Excellent video! You've explained this in good detail! Goj g through this right now as we speak. I figured the shocks were bad but you gave me more of a confirmation! Thanks!
Finally getting around to changing struts and shocks on my 2011 Ford Escape. She only has 241k on the clock. When new, she rode like a Lincoln. Now, more like the plastic Big Wheel bike I had as a kid. Just replaced the tie rods, ball joints, lower control arms, bushings and sway bar link pins. After the struts and shocks... New set of premium Michelins! Your video is motivating me to keep on wrenchin'
@@maximusp210 Same here, hit a piece of metal recently that cut a 2" slit in my tire, now it sounds like someone is hitting the floorboard with a sledgehammer when i hit a bump on that side even a small one or a dip or speed bump.
Another problem of wear I have experienced is the rubber spring isolators and jounce bumpers (Chrysler's name for them) deteriorating over time. When the tire goes over a bump and the suspension reacts the way it basically should, but there is a metallic rattle anyway, these may have gone bad. Also, if you ever see small chunks of rubber in your garage or driveway where you park the vehicle, these could be deteriorating and disintegrating. When I changed the shocks on my 2005 Sebring which I have owned since new and driven carefully, all rubber parts were disintegrated. I could've just replaced the rubber parts and been fine, but the labor is the same to replace all the parts. If you value your time, its best to tear it apart only once.
You can also do the bounce test your self. Just push hard down on your car on all four corners above each wheel. If the car continues to bounce after you let go the struts are bad. It will bounce up and down as your doing it but it should stop quick when you let go if it continues to bounce they are long gone should be replaced.
I've been getting a bad clunking/rattling in my 2016 F150. Can't see anything obvious in the suspension. I replaced both stabilizer bar links. Didn't change anything. Starting to think it's one of the struts. This video has been very helpful. Going to replace both struts with Rough Country coil overs with built in 2" lift to level out the factory rake.
Thank you for your video, very informative, I think the word you're looking for is if someone is abusing their car, with potholes, and just driving likes a bunch of fools, Then yea, they're abusing their car, and parts are going out faster than normal.
Thank you for this video. Seems like what I am going through. I experience what you talked about when going over bumps, but also I'm noticing it more when I accelerate. Is that also possible? Also big question, how much would one be looking at to get them replaced?
Awesome informative video. I recently was on the interstate and hit a decent sized piece of metal that cut a 2" hole in my front right tire. I put the spare on and didnt notice much. I got a cheaper replacement so I could get back on the road. After hitting the metal I notice a clunking like someone is hitting the floorboard with a sledgehammer mostly on the side that got hit when I hit a bump even a mild one. I do a lot of my own car work but shocks and struts are something I havent tackled yet, my suspicion is there is play in the shock piston like you said. What do you think? BTW subbed and liked! Thanks Adam. Funny thing is its a 2006 civic coupe with 317k on it.
Sounds a lot like your strut is done. May want to check ball joint and tie rod as well just to be sure. Struts aren't to hard if you have all the right tools. I would suggest not getting a cheap strut or else you might be doing it again. Gabriel, KYB, Sachs and Monroe. Though Monroe is my last choice. If you get it with the springalready installed it is a lot easier/faster, and need less tools. Drop the old strut out and put the new one in.
Struts are difficult to assess compared to shocks because the coil spring make the bounce test impossible to do. The easiest thing when you buy a used car is to consider the milesage and just change the struts if it looks like they are old. You are, however, going into different financial territory depending on whether you can do it yourself or you have to pay a shop. LIttle expenses are an issue too, for example, bellows, bushings and mounts. These things can cost you more than the struts themselves, especially if you buy them from the neighborhood parts store. A quick strut, that means a complete assembly with all parts ready to bolt in, is a good option. But these are pricey. My sources say, don't use a no-name product. I have a light vehicle, a 1990's subcompact. I have less to worry about. If you have a heavy vehicle, you are at higher risk of broken springs and shock failure if you use an unknown product. Or even a known product. HArd to know what;s good with all the outsourcing going on these days. Your brand name might be the exact same production as some cheaper product.
I feel vibrations when sitting at idle but it’s only if the car is positioned a certain way. Also when backing out and coming to a stop. Replaced all engine mounts. Looked at both shock assembly, the drivers side was covered in oil, while the passenger was completely dry. Also noticed when coming to a sudden stop I got clunk. Think my shock/strut assembly is the issue.
Hi Matthew Thanks for the video.How do I know if the springs are bad ?When I go over a pothole all I get is a thud sound no bouncing.On the front end of the car there is barely any bounce when I push it down.I have a Jetta 2014.
For springs, when it breaks, the car sits lower than it should or leans.Older BMWs are known for the rear springs breaking. May be the top strut mount that went bad. But, to be sure, check the control arm bushings and ball joint.
Good video you made. My car does not make jump on sudden bump, just sudden vibrate. Currently I have changed the shocks but worn early in 5 days. How I check for the springs problem, may be?
My car would wonder in a hard wind and like shimmy and shake, The steering would lightly stick in a position if you turned the wheel slightly, Bumps or grooves in the road would shake the whole car, tires wore badly and it kept breaking Sway bar end links. I replaced both lower control arm bushings and ball joints, steal bad. Problem stayed turns out its the struts. Hope this helps somebody It was hard to diagnose them too on a older vehicle cuz all problems can be a few things. Front end dives down on bad breaking too
Can a person repair bad shocks, seals and strutt at home Diy option instead of replacing them as they sold as a unit in my case. Strutt and shock together? Regards Matthew Lottering and thank you for the very well presented and professional video👌🏻💪🏻 top class mate 10/10⭐️
Thank you! Bilstien shocks are often what is called "bench serviceable" meaning you can rebuild them at home, but it would take some special tools and usually a cylinder of compressed nitrogen. Usually only people who are racing and rebuilding their shocks regularly would consider doing this. In general its probably better to just buy new shocks unless this is something you are really interesting in.
Just removed a strut from a Tahoe that looked like it was turning into dust. Took off two shocks off a Grand Marquis that were really hard and no longer softened ride.
Hi Matthew great video! I wonder if you can give some advice on my situation. I just changed all four Quick struts in my 03’ toyota hilander after watching you video and immediately change the stance and ride of my car. But when i drove it on the freeway, every time im going to hit an uneven pavement my front driver side rebounds fast and make a “TUG” sound when it retracts back full extension. Could this be a defective quick strut sir? Because i dont have that sound before I changed my struts. Thank in advance!
Thank you for your information. I have a 2019 GMC sierra slt 4x4. The inner side of my front tires worn but the rest of the tire was good. I replace the tires and i now see it wearing the tire again. After replacing the 2 front tires i got a wheel alignment as i was pulling to the right, and the steeringvwheel was in correct position. Tirecwear is uneven on inner edge , kind of choppy. Was told i needed new shocks, ( they are oem coilover struts). Is shock replacement the answer? Sldo i have 97k original miles on truck.
I can see the whole strut mount moving up and down under the hood when i push up and down on the front end .also lot of rusty orange dust on the mount and the car handles really poorly over bumps would you say its time for new struts?
Thanks good input .is there away to test air shocks with taking them out I changed the lines but it just goes straight down also I tow trailers a lot is there a shock that's better for that or does that make a whole lotta difference
@@goddom yes it does I'm just not sure if it's because I changed the lines.i think I'm going to change them out I need to get back to work an this is it my only form of transport ....thanks for your response.
I don't know if you can help me or not but I drive a Subaru legacy and when I hit a bump in the Rd there is a loud thud in the front end and am unsure what's causing it. My first thought would be the shocks but I was told my car would b bouncy if it was and my car is the complete opposite, it's more firm than anything and doesn't bounce at all when pushed on. Would be great if you could let me know what you think it could be. Thanks
Hello, it could be the shock, or the shock mount. Also something to check would be motor mounts. Another thing to check is the ball joints. Is the thump coming from one side or the other?
What would the problem be if you ride over a bump and the car does not bounce back up? I also can't push down on the front corner of the car to test the struts.
Can bad shocks cause a low pitch bass type of sound kind of like when 1 window is down helicopter effect. Especially around 60 mph. Brand new tires all around so not a tire
Well, I would say its best preactice. If, for instance, you just replaced them and then one got damaged, then replacing one is OK. Otherwise, I would suggest replacing both if possible.
My 2000 Dodge Intrepid, 2.7L... Front Strut has been making clunking noise. Sounds like metal to metal noise. NO bouncing action at all! We have severe pot holes on our streets here in Western NY. Is this a possibility they are bad? Thank you... Dee
...and so he makes a 12 minute video. 🤣🤣🤣 I know how they work. I need to know if it's just the top mount or the mount AND the strut, please. I still liked your video, it helped. I live in Michigan. which is my main problem, seriously. 😳
I feel like i'm sitting in a classroom where I have to take notes and I'm going to be quiz at the end of the class. 😒 1A Auto open my eyes of what the hell what's going on with my front end suspension. They have a good arranged of videos about struts and struts replacement. They even show you how to replaced them. Thanks for the video.
Great video. I have a few questions 1. Which state is your workshop located? 2. Is buying strut from dealership guarantee of manufacturer brand? 3. Looking to change front strut of Toyota Corolla LE 2016 and so asking such questions 4. Any shop you can recommend for buying these parts as I continue my research? Thank you
Hello, I live in MIchigan and my workshop is just my garage. #2 - Yes, they should only be supplying OEM replacement parts #4 - I buy most of my parts from rockauto.com - it looks like a 1990s website, but they usually have the best price, even with shipping.
Clunking can be so many more common failures. The 2 biggest are ball joint wear, and sway bar frame bushings. Both are easy enough to both visually find, or to check with an everyday tire iron after jacking up the car in a driveway. Otherwise, a pretty good explanation. Just wanted to make sure viewers don't get the wrong idea that struts fail more than the other suspension parts.
Just to add, would of probably been best to make a base video, addressing all possible clunks, then make offspurt videos from that, I hate to think how long this video could of been including all that too, ha.
Loved the video. 2007 Mini Cooper S with 182K miles. 2nd owner as of 53K. So, certain the struts are at least 130K. Every bump, rear of car shifts side to side. All 4 tires (Mich Primacy mxv4 50K rated tires) replaced 10K ago. noticed a lot of wear on rear. so I didn't rotate and fronts look good but rear are completely gone. Ride is not bouncy, the rear just shimmys left to right with any bump or seem in the pavement and goes side to side to side and stops. Hit another bump, and the same thing, shimmys back and forth 2 or 3 times. From your explanation, I presume it's more than likely worn out struts. I don't mean to sound stupid, but does this side to side action make sense to assume it's the struts?
Side to side could be cause by other things, but I would start with the rears - and lucky for you I believe those woudl be rear shocks which are cheaper and easier to replace. If you still experience the side to side, you will have to check your rear trailing arm bushing - but I think the shocks will probably fix the issue. Go with Bilstein or Sachs.
Hello and thank you for the video. My struts are the original and have 20 years. In my country there are roads made of stone bricks very irregular. When I pass on them the sounds heard from suspension are like rapid continuous "shots". But in regular roads everything is fine. Do you think that only the spring is working? Already changed the control arm and the bar links because they were 20 years old, bad and are cheap. I know I should replace the shock absorbers and the top mounts because of the age. But is expensive and I want to be sure. Thanks for your opinion.
It could. Sometimes when one shock is blown and the other isn't it can give you that. Also may need to look at ball joints or other suspension parts being worn out.
Man I think you just answered my question I've been wondering what's been wrong with my 97 Toyota Corolla everything you have said basically my car does I rotated my tires because there was outer wear on the tires so now I think it is the struts and pretty sure but this vehicle is the base model so I noticed there was no stabilizer bars so I called Toyota gave them the VIN they said this vehicle does not come with stabilizer bars question I have to you is that true just some Vehicles come without stabilizer bars and inner links cuz I thought that was my problem until the Toyota dealer said they do not come with the interlinks or stabilizer bar switch shocked me but I think you have answered my questioning the way you have explained it that's exactly what my car does but maybe you can answer my question on the whole stabilizer bar thank you and sorry for kind of repeating myself
It may sound weird, but cars don't need sway bars. In fact, a friend of mine and I have philosophical discussions on going sway-barless in our track cars. Why do you suspect the sway bar links? Clunking noise?
Matthew, my Mustang 2001 and 240K and has the original shocks and it doent have any vibrations or any bouncing,,I've been advised to replace those, but I dont feel any failure symptoms...Please advice, should I replace those even though I have no negative feelings, of course that when I drive over the railroad tracks I do feel some shaking, but normal shaking like any other car...
I am sure they are probably worn out and its suggested to change them, but it doesn't sound like they are dangerous so you are probably OK driving on them for now.
I have that clunking nois on my chrylser 300 and its worst this year. Be fore i put it in the shop i notice you stated it could be something on top of the strut, i ask i machanic if the top bearing are bad and the shocks and springs are fine could i just replace the bearings, he said i had to replace the struts. Is that true. The cost to replace is $525. When they put it on the rack, they gone have to show me why i need knew shocks is there anything else you recommend me not to pay for something i dont need, im thinking bout doing it my self and lastly do i need a wheel alignment afterwards. Thanks.
It could be the strut mount at the top, but the cost of replacing that component may not save you much especially if that turns out not to be the issue. Replacing them yourself isn't to hard usually, especially if you buy them fully assembled - shock and spring together. It is suggested that you get an alignment afterward, but honestly, I have replaced struts and not done an alignment and was fine. If you start getting uneven tire wear, then get an alignment. I hope this helps.
3 reliable shops have said my right front strut needs to be replaced and has signs of fluid leak on my 2000 Ford taurus with 150k.. But I dont have any symptoms at all while driving and no uneven tire wear. i don't get it. should i just wait?
I think you can. If you aren't getting any bad tire wear or tires bouncing when going over bumps and the ride seems good, then I don't see why you need to replace them right now.
Probably. Its not a for sure, but if you keep bottoming them out, its likely they are completely blown. Check you tires for signs of cupping and that will confirm they are toast. This video, right after the intro shows some serious cupping: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ohCyotiXJVg.html
2014 Civic 342000 kms, I changed my struts approximately 95000 kms ago with Monroe Quick Struts, never really liked them but left them on. Now there’s a clunking or banging over potholes not speed bumps. Checked the links and bushings and all good. Top of strut a little bit wet. I’m thinking time to change the struts? This time I’ll be going with KYB’s! What do you think?
Also forgot to describe the crunching sound and feeling when turning left and right with bad upper strut mounts. It can sound like the world is coming to an end, lol. Sometimes the strut mounts get stuck and will literally bang like a gun when you turn while barely moving and go over a bump. The strut bearing is getting stuck in one position, and when you hit a bump while the steering wheel is maxed out in one direction, the bearing breaks loose and "bangs". It can be scary AF. Lol
Jiggle left to right? If that is the case - one check and make sure none of the suspension arms are loose - if none of them are, then the likely culprit is that one of the shocks is blown and the other isn't. I would always suggests replacing shocks in pairs.
MI have an 2010 Nissan maxima. I installed front monroe quick struts. Now whenever i go over a bump my care feels like has no struts. It works fine on smaller bumps but over bigger one it will like the struts will go through the car. My old ones with 120k were much better. Are Monre bad?
Hi thanks for the video I have sonata 2011 when drive over the edge of the driveway curb I hear very bad knocking Not bounce at all from the front left wheel . All ball joints are oem new so the end links too . No leaks from the struts . Dealer ship couldn't know what's the problem they want to replace the struts as it is the last thing could cause the knocking In high speed I don't have problem only on the very low speed over sudden crack . How to tell if it is the upper Mount only ??
Usually the only way to tell if its the upper mount is to remove the strut and inspect the mount for any play or visual defects. Unfortunately, at that point, the labor they will charge you to inspect the mount its worth getting the shock or strut assembly replaced.
I have Toyota Camry 2006 model and since 100000 KM did not change front and rear shock absorber. I am feeling lots of wobbling sound even on little rough surface, is it time to replace strut/ shock absorber ? If yes , is it adviceable to replace front with genuine toyota spare part and rear with non genuine toyota product like KYB strut to save some bucks ?
As long as you replacement with good quality parts, you will be fine. KYB is a good brand and may actually be the company that made the Toyota parts so you can use KYB for all of them if you like.
Thanks for your advice helpful I have 2016 hydundia elantra we replaced the control arm & we just replaced the sway bar & when I hit a bump clunk noise us still there I have 89833 miles on the car, it had 72586 when I got it, had the car for. One year. I hit a lot of bumps , all the new stuff on the right side of the car that my friend put on .The clunking is still happening, so we need to replace the strut & spring???
We have a 2004 Toyota Highlander that is now riding like a clown car! The bouncing is awful. No clunking. Its been in for a wheel alignment, which did not fix its problem. Just over 106,000 miles. So if we only have the bouncing /swaying, it could still be the struts or shocks and not something else?
I have 175k miles on my trailblazer...all shocks/struts were never changed.... I know for a fact i need engine mounts but im wondering if bad shocks/struts could cause driving issues at highway speeds? I feel a sort of vibration/roughness at highway speeds in the front end...
Yes, probably will cause some of that. You may want to look at some of your other steering and suspension components for looseness. Ball joints, and tie rods. Jack up the one wheel, grab it at 9 and 3 o'clock oposition and see if there is looseness. Then do the same at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions. Do both sides. Maybe have a friend wiggle the wheel while you look underneath to see if there is play in the linkages.
@goddom thanks...I will try to see if I see anything that is out of the norm when I do the 9-3 and 12 6 shake of the wheel...I should double check the wheels too to make sure they are in fact in balance...I don't trust some of these shops
