I've watched endless hours of watch repair on RU-vid, this is the most comprehensive explanation of replacing a balance staff that I've seen. Including roller removal.
Thanks for this video! This is the best video I've seen about changing a balance staff. I've been gathering the tools to try it myself with the help of this video!
I use the same roller removal tool, it works well just by sliding the wheel with the roller still attached the balance staff. No need to squeeze the tool as the ledge that fits between the wheel and roller is tapered so it essentially acts like a wedge to separate the two parts.
This was great, many thanks for the tips you shared, priceless. What Horia sortment of presses would you recommend? There is a set of 12 presses (Horia assortment no 3) and 6 anvils. The presses ranges from 70 to 180 (guess it's 0,7 to 1,80 mm). Thank you.
Thanks for the video and for sharing. Now I thought that the balance screws could be turned IN or OUT in order to alter the gravitational center, was that wrong?
You aren't wrong, but also not completely correct. There are screws that can be moved in and out, but only certain screws. Most of the crews on the balance are fixed and are just there for weight. You always need to poise a balance but removing or adding weight, after a staff is changed.
Is this the most common problem with mechanical watches that won't run ? I'm looking on Ebay and wonder what is the reason many vintage wind-up watches won't run.
It's one of the problems, and when it comes to watches before shock protection it can very likely be the culprit. Many watches won't run though just due to the fact that they haven't been serviced and all the old oil is gummed up.
@@PrecisionHorology Thanks you. Assuming a vintage mechanical watch is only gummed up, how long of a job is to have it cleaned by a professional ? Just trying to figure out the costs. Assuming a standard wind-up model.
Beautiful to see. Quick question Ashton... After watching this I'm looking to purchase a Horia Jewelling tool, I note there is a 3mm and 4mm spindle version does it make a difference which I buy? Thank you and keep up the great content.
Good informative video, giving me confidence to re-rivet my own. Pity about the hand which obstructed the camera at the wrong moment in that you were turning the stake between hits. Henry B Fried or Archie B Perkins said to use a brass headed hammer for stake work, so I always do - can you comment on that?
@@PrecisionHorology From what I have read, a brass hammer has less chance of damaging the end of the punch where you strike it. The end of the punch will get mushroomed over time and it will be hard to insert the punch in the inverted position (used as a stump).
I tried to keep my hand to a minimum, but I am only an amateur videographer. If you can’t fill in the blanks of when I’m turning the work piece or hitting a stake with a hammer, I’d suggest a new hobby. Watchmaking may not be for you…
