I absolutely love this. There’s something about driving these boats. There’s really nothing to prove. Just drive your boat and do the best you can and you’ll have a great time.
Here in rural Illinois where most of the roads are 4 lane (plus) and straight for miles and miles, we did not feel that we had to put the 305s on the front. I wanted to let you know that on our 2019 Charger Scat Pack (not lowered-no other mods) we used the 9-1/2 inch Koenig wheels on the front with 275s and 11 in Koenig wheels with 305s in the back. Since this is a daily driver I put Michelin Pilot all season tires on it. The fit was perfect with absolutely no rubbing and no spacer or bolt extenders needed. We are thrilled with the look and the handling was much better than with the original 245s. Thanks for all of your posts . We enjoy the channel.
Nice! I'm glad it all worked out and I greatly appreciate you taking the time to share your Charger Scat Pack wheel/tire experience. Sounds like some of those roads are perfect for the 6.4L to stretch its legs! Thanks for watching!
I just set up my 2019 R/T Challenger with 20x8 Hellcat replica wheels and 275/45/20 Nitto on the front and 20/10.5/20 with Nitto 305/35/20 on the rear with no issues and it looks BAD ASS ! Tires and wheels all purchased at Discount Tire.
You didn’t need any spacers with that set up? In have a 2016 Dodge Charger R/T n was tryna do. That same set up but wit front 20x9.5..275/40/20 and 20x10.5 305/35/20 rear. Will that work for me with no spacers?
Hello Justin I did follow the set up design that was suggested. I have a 2021 Dodge Challenger R/T . I did the square set up 305s 20 x 11 +21 w Mickey Thompson 305/35 R20 (front has dorman extend wheel studs) With one caveat. The front tires hit the steering knuckle with a 12mm spacer. I did some measuring replaced the 12mm spacer with a 18mm. The fitment is perfect..it works!! I agree with you what a great bitch’n setup!! thank you for your video..
Thanks for reporting back! Hope you’re enjoying the set up! I wonder if the Mickey Thompson 305’s tread pattern is a touch wider than my Conti’s were. Glad the 18mm worked out!
It blows my mind that such a big car has such narrow wheels. Especially the Scat Pack. My 1996 Camaro SS came with 275/40-17 square. It now has 315/35-17 in the rear. It’s a much smaller car, and it’s almost 30 years old. Dodge dropped the ball on this My wife had leased a V6 challenger ($500 a month!) before we meet. I told her to turn that thing in. She had wanted the V8 from the beginning anyway. Her previous husband clearly wasn’t a car enthusiast. Anyway, she wants another one so we’re looking for a Scat Pack with a 6 speed tranny. I was shocked to see that they have the same skinny ass 245s the her V6 had. So those cars (even the V6 cars) should have 275s. They are just too big of a vehicle to have such a small contact patch. And it just looks stupid…
UR ON THE RIGHT TRACK I PUT 305 40/20 AND THEY FIT PERFECTLY FINE ON MY SCATPACK 2022 NON WIDEBODY THE ONLY DIFFERENCE IS THAT THEY WILL RUB JUST A LITTLE BIT ON THE FENDER IF U turn the steering wheel all the way to the left they will rub a little bit but what are the chances of that rare to none
Question... 1 Did you add the same spacers to the rear? 2 Does this work for R/Ts as well? Are the hubs of the Scats and R/Ts the same? I have a 2016 R/T+
Hey thanks for the in depth info. I think the lil devil fender flares would be perfect for this set up but they probably cost as much as the set up itself lol. Keep up the content 👍
I have a Dodge Challenger SRT392 if I make it widebody would I still have to go the extra mile you did because I want 305 all around I cannot have nothing lower then 305 on a widebody.
I plan to put 275s on 9.5 rims in the front with the 305s in back. Do you think I will need spacer and wheel bolt extenders. Also the wheel bolt extender link takes me to product for Fords; do you have another link for my charger?
Thanks for letting me know about the link issue -- looks like Amazon changed the product link. I can't find a new one at this time, but will update once I do. A ~73mm stud is ideal IIRC. Good news is you won't need the spacers or extended studs for the 9.5" wheels in the front.
Hey man, first off, love the setup. I know you may not see or respond to this, but I was just curious if you think I’d be able to fit 305/35ZR20’s on my 20x11’s with a 2” spacer on the rear. I’m not sure of the offset unfortunately, but I’m still trying to learn all this stuff. I just put a demon widebody kit on my scat and I’m really wanting to pop those puppies out
@@justintodriving all good brother. I appreciate the response anyway. The demon kit just attaches fender flares to the already existing wheel well with self-tapping screws.
I track my charger scat! And I was intrigued about running a 20 x 11 square set up! Did you run the spacers in the rear as well, just for it being the same track width!? And that’s too funny my license plate says track yacht🤣🤙
Love your plate!!! And just saw your comment on my other Ampliform video. The rears did not need spacers, but the fronts did to clear the strut on the inside. 20x11 does clear in the front with a 305, but I had mine lowered and with about -2 degree of camber. I rolled the front fenders as well so they didn’t rub.
@@justintodriving Thank you so much! And that is great! My only concern do you think any tire rub would happen from tire deflection on hard cornering, rubbing on the knuckle?! I’m running -2 up front as well!! Thank you for replying! I really appreciate it:)
I unfortunately didn’t track with this set up before I sold the car, but I did quite a bit of canyon/mountain driving and didn’t run into any rubbing on the knuckle. The 12mm front spacer gave the inner wheel barrel just enough room (I didn’t measure, but maybe 3 or 5mm?) so it didn’t rub. Do you have an IG? Would love to follow your track yacht build 😎
@@justintodriving That is awesome news! I already looked into the wheels but they’re back ordered right now so maybe next year when I need new tires I’ll purchase a set! And sounds good brother I haven’t been on Instagram in a while though, but my IG is Tayallen54
On those wheels at stock ride height do you think there is any trimming or rubbing issues for the rear only? I just picked up my 2017 Scat Pack and am moving it over to PS4S tires ASAP, just trying to decide if it's worth it to get the Konigs and if so, how much width I can get away with. I'm leaning toward the 9.5 wheels in front with either 275 or 295s. Thanks!
Congrats on the purchase! You should not rub in the rear at stock ride height. It's hard for me to say about having to trim part of the inner fender liner at stock ride height, though. If you do have to trim, it'll be minimal and can be done with scissors. For the front, you should have no issue with the 9.5 and 275's at stock ride height.
@@justintodriving Thanks! Also in the Bay Area so I'll reach out to Bay Area Motorsports for mounting and balancing since they seem to do good work (and going to BR in Los Gatos seems like overkill for this).
Gotta agree with you. Does look “F-ing Badass”. Gonna attempt to go for a similar look on my 2018 Scat Pack Charger. Any one have experience with this?
I might have some photos of the clearance/fitment in the depths of my IG page, @justintodriving. The front fender roll and rear fender lining trim is minimal, but sadly I did not take any photos.
sick update bro , i have a question about the tries , i have the front once 285 with out a spacer and it hits somewhere if im turning however the rear once i have 295 and heres the wired part , because while im turning i could hear a wired noises coming from the back and yes there is a space but im just confused, so either my diff is fuckt or the rear axle terns a little , so what do u think ?
Lots of grip in the canyons, especially over stock. And no wobbling for me -- I made sure to get an alignment and used high quality wheel weights when mounting/balancing the tires.
@@justintodriving I want to have widebody kit on my stock R/T 5.7 so I need the 11' rims. I am sure I will need spacers as you mentioned, but do I need to do any cutting to the bolts on the hub? and one last question please: if I run high quality spacers, can I trust them? Thank you so much
@@ateeqs9586 I've never heard of or cut bolts on the hub before...so not sure about that for fitting with fenders. If anything you might want longer wheel studs depending on your spacers. And sure I would trust a hub centric brand name spacer.
Duffle Bag not sure since I only ever ran it lowered. When lowered, it gives it -2 degrees camber in the front which helps with the handling and tuck the front tire ever so slightly inside the fender.
Dude 4664 unfortunately did not get it to the track before selling the car in April. I still have all my parts though in case I get another in the future 😁
@@tarquanpearman3994 If I remember correctly, it was right around $3,000 all in. You can likely shop around and find some of the parts cheaper or used now that they've been out for awhile.
Wally World thanks man, really appreciate that 🙏 I’m a fan of the WB, but mainly because of the extra room for more rubber. I would love to get a WB, but it didn’t fit my budget for this build.
Tro Adjoyan I am! I sold my Challenger in April and wish I could’ve enjoyed it more in the canyons and track before I got rid of it. What are your plans for your RT?
justintodriving plans? Well the 305’s were really going to be the last step. Ive been on full suspension for a few years now. Kw v2 coils, subfram stiffeners, sway bars, chassis bracing front and rear, adjustable arms and rear camber, tension struts, and poly bushing just about everywhere else. I still find myself understeering (not much however) near the limit. I can keep up with some fast paced cars up there
@@TrippyTro understeer is really a bitch maybe try stiffer rear bar and softer front so your rear end kicks out more to help it rotate since challengers never have problems with oversteer and put more camber up front
Ok here's what I'm trying to do...First off.... 1. '11 Challenger SRT8 6.4 2. Will be putting fender flares. 3. I hate the stock wheels. 4. Looking for 18x10 Front and 18x12/13 Rear. 5. Why 18's? I'm not into larger rims on sports cars. I personally think 18s are perfect. 6. I'm upgrading my rear drivetrain also. So what tire size and rim offsets can I go with...without using a spacer of any kind.?
@@justintodriving fender flares similar to the hellcats for reference purposes. Also, finding rims with 5x115 is fucking difficult as hell. I've read in various forums that people are using the 5x4.5(114.3) and using a hubcentric ring. I figure that ".7mm" is close to the with of a typical staple from Swingline. Are those guys nuts or on to something since the difference is so small? They all seemed happy with it and it opens up the potential for far more rim selection possibilities......
Im hella late but, I am adding after market fender flares and want to run 275/45/20 in the front and 305/35/20 in the rear. Anybody know if this will work on a stock challenger?
Glad you found it helpful. 275 on a 20x11 would work, but spacers might be required for clearance on inner side front and rear. The rear might need (or not need all together) a 3-5mm spacer, and the front might need a 10mm spacer.
Hey brother, I just became a new sub, they make a replaca of the Hellcat rims that are cheap money wise, and they will hold 305's no problem, the rims are like a 105$ a rim, just be a thought, check out Kevin Van Morris you tube channel, peace brother
I’ll have you know that after stumbling across a picture of your car on Google Images, I have now watched all of your videos and made the plunge. I have everything you listed on the way! One difference - I went with 305/30 Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar 3R tires. We’ll see how the shorter sidewalk affects the fit! I went with the shorter sidewall so that the upcoming BC coilovers can get me nice and low. Going on a Vortech-supercharged 2010 Challenger SRT8 6M. How was the front wheel stud swap? Easy enough?
Thanks for watching! This set up is how the car should've come from the factory, in my opinion. You have an even sweeter tire package on the way -- the extra grip should be a dream along with the extra power. I haven't done the wheel stud swap yet since I haven't had good enough weather to take her to the track this year. I see the wheel stud swap as optional if you only use it for the street, but it certainly adds peace of mind for street/track with the extra thread. When I put the studs on, I'll likely have a friend at a nearby shop install them. If you're mechanically inclined you can probably knock it out yourself. That's over my head as far as working on the car, unfortunately. Someday I'll extend my knowledge past basic service 😄. Stoked for how your car is going to look!
Or you could keep it simple and put 305’s or 315’s in the back and 295’s in the front! You can clearly see that your still gonna hit the fender with the sidewall if you hit a bump
JUST SOME CANADIAN GUY there was no rubbing with this set up in the front nor the rear. The front fender was rolled and the camber in the front ensured the fender and sidewall never touched :) and 295’s in the front would have not met my criteria of being able to rotate tires front/rear.
The previous owner did that. Scat packs definitely can come with 245 in the year of 2015-2018 they started putting 275 all around like in 19 and up but you can still up with a scat pack with some dangerous 245s on a car with all of that power.
I used the car for tracking and wanted as much grip as possible, a more neutral feeling, and to be able to easily rotate tires. If you’re doing drag racing, you won’t want 305’s in front.
@@lonewolf_hemi8877 😄 I loved this set up while I had it. I sold the car a year ago and miss the torque! Plus it had the grip it deserved with this set up.
Robert Ehrler with this setup I didn’t time many 0-60 runs, but the fastest I timed was 4.1. I bet you could get it into the 3’s with a better launch than I was able to.
The owners manual that cover cell versions of the charge her initially listed the correct torque at 130 ft lb. However if you read about 1 Down is says that for the 6.4 model the correct work as 111 ft lb which is will be used. Just FYI
Hemi for Life I never ran that tire size in the front so hard to say what you’d need to change. What’s the wheel size? What’s the offset? Where’s it rubbing? What size spacer? Did you roll the front fenders?
You should should pick a smaller sidewall. For example 275/35/R20. You can go with an aggressive look & run 295/35 all around. All depends on with rims specs too tho
@@cudaman2formula874 Sorry, just seeing this! I still have some of the set up. Some parts have been sold by now. Handful of reasons involving life and driving preferences led me to sell the Scat Pack. I wanted to save more for a house and get back into something I could track easily (E36 M3).
I am running 315/40R18's on factory OEM 18x11 Demon wheels on the back of my 2021 Challenger 1320. They are a direct bolt on with no adaptors or spacers. No mods at all and plenty of clearance, however my car is bone stock and not lowered. Yes they stick out, but line up even with the Lil devil fender flares and look great. You can see them on my car at the drags on my channel, artillerybuff2000.
@@brandonUwanawich954 most serious racers are running 17x10 wheels with some sticky Mickey's, and with the correct offset and backspacing no spacers are needed. Yes, you will need the shorter sway bar links. Those 11's are going to stick out past the top of the fender at least an inch.
@@brandonUwanawich954 never seen them, but a proper set of 17x10's fit great, I'd run them if I didn't already have the Demon setup on my 1320. I am going to try to order a 2023 Regular body Redeye, and I'm for sure putting a pair of 17x10's on the back of it for the drag strip.