I have avoided embroidering hats for 6 years because of the issue of not being able to lower the design. I have done TWO hats today since finding your video and I am so excited!!! Thank you!
Although I used this technique for a while, I’ve changed it up a bit. I’ve been meaning to update the video, but until then I’ll try and explain what’s different. I’ve removed the brim holder so it’s completely out of the way. Once the cap is totally hooped , as per the video, I place the palm of my hand on the cap over the area where the design would go, holding the cap in place, and I press the bill forward, away from you, giving the bill some flexibility, so as it hits the machine the bill will give. This eliminates the need to tape the bill and has given me great results. Hopefully this all makes sense
I followed your advice and have gotten great results in lowering the design closer to the brim which is what my customer requested. Also the tape on the brim to hold it down away from the machine is great! Thank you for your video and help.
Although I used this technique for a while, I have changed it up a bit. I keep meaning to update the video, but until then I’ll share what im doing. I’ve removed the brim holder so it is no longer in the way. After I get the cap totally hooped, pressing down on the front of the cap (about where you would put the design) holding the cap in place, I press the cap brim forward a few times giving it some flexibility. This has worked far better for me than what I’ve demonstrated in the video. Hopefully this all makes sense
Although I used this technique for a while, I’ve changed it up a bit. I’ve been meaning to update the video, but until then I’ll try and explain what’s different. I’ve removed the brim holder so it’s completely out of the way. Once the cap is totally hooped , as per the video, I place the palm of my hand on the cap over the area where the design would go, holding the cap in place, and I press the bill forward, away from you, giving the bill some flexibility, so as it hits the machine the bill will give. This eliminates the need to tape the bill and has given me great results. Hopefully this all makes sense
Thank you SEW MUCH for this video. I get so many hat requests but they never sit right. I have been doing it the way the dealer showed me and it never came out right. Thanks again!
Although I used this technique for a while, I’ve changed it up a bit. I’ve been meaning to update the video, but until then I’ll try and explain what’s different. I’ve removed the brim holder so it’s completely out of the way. Once the cap is totally hooped , as per the video, I place the palm of my hand on the cap over the area where the design would go, holding the cap in place, and I press the bill forward, away from you, giving the bill some flexibility, so as it hits the machine the bill will give. This eliminates the need to tape the bill and has given me great results. Hopefully this all makes sense
Although I used this technique for a while, I’ve changed it up a bit. I’ve been meaning to update the video, but until then I’ll try and explain what’s different. I’ve removed the brim holder so it’s completely out of the way. Once the cap is totally hooped , as per the video, I place the palm of my hand on the cap over the area where the design would go, holding the cap in place, and I press the bill forward, away from you, giving the bill some flexibility, so as it hits the machine the bill will give. This eliminates the need to tape the bill and has given me great results. Hopefully this all makes sense
Although I used this technique for a while, I’ve changed it up a bit. I’ve been meaning to update the video, but until then I’ll try and explain what’s different. I’ve removed the brim holder so it’s completely out of the way. Once the cap is totally hooped , as per the video, I place the palm of my hand on the cap over the area where the design would go, holding the cap in place, and I press the bill forward, away from you, giving the bill some flexibility, so as it hits the machine the bill will give. This eliminates the need to tape the bill and has given me great results. Hopefully this all makes sense
Could you possibly go over how you place the metal band across the hat and how you keep it at centered? Would also love to see how it fits in your machine. I have had nothing but problems hooping hats on my machine with this hoop and I can’t seem to get it right!
I apologize for not reply to you message earlier, but I’m just now seeing it. Pls let me know if you still need the info. Although I used this technique for a while, I’ve changed it up a bit. I’ve been meaning to update the video, but until then I’ll try and explain what’s different. I’ve removed the brim holder so it’s completely out of the way. Once the cap is totally hooped , as per the video, I place the palm of my hand on the cap over the area where the design would go, holding the cap in place, and I press the bill forward, away from you, giving the bill some flexibility, so as it hits the machine the bill will give. This eliminates the need to tape the bill and has given me great results. Hopefully this all makes sense
Although I used this technique for a while, I’ve changed it up a bit. I’ve been meaning to update the video, but until then I’ll try and explain what’s different. I’ve removed the brim holder so it’s completely out of the way. Once the cap is totally hooped , as per the video, I place the palm of my hand on the cap over the area where the design would go, holding the cap in place, and I press the bill forward, away from you, giving the bill some flexibility, so as it hits the machine the bill will give. This eliminates the need to tape the bill and has given me great results. Hopefully this all makes sense
I'm sorry I didn't reply to your comment in a timely manner. Looking back through the video I see that I didn’t give thorough instructions on the hooping. But Yes, I typically use stabilizer on all the hats I embroidery. When I do an updated video I’ll be sure to include the full process. Thank you for viewing.
Although I used this technique for a while, I’ve changed it up a bit. I’ve been meaning to update the video, but until then I’ll try and explain what’s different. I’ve removed the brim holder so it’s completely out of the way. Once the cap is totally hooped , as per the video, I place the palm of my hand on the cap over the area where the design would go, holding the cap in place, and I press the bill forward, away from you, giving the bill some flexibility, so as it hits the machine the bill will give. This eliminates the need to tape the bill and has given me great results. Hopefully this all makes sense
Lisa, looking back through the video I see that I didn’t give thorough instructions on the hooping. But Yes I do clamp the hat in the back on both sides. In the video starting about 4:00 I explain how I hoop the hat to be able to embroidery closer to the brim. I make sure the sweatband is caught under the clamping frame on both sides and (4:41) I clamp the hat with binder clips on both sides. I do these steps on all the hats I hoop, not just for the lower designs. When I do an updated video I’ll be sure and zoom out a little so the whole process is better to see. Thank you for viewing.
Although I used this technique for a while, I’ve changed it up a bit. I’ve been meaning to update the video, but until then I’ll try and explain what’s different. I’ve removed the brim holder so it’s completely out of the way. Once the cap is totally hooped , as per the video, I place the palm of my hand on the cap over the area where the design would go, holding the cap in place, and I press the bill forward, away from you, giving the bill some flexibility, so as it hits the machine the bill will give. This eliminates the need to tape the bill and has given me great results. Hopefully this all makes sense
When we hoop caps we tend to slide the sweatband under the alignment guide along with the backing. It allows us to get closer to the brim when stitching and keeps the hat flat. I have always done it this way without too much of an issue. The guide also touches the underside of the brim telling me where to stop and allowing me to sew closer to the brim & view the mark when strapping the cap down. I thought this is how they were designed to be hooped? I uploaded a photo for reference. www.dropbox.com/s/6amj2i4ngl5t6o1/IMG_1295.jpg?dl=0 So your saying to put the sweatband over the alignment guide instead and adjust the retaining strap to smash the bill into the alignment guide to keep if from moving? Have you tried putting the sweatband under the center mark alignment guide on the cap frame? IS this a better mouse-trap? We use a 6 head 12 needle Happy machine so maybe it varies from machine to machine.
