King J. Nice video; however, I suggest that your viewers buy a thermometer and soup the film at 68° F. All the baths should be at this temp. A way to do that is to put the vessels containing the baths in a small tub (i.e. a dish washing tub) of water that is 68°F. This will prevent reticulation and standardize bath times. Also if you use a changing bag don't forget to put in the tank and its lid. Nothing worse than that. Finally, before you use your fingers to swipe the film make sure there is no grit on your fingers and dip them in Photo Flo solution, too. Oh, and if you hang your film in the bthrm, turn on the hot water in the shower a minute or two before you hang the film. This will put steam into the air and capture some if not all of the dust from floating around and settling on your film.
So happy you’re spreading this film knowledge bro, i feel like sometimes this stuff can be inaccessible to young photographers trying to get into it. Don’t forget to HypoCheck that fixer every once and a while. Even the indicator fixers sometimes go bad before the color actually changes.
Couple of comments on this video if being used as a learning tool. No matter how good your technique, it is practically impossible to get an even tone development where development time is less than 5 minutes. Short development times also make it difficult to get repeatable results. You may not see the effect unless you have larger image areas of even tone, such as blue sky, but it's a real burn when you do. Washing: Flushing tap water into the top of a tank may or may not effectively flush the water over the surface of the film coiled up on the submerged reel. Often, the fresh water just runs off the surface of the tank and yields little effective film washing. Finally, wash temperature. Washing under a tap still requires some attention to water temperature. The efficiency of film washing is reduced as the wash water gets colder. The wash time requirement stated by film and chemistry makers assumes the wash water to be at least 68 deg F. Once wash water get below 60 deg F, the ability of the water to flush fixer out of the film emulsion is greatly reduced.
I've done well with 7 minutes on developer. @randallstewart175 so I do have a question: do you invert or stir with your developer? I've heard arguments for both and just am "polling the audience"
I used to leave a tab out of the canister so i can load another roll in. I would buy 100 foot rolls of film and reload the canisters. Really good video. There was always something about developing film i enjoyed. The excitement of seeing the images for the first time. That's the magic thats missing with digital
HC110 Dilution B is better ... way better actually. 2.5 minutes is way too fast for solid results. Also water as a stop is 100% fine my school darkroom did it that way and I've been doing it that way ever since and it works and from an archival perspective the negatives are holding up fine. Also you never said a word about the temps of your chemistry which are important to your development time. Actually it is really important. Black and white film can be developed in a wide range of temps but you have to adjust the dev time to match the temp I don't even see a thermometer in your kit. You left a lot of important steps out here man!
Great video, I have been developing my own black and white for about a year now and must say that a film leader retrieval tool is a highly recommended tool. I will pick out the film leaders, cut them and get the film started on the reel before it even goes in the dark bag. Saves a lot of time and effort also it saves the cannisters which I then use for bulk rolling film. Hopefully more people will be encouraged to try developing at home after seeing your video, it's so easy and a lot of fun. I plan to start home developing colour in the new year.
If you find long scratches in your film, then there might be grit/grime on the canister's felt. That is the only risk I see with your technique. It is a good idea. Just be aware that this will be the 3rd time the film passes between the felt opening of the canister. If you have fairly clean habits, the felt will probably be clean.
I’ve been using HC-110 (E) for years. 5ml for 240ml for steel reels. 9 mins, agitate 10 sec/minute. Film development is basically the same as old world alchemy, everyone has a variation to the process. I’m not a fan of quick, under 6 minute development. 9-10 minutes feels right cause I learned on D-76. Photographers have been yelling at each other over agitation schedules and techniques since forever. Ultimately, just do what ever you find repeatable and consistent. I will say for HP5+ at the wash step just pour water back and forth from the tank, pouring out the water when it’s significantly discolored. The agitation helps here a lot, and it’s the only way I saw to remove that pink/purple from the negative.
film picker also a live safer for me because i can pick out the film lead outside the darkroom or changing bag and cut it before i load it into development tank in changing bag. i can use that undeveloped tip of film to test my developer and fixer before i start the developing process. it can be done under the normal light. first thing just take a little sample of the developer and fixer, put it in different little tray and put that undeveloped film tip into each tray, shake it little bit like developing a print. if the developer working well the film will change to black and if the fixer working well the film will become transparent. if everything going well i can start the developing process without worrying about the power of my chemicals
This video reminded me how I used to develop films in culture center, where I learned b&w photography. And now I wanna do comeback to film photography after nearly a decade. You really inspired me to try once more films and maybe later developing them
4 года назад
This process makes you give even more value to each shot.
i came here cause i haven't developed film in a while and needed a little reminder. this video is perfect except for that one thing i remember well and its that you should NOT throw these chemicals down the drain (as you did with the developer)! you should keep all your wasted chemicals in a separate tank and bring them to your local photo store as they should have the equipment to safely dispose of these.
Great video! I put my film stuff away some 15 years ago and recently got the "itch", so here I am getting my head back I to the game. Thanks for this! :) A suggestion for you when making your solutions. Add your concentrations to your water as opposed to the other way. I've added too much water to mine. Ugh. For those that mix powder with water, don't go part way. Mix the gallon and use dark bottles. Never put used solutions back into the same gallon jug. Put it into a second jug so you don't contaminate fresh(er) solution with old. I used to use labels and date and mark the number of uses. Also, use dedicated funnels for each solution. They're cheap!
Been watching a whole bunch of photo developing videos as I am getting back into doing film (I've developed film before, albeit almost 20 years ago back in year 9). Mostly just to reassure myself that as long as I follow the directions, I probably wont mess it up.
What a wonderful presentation! I hope you make a part 2 video presentation showing the next phase of going from the raw negatives to creating a print to be framed.
I use Ilford chemicals and have no issue with them. Stop, Fix, Permawash/Hypoclear, and Photo-Flo doesn't really matter with brands. Developer DOES matter. Different developers have different characteristics, and even with the same developer, the dilution can influence the outcome. Most famously, Rodinal can be diluted to 1/25-1/100, the weaker the dilution the finer the grain, but developing time also increases.
Sometimes and if you're not precise with dilution and temperatures, prolonged time in the the stop bath can produce pin holes in your emulsion. Better to make sure the stop is fresh enough and use hypo-check to determine the integrity of the fixer. Then you can use standard times. And how come no one has mentioned using hypo clearing agent to remove unwanted hypo from the film? Cuts wash time, too.
Great video! One word of advice, though it doesn't apply to you: if you're wearing a FitBit or something similar, take it off. On mine, the display lights up occasionally, as does the green laser on the back. I could see that fogging your film inside the bag.
If you live in an area with hard water, it's also useful to add Washaid (or similar) in the development process after the fixer, in stead of just rinsing it in water. Here in Norway, the tap water is fine. But I lived in Denmark for a while, and the water there caused major streaks on my negs if I didn't use the Ilford Washaid. Kodak has a similar product called Hypo Clearing Agent.
Hard water is not likely to have much effect on the efficiency of film washing. In fact, the earliest "washing aid" is just sodium sulfite, a salt solution. However, hard water contains dissolved calcium, which can leave streaks on the film as it dries. The remedy: After normal washing, make a final step of distilled water and Photoflo or Ilford equivalent, mixed to a dilution about half the Kodak recommended concentration, and soak your film for a minute or two with some agitation. Then, pull the film and hang to dry without wiping or squeegee. Guaranteed no spots or streaks.
Dude, excellent video. Hands down. This reminds me of a rubix cube. When you think " I will never be able to figure this out... its too complicated" and you invest your time learning it, someone out there will give you the wisdom in a simple process to succeed. Awesome video hands down and this is making me a little itchy to get my AX-3 out and try my hand at classical shooting.
I’ve been waiting for an in-depth video like this for a long time. I put some equipment on my Xmas list and I’m hoping I get some. Would love to start developing film.
Love the vids. Couple of suggestions: 1. Photographers' Formulary TF-4 Fixer. This stuff doesn't require a stop bath or a wash aid. A $15 bottle will get you 80 rolls' worth. Works on prints, as well. B&H has it. 2. Instead of using all that water for the wash, try the Ilford Method. Same amount of time, but far less water used. And what about dust? I get dust. Do you get dust? Even with Photoflo and distilled water--dust, dust, dust. I even run the shower on hot for a few minutes to pull it all out of the bathroom. Still . . . dust. I gotta build a drying cabinet. 3. Stop bath vs. water. I have read tons of threads on this, and the consensus (on APUG/Photrio, that is, which is what I trust most) is water is best, filmwise. (Prints, different story.)
i cant get rid of dust, thats my enemy, but few specs here and there, doesnt bother me anymore. Film isnt meant to be perfect and spotless like digital, so its ok.
HC110 is great and you can do a serious ASA booster using HC110 Developer Replenisher. These days I use Diaphine so that I don't have to worry about time and temperature with any B&W film. The scan the film on an Epson V600 Photo.
Try pulling your film to 320 and developing dilution 1+47 for 7:30 mins. Exposing for the shadows developing for the highlights gives you a really nice curve, shadow detail, highlight detail a really even negative excellent for darkroom prints! Now with this craziness kodak is doing with these "new formulas" with hc-110 and d76 it's like starting over again. The new hc-110 is a lot stronger than this one you have, same as the d76. I hate them, but im getting there. (Trial n error)
Thank you so much!! I’ve really wanted to develop my own film just haven’t had the opportunity to get everything together for it. This video will really help for when I gather everything together!
I just did my first roll. LOL. in my bathroom. I think its funny to tell people that. Oftentimes when you tell someone you're a photographer, they'll say "yeah, when I was younger I use to do that and use the darkroom at school." Then I respond: I develop my film in my bathroom. the looks are pretty funny.
Dude thanks for making this video! I'm currently using some Cinestill df96 to develop my B&W. I got it just to dip my toes into developing at home. But I want to move to a proper developer and fixer now. This video was perfect.
Wow, this is cool! I always enjoy different development techniques and your video was really fun to watch! Have you tried developing with coffee, I love the results of that too!
I’v used a stop bath but most of time I just use a water stop. Never had any problems with just water. Different developers give you different results. More or less contrast. Finer grain etc. use the developer for a desired result.
Amazing video! Love how you really put your time and effort to create the best images! Keep it up! Also you should check out this camera called Kodak M35. It's getting quite popular nowadays
I use PhotoFlo wetting agent always as well. I find the working solution will develop floating stringy particles over time, so I always make a fresh batch with distilled water when developing film. (and always with a clean container that has no dust in it) When done for the day, I toss the solution.
satlaone Your right👍 They do and by time the results of the developments change. The chemicals are oxidized every time you pour the liquid out of and into the bottle Period
Awesome video, just started shooting film and your Chanel its been really helpful and easy to understand. BTW how do you scan? Do you a video for that as well? Thanks for this video
Depends on the quality you want, flatbed scanners are the easiest and least expensive but drum scanners, or dslr scanning etc are options depending on how much time and money you have and the quality you want.
Hi nice teaching of producing film development. Question how does it cost for the whole development kit including the chemicals..? What's the cost of saving compared to taking it to developers.. thanks keep doing what you're doing..
Great videos! I have a question it might sound stupid but what if I have some night vision goggles could I use those to load the film in the dark or do you think the infrared light will affect the outcome of the development?
fantastic job with filming and explanation. A great way for people to comfortably dip their toes in the water of bw developing at home. Your handling of the tank with agitation is one of the best I've seen on RU-vid. Looks a perfect balance between gentle and aggressive. Just Right!
Quick tip - after photo-flo, do not touch the film! Don't squeegee it, don't finger/thumb-dry it. Seriously...photo-flo is designed to magically drip off the film without any streak marks whatsoever. Anytime you touch the film, you are possibly introducing streaks and dusts that will come up on your scans (or prints)
One thing I noticed on your video you didn’t mention the temperature of the water. Other than that the video is really good. I’ve been developing color & b&w film for many years.
So I'm a little late to comment but I hope I still get a reply. First off man I love your videos your the number RU-vidr to get me really into film. Now me and my fiance go on frequent trips to antique shops and good wills hunting for some killer deals. Now I've never developed my own b&w film and am really nervous. Is it easier to just do a roll and step out or get someone to show you?
Thanks. I’m new to film and this was very helpful. Question pls. I’m using HC110 to develop Delta 400 How do I find my instructions. Do you recommend any apps? Joey from San Mateo
Man, I’ve been hanging my film by taping it on the metal bar in the tub and taping the bottom with anything that I can find (chapstick coins batteries). After seeing this, now I’ll be using the ghetto pants hanger method lol.
@@zouteharing007 that's awesome! have you light sealed it yet? if not take a white piece of normal printer paper and take it into the darkroom and turn off the lights, if you can see the paper you are gonna need to reseal it
@@maxshootsfilm306 nothing sealed yet. It really a free time project. It takes some time. And thanx for the tip to walk around the room with a paper and checking for lightleaks
I have some questions about your experience with drying film, and dust. I use photoflo and also hang mine in the shower. How long do you dry your film for, and how do you control dust? Do you have any methods for removing embedded dust after your film has dried?
Slyest Fox Perhaps keeping all your equipment such as tanks clean, using purified/distilled water. Using a small blower to remove dust from the film negatives prior to scanning, always use lint free gloves to handle film, and place them in sleeves thereafter each use. It’s not rocket science, unless you have a specific issue?
If you hang your film in your bthrm you will always have this concern. However, you can minimize this problem by turning on hot water in the shower for a minute or two before you Photo Flo and hang your film. The steam should help capture the dust and remove it from the air. Also, once you've hung and swiped your film leave the room, close the door, and don't go back into the room until the film has dried.
Great presentation for those starting out (all your presentations are great by the way) When I started out back in the 1970,s (minolta Hi Matic 7) and was in a hurry, I would dry film by dipping it it mentholated spirit and putting a match to it! Please don’t try this. It’s a foolish thing to do these days,
Hou do it withour a respirator and without a vent (directed to outdoors). Do you know that these types of chemicals (photo chemicals of all types D76, C41, ECN2) is badly toxic?
Shane Caut this is a great question! Try to dispose of them properly. If you want, call your local household hazardous waste collection center. See what they think. I never pour my color chemicals down the drain but b&w I have a few times.
Thinking about home developing myself , I’ve read water temperature is important, I didn’t see you testing temperature, do I have this wrong or is it in a different method ?
I really want to get into shooting film but what’s the first camera I should get? I live in the uk so I don’t know of any labs for developing photos, help!
