I made critical mistakes with my dog that led to his reactivity - and chances are, you’re making them too. Watch this now to avoid years of frustration! Download your FREE YCA Dog Reactivity Guide here: mailchi.mp/yor...
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I take a beautiful German shepherd out once a week from a rescue centre, he is dog reactive and has to wear a muzzle, he’s such a lovely clever and alert dog otherwise and so deserves a home. Is there anything I can do in the limited time I have with him to help him with his nerves and reactivity. I normally book him a secure pen as he hates wearing the muzzle and I want him to enjoy time out but I would love for him to find a home and I don’t think he will if he is reactive. He’s only about 12-18 months old.
Really appreciate your channel, you get down to the basics of a dog’s chemistry and their resultive behavior based solely from their mechanics. I’ve always leaned towards “working dogs”. 65 years old and my latest is a Dutch Shepherd, got him as a rescue, didn’t know the breed, talk about over the top “reactivity”. Living in a large city, I’ve made every mistake you mentioned and with the help from people like you, am slowly trying to dial back what I thought I knew. Hopefully the old cliché, “you can’t teach an old dog new tricks” doesn’t apply to my little over a year old, hope to be a great dog!!!
The biggest mistake with socialisation is thinking it means up close interaction with other people and dogs but it’s Also learning to ignore other people and dogs if that’s what you ask for. A puppy should ‘wait’ for EVERYTHING…once wait becomes a well established command it’s easy to get puppy to wait while others move around them without too much drama. Both ways of socialising are equally important. Ignoring is as much socialising as playing is. Training is just building blocks but it’s incredible to see how many puppies get set up to fail.
Picked all my 3 last dogs (all Dutchies) from confiscation as dangerous dogs with 6-7m and used always a leash inside the house and outside (living in a big city) for ca 3 weeks - only playtime inside was without leash I never made deals offering them a better choice, because there were no need: they had to take part of almost everything in my life and everything new i took time that they were able to explore by their own. Once explored the things were not interessting anymore...after max 3 weeks they were laying fine and relaxed on their place and they were used to crowded places, public traffic...outside i didn"t care about them, they just had to follow - and this is in a crazy, crowded big city so much more easy than i quiet places ...all my 3 Dutchies became amazing family dogs, with 3 kids, husband und grandma always welcoming friends No food training ever, but a bite dummy for regulary training of necessary commands Never dog parks, because you never know what kind of dog owners are around there - but each day a good early morning walk in the city forrest for two hours... Dogs don't need other dogs, they need a job as a team member in a family....and some few dogs they like to make some good walks together, but walks, no smalltalk hanging around with a cup of coffee only and let the dogs without purpose
Just returned from the beach with my Kelpie and Amstaff. I was beyond furious with them. Despite having them on their leads and giving treats they targeted a dog walking with its owner. The one owner panicked a fell to the sand screaming. I could barely hold on to my dogs as combined they weigh more than me. I was so ashamed but this behaviour is escalating so there will be no more beach walks together. I appreciated your video and about to restart training from scratch.
I have a dobdrman. I started taking her everywhere with me the day I got her. She was 8 weeks. I worried about her getting sick but I was more worried about the short window if I had waited till 16 weeks. She is very confident today. I'm glad I did it that way. She experienced so much at a young age! Made her a confident dog
I have done exactly the same as described here and ended up with a reactive caucasian shepherd now 2 yrs old who won't listen and if on lead pulls like a freight train towards other dogs, over socialised her at 4 months as a puppy to avoid her becoming reactive, exact opposite result obtained, also is over stimulated by cats or any small fluffy object, sorry squirrel too slow, recall only when nothing better to chase, sniff or pee on.
It’s not the breed or the dog, but the human behind the dog. Human can rationalize and realize the mistakes made & correct it, if we just blame the dog nothing gets fixed. Lease pulling is a symptom of over excitement. Chasing other smaller animals is a symptom of prey-drive. So possibly you have high prey drive mixed with over-excitement, which is red-zone with no leverage. There are techniques to fix these without even hurting your dog but involves it changing your mindset.
@@Sepo-i9eit really is the Breed! Breeds bred to work, highly intelligent.. bred to herd. Retrieve, guide , sniff, and fighting dogs. Can’t be trained usually to do other jobs ! It’s obvious
I found a method that stopped pulling in a day. You put the leash on the INSIDE the house and go a couple steps towards the door and then stop. If your dog doesn't stop give them a correction, pull on the leash sideways, for a caucasian you gotta pull pretty hard and then release. Your dog will probably go like "WTF bro", so go a couple of steps and check if your dog is still with you or not. If he also stop when you stop go to the door and fling it open but don't go out. If your dog starts going out give them a correction again and turn around. Leave the door open. Repeat this until your dog stops when you stop. Then step out the door but only go a few steps then stop. Check if your dog stops. And so on and so on. I almost gave up on my dog because walking was a torture but now he is doing soooooo good. I basically do this couple of steps towards the door then stop and pop the leash if he doesn't stop EVERY TIME before going out. It takes less than 1 minute to check if he is in the right state of mind to go out for a walk. We literally tried everything else but nothing helped except this method. You just don't head out the door if he doesn't stop when you stop. Even during the walk I randomly stop and reset him before we reach critical points on our way (crazy barking dog behind a fence etc.) and it is essential that you don't let him barge out any doors or gates. He needs to be with you.
I can’t stop laughing listening to every point you make . . . . .all us right down the line! The only thing we got right was the house line . . . .no better puppy training tool out there. Dogs getting reactive at the door? Put them on a house line. They can’t behave better if they don’t understand what we want them to do. Thanks so much for sharing!
Sounds really intelligent but with my poodle I did most things wrong and now I have a dog that basically ignores me and is now 15 months old, and always find something he can destroy. Yesterday was a toilet plunger which WAS rubber with wooden handle. At least furniture is safe to date. So I'm going to try and Rehabilitate him using your tips. I really would like to have the idea that I may mean something to him and not just the treat guy and one that feeds him. Outside he pulls on the line for everything and I'm really pissed off that my left arm is at least 54 centimeters longer than my right. Everyone just try to placate me by saying he just has too much temperament and he will grow out of it. At the moment I don't think I will live long enough to witness it, but which I am not a believer. Pulling corrections I have tried for months, other collars, etc. and nothing works. To say I am totally frustrated is putting mildly. Thanks for listening! David Q.
Use a halti or a gentle leader it makes it easy to correct his pulling and you'll find it much easier to walk him if you use it right. And yes, dogs do mature at 15 months he's going through the fear phase - he will settle in a few years
Best advice ever! I raised my GSD on a houseline until he was 18 months old and showing he was becoming trustworthy (earning his freedom). He is 5 years old now and still has not destroyed anything in my home. He is the most amazing dog ever. Yes, I also made several mistakes when he was a puppy and wish I could go back and do it all differently but heck, he still turned out to be incredible.
Please stop using an extending lead when walking your dog on streets. This is not what they are intended for. Your pup can be a long way from you in an instant - trip someone up, or go out into the road. I have seen several near misses when walking my dog. People seeing your video will think this is OK to do because you are a "dog trainer".
4 month old puppy, have worked on training every day, and hitting some really frustrating points with preteen behaviour. Going to work with some of these, thanks for the tips
Like this a lot - you're 100% perfectly right - sadly the mistakes are still taught all over the internet, dog schools etc. This information you gave on your vid should be far more spread. I learned a lot from watching vids from Michael Ellis - he's a genius of dogtrainer. Do you know him?
Great explanation for first time cannine care givers. Over exposure can be very damaging Social period needs to be correctly managed. Yes it’s very easy to re direct to an alternative behaviour but that could also be rewarding the unwanted behaviour as you said. I done pretty much the same as you. Over exposing my rescue dog to many dogs I didn’t know then bad out comes out happen. However very disappointed and upset that you started this video saying you learnt all your mistakes through Zak George and Steve Mann. When I’ve read all his books and he thoroughly explains correct managed for social period. And Zak George has uploaded many webinars and videos of correct management. Both these people are a haven to dog owners and such a shame you your dog turned out reactive. It’s wasn’t their fault. You just found your way of training him through his adolescence phase.
I wish I had of seen this information 14 months ago, I’m nodding along with my shepherd mix laying at my feet. Upside, we’re not giving up just catching up.
Thank you for this very informative video. I got my 2nd lab at Christmas and I vowed to do things differently.. I have, but as we know every dog has a different personality. My pup is 11 months old and is more reactive to people approaching or passing them. If they have a dog she is fine. I have made some progress over this last week doing things slightly different ( as I’ve known the people approaching etc) But I’m guessing the same principle of “ me being the most interesting thing in that moment “ is key ? Where in Yorkshire are you based please. Ta
Thank you for this video, the content is so helpful and thinking about my previous dogs and how I did exactly that - carried them around. To my current reactive dog, it makes loads of sense. These videos are perfect for people with puppies or thinking about getting one. Also for moving forward with a dog already reactive. Thank you is not enough 🙏
Im getting a dog from the shelter next week so this is super timely for me. I mean it is not a puppy but Im pretty sure this advice works for dogs of any age
Great advice. I've made all those mistakes too in the past. With my most recent dog I've only allowed socialisation at group training sessions but even there you can meet reactive dogs. Part of reactivity is genetics of the dog too and some are very feisty. Some dogs will never became reactive how ever many mistake you make, where as some are more prone to go down that route.
The second you bring your dog home, even if its 5 weeks, you take control and let them know you're in control, You dont have to be mean, just firm, consistent, calm control, its all fun and games till its not. If you're going to get a dog, know and understand the breed, exercise and training are your best friends.
@@cured_bacon647 Lols. Sure. If your dog's a husky and you live in Alaska, or if you are training actual protection dogs, a harness is great. For everyday pet owners, the harness is simply useless hippie crap.
I use harnesses as clothes for my dogs but walk with with collar only, even though they weigh 12 pounds, with the harness they pull like crazy and don’t listen to leash corrections at all, with collar they are perfect little walkers
I can relate to all of this with my German Shepherd whose now about 44kg and 17 month old.Tried many trainers and paid hundreds of pounds in fees only to hear them all spout theoretical behaviour crap. Tried the house line but he just chewed it up. He's really reactive now especially when couriers or postie knocks on door. Even received a letter about aggressive dogs from Royal Mail. Just simply cant afford any more trainers.
Thankyou. You have given me the next step. I've a 20 month old, yes 20 - German Shephard He is great. Yet he was a ratbag last night, but then physically sick this morning - someone advised me that cheese was ok for him. I think not! He snapped quite strongly at me last night and was back to normal on his run by lunchtime, but ignoring me strongly. I am quite concerned about how he snapped at me last night and he takes food into the loungeroom.bOnce or twice it has been quite funny, but now he becomes "dominant' - You discussion gave me the next steps to handle him. Plus a "yoga mat " will now be placed where he is allowed to eat rather than my having to clean his leftover food off the rug. Right now he is enjoying balking with ALL the local dogs. He is at home and inside the fence, but his barking is getting excessive. I know he can't help being sick, but we have to develop a better way!
Here’s one for you…how do you keep them out of the cat litter box! Yuck. My cat goes at different times so I don’t always find out until after the dog snacks on it.
I didn't have problems with the food, but as soon as I tried to use it to teach him sit, he became territorial about it. I had to use his favorite toy so he let me take his plate. Of course I didn't make him "work for his food" never again, and he is cool so far. It seemed to me that I initiated the fight by messing up with the food. So everything I teach him there is no food in the middle. He learned sit just because I said so, "for free" or just for fun. He is smart so that brain has to be used for good or he'll use anyway to make trouble. I reward him by saying he's cute or smart or things like that, (even if he still doesn't do things perfectly but he tried his best). I've seen with other dogs how the "the line" is a hazard so I would never use it.
@@rhirhi4172 I guess I didn’t pose my question clearly. I meant how do you train them for the “down the road” leaving them…for even 15 minutes to go get your mail.?
Great advice! as first time owner, I did what you are advising by "mistake, as I didn't know exactly what I was doing at that time. But I can say today I have a very good boy, well trained, social, and not reactive to other dogs at all, he keeps calm even when another dog may bark at his face, he looks at me and we just walk away from the drama!! Fortunately, for me I did not like most of the advice the other dog training channel you mentioned in this video, but there are other very good Chanels out there, specially a dog behaviourist channel, he is very very good!!
I have a pretty severely reactive rescue dog. Probably a mix of insecurity and frustration. My main issue is the environment in that I can't leave the house to let him have a pee without potentially encountering a trigger (dogs, cats, bikes), leading to almost daily repetition of this unwanted behaviour. I don't have a garden. Considering I can't just not go outside to let him pee, what would your recommendation be? Because while I follow your training method, the "bank" is constantly less than empty with the regular unavoidable escalations, leading to no progress.
I just used their raw meals to train with, get a silicone pouch and some plastic gloves, it's a bit messy but I fed every raw meal by hand and the pup was super motivated 😊
you can try shaping it into little balls and freeze them (take them out like 30 mins before the trainning sessions so you are not rewarding with popsickles lol) it still will be messy but not as messy
in EU starting 2025 now your not allowed to import puppy's below the age of 16weeks when they can have there Rabis vaccination, previously you were allowed to get an exemption for young pups if the mother was clear and the pups didn't have contact with other animals before import. so yeah, future dogs are fucked if you live in a small country were imports are common. The load on Breeders that sell to "export" owners now massively went up as well especially in time investment
Same here, my 2 biggest mistakes. Letting him greet every single dog, and paying him with high value food…. He’s 8mo now and im getting to see some success with avoiding other dogs, but its hard to get him rid of that old habit…😅
New to the channel and this compilation is the most comprehensive, easy-to-follow-for-anyone, list of tips for any puppy owner I think I've ever seen! Agree whole heartedly with every single thing. Except maybe for the carrying the puppy around haha. (Yes, I know you just gave it as an option for those who are terrified of diseases) But as a breeder I know that letting puppies be outside, digging, walking on grass and in the forest, trains their immune system and is super healthy for them. Puppies born in the winter who spend most of their early days at the breeder and in their new home indoors have higher rates of allergies than puppies born in spring and summer! I wouldn't let a super young puppy meet dogs that I don't know if they are vaccinated - other than that the world's your oyster. :-) Anyway - smashing content, you've got yourself a new subscriber!
Beckman's dog training channel has several good Age Appropriateness vids where he disagrees with early "socialization" of dogs. Their young dog brains aren't ready to be exposed to everything the human world and human owners are going to throw at them out and about. Edit, Something I forgot to point out in the OP is that adolescent dogs, say between 7 to 10 months or a year, can develop weird phobias or fears of things they were previously fine with. Early young puppy exposure to things becomes irrelevant if the older adolescent puppy becomes afraid of it anyway. The guy in this video on the right track. He just doesn't go far enough down the timeline. Yeah, don't cram "exposure" or "socialization" into a short period. However, ALSO don't prioritize that until the dog is closer to a year old and their brain is ready for it. Likewise with the hardcore comments I see about letting the puppy "know who's boss." Sure, you don't want a puppy to walk all over you, but it's a PUPPY, it's going to be and do puppy things. If you don't want a puppy, get an older dog.
Yeah your pup should not be intimidated or fearful of you but you should bring out their confidence whilst maintaining calm behaviour when you need them to be calm and playful when you're in down time at home with family. A confident dog is often happy - clear boundaries but with kindness and love
@@rhirhi4172 Right. It's totally possible to set boundaries and be consistent without "being the boss" which implies bossy behavior. Something I forgot to point out in the OP is that adolescent dogs, say between 7 to 10 months or a year, can develop weird phobias or fears of things they were previously fine with. Early young puppy exposure to things becomes irrelevant if the older adolescent puppy becomes afraid of it anyway. As you point out, it's much better to build the bond with your young dog and have them know you are a place of safety, fun, and everything that's good. Work on basic obedience, owner consistency, and play. Then, when they're a bit older, expose the confident happy dog to whatever you want. I read plenty of horror stories about the person who took their puppy to X and now the dog is scared or reactive into adolescence and adulthood. The guy in this video on the right track. He just doesn't go far enough down the timeline. Yeah, don't cram "exposure" or "socialization" into a short period. However, ALSO don't prioritize that until the dog is closer to a year old and their brain is ready for it. Maybe he'd take his 2 year old and drop them off at elementary school and hope for the best...
It’s a dog that reacts in a way you dont want towards things. Whether that be aggression or wanting to meet and greet everyone or thing. Just like a reactive person. They snap into a mode and have blinders on and can only focus on what they are focused on
This video has to be amongst the worst I have tried to watch. The editing is insane, changing scenes every millisecond, stupid noises, choppy, demented scenes. If this is a reflection of how your mind works then no wonder your dog was reactive. Poor dog! I have given up trying to view this after lasting only a minute or so. You need to calm down.
