It’s nice to see that we have the same method of creating letters. I understood what was going on at each point because obviously I also do this. But I think you should’ve added in the other steps of making a sign. Like the caulking or what ever you used on the inside of your letters or the cutting of the acrylic/plexiglass face and the bending of the siding/black coil. None the less it’s very cool to see. To someone who doesn’t work in the industry I think it may be confusing seeing yo go from one point to another.
nice video but why not use black rivets and the way you revited the sides, water will leak in every time. the top return should overlay the bottom return.
El ensamble de la letra (A) está mal realizado si esa letra es para anunco esterior me le va a filtrar el agua el acoplado de la parte superior va al revés ...
very nice, but seems need more time, and difficulty to finished it. If you use 3d printer to make it will be more easier and fast. any interests I will share you more information
Leo William I am very interested in how to make channel letters. Right now I got my Shapeoko CNC. That I can cut acrylics. I bought 4” aluminum returns. 1” trim cap. Waiting for my metal brake. I am working at home. Don’t have too much space.
Leo William if you can help me consult, that would be great. Really appreciate!!! I know how the channel letter assembled, but I need to know the details. Like the tolerance between the back and front letters, rivets size.... so that I can get that UL certified. Thanks.
NO. WITHOUT RELEASE SPRAY HE CANNOT Squeegee OUT AIR- We can see him FIDDLEING with squeegee AFTER TEARING OFF TRANSFER PAPER. BECAUSE HE HAS AIR POCKETS. NOT GOOD practice. Had a shop. Basic stuff. And his drill is dull and does not use a wood backer with the vise grip so it can drill better. At least they use an pneumatic pop riveter (No auto feed.)
God riveted letters are disgusting. I’m 5 years in to sign fabrication and my shop uses .063 alum for letter backs and .063 (usually 3” tall for led purposes) returns and mig them. Much cleaner, stronger, and I could weld that a (if I pre formed it) in about 45 seconds. Those are trash .040 looking returns. You can look at them and they will dent. The light leaks are also atrocious. Quite a barbaric way of building them man. It’s cheap though so 🤷🏼♂️
My thought exactly, .working with .040 is like trying to drink a red bull and not denting the can. MIG those with a spool gun and forget CA glue , ultra sonic weld them
