Thank you for the helpful photos! Midea sure did make this a bit time consuming to properly clean -> I'm gonna have to undo that fan housing so i can access the fan AND the back part of the evaporator in order to properly clean the mold that accumulated after a few month. Here's hoping I don't break the thing!
Can you do a test and see if the dongle being unplugged lets the AC boot up from being turned off/unplugged? I am considering buying one of these ACs but want it un-smartified. If it does turn on, what happens when you hold the AP button?
is that high pitch whine normal? mine has it and other's say it shouldn't nor is it present in other videos. Ran it for two hours and its still there plus, you can hear it inside.
Let's vote for this guy doing all "hardware" videos on youtube. Finally someone who is detailed and informed. Compare this to what you normally see here. -- EXCELLENT
I just installed one yesterday. It's so nice. The window unit I had in before was around 80db and was just so loud. Even on high fan this one is only at 50db. Such an awesome unit so far.
Thanks for posting this! I was planning on picking one up and taking it apart and you beat me to it. I'm going to cut the lines and make it a true compact mini split for my sprinter, recharge, extend the umbilicals, should be clean, efficient, and much better than a dometic!! Midea would kill it if they made something like this for the RV market. I installed a mini split in my 40ft 5th wheel and it changed my life. The 18k dual head Midea unit had double the cooling capability of my 2 Dometic rooftop "15.5k" ac units, and at full output it still only pulled 1900 watts, what a single dometic unit pulls. At 100+ degrees outside the 2 Dometic units would only keep the coach around 85-88 degrees. The Midea mini split will freeze us out, I keep it at 70 and has no issues at all maintaining thet temp even in 110 degree AZ summers.
I had the same idea. Splitting the unit in half and making it function like a split AC for a RV. Technically it should work , I have seen guys split window ac . I am waiting for someone to do it 😊. It should be easy two copper pipes and probably some wires.
n Miller 0 seconds ago Any idea how the thermostat works on this thing? I need a thermostat I can program, to use on a solar set up. I would like it to shut off at 72* then kick back on when Temp reaches 85; for example. So it doesn’t just run continuously. Would it be possible to wire in a digital thermostat to this unit?
Thanks again for your teardown. I've managed to get this unit running on 320vdc. Excited to install it in the Sprinter. Also thanks to your commenter who let me know it could be done.
Just installed mine yesterday. Pitched roof, 3rd floor. Only 3 inches of space below the window. Modified the sill to lift the unit 4 inches to accommodate the bracket angle support. This thing is whisper quiet and no clunking sounds. Measured 45°F breeze coming off it on high. The install is different but the unit with it's platform bracket is amazing. This video makes me happy i invested in this. 👍
This is a great in-depth review! Me being an IT I like to take things apart and see how they run inside, just like a computer, but me also being a consumer and it being extremely hot in Virginia I just ordered one of these off of Amazon and it should be in this weekend so I was interested to see how they made this design work and it’s pretty cool.
i just saw this beautiful design yesterday on one of the stores.... I stay in Gcc where temps peak at 113f to 115f let's see how is the Durability of these UNITS. Just beautiful and simple Innovation. Midea will be taking a HUGE MARKET if there are no issues. As I saw from your Video I don't see any issues in maintaining the front can be washed with a Karcher or any washing system. I have 7 Window units at home I will give it a try with 1 unit. If all goes well We have a Winner here.
Great video on this u shape ac unit. Nice break down explanation on compressor and single shaft driven motors which many people don't know. The fact that these two parts are separated gives it better ac process. FYI: This unit does not have water drainage problems like new saddle Clearview units. ❤❤Enjoy your AC❤❤
Bought two last summer,. One for a Bedroom 12x14 and one for the room above our garage 12x24. Both have worked flawlessly, Whisper quiet, Great app. Liked the brand so much, we just purchased a Midea fridge.
Great Technical review! Thanks for all of the details regarding why this unit is superior to traditional window units. It's a lot more aesthetically pleasing to boot!
I have the 8000 BTU Model and I gotta say knowing HOW Midea made it so efficient, and quiet is awesome. Thanks for letting us see the magic behind this amazing Unit. You gained my subscription for sure. Take care. 👍👍
Awesome review! I just got one for my office and I'm so impressed with how quiet and effective it is. Was hoping to see how it works and you did just that!
You are the only guy who took it apart! That's awesome. I noticed that it does well when it's dehumidifying. But as soon as I turn it back to fan mode, the humidity comes right back into the room, as if there was no drainage at all. And it doesn't have any drain hole. (it's tilted out so water wouldn't come back in) If the condensed water is used up in "super-cooling" the moisture shouldn't be back. This is baffling. I wish Midea had a drain hole that could be plugged for arid areas and opened for soggy areas.
The unit is meant to be slightly tilted towards the outside. Like this, I would think all of the condensate would flow though that channel to the outside pan and there would not be much left on the inside side to re-evaporate. I could think of some experiments that would pin this down, though!
@@bigjoshlevine When I installed it, I didn't have a level. But I did have an AA battery rolling about. After installing the support brace, I rolled the battery on it. Even if I rolled the battery inward toward the room from outside, the gravity would make it roll back out. So I know it's tilted out enough. I wonder if there is a smaller reservoir on the room side. Once that's filled, maybe only the overflow would go outside? Dry places like Arizona would need to preserve moisture inside. Since Midea U is the most popular unit now, your experiment could bring interest. I certainly would be interested!
@@LawyerPapa There is usually a gutter inside under the evaporator coil that catches the water as it drips down. This leads to a drain just like a drain in a roof gutter, and that leads to a channel, that leads to the try outside. So there really should not be any standing water inside, just droplets waiting to get big enough to make it out. I would not expect much if any water to condense in a place like arizona. For water to condense, the evaporator coil must be below the dew point of the inside air, and these coils typically run about 45F. They don't run any coiler because of the risk of going below 32F and forming ice and frost which would block airflow and potentially make things start to break.
Hooray! I was a little skeptical given the branding (I'm not familiar with Midea or the alternate Danby - same unit) but seeing the inside actually proves that this is a solid appliance, well-designed and well-built. Thanks very much!
I know it's 2 yrs late by 2024, background: Midea and Danby are part of one huge international company. Not sure which originated this uChannel tech, but just looking at Danby video and instructions, you know they are cousins. Also, I think Danby had or has a factory in USA. That was what I read a year ago before I decided to buy.
Mine comes Saturday for my converted shed. I have a mr cool mini split in my tiny house and I love it. Was gonna buy one for the shed but this is 1/5th the cost. Thank you for this video
My wife purchased two of these for our Arizona home last week. One for use, and the other as a back up unit. I work up in the Chicagoland area and wasn't there for the install. My wife and sister in law installed the unit in our master bed room and my wife is in love with it. Very quiet and extremely effective while allowing for the near shut down of the two household units. Our master bedroom suite is quite large and she spends most of her time in there anyway with minimal need to run the house units. So, money will be saved on utility bills immediately.
BEST REVIEW, HANDS DOWN. NICE TO SEE THE COVER OFF. FINALLY, A MINI SPLIT WITHOUT THE $3K INSTALL PRICE TAG (THEN ADD THE COST FOR THE MINI SPLIT). AGAIN, NICE JOB. THANKS.
Agreed! Also know that if you are willing to do some work and drill a hole in the wall, there are also DIY actual minisplits without the install cost! I just installed one of the Mr Cool DIY units is it is very, very nice. No vacuum pump needed, just a drill and a hole saw and some wrenches!
@@bigjoshlevine A FEW COMPANIES MAKE THE DIY CLAIM. I BELIEVE MR. COOL IS THE ONLY "REAL DIY" SPLIT. I LIVE FULL TIME IN A 36' TRAVEL TRAILER WITH 3 SLIDE OUTS AND WAS CONSIDERING A "PTAC" FOR A LONG TIME. THE ONLY INVERTER PTAC I SEE IS THIS: Friedrich PVH09K3FB, $1,599.00 (PRICEY). I ORDERED THE "DANBY" DAC080B6IWDB-6 ($339 + FREE SHIP. FROM COSTCO). I AM 99% CERTAIN IT IS A RE-BRANDED MIDEA. I LIKE THE IDEA OF THE HEAT PUMP ON THE PTAC (REVERSING VALVE). THE H/P IS EFFECTIVE DOWN TO +5°F AMBIENT TEMP. .......I AM LOOKING FORWARD TO WATCHING MORE OF YOUR VIDEOS! PTAC LINK: www.totalhomesupply.com/p/friedrich-pvh09k3fb-9000-btu-class-freshaire-series-with-inverter-technology-12-1-eer-ptac-air-conditioner-with-heat-pump-20-amp-230-volt?gclid=Cj0KCQjw_8mHBhClARIsABfFgphN_m1sinKWpU2GKoHGjKEwX9XLlCgOAWM8U5MscxIXnm5_OH2QznIaAn7vEALw_wcB
@@seymourscagnetti1413 I do not like the PTAC units- they are often loud! The DIY Mr Cool is very cool. They use these magic valves to keep the lines charged so you do not need to pump down... www.supplyhouse.com/Parker-Hannifin-5505-06B-08-3-8-ODS-5505-06B-08-Series-Female-Resealable-Quick-Connect-Coupling?gclid=Cj0KCQjw_8mHBhClARIsABfFgpj8t7HLiWe_cIuONgjm4F2k9m7GNZjakfyCROGO8k-WiM3qFHKT1ekaAsNHEALw_wcB
It's nice to see them revive the old Silent Knight air conditioner, Montgomery Ward sold them in the 70's. The evaporator was inside and the condenser was on the outside just like these "new" U style units. By keeping the main workhorse components outside the window the noise was greatly reduced. The new technology of the variable compressor really makes these rock. The mini split concept is a great idea. I've been looking into ideas for cooling my campervan project. Thanks for the great how to.
You inspired me to upload a video tomorrow about my Midea Duo heat pumps. They look like they have a ton of similar parts on the inside. I wish they would make a heat pump version of the U shape design. The only issue with the Duo is that it stops heating when its below freezing despite having a fully functional defrost mode. They are pretty loud when they defrost though. I have managed to make them heat down to 10f outside by letting them suck a little more indoor air. It definitely makes a low pressure zone inside the house but its worth it to me as my only other heat source is a 200,000btu 70% efficiency low-pressure boiler. $$$
Hey this was awesome! It reminds me of the boltr tool reviews that the AVE channel used to do. Im looking at buying one of these units for an upstairs that tends to get way too hot during the summer but doesn’t have enough floor space for a mini split system. I honestly was already sold but this review is icing on the cake. Thank you for taking the time.
I don’t know a ton about ACs but I’m an EE. Pretty crazy that this thing is revolutionary for having a few temp measurements and a basic little computer. I’ve been looking at this AC and I haven’t really seen anything better. Especially for $300 at costco. I watched another video and it looked like this thing pulled about 450W at max. Seems very reasonable. My dad never let me have AC as a kid and I can’t really put into words how excited I am to not be melting all summer.
For those that are new to mini split, I've never seen any manufacture think outside the box. I've had this unit for a year now and I run it for 24/7. It is definitely 40% efficient and quiet than conventional window AC. I would never buy anything else but an smart inverter AC like this. Oh before I forget, great video of actually opening the unit lol. I can be wrong on the number, but if you run this at ECO mode, you are looking at 110watts power consumption.
Why all AC's don't come with inverter compressors is beyond me. Even in units that don't have a gap in them, they still make for a quieter, more efficient unit.
Funny enough you have videos of the other "quiet" A/C unit from Heir of their "Serenity" series. I was just about to purchase that one until i saw that not only was this Midea one was quieter, its actually quite a bit cheaper AND has a higher BTU rating! Placed my order today, cant wait to get it so i can finally retire my 8 year old KACHUNK-ing 5000 BTU unit. Absolutely could not sleep with that one on in my bedroom. Thanks for the video!
I've got full central AC in my house, but I still just bought a unit for a room that is far from the thermostat and facing the afternoon sun, just because of how neat the design is. Was watching prices on Amazon and as March started turning into April they started selling out so I bought one and put it in today. It is indeed quiet and the install wasn't too bad. I'm impressed.
I purchased this A/C in April. Very happy thus far. Loved learning even more about it from you. You might mention, and/or pull out the removable/washable filter located in the front section of the unit. For me, this feature was in my top 5 must haves and in my research, I found that many window units don't give you this capability.
If anyone is interested in running this thing efficiently from 12v, Amazon has 150w inverter modules that output the perfect voltage. QS-100. You'll need 2 of them and 8 high speed diodes. It was drawing 20-30A @12v with 50% load
I don't like the idea of having the control board in the external part of the unit, it makes it exposed to humidity, water and cold weather. Have you disassembled the internal part btw? Is there any potential room for the board?
I’ve seen some people drill drainage holes in the back. They argue that they’d rather sacrifice some efficiency for longevity by reducing rust, mold and corrosion inside the unit. What are your thoughts on that?
Yea, I do not know what to say on this one since I have not personally see the slime on these units. Usually when you see slime on minsplits it is an indication that too much moisture is getting into the space - so you really want to figure that out and fix it as the best way to stop the slime. I would wonder if that might be related to what is going on with these U units? I do not think there is much hard in drilling holes to drain the water except that you will likely get rust-out around the hole since you are breaking the powder coating there. I guess if you drill the hole and then cover the bare metal inside the hole with a grommet seal then that should not cause any issues except slightly lower efficiency.
I've seen 3 of them. All have the same error in 6 months EC07. Manual says it refrigerant leak but actually it's main board defective. Spend a day to find a part no luck. Midea said "we can shipp it in September".
That looks better than what I have on my house! I have ka-chunkers that make a ton of noise because they always blow at full speed, even if only one zone is calling for cooling.
Happy to see this. I've had the 12,000 installed for a few weeks in hot weather. Took out an old conventional 10k. No comparison, the old 10 blew way more air on low than this one on high. I suspected there was one fan outside trying to blow air down through the bottom of the "U" but this vid proved me wrong, so there is an inside fan. Don't know why the flow is so weak, on Midea site many similar complaints in reviews, maybe it's the efficiency. Midea now makes a similar inverter AC but no U shape-MAW12HV1CWT, smart inverter with heat mode but conventional shape. I wonder if that has 2 fans.
i have this same problem. it's not entirely clear why the AC throttle cooling under certain conditions. but it's super frustrating. there's a guy who is working on a hack involving tricking the exterior air thermistor.
I wonder how difficult it would be to hack it to allow setting the compressor speed to anything within its supported range. A few of those units could then be a good option for those looking to make the A/C unit(s) follow solar production closely, reducing the battery capacity needed for buffering.
I don't think you would have to do much hacking - you could probably just control the setpoint temp over the Wifi using something like a RaspberryPi! Add something like a Sense.com power monitor and you should be able to pretty accurately match the load to the solar supply on the time scale of minutes to hours.
This looks like a pretty standard Midea unit. There exists some debugging tools for Midea air conditioners that can communicate with their split models and drive them, but I don't know if they will work for this. On 9000btu mini split, the compressor draws less than 200 W under its minimum speed, but there is a limitation on how low you can go, because the compressor has minimum RPM for oil lubrication.
Have you figured out how to open the front and clean it up? I got mold issues on the front fans and don't know how to properly and efficiently clean it
EDIT: Somehow this issue has resolved itself. No more tickety tickety sound. I don't understand how that's possible, but I'm happy. I hope it does not recur. Does no one else have the problem of a rattling, ticking, clicking, "playing card in bicycle spokes," "Wheel of Fortune" sound when the compressor is off and the interior fan is running? Tickety tickety tickety tickety. The sound does not change in frequency as the interior fan speed changes, so I do not believe the fan blades are contacting anything or that the squirrel cage is unbalanced. Oddly, the ticking does increase in frequency (not in pitch but rather rapidity) and fades away to inaudible as the compressor ramps up, and it remains inaudible for as long as the compressor is running. I am within an inch of loving this unit and raving about it to everyone I know, but this clicking sound is driving me bonkers, as it's easily louder and definitely more irritating than any other sounds the unit makes.
Love my 12,000 btu unit. Same size as the 8k but more powerful. Even looks small and physically is. Great design and company. My remote doesn't work though ...
That could be on of the parts it´s like when you hear a releay whistle or you hear an Old tv. Around your mid 20ies Humans experiance a lose in the Frequency band they hear. Usaly from around 28. I think i´m more impressed that his Audio equipment pics it up, it speaks for some quality.
It's a byproduct of inverter compressors. I have an LG Inverter Window AC. I am completely impressed with it but was very interested in seeing how this unit faired. From what I can tell it seems they are almost on the same level. Only this one takes it a step further by having the compressor on the outside vs the LG which is still one whole unit but still manages to be very quiet. These new units blow away the traditional window AC's out of the water.
Yeah... The whining/squeal is a bit frustrating. I notice he mentioned there's a blanket for the compressor that likely comes equipped but mine doesn't have that :(
I have two of them. 12k and I love them! I wish they used better plastic though and a humidity sensor. I connected them to Amazon Alexa so I can just set the temperature with my voice. Also, you can ask what is the temperature in your room because of the built-in sensor...
Hey, very useful video. We just ran a whole summer of this AC and it accumulated water like nothing we've ever seen and we don't even live in a particularly humid area. We're lost about how to keep it clean inside. It's a bit of a dusty and corroded mess. Is there a relatively easy way to remove the components of the back part to clean properly?
that's awesome! finally some contemporary tech! it'd be even better to have a U unit that worked without blocking the window. (that one but flipped over)
Agreed! SoleusAir makes one. Here is the link... soleusair.com/index.php/2020/05/16/press-release-the-2020-winner-for-best-global-design-for-housewares-and-home-electrics-is-soleus-air/ It is a harder problem because walls can be much thicker than windows. Another interesting design that I have not seen would be completely flat with horizontal coils indoor and out. This could potentially be more efficient & confortable because of the upward air flow, but would require some creativity on the compressor placement. Maybe use a few of the soda-can sized ones in a row?
Any sense of the noise on the OUTDOOR side? It seems like it would be somewhat lower by virtue of the variable speed compressor and fan. I have neighbors not to far from my current window unit and even from the end of the "canyon" crated by our two buildings, I notice a lot of white noise from my current unit - the dominant noise by far. I've noticed window units and this seem to "PUSH" the air at the outdoor heat exchanger, it seems like mini split outdoor units "PULL" the air through the heat exchanger, which seems quieter. I'm guessing this would be quieter (on the outside side) than a typical window AC but not as quiet as a traditional mini split.
You right, the outside side is louder than the inside side, but quieter than the outside side of a normal window unit. Of course nothing is as quiet as a nicely built minisplit outdoor unit like the MCROOL ones!
Now I'm really wishing you took the front apart as well lol. The whole inside of my unit has a bunch of black mold built up in only about 2-3 months :( I need to take it apart and clean it out.
e Channel 10 months ago Three screws under the front cover then unplug 3 wires. Use screw driver to pry open the front cover. It IS only snapped in. Then two screws on top. 3 screws on each side then you have to unsnap gray cover to get to fan.Just opened mine. Fan stopped spinning. Put grease on rubbeer holding fan in place. It was making whining noise then stopped spinning. Works fine now. e Channel 10 months ago Three screws under the front cover then unplug 3 wires. Use screw driver to pry open the front cover. It IS only snapped in. Then two screws on top. 3 screws on each side then you have to unsnap gray cover to get to fan.Just opened mine. Fan stopped spinning. Put grease on rubbeer holding fan in place. It was making whining noise then stopped spinning. Works fine now.
How do i get into the evaporator section to clean the coil and blower wheel that has covered itself in dirt and mold. This is a problem with these units. Mold builds up fast. I need to at least see what's in there so i don't get water on the motor when i attempt a cleaning of the blower wheel. Any help is appreciated.
e Channel 10 months ago Three screws under the front cover then unplug 3 wires. Use screw driver to pry open the front cover. It IS only snapped in. Then two screws on top. 3 screws on each side then you have to unsnap gray cover to get to fan.Just opened mine. Fan stopped spinning. Put grease on rubbeer holding fan in place. It was making whining noise then stopped spinning. Works fine now.
That would be a heat pump, which requires reversible valves to reconfigure which way the compressor and expansion valve flow. Those coolant valves are a very different thing than just making it a split system
Yea, I'd love to spend some time figuring out a way to split this unit without releasing the charge so people without AC equipment could do it. Maybe by crushing the pipes in two places so you could then cut in the spot in between, and then using vampire taps to remake the connections?
@@bigjoshlevine you still need to pull a vacuum on the new lines. Perhaps some entrepreneurially minded individual would be interested in selling units ready for split installation. Ship them with pre-charged lines. The valved fittings already exist
@@Homestead_Adjacent I was thinking you could just blow a little puff of refrigerant to purge the new lines when you connect them (like when connecting lines to normal AC service port) so no need to pump down. There would be a little bit of moisture trapped in there, but hopefully the filter drier would be able to clean that up. Midea could ship a split version of this with quick connect fittings like MR COOL does, but not really their market. But there might be enough demand for someone who has the equipment and certificate to start selling properly modified U units with with quick connects already installed. LMK if you decide to be that someone! :)
@@bigjoshlevine for $200 a unit it's hard to beat. But the efficiency needs to get better. There's a senville 9000btuh with a stunning 16.2 EER. In a van efficiency is everything. I even considered powering the Midea unit with a boost converter. 12vdc to 180vdc. No power factor issues anymore. Some of the mini splits can run directly from solar DC
Great video, thanks! We are really enjoying our new unit but another request for any information on disabling the annoying beep when you reset anything. It is way too loud. We have asked the manufacturer for a firmware update but no reply.
I already put mine back together, but I bet you could find the speaker pretty easily if you were willing to remove the cover. If so, you could either cut one of the leads, or probably even just put a piece of tape over the hole.
I can't find a tear down of the front of this unit anywhere online or RU-vid. Can you access the blower fan from removing the rear or the front of the interior unit?
e Channel 10 months ago Three screws under the front cover then unplug 3 wires. Use screw driver to pry open the front cover. It IS only snapped in. Then two screws on top. 3 screws on each side then you have to unsnap gray cover to get to fan.Just opened mine. Fan stopped spinning. Put grease on rubbeer holding fan in place. It was making whining noise then stopped spinning. Works fine now.
people have complained not being able to figure out how to open the front to clean out the condenser drain and everything else in the front, especially when mold gets on the fins and inner walls, could you do that video
e Channel 10 months ago Three screws under the front cover then unplug 3 wires. Use screw driver to pry open the front cover. It IS only snapped in. Then two screws on top. 3 screws on each side then you have to unsnap gray cover to get to fan.Just opened mine. Fan stopped spinning. Put grease on rubbeer holding fan in place. It was making whining noise then stopped spinning. Works fine now.
My only complaint with the one I have is the inside fan. When it’s running on auto and just the fan is running, it has an annoying sound that can make it hard to go to sleep and even has woken me up. Other than that, I have no complaints.
Thank you very much for the explanation. This electronic circuit converts alternating current into direct current, isn't it? If it runs on direct current, how many amps and how many volts are needed to run the machine? How much is it in US dollars, and where can I buy it? Is it an air conditioning unit with a heat pump?
Here is a great post where someone has gotten one of these to run on DC... diysolarforum.com/threads/midea-u-12k-power-from-dc-it-works.77577/page-2#post-994190 On low, it uses 316V * 0.34A. These typically cost $200-300US and you can buy them everywhere, including Amazon... amzn.to/4c2dpkh This model only has cooling mode, no heating mode.
You've mentioned to people hoping to split the two halves for a variety of applications, mostly RV situations, and suggested it may be easier to buy all new parts and make someone specific. But this sounds more difficult for someone with zero experience no? Doesn't the MideaU control board have features you would struggle to replicate if making it yourself? It has IoT connectivity and multiple temp sensors and smarts for calculating the best power draw for the situation. I have finally found a tech willing to evac and refill for me and I'm narrowing in on doing this in my own vehicle, but still trying to fully grasp every option before I commit to this complicated route.
Josh, do you have any tips on how we can open the front cover so we can clean the blower vents? Our unit has been great, but after not being used for the summer there's some mold or dust in there we don't want to be breathing!
Here is a visual guide to taking the indoor side to bits. The hardest part is unsnapping the plastic snaps that hold the clamshell together. I used a pair of flathead screwdrivers, but there is probably a better way. photos.app.goo.gl/HkgipAV39j8BWXWm7
We love ours, but it removes zero water from the air as far as we can tell. Humidity doesn't drop (stays 55-60%) & there is no water dripping outside. Is that expected/normal?
Usually the target indoor humidity is 40-60% so it is possible that the airconditioner is not getting the temp down below the dew point of the air. You can try switching to dry mode which is supposed to run the coils colder and the fan slower to condense out more humidity. Normally this unit is designed to heat up and evaporate the water that ends up un the bottom pan, so should not drip any.
@@bigjoshlevine Thanks. We tried Dry mode as well with no better results. I hadn’t realized this unit will evaporate the condensate. Maybe it did pull some moisture out, but it just didn’t change the readings in the room. We’d prefer the drip & low energy consumption, given a choice. Then again, we may add a second unit over the garage and dripping from there would be a nuisance.
e Channel 10 months ago Three screws under the front cover then unplug 3 wires. Use screw driver to pry open the front cover. It IS only snapped in. Then two screws on top. 3 screws on each side then you have to unsnap gray cover to get to fan.Just opened mine. Fan stopped spinning. Put grease on rubbeer holding fan in place. It was making whining noise then stopped spinning. Works fine now.
I own this unit. You better believe you can hear the 6kHz compressor inside. My neighbors complain about it, too. The window foam does not install well and gaps let the sound through but the bulk of the compressor sound comes right through the inside filter. It’s a high pitch sound that leaves my ears ringing from about 12 feet away in my office.
I like the saddle desing better because less window space is blocked. what would be best way to protect control panel if the unit was instaelled backwards to act as a heat pump.
Hey Josh this was super helpful to get some more background on how this unit is designed and works. I actually stumbled onto this because I got mine about 2 months ago and I'm really happy with it's performance with one glaring exception I've been trying to troubleshoot: The AC unit itself is very quiet and while it's clearly vibrating a bit (I think a bit too much) it doesn't sound loud when running and is even barely noticeably rattling unless you hold it with your hands while running. However, the vast majority of the time it's running it's shaking enough as to make a pipe or something in the wall, what sounds like maybe 2 or three fit from the window, shake so much that it makes an incredibly loud rattling sound. I wasn't sure if it was the AC or something in the wall at first but if you just put both hands on the wall and put some pressure against it, it immediately stops. Remove the pressure, super loud rattling is back. I've removed and reinstalled the AC in the window three times now, paying special attention to how I can mount it more firmly and fill in spaces with foam padding and blocks to fit it more tightly to no avail. The inconsistency is maddening. For a while I thought it was only occurring on the Dry setting (and it does seem to be very consistently happening on that setting) but it also happens on Cool. I've been trying to figure out if it's more the window mounting being too loose or a loose compressor/related part since it seems to never happen on auto/fan modes. Sometimes I go days without hearing it, sometimes I can't go more than a few minutes without hearing it. Sometimes turning the fan off and on again will make it go away for hours or days-sometimes I'll do that and it won't go more than a minute or two before it kicks back in. I can get a technician to come look at it but since I suspect the fix may be as simple as adjusting my mounting or opening it up and tightening a loose part (maybe something that was looser than it should be due to shipping etc) I'd like to try diagnosing and solving it myself. At first it was just mildly annoying and not concerning but there have been a few times where it is rattling so violently that even with noise cancelling headphones that block out the sound, I can feel the rattling up through the floor at my desk ~ 8 ft away from it. Any thoughts on how to adjust the mounting or starting places to check for loose parts inside? No worries if not, still really appreciate getting this context into how it works!
Yea, intermittent rattling noises can be very hard to find in cars and in AC units! It usually means some moving part it banging or rubbing against so other part so they have to be just the right distance away from each other to make the noise- too close and they are pressing, too far and they don't touch. I usually do what it seems like you are doing - looking for patterns both in what is moving when the noise happens and what things I can move to change the noise. Besides pushing and pulling on part, you can also try twisting by lifting one corner or another. You can also try to listen very carefully to try to hear around where the noise in coming from and then go after that spot by taking it apart and putting putty or duct tape on the rubbing/banging parts.
Question: Would this create a vaccum pulling outside or other room air in? My window or worse portable units seem to pull in air from elsewhere. This might be a better solution than a traditional mini-split in my current situation. Thank you for taking the time to make and share the video.
How old are you because when you turned this on my ears almost broke. The high pitch HZ sound is insane! Can you not hear it in the video? I hear it is at 14.4hz which my mom cannot hear but I can.
I'm pretty old, but I can still hear 14.4khz, and I do hear the whine from the motor in the unit. :) But it is coming from the outside part, so I don't hear it when it is mounted in a window with everything sealed up. Are you hearing it inside with the unit well mounted and sealed up?
This came out a few years ago, I think GE's Profile came out after... not sure which to get. The GE is an inverted U... on an n, I suppose... same basic idea.
To all the refrigeration Engineers out there... census unit is optimized for a capillary tube, would installing a TXV give the increased efficiency of a TXV or with the programming optimized for a capillary conflict with the txv?
Also, trying to figure out the same with Midea DUO Smart 12,000 BTU Dual Hose 4-in-1 Inverter Portable Air Conditioner, how to disassemble to access the WIFI module?
This looks similar to the Zero Breeze, which I did a teardown of here... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-W8R3Gqm0LDU.html These have very narrow cases where I think they are a good fit since they are not really "split" and so you loose efficiency and comfort.
@@bigjoshlevine there is a teardown here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MgJ3-Wr-q2I.html I think it's quite different, it apparently is inverter controlled and evaporates the condensate.
