetler 100's (188 cm) which I really like and entertaining converting. If I understand correctly I can convert my Look Pivot 15's to the Case Freetour system?? Would that be a hassle or am I better off/easier to just get the P18 installed.? (use Pivot 15's on another pair in quiver). I am retired and have never tried touring but would like the option and suspect would be a 20 percent touring with majority resort skiing. Also entertaining the Duke PT16/ Atomic Shifts. Undecided? at this point. Thankyou again. Lou
Hi. You can use the p15 just fine, I have it on a few setups. The problem is that you have to install a plate under the toe piece, that means that you will have to re drill the ski in a new place to avoid the old holes. Or you use the same holes that it's mounted in now but that is usually not recommended. It's a perfect setup and the cheepest option if you already own P15 or P18. And the most solid. Cheers
I am not clear on why they wouldn't use the same keyhole setup on the touring binding as they would on the DH binding. Isn't there a risk that the touring lining would become disengaged when it is in the open setting?
I seen on som pictures on Instagram that you use your Lange RS. How do you get your pin insert into these boots? Can you do it your self? I have Fischer RC4 and these boots I love, so if there is a possibility to get inserts in these boots I would definitely buy the Cast system. Already have the Pivot 18 so that’s not the problem👍
I had my boots shipped to Cast in and they made the conversion for me, you can check out the process here. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ufzfpBd72Ec.html Iv'e seen people do it them self but with varied results and methods, there are many ways I think but its a bit tricky. Yeah if you already have the P18 i would definitely recommend this system.
Hi. Never had the lever freeze in place but I have had some ice on the toepiece, it was still easy to get of though, just a few small "hammer" taps with your palm will do it.
Hi Reine I have allready a lookpivot18 on a pair of volkls. Will i be able to mount the cast toe by my self using the original screwholes or i need to make new holes???
Hi. Well, technically you could as the drillholes are exactly the same however, as with any remounting the general recommendation is do make new holes as there is a chance that the threads in the wood of the old holes will be weakened. Alternatively you could put in coils or inserts in the old holes but that can be tricky business.
I have a p14 on my skis. Is it a problem to put instead of the p14 the p15 on the ski plus the cast touring system? Do i have to drill new holes or can I use the same holes from the p14?
I'm not sure if the p14 and p15 holes line up, i dont think they do. 15 and 18 are the same I would however (in general) not use the same drillholes if i could avoid it as they could be weaker with broken threads. Alternately you could put in coils or something similar but that's Kinda tricky.
Super cool, I use the Arcteryx boots which have a tiny rand in the back only a few mils so I don’t know if the look binding will work with them but I should try, it would be nice to have another option than just pins
Not sure if you have already found this out, but arcteryx boots only work with tech bindings, the soles are too rockered and the toe/heel lugs are pretty much only for crampons
That's like comparing a gravel bike to a mountain bike. If your goal is maximum security with durability and performance, cast is the way to go. If you want lighter but sacrifice security and performance to some extent the ATK is the way to go. I compete on Cast, I would die if I tried that on one of the others you mentioned. But yes, it's overkill for 90% But for the ten percent that is sending it on a daily basis it's a super good option.
I would buy this system if there was a way to use alpine boots (non tech toe). I have tried all of the touring boots and none comes close to a good pure alpine boot. I'm hauling alpine trekkers.
I use my Lange RS130 race boot with this system, converted by casttouring.com But yeah, would be nice not to have to but I'm not sure how that would work?
@@Stomptown I just realized that they have a conversion kit to do that and that's great! Although, it get's very prizy with the boot conversion kit, the mounting, the extra front binding. Introducing many new components that could potentialli break. Did I forget something? There are probably (not sure) some pros to the Cast system compared to Alpinetrekker but man.. It's a long and expensive route to take.
Just mounting mine now :) I know CAST recommend against using Binding Freedom inserts on the toe piece due to possible alignment issues, but for reasons of travelling with a ski quiver and only one set of bindings....I'm going to try it. Plan is to that I'll mount them normally first, ski them, then do some test mounts on 2x4 or old skis using the inserts to see if it all works the same, then mount for real using inserts and hope I get the same result. Should be an awesome setup for slackcountry, which is mostly what I do :)
You can mount a Cast set up with inserts but you need to be dead nuts on. Practicing on a 2X4 is great but mistakes still can be made in alignment. Use Hardman 72 hour epoxy in the orange package and set everything up while the epoxy is still workable. Hardman 72 hour has a long set up time. Be careful and good luck.
hey man! does the front CAST metal-plate sit flat to the ski when the pin toepiece is attached? with mine theres a little space beetween the ski and the plate thats not covered by the pintoepiece - is that normal?
I think it should flat against the ski. If not there might be resedue from the drilling of the ski if the drill was too narrow. Some of the metal plate will show outside the toe pin piece and this is normal. But it should be flush against the ski.
I would say the opposite, the solution is very simple with very few parts that could fail (not saying that they can't but I've been abusing them pretty hard and no fails so far). And say if the pin binding breaks, you still have a fully functional binding to go down with unlike many other bindings.
How did you convert the cuff to give you some kind of walk mode ? Also, how easy is it to adjust the two risers with your poles? Haven't been able to see anyone actually flipping them up and down in the field, only by hand... Thanks,
I didn't convert the cuffs, there just normal race boots with pin inserts. I dont find the walk mode necessary unless traveling long distances on flat, which i rarely do. Its surprisingly easy handling the risers with the pole, much easier than my old frame binding and about the same as my Look HM12 (Dynafit radical 2)
@@Stomptown This is super interesting, gonna buy alpine boots next season and get them converted to cast. Don't like my "130" AT boots that much... An underated benefit of this system is there are loads of great alpine boots so you're more likely to get a great fit, where as there are only a few 5050 type boots that are 130 ish and they're still all worse downhill than a proper alpine boot.
Since I mount my own bindings, I have to ask: Does the system come with a paper template? Also, how many holes are there in the heel plate? Did you use a 4.1x9.5 drill bit for the plates? Is there any play/movement between the toe piece and the plate in downhill mode or is it rock solid? I have a pair of Pivot 18 Forzas that I could use with this system. Would you recommend this system over BAM's Pindung and Marker's Duke PT 16? Sorry for bombarding you with so many questions, and keep ripping it up.
No worries. Yes it comes with a template but its only needed for the ski stopper/raisers part, its two holes in front of the rear bindning, you use the normal p18 jig and drill with the recommended drill for the ski, i used 4.1x9 on this one. Once drilled you take the template/sticker and line up the 4 rear holes for the rear binding, when that is in line there are two extra marks on the template that you drill. Once in downhill mode when clicked in you have no play at all. When no boot is inserted you have some play. I would recommend this system for sure over the others if you already have a pair of p18
Thanks a lot for your reply. Just 2 extra holes in front of the heel piece is a very little footprint for all the added functionality, and the template sounds very intuitive. If the system is good enough for an elite world class skier like you, it has to be more than enough for us mere mortals. Thanks again!
