I fully back this product, we use it all the time on fences and pergolas etc. Concrete has its pros but on projects where wooden posts are needed for aesthetics (like cedar screening) post savers are a must! Topsoil literally eats through wood when its in direct contact. The extra strain on the base of the post from the wind then snaps it off. We take posts out all the time rotted off at ground level and yet the two ends in perfect condition. To let everyone know how good this product is, my local fence supplier doesn't sell or use them on their own installations as it'll have a detrimental affect on their future business. 👍 A budget hand held gas cooking torch is is adequate to install them.
Always the way... If you want an easier job installing your posts next time, consider using our sleeves with wooden posts. Same lifespan, cheaper, easier and arguably nicer looking too!
Most of the comments above make me chuckle. Chap advertising something useful and all you lot can do is criticise or say something else is better or just as good or cheaper, but you actually don't know. Creosote 30 years ago is a lot different than today
Exactly right Janet, we appreciate and respect there is a lot of long-standing opinions on fencing but unfortunately when it comes to preservatives and creosote, things aren't as they used to be... We hope that our products will fill the gap for those who need it, we only invented the product because we our fence fell over!
An way to siphon money from you. I line up my posts and put a 30" mark (2.5ft) up the post and using left over paint that I scrounged up from neighbors and a local hardware stores that collects them for clean disposal, I used it to paint the posts bottoms while adding some extra wide glass tape lengthwise at the bottom while the paint was tacky and allow it to dry. Then with a 5 gallon bucket of the cheapest asphalt roofing cement from Mexico I got at a roofing supply house, 50?% less than Home Depots brand, I hand smeared it at the bottom of the post. The following morning it was dry and the first post went in at 7 am and the last post went in about 7pm. Now to close off the other 3 sides of the property :(.
It is critical that the wood surface behind the outer sleeve is fully sealed, flashings stick to the surface but do not seal the surface. This allows water to track up from the ground to the top of the barrier allowing decay to start at this point. We have seen failures on utility poles that use this type of system. Hope this helps. Richard
For the protection to work it is essential that the posts surface is totally sealed, all wrap or adhesive flashing products create a partial barrier and do not seal the wood surface. This means that water and fungi can track up behind the outer wrap leading to decay. Postsaver sleeves have a meltable sealant that penetrates and seals the wood surface behind the outer sleeve preventing this. Hope this helps. Richard
I like how at 2:32 you can see the blue "waterline" a few inches below the actual barrier on the left side, the side away from the presenter. I mean the barrier is so good that it actually scared the blue water line from even reaching the barrier, how amazing is that guys? This demonstration definitely doesn't have skewed results.
Would the sleeves work at the bottom of the post hole? The water table is only a couple of feet below ground level and the post would be sitting in concrete with all that moisture surrounding it.
I wrapped my ones with dpc with electric tape at the top and bottom and dipped it in diesel first 25 years still going. Treated the rest with creacote over the years once a year in the hot summer job done .
Hi Lance Worth bearing in mind that the use of Arsenic in wood preservative was banned around 15 years ago and current wood preservatives do benefit from a more robust type of barrier protection. Regards Richard
It is critical that the wood surface behind the outer sleeve is fully sealed, flashings stick to the surface but do not seal the surface. This allows water to track up from the ground to the top of the barrier allowing decay to start at this point. We have seen failures on utility poles that use this type of system. Hope this helps. Richard
couple of coats of bitumen paint does the same, granted not as quick to use as this system though, If the wood splits then I can't see how this sleeve is any better?
This is fine until the post cracks or splits allowing decaying organisms to enter the wood. Postsaver sleeves have a tough semi elastic thermoplastic sleeve that can bridge cracks and splits up to 15mm wide ensuring protection is maintained. I hope this helps Richard
We'll find out how good this system really is in about 20 years. Some people would say use concrete or steel posts if longevity is of essence but why make it so simple.
@Guy in Colorado, Greetings! How about coating with asphalt,…. and/or first apply/soak in 1:1 diesel fuel and motor oil (used-free oil preferably),… and another alternative is first charring the wood with a propane or butane flame on the below ground portion.
No need to wait, we already have 20 years of independent test data by the BRE, Europe's largest timber test organisation. If you'd like to see a copy of our report please get in contact via our website below! www.postsaver.com/contact/
So now instead of 8 seleves you're saying I should buy 32 50lb bags for my 6x6s? In what possible world is that 'easier'? And yeah metal posts are not to code on my deck.
Hi Geoff Tapes do not penetrate and seal the wood behind the outer wrap allowing water to track up behind the tape and create a damp band at the top where decay can start. This is a problem where tape systems have been used to protect utility poles from decay where the use of tape tends to move the problem up the pole. Postsaver & Polesaver create a a water and airtight seal of the wood surface by melting and penetrating the wood with the meltable sealant preventing this issue. I hope this helps. Richard
Hi Kenn If you want to let me have your email address I can send across the independent BRE 20 year EN 252 field test report which covers this. Hope this helps. Richard
I have never used this and I cannot say it doesn't work, but I can say your testing data involved, per your website, CCA-dipped wood. 3% CCA solution and untreated wood dipped for 30 minutes. In the USA all of our wood posts are *pressure* treated and specifically ground-contact rated. In species like pine the treatment soaks multiple inches, if not all the way through. So I would have no way to know if this increases longevity of that kind of lumber inserted in the ground.
Hello Patty In response to your query, dip treating is inferior to pressure treatment. With dip treatment on this test there is only around one tenth of the preservative left in the wood after treatment when compared to a pressure treated sample. As a result of this a dip treated test sample will not long as long as a pressure treated sample. This was done to accelerate the test. As you can see after 20 years with inferior dip treated test stakes there is no decay with pressure treatment the results will be better. I hope this helps
Most of you don’t exercise or eat healthy food or you smoke /drink to excess/ take drugs etc. so don’t worry about how long the post is going to last...
Would rust from the inside out. If painted on the outside. Rocks have an electrical signature that when it touches carbon it makes it rust even faster than normal. This is why sand I put around underground piping.
For £ 8.99 you can purchase a spike that fits around the timber left in the concrete. Simply put the existing rotted post into the spike and tighten up the bolts.
You can indeed Gareth, however with timber being so expensive at the moment an extra £8.99 is a lot of money when you consider our sleeves are about £1.93 each depending on size. We appreciate that the stakes can be great for some circumstances but it's important to remember that the stakes will rust and fail over time, whereas our sleeves are proven to stand strong over 20 years. If you are looking for a more cost-effective fence or are putting in large numbers of posts, we'd urge you to consider our sleeves. Either way, whatever you're chosen solution, we hope your fence lasts :)
@@PostsaverLtd totally agree, but the thought of digging out another rotted concrete post bace in clay and installing a new post with your sleeve puts me off. The galvanised post spike is also guaranteed for 20 years.
t is critical that the wood surface behind the outer sleeve is fully sealed, flashings stick to the surface but do not seal the surface. This allows water to track up from the ground to the top of the barrier allowing decay to start at this point. We have seen failures on utility poles that use this type of system. Hope this helps. Richard
Our experience is that cracking or splitting leads to failure with liquid coatings as they are unable to bridge cracks and splits in the same was as a Postsaver sleeve. This is certainly an issue with current fast grown timber
No we have not done any specific testing on untreated Cedar. Feedback from customers who have used Postsaver sleeves on more durable untreated cedar posts indicates a lifespan that is similar to a UC4 treated softwood post fitted with a sleeve - 20 years plus. I hope this helps. Richard
@@richardgeorge2983 Thank you. We have been using them on our cedar fences here in Indiana for the last year. I have gone thru around 350 of them so far.
When you use this system with concrete, do you pour under the post and around the post in one go? Or put the post on gravel and pour concrete up to the line?
Our experience is that wood cracks and splits over time and without a tough thermoplastic outer film to provide a barrier liquid paint type coatings are unable to bridge the cracks and splits and allowing wood decaying organisms to access the core of the post of the wood leading to wood decay
Morning Bob, Please could you give more information? We have to record all failures as part of our ISO9001 quality management system. Our current recorded post failure percentage rate over 25 years is virtually zero
For the protection to work it is essential that the posts surface is totally sealed, all wrap or adhesive flashing products create a partial barrier and do not seal the wood surface. This means that water and fungi can track up behind the outer wrap leading to decay. Postsaver sleeves have a meltable sealant that penetrates and seals the wood surface behind the outer sleeve preventing this. Hope this helps. Richard
On the Polesaver side of our business we supply Polesaver sleeves to protect galvanised steel power poles and lighting columns from ground line rust, corrosion and failure. The Postsaver sleeves can be used to provide the same protection on galvanised steel posts as well. Regards Richard
t is critical that the wood surface behind the outer sleeve is fully sealed, flashings stick to the surface but do not seal the surface. This allows water to track up from the ground to the top of the barrier allowing decay to start at this point. We have seen failures on utility poles that use this type of system. Hope this helps. Richard
This is fine until the post cracks or splits allowing decaying organisms to enter the wood. Postsaver sleeves have a tough semi elastic thermoplastic sleeve that can bridge cracks and splits up to 15mm wide ensuring protection is maintained. I hope this helps Richard
For pole buildings you are better to use our Polesaver products, please see www.polesaver.com for details. With Polesaver place sleeve so 15cm above ground
Hello Jon Our barrier sleeves have been tested to A.W.P.A E1-97 Standard Method for Laboratory Evaluation to Determine Resistance to Subterranean Termites. On test there was no attack of the Postsaver protected samples by the termites . As a general rule termites are attracted to decaying wood as this is easier for them to digest. Our experience shows that by preventing decay and providing a physical barrier Postsaver sleeves greatly reduce the likelihood of termite attack. I hope this helps Richard
Our testing shows that Paint or liquid rubber provide no protection if the post cracks or splits as they cannot bridge the gap. Postsaver has a tough outer thermoplastic film that bridges cracks or splits preventing decay
Hi Oscar Our products are also used to protect steel posts and poles from ground line corrosion the number one cause of steel post and pole failure. Richard
I sprayed 2 coats of flex seal and put a rock on the bottom of hole, then filled with 3/4 minus. I am 80, so @ 100 we will see how much labor an expense I saved.
It is critical that the wood surface behind the outer sleeve is fully sealed, flashings stick to the surface but do not seal the surface. This allows water to track up from the ground to the top of the barrier allowing decay to start at this point. We have seen failures on utility poles that use this type of system. Hope this helps. Richard
Hi James, Thanks for your comment, but we're sorry to hear that! How would you have cut it? We considered a jigsaw and a circular saw but neither gave us the depth of blade we needed to make the cut. We didn't have a bandsaw available and we also considered a chainsaw but our conclusion is that it would be too brutal for the job at hand.
This is fine until the post cracks or splits breaking the coating, this allows decaying organisms to enter the wood. Postsaver sleeves have a tough semi elastic thermoplastic sleeve that can bridge cracks and splits up to 15mm wide ensuring protection is maintained. I hope this helps Richard
It's just bitumen in a convenient form in reality, always coat my posts up to 6 inches over the grade in bitumen paint, saying if the timber splits in your testing means the post is no good and will likely fail in a strong wind anyway long before rotting is an issue.
Hello Tollie Over time all posts tend to crack and with bitumen paint the decaying organisms enter the post through the crack and decay can start. Postsaver sleeves have a semi elastic outer thermoplastic sleeve that can bridge cracks up to 1/2" keeping decaying organisms out when the post cracks. Our field testing shows bitumen coatings do not increase post life whereas a composite sleeve samples have reached 20 years without decay or failure. Hope this helps. Richard