If you were using Lalvin (I only use Lalvin yeasts, so I don't know other manufacturer's recommendations), 1 gram inoculates 1 gallon. Biologically, it should make no difference. There are something like 10-15 billion viable yeast cells in a gram of dry yeast, enough to saturate a volume as small as a gallon. They will take a molecule of glucose or fructose and turn it into two molecules of carbon dioxide, and two molecules of ethanol, and some energy, which is the whole point of it from the yeast's point of view. Honey is generally 40% fructose, 30% glucose and 30% other stuff. It's that 30% of other stuff that makes the mead. Otherwise, you could just as easily ferment a sugar wash. (Sucrose is made up of one molecule of fructose and one molecule to glucose, close to the sugar content of honey.) Yeast (at least brewers yeast) releases an enzyme that splits sucrose into fructose and glucose. My guess is much of your result is because of the honey you were using. If I were going to do this (and no, I'm not going to do this), I'd use as neutral a honey as possible. Same with the yeast, use something like a EC-1118. Something that doesn't create flavors like D47. I'd also bloom the yeast. I heat 1/2 cup of the must to 100 degrees (Fahrenheit), take it off the heat and swirl/dissolve the dry yeast into it. It should start foaming in about 10-15 minutes. I'd also try to have the must at about 80-90 degrees at the time you pitch the yeast. It's easy, just heat the water you're adding to the honey. Once you pitch the yeast, and you should start seeing signs of fermentation within an hour. (I actually do this with my wines. You can't always get the must naturally up to 90 degrees, just make sure all your ingredients are at least room temperature.) This will start all three concentrations of yeast going at an optimal rate from the start, with extra flavor from the honey removed and a yeast that doesn't produce esters or other by-products that might affect the taste.
New to this channel and I’m inspired by you. Just brewed my first raspberry mead with your recipe and can’t wait for the results! Please don’t stop creating
excellent! really interesting you even noticed differences. I went into the video with the expectation that... fermentation speed would be different but you wouldn't be able to taste any difference. thank you for testing and tasting!
Hi, very cool video. I don’t have the answer for the difference in the mouthfeel/taste of your mead. But from what I have read, if your 5g yeast mead finished faster, the cells of the yeast will degrade more than the 3g and the 1g since it sit a bit longer. Those cells release different molecules (such as different type of esters, etc) and those molecules have different density than water or alcohol and might indeed have an impact on the body as well as the taste. But that is just a hypothesis 😅
Interesting outcome. I thought at the beginning that although it would take longer for the smaller amounts that the flavor profile would be the same for each.
Great video! I’ve noticed the same, more body with more yeast vs less body with less yeast. I thought I was crazy 😜 glad I’m not. I did more or less the same test except it was 1 5g packet in a 5 gal vs 1 5g packet in a 1 gal same everything else. didn’t notice any difference with melomels bc of the fruit but mos def did in traditionals…again awesome video
2g/gallon is pretty standard I thought, especially with Mead....under pitching your yeast is definitely a thing. leaving your mead sit on the lees from a stressed ferment will absolutely impart a different flavor vs the opposite.
For measuring out small amounts of dry ingredients for a 1 Gal. carboy, Try using a Lee powder measuring kit (Used for reloading ammo) The measuring cups are super accurate. Buy a new kit. Never use an old kit. Ya don't need gunpowder residue in your mead. 13 cups goes ranging from .020 to .258 grain size.
Yet another vote for part 2. I wonder if the differences are from the nutrient (in the form of dead yeast) included with the yeast, and not simply the yeast. ??? Just a guess. City Steading has started using full packets in their 1 gallon brews. They've found it to start and finish fermenting quicker. They usually don't add nutrient, however, so I have wondered if it's because of the dead yeast included with the live yeast.
@@ManMadeMead Here's my logic, the one with 5 grams of yeast has 5 times the nutrients as the 1 gram. More nutrients, healthier yeast. I don't know if that's actually what happens, totally a guess.
Question about trub (lees?) left in primary: I imagine you had more biomass, etc. in the 5g-batch, yes? I ask because I’ve used varying amounts of yeast & with 5g there was so much trub that racking off to age left quite a bit of liquid behind. Thanks.
Maybe the mouth feel is effected a little by the larger mouth glasses compared to the smaller one due more surface area as it sitting alcohols slowly evaporate. So after awhile one may feel a little less viscous. Possibly.
Unrelated to the topic of the video, but have you tried making lemon/lemonade mead? I personally really like the combination of lemon and honey and it just now occurred to me that it would probably make a pretty good mead
I've watched some of your videos and have my first batch going at the moment. It's been going for 24 days and is still bubbling like crazy!!! I'm sure fro. Your videos you have said just leave it till it stops bubbling so much.... is this correct?
Could it be the Honey used in each test? The original was Avocado and the second was Blueberry, also, you used different types of yeast which could affect the flavors.
I think 3 is the best. 5 means that some yeast might not get enough nutrients (or honey in their system) to truly be happy, which could lead to some stress.
@@ManMadeMead I belive pitch rate is more necessary, (after repeated experimentation.) Nutrient to me, turbo charges the yeast too much, it tends allow the yeast to eat past its “posted” abv% tolerance.
When BC did his silly blow out thing midway through the tasting, an interesting question hit me: have you guys considered having palate and nasal cleansers on hand for the tastings? At candle shops, they'll often have a small thing of espresso beans to sniff to shock your nose out of the scent of prior candles, and with multi-course meals you often have like small pieces of bread and water to "clean" your tongue for the next portion of the meal. Have you considered things like this during your tastings to try and focus in a bit closer (not much you can do about the alcohol though unless you go full on spit it out like some sommeliers do)
I can put an 8% alcohol tolerance yeast in my mead and it will ferment to 14% if there is enough honey. I can't get a sweet mead without pasteurizing. Even after sorbate and campden tablets they begin fermenting again. Anyone got any idea why my yeast won't die? Happens with every yeast I have tried.
Well I found if you pasteurize legally its no longer mead. Apparently they test for the pollens and such for legal to sell mead. I got bottle rockets pasteurizing. The powders have worked for me. It could be your under using amount. I know some of my batches get real happy with leese and usually this means a bigger party. When it has worked it was 3 racks.
Try large-ish pitch rate (to reach the finish line) and no nutrient, even the slightest pinch of nutrient will turbo charge them. You want the yeast to be malleable enough to control. (I know from experience)
My experience with beer yeast will easily go to 12% or over. Shooting for lower abv I make sure my OG will only reach said abv. Them give it time. Take gravity readings and when it his 1.000 or lower give it a couple days then stabilize. Wait a day or two then back sweeting.
