How Close Can You Install a Socket to a Sink? 

More videos like this please, would love a video on extraction and ventilation for kitchen and bathrooms it gets very muddy.

cross head countersunk screws used in socket

Other countries have this all worked out, distance from edge of power point to edge of the water container, sink etc have to be certain distance away, both height and distance away are stated end of story.

in the states, it is REQUIRED that there be a socket within 24" (about 30 cm) of the edge of the sink. essentially, there can be no counter space that is more than 24" laterally from a socket. of course, all kitchen sockets must be GFCI (RCD) protected.

Wood screws instead of 3.5mm machine screws?

NHBC’s drawing shows minimum 300mm between edge of sink and edge of socket, NOT edge of draining board. They clearly show the socket partly above the draining board and 300mm away from the sink part. Your drawing showed 300mm to the edge of the draining board. Interesting difference!?

Also, the plug could come out of the old kettle, and land in water. I like how that tray is a perfect fit.

And someone has used woodscrews on the socket instead of 3.5 mm set screws

1. The socket is 230mm laterally from the sink, however it is also 'up' the wall - so how far away from the sink is it actually? 2. Our employers' safety inspectors used to fail the old style kettle (with the removable lead) if the lead, when unplugged, could reach the sink bowl. We used to shorten leads in that instance.

Is that a wood screw on the socket half hidden by the plug???

That would be legal in Australia and New Zealand

The blue tray looks the most dangerous thing

I may be w6here but is that socket actually screwed back with pozi wood screws?

you should always use at least ipx5 sockets in wet rooms. should be regulation

interesting question, so when you do your AM2 and the question comes up on the online exam you go 300mm and hey ho you pass , building regs are for all and should be followed, Put in comments box

I have that kettle

Beat Practice 300mm minimum between bowl or drainer

I'm 66 and I don't remember an electric kettle ever having a lead permanently attached to it. I remember the stainless steel kettles with an element that you could see in the bottom, but the lead on those unplugged from the connection on the back of the kettle. In this situation (where there is very little space around the sink) I would have put that socket slightly higher up the right hand wall and closer to the kettle. Get rid of the tray. Good video though.

I'd follow the 300mm as shown in the on site gide

Picture of a hardwired kettle, or it never happened. 68 and never seen one

Should be coding those wood screws!!

It used to be 600mm away from the sink

It is to close but when there is no where else to put it you will put there

So you dont need to follow building regs?

Unfortunately, building regs DO NOT specify a minimum distance.

Even though it isn't in BS7671, there should be some references it should refer to or guidance notes for us to make an informed decision on. According to NHBC it's 300mm from the sink, not the drainage (although I believe it should be drainage), and 100mm from cooker switch to hob. Who is correct and where or what document or guide can I find the answer as your video shows different?

It may not be against any regs but I view it as bad practice as you can be touching an earthed water pipe whist operating the socket with the other hand/arm thus creating a potential pathway across the heart.

Love building control no connection between planning and building control as the kitchen is too small to comply with building regs. Same for my place. Sometime the reality of the world escapes the people setting the regulations and those enforcing them.

C3 all day

While BS7671 may not expressly specify minimum clearances as discussed in the video, the Electricity at Work Regulations state - At Regulation 4(1) - All systems shall at all times be of such construction as to prevent, so far as is reasonably practicable, danger. and At Regulation 6 - Electrical equipment which may reasonably foreseeably be exposed to - (a) mechanical damage; (b) the effects of the weather, natural hazards, temperature or pressure; (c) the effects of *wet*, dirty, dusty or corrosive conditions; or (d) any flammable or explosive substance, including dusts, vapours or gases, shall be of such construction or as necessary protected as to prevent, so far as is reasonably practicable, danger arising from such exposure. Any person conducting an EICR and supplying test certification relating to installations at places of work would do well to highlight the EaW requirements and not rely solely on the guidance in BS7671 and its supporting documents. An incident arising from the circumstances demonstrated in this video (as an example) could lead to investigation by the HSE and/or the Police (depending in which jurisdiction you are located). Such investigation may highlight that the electrical installation has been tested but no comments made by the person in charge of the testing as to the construction of the installation (in this example, the proximity of the switched socket outlet to the sink). Any legal proceedings against the owner/operator of that place of work arising post-incident could, potentially, result in the person in charge of the testing having to answer some awkward questions!

Yip ...but it could be a toaster .. and you don't pick up ( uncouple ) that

If socket has 30mA RCD protection = C3 If socket has no 30mA RCD protection = C2

Installed by a L1 leaner, faceplate secured with wood screws! smh

Yes, 'dangerous times' in the past young man, but you survived! And all (probably) without any RCD or any other new fangle device the manufacturers might dream up, in sight - all in the pursuit of total safety. Cynic? Maybe.