Seeing Louis climb statically reminds me of how INCREDIBLY STRONG he is. It makes me even more impressed by how economical and efficient his technique it. Absolute master
We have the same at my local branch of the Depot. I even once witnessed one guy randomly just scraping his foot against the wall, right next to the sign...
It's because the sign is quite low down and there's usually a comp climb next to the sign, but in such a way that the climber's backs are facing the sign, so climbers can't really see the sign next to it when climbing
As far as specifying what static climbing means, I'd say something like: Climbing where your body (read everything between your hips and shoulders), only moves while all contact points (read hands and feet) are secure on the wall, meaning you have to shift your body to where you can reach the next hold, and only then, while suspending your body in this position, do you release the hold and reach for the next. Obviously the contact points you use vary, you lose a foot while flagging, you might use a knee as an additional contact point, but in general the rule is that at any particular moment only one thing is moving, either a hand or foot, or your body.
I usually try to all my climbs in a variety of ways. First what feels natural, then I try to optimize every move, then statically and finally various eliminates. Doing this can turn a single send into ten different climbs and a lot more learning in the process.
You were so strict with it haha, i dont think anyone actually climbs like that 😅 but i guess it wouldnt have been much of a challenge otherwise. very nice how well the coordination route worked out in the end, looked pretty smooth
I honestly would have liked to see _how_ static Louis can climb the blue one. Like, would he be able to do it with just a little hop? or a single step, without needing the heel hook? Try to minimize the dynamic moves, while still being able to do it.
@@cloudialeonhart7873 you dont use any momentum at all? sounds like you're making it unnecessarily hard for yourself ;) no need to dyno everything, but a little bit of momentum can help wonders
I’m a fairly static climber and like you were thinking, it was a really helpful video! I’m slowly learning dynamic climbing and for me, this video tells me I’m going in the right direction, and should even go farther! Thanks :)
cool content:) imo this video is great for getting people to think about the meanings of the terms static, dynamic, momentum... i guess a lot of us imagine crazy jumps etc when thinking of being dynamic when actually it is so much more and can be quite subtle, hence why when climbing entirely statically as was shown here by louis, especially overhanging climbs can become very physically intense (and time consuming, little efficient..). usually as we climb it isn't as black or white and even if we think of ourselves as static climbers, creating at least some momentum with our legs and hips can help on a lot of moves. I guess what would interest me would be to challenge louis to more anti style boulder problems which possibly involve the need of more careful, static climbing, but without a total ban on the use of any momentum (which, unless as a robot exercise to work on body positioning/strength, seems like a forced/unrealistic way of climbing to me) :)
Amazing Video, really great to see Louis throwing a bunch of techniques at boulders. But, for boulder number 3 I would have liked to see him try to put his left foot at the starting handhold and lead with his right arm to the lower volume :)
Hey Louis - not sure if you see all the messages but I have a question for you (and apologies if you’ve already touched on this in a previous video). I’m a fairly intermediate climber, been at it for well over a decade, but I still feel like a big hurdle I have on certain projects is overcoming fear of falling. I feel like many beginners have this fear and are coached to practice falling and that certainly helps but I haven’t heard it discussed much at a higher level. Just to be clear, I’m not afraid of heights or paralyzed on the wall at all, but I do feel like there are certain problems where I’ve felt less confident making moves because of some fear in the back of my head and I know that it is limiting my ability. I (rather selfishly) thought this would make an interesting video topic. Anyway, love your videos and find them incredibly inspiring! Love from Rhode Island
I believe Hannah Morris has some videos on this. Her videos are also very good to watch because she also struggles with fear often. It's inspirational to see her overcome this AND it feels very relatable because she's more like an 'average' climber, unlike most other climbing channels.
Yep! These videos were filmed on the same day, a mix of the mic being too close to Louis’ mic and some settings being off. This will be the last video like this!
I knows this was just a bit of fun but I feel like it isn’t necessarily fair. Can’t you climb statically from strong positions without climbing slowly? Maybe movements don’t have to be slow but you aren’t dead pointing or cutting feet or dynoing but that doesn’t mean every pull and shift needs to be slow right?
They just went all the way with no dynamic movement and I do think that is fair. It shows how often you do use momentum normally without really thinking about it. Like, on that impossible slab he could have easily gotten his foot in a better position using momentum, but completely statically that isn't possible. Its good to make people think a bit more about movement imo.
I think Louis' static style is inefficiently slow. I also think it doesn't suit him, because he didn't have the benefit of as much flexibility. His static climbing looks more like caricature of static climbing. Maybe he's doing it for comedy? There's a floor to static climbing. Maybe he should do a coaching session with Be? She would say he's being a Try Hard Turtle. 🐢
Climbing statically the comp style dynamic boulder which is supposed you to be dynamic is, I'd say, a bit misconceptual of why the needs of static physical abilities in some specific body position and situation which you can't help with dynamic physical abilities. Good challenge nonetheless.
Are you more inclined towards bouldering or routes? Indoors or outdoors? How would you describe your climbing style? How long have you been training? What shoes are you using ATM? I’m 100% not Louis, but I think this information might help him come up with a recommendation if he replies to your comment :) If it helps at all, I’m kind of at a low-intermediate level and have been using the Katana VCS for some months now. Mainly for bouldering indoors but I wanted a pair of shoes that would be useable all-around. I chose the Katanas mainly because of the support they provide while edging, which was my main issue as I’m still developing proper foot technique, and they absolutely shine at it. Heel and toe hooking is lacking on them, though. Very durable shoes due to the harder rubber compound on the male version, and I don’t feel like they necessarily perform bad on smears in spite of that. They are a bit more aggressive and asymmetrical than beginner shoes, but not too much, so I think it’s a good middle ground in that regard. But keep in mind that they are VERY narrow at the front (I personally like the snug fit but if your experience may vary).
Most basic beginners/intermediate shoe you can get are sportiva tarantula. Super simple, but can carry you a long way. Haven't been able to use most of these shoes because I have clown feet, but as victor mentioned, katanas are recognised as one of the best intermediate all rounders. Fairly stiff so good support, but still capable on overhangs. Sportiva Solutions or scarpa instincts vs (or vsr) would be a slightly higher end all rounders. Ie, less foot support, softer shoe but more capable on overhangs and more technical climbs. Another option (that I technically havent tried, but it's design is based on a shoe I used to own and absolutely loved) is the unparallel regulus. More downturned than the katanas, but more support than the solutions. But at the end of the day its best to go and try them on somewhere and see what suits your foot. Downsize enough that it takes a lil bit of effort to pull them on, but not so much that your afraid yould break the loops you used to pull them on. And all shoes mentioned are equally competent indoors and out.
🗽 Only static, which is a heavy punishment for the Momentum Louis. 😜 It looks a bit funny, because the real life static climbers move their hands much more quickly and use nearly no momentum. Bur Louis cannot do this, because it is for him so unnatural. .
Sorry, but you can't be Captain Static, the name's already taken - one of my buddies that I used to climb with at The Hangar christened me Captain Static, and it stuck. My motto is "dynos = bullshit"... 😂
I've always noticed there's something so noticeably awkward with louis's climbing compared to other climbers at his level. It almost seems too 'rigid'. maybe just me?
